Edge 513

What do you think of Vances slip joint detail drawing, but add another pipe vertically to the stack with another slip joint? It seems to address this.

Asking if with the smoother 540 engine[not that harmonically smoother, but a bit smoother]..slip loints are needed in the exhaust. ACS sells a "Berkut style" 3 into one, each side exhaust and there are no slip joints in it. Is it a lemon?

Kent- That is really quite something. Thanks for posting your comprehensive coverage of the Cozy!! =) Maybe I will need something like this and here it is as a great illustration.

If you are selling your TIG? How you gonna make those spiffy engine mounts, or are they all being farmed out?

Any chance 10-15 of these could show up at Osh this year, I bet all of them would sell right away during the main dinner hoe down?

Sheeeesh, [slap to the forehead].....How'd I forget that. =)

Having seen the ERace plans and thumbed through them...I dont see how a guy could build one very easily. Jack Morrison said he was on the phone all the time asking Shirl for information. Nice plans but very abbreviated, like you fill in between the lines with your personal knowledge. The Cozy plans are "the novel". Very comprehensive. Jack mention once that it seemed the ERacer was meant to be the second plane that somebody had built after building a Rutan canard. From looking at the plans I can see that. Maybe talk to an ERacer builder for more information. FWIW. ???

Wow! Massive. I bet incredible thrust. Yea, a few more gray hairs than last year when I saw you.=) Undoubtedly from steering those cats in a totally new thrust technology with a fortune at stake, and riding on it. Would add a few gray hairs to anybodies bonnet. I bet that motor is LOUD!!!

Hadn't heard about the fuel gauges needing replacing or clouding, except for when mogas was used. They are fine when only Avgas is used, si? I think there's benefit to having them installed only if it is on ones checklist to look at them. The mirror and the gooseneck never appealed to me..so I am going to buy the Princeton capacitors I think to go with my future chosen EMS. Just not sure if I will actually ''see'' the fuel sight gauges. I need further convincing to put them in or not. Nice verification of fuel in the tank, I guess. Redundancy is good only if the backup is acurate. If, as you say Lynn, they have given false readings then they are a question mark.

It's the James Bondian rear ejection seat actuator!

I think the difference is that I am addressing the starboard to port shape of the warp with a UNI lengthwise layup specifically. You are probably using BID overall and that would be different. Creating a channel of bundled UNI oriented in the proposed direction AND bonded to the top and bottom skin, I think would do the trick. But who knows? As an aside, I also laid up my canopy inside and outside in CF BID, but I also laid CF UNI across the front from port to starboard during the orig construction, for just this historical reason. As well, I did a front hinging short canopy to the shoulders only. Hey, I hope it all stays in shape!!..we'll see.

I would take a fein tool and cut out a trough in the inside skin, probably in a elongated semi-circle midway between the canopy and front square edge. Dig out the foam in a cee shaped trough down to the fiberglass [that forms the canopy surround surface]. Then lay up some CF UNI lengthwise in that trough as thick as you want, but at least 8 plies, making sure to connect with the ''top'' surface skin. Fill the rest up to flush with flox and reskin the [inside] surface with 2 plies of BID, feathering the plies. Micro and sand this ''repair'' to finish. Note that both the inside and outside skins will be connected rendering a ridgid structure. Maybe overkill, but it wont raise up again, and it will be invisible, being internal. My 2 bobs worth. =)

Beagle ROCKS!! Definitely ask him and he will sniff you out the BEST canard available for your needs/bucks. He has the inside scoop on many unpublished deals.

Yow, Wayne, I dont know of anybody who's built a tub in six weeks. Maybe a LongEze? If a typical guy builds a chapter a month he is going pretty dang fast. 6 months of concerted effart is a typical tub. Good luck with that. Theres guys out there been working to finish the tub and have got 3-5 years and still not finished, so certainly your mileage may vary. If you are a guy who wants to be able to say, at the end, I built even last piece of this airplane...build the tub. If you wanna save 6-8 months, buy one. I think this is a long enuf project as it is, and if you can save some major time buy buying some components, it might be the difference between completing, or not. In this, I have just described myself. Buy a turtleback from Featherlight or Aerocad as well. I would say just run levels for and aft and side to side and if it is within 3/32, buy it. There's Cozy's out there that the canard tilts one ways and the wings the other, and they fly. No need to bring your anal, micrometer. You can true things up all along the way through construction. I think the 2500 hours was published to sell the plans, more like 2800 or 3000 from listening to the ground. Tonto also hear that squaw that is moody and not into airplane thing, squash idea and no make good juju for 48 moons of fiddling in garage shaped teepee. YMMV. Welcome, and we all wish you the best. It's a great dream.

Looks spiffy. =) Maybe just cut it so that it isnt so wide/long and interferes with your leg?

Tom, Give Dennis Oelman a call, He can provide a wing that is stable to 290mph+ using thicker spar caps and etc. All with the better 'glass ride than CF. Using CF entirely for all the wing structures is a bunch of dough for a harse ride. When Chris E did his out of CF, I thought that was what I had to have for the added stress, but then I found out about Oelman's layup schedule...

Its a hand done thing that swoops. Those wanting a shape that is hot wireable, I dont think are going to get it. Marc will have to design that response for you. After having done mine and physically touched the scale dimension of it in relation to our wings, I think the 12 inch radius will be huge. The stabilizers and rudders will end up very high, but maybe could be cut down to something like the old VariEze rudders. I was offering photos simply to show a successful tested structure. I hope somewhere down the line those wanting to do them can be all on a similar tested and working page, so there are no surprises after a lot of work and time. Hey, but then, this is EXPERIMENTAL aviation huh?

