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    • 3 hours ago, dlworley said:

      I...between my significant other and I we are about 380-390 and it is pushing the max front seat weight limit.... I will be flying solo some, but 90% of my flight time will be with her and/or a 3rd passenger as well.

      I'm obviously partial to canards, and besides being cheaper to build than an RV-10, they're a lot cheaper to operation. But in any case, 380 - 390 is NOT pushing the max front seat weight limit, because there IS no front seat weight limit (ignore the 400 lb. limit Nat stated - it's not based on anything other than him accidentally taking off once with two people in the front seat without taking his ballast out and scaring himself on the takeoff roll). What there _IS_ is a forward CG limit. With 390 lb. in the front seat (call it 400 lb, as you'll probably both be clothed and have other crap with you) in MY plane you'd be at about a CG of 97.8 at landing - about 0.3" aft of the fwd CG limit. If most of your flying would be with 2 folks and 400 lb. in the front, I'd recommend NOT shortening the canard, but leaving the 3" on each side, and moving your CG range forward by 1" - 1.5". With a 200 lb. pilot (again, in MY plane) you'd then need about 40 lb. of ballast in the nose when flying solo to keep the CG forward of the NEW limit of 101", rather than the current limit of 102".

      The biggest issue will be whether you will fit, side to side. And this can only be answered by finding one and sitting in it.

    • Don't plan on moving the seats. I'm 5'-10" and the rudder pedals are in the perfect location.

      I've seen couples who are clearly over 200# each in a cozy 4. So, it is certainly possible.

      I'd suggest a trip to Airventure and take a look at all the options. I did. It confirmed I made the right choice. For me, the Cozy is very comfortable. So comfortable I feel like napping every time I hop in. Of course, I'm thinner than most.

      If I had $250K to spend, I'd buy the RV-10. 

       

    • I have been doing some research on building my own plane for years.  I have bounced back and forth between an RV-10 and Cozy Mark IV.  The RV-10 obviously is much more expensive and the Cozy Mark IV is more affordable to build and I personally like some of the specs better.  Plus it just looks much better than the RV-10 ; ).  Anyways, between my significant other and I we are about 380-390 and it is pushing the max front seat weight limit.  I have tried to find some other threads in reference to this, but most also talk about moving the seats forward or back due to height issues.  We are both around 5'7" and 5'9" so that isn't an issue we have.  Just the weight.  Now with that being said is moving the seats and changing the CG still the answer to my problem as well or do we just need to look at a different aircraft option?  I will be flying solo some, but 90% of my flight time will be with her and/or a 3rd passenger as well.  Any help or recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

    • What are the fliers finding for elevator defection at their max cruise speed?

       

    • On 10/11/2019 at 7:10 AM, tfulwider said:

      Hello Justin!  A good friend of mine lives in Melbourne as well.  Best of luck on your build!

       

       

      Hey Terry, thanks for the welcome. Melbourne is a great area 👍

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      Thanks 

      Richard
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    • There's a long history with ongoing discussion about new and coming (and gone) canard aircraft that have been in the works over the years. This thread makes for some interested reading and lessons to be learned.
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    • Here's how I built a couple of props. The first one was good right out of the box--credit beginner's luck. The second one which I will discuss here took a lot of adjusting;  you might find it interesting.  At the outset, I will admit that it's easier to just buy a prop but what fun is that!   There are probably easier ways to draw prop blades with a 3D CAD program but this is was my method.

      1. The first thing is to decide what length and pitch to build. I kept a list of props I read about that a people were using with a given HP and speed range and put them on a spreadsheet. (pic 1) Comparing pitch is tricky because a prop builder might be quoting the pitch of the flat side or the pitch of the prop's chord line. There can be several degrees difference.  I just assumed that every pitch was quoted at the chord line.

      2. Pitch is quoted in inches at the 75% station. It is the geometric distance a prop with no slippage will advance forward in one rotation.  However, a builder must know the chord pitch angle.  My spreadsheet converted pitch-inches into a pitch angle.  I chose 26.8° chord pitch angle for my 180 hp engine and a 67“ length. From some previous experimenting, I believe length is not too critical. Pitch and tip thinness make a big difference.

      3. I used six nice maple boards, 3/4” thick, so the hub thickness would be 4.5”.  I scraped them as recommended to open the pores and glued them together with Weldwood Plastic Resin glue, rolling glue on both surfaces and flipping the growth rings for each board, and clamped them tight for a couple of days. (pic 2) The Weldwood product was recommended because it has a more generous working time than Resorcinol. 

       
      • 23 replies
    • Your correspondent in Concord N.C. reporting:
      I have always been a little suspicious of the plans Long-EZ engine mounting points. No good reason, really. If you use 4130 angles or thicker 2024 angles in the firewall, it seems to hold up fine in service, so no need to do anything much different.
       
      However, I built a Cozy IV and like the way Nat re-designed the engine mounts in the C-IV so I thought I would go that direction. I got a good deal on an 0-320-H2AD. There is no mount or dynafocal ring made that would work, AFAICT--so I bought a dynafocal cup set from ACS to make my own dynafocal ring. Surprise! I thought the cups would come welded-up but you only get the steel--three pieces for each cup--and have to weld them to make the cups. Not too hard to do, though.
       
      I had to start by machining some aluminum substitutes for the dynafocal doughnuts to postion the cups in the correct position. (BTW, a compressed dynafocal doughnut and cup is 2" thick) After that it was a solid 4-5 days of work for me. Goes like that when you have to re-sharpen about a hundred tungstens, find your misplaced spectacles, etc. Seems like I ought to have more tubes but compare it to a C-IV mount from the Cozygirrrls. Mine looks at least as robust as Nat's design which is holding up well. I might add another cross brace at the bottom.
       
      Here are three pics of my mount with the alum spacers I made, a regulation C-IV mount from the Cozygirrrls, and a mount from the internet that might have been for an O-540. That one is stout.
      • 400 replies


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