You got us there. The outside may be close to a 12inch dia. I actually I think Jacks inside is about 5 and 3/4. I have seen his successful tufting photos and noted his extensive performance testing and am happy to have the derived blend that I do. As you have said before, the 12 inch would be more efficient, but the vertical winglet would be sail-like in elevation at an additional 6 inches over the top of the wing. At least thats my H.O., and I didnt want to rethink new blends. What I did want was a proper internal skeleton and high speed capable wings/winglets.[thats why, in addition my wings were built to the Eracer specs by Dennis Oelman, same as Jacks EracerExtreme was.[except for the above two items] Chris' radius is right at where these winglets are with the difference being that he stood them back off the L.E. and also canted them out 12 degrees. He used Jacks info on his, as well. Scott Carter's flying 540Cozy has the B.W's, and his are smaller radius'. Not sure of what he has to report. I just know Jacks work and am incorporating them into my application. Below is the picture that starts it all. The 8 x8 block of foam that gets sculpted into the blend. You cut about 6 inches off the bottom of the plans hotwired winglet to locate its cord along the outside edge of the block. Also a picture of Jacks tufting. Bede Bedeh, bdedeh..thats all folks.

Marc, This radius is came out a bit larger than Jack's. We talked, and he wanted to add foam sideways to the 8x8 block and it netted out this larger blend. I would say a 10 inch disk would fit in Jack's. He might confirm if desired. A 24 inch disk?..to fit a 12inch radius...would be HUGE...with the stabilizer very high. Wish I had a forward shot for you to superimpose that bigger radius...

This shows a 12 inch diameter disk for scale. Also sanding out the sparcap depth prior to hot wiring off the leading edge. The leading edge matches the wing leading edge. All of this is completely experimental and YMMV. I am only offering these as a partial tease to show a flown design that worked to above 260MPH. Other guys are hemming and hawing about what goes into the blend...I know this works. The Cozy is a subtly different platform, and as best I can, I have pieced together what seems best for the Cozy540 airframe I have produced to work. As far the the winglet, no questionable interior structure, just a proven, simple sparcap. As we talked, a valid concern is the various blended structure/no structure assemblies, and the possible failure and bad name associated with them, based upon some of the structurless assemblies. I hope that doesn't happen. Then there is the CG issues and deep stall consideration. So this is what I am doing along with other aspects in my airplane...and to others, I say good on ya. Peace out.

Just to post a couple of pics of Jack's and my work on my wings over last weekend to show the spar cap assemblies since many are wondering about the blended cores structure. Veru easy to accomplish and is now ready to cut out the rudders. Yes, I am not just "winging" it...but am working with the brightest in our community. Looking at a "system" using oversize wet strake leading edges, longer original canard etc to fulfill my 540 powered Cozy with regards to Cg and performance across the board. Thanks, Marc, Jack, Chris, Lynn for all your help and input.

I thought this guys engine was absolutely fantastic. Good to fair fool burn and it would be very cool.. That said, this last recent post is what Innodyn should have given as the reason for ceased production efforts,,,very creative with a popular shade of conspiracy thrown in. Pardon me while I unwrinkle my eyebrows from off the back of my neck. So did "they" threaten him with death or something, that he "had to sell his patent"? I love conspiracy theories. "THEY" the big corporations, are always somehow at fault somewhere. Or correct me if I am wrong. Williams is one of the smaller jet manuf...nobody else would give a ratsazz about this product. Did Williams threaten this guy with b\ooodyhell? please inform the stockholders. Or maybe it was Lycoming or Continental that said they would off his family? Somehow, this doesnt make sense in the big picture. I could be wrong. After all the lunar landing was on a soundstage...I keep forgettingthat. And to think I was just going to install a "Powered by Lycoming" license plate surround on the BMW later today... Yep, if Lycoming was to blame, I dont wanna be advertising for those bazturds.

Personally. you just scared the shiz outta me. If I see you at a fly-in or anybody that looks vaguely like you avator...i'll be windwalking the other way... And you use of Barney...sealed it.

Tony's LongEze nose was one of the best Longeze nose /slash/ Berkut hybrid noses I have seen, and IMNSHO something along those lines looks great! The plans built LongEze nose is a classic though. Many good looking Cozy's and Longs/Vari's have stock noses. Nat has a stock nose and it looked very good. Marc as well. I think how they get painted or not painted also affects some of the appearance. Some guys seem to have an "eye" to make the shape "right" even though it is stock. Some guys just are not sculptors and create a cobby stock nose. Heck, even a couple of the longer noses look REALLY odd. It's all in the guy who is sculpting that nose. Creating a flowing curved shape longitudinally as well in section means trying to go slow and sand the shape and look at it from the proper vantage point and do this several times. It's a FEEL thing. Its easy to go to fast and then you have to visualize how you are going to add with the micro finish to fill a too sanded area. No problem though, it's just glass work and is easily done. Have fun with it. FWIW, for me blending the nose into my canopy was very important as I wanted to have my acrylic extend as far forward as possible and sculpt around it with the nose top to try and not have a blunt junction between the two in profile. This was tricky because I needed space for the FHC standoff, so my hinges would work. Not a factor for you, I know. I think if I was building a Long, as well as getting a longer nose done I would be asking Todd to blow me a canopy that was about 2-3 inches longer raked/sloped in front and that would REALLY add to the whole snarkiness of the design. I would have my canopy in hand. and notched on the IP to build the nose and nose top too, [as I actually did- and I liked the results], if I was to say something here. YMMV But thats my .02 Cents Below is a pic of Eric Cobbs nose, which isn't to long but adds a nice effect. Notice what would happen with the longer raked/sloped front of the canopy?..It would mirror the nose shape more, and be tasty!!

That really sucks, Drew. I wish you all the best back here in the states.