Jump to content
  • Welcome to the Canard Zone!

    Check out our new setup and let us know what you think.  Here are a few tips and shortcuts to help you on your way:

    1. Sign up so you can join the discussion and have full access to all content.
    2. Feel free to introduce yourself or start a new topic.  We appreciate the company!
    3. Personalize your account by clicking your username in the upper-right area of the page.
    4. Don't like ads?  Then sign in and you are ad-free!
    5. Visit us using your mobile device or tablet -- the 'Zone is mobile-friendly.

    Thank you for visiting -- we are looking forward to hearing from you!


  • Best Sellers

  • Recent Topics

  • Recent Posts

    • 1 hour ago, Jeff Ray said:

      SAY reason please…i was looking closely at this Long-ez, but i dont know the background on Dave Hanson.  Can you please provide more info……thanks

      I've explained myself on the Dave Hanson issue many times - a search of this forum or the COZY/canard-aviators mailing lists archives (if you are a member and have access) will bring up the multitudinous reasons (and paint colors is the least of them) that any plane that Dave has touched should be viewed with extreme suspicion. Structural and system issues galore. I have names of 8 canardians (some of whom work on canard for a living, and others who've owned or inspected canard Hanson's worked on) who have direct experience with Hanson's work who express the same opinion.

      I would go so far to say that EVEN if all Hanson did was paint the plane, walk away, as the paint jobs are also substantially substandard. There will be another Long-EZ that you will not have to worry about, assuming you get a qualified Pre-Buy examination.

    • 16 minutes ago, Jeff Ray said:

      SAY reason please…i was looking closely at this Long-ez, but i dont know the background on Dave Hanson.  Can you please provide more info……thanks

      I'll pipe in... 

      Burt Rutan was clear about colors and why. He states exactly where trim colors are acceptable. There is also call out of high stress areas. 

      After finally making it all the way through the plans for my airplane and looking at the green airplane and researching glass transition temperatures, I wouldn't even go look at this pretty plane. 

      Marc is an engineer and has more reasons to dislike the work he's seen... 

    • On 1/26/2023 at 3:30 PM, Marc Zeitlin said:

      As always, I will warn against any airplane that Dave Hanson has touched unless ALL structural and systems work can be verified by a competent canard expert (not just some guy that built one or two).

      SAY reason please…i was looking closely at this Long-ez, but i dont know the background on Dave Hanson.  Can you please provide more info……thanks

    • 1979 VARIEZE • $19,995 • ACCEPTING OFFERS • For sale one 1979 Varieze with low hours on in. It will top out at 200 mph. This is being sold as a flying aircraft but you will need to put on the adsb out and you will be up and flying in no time. Asking only $19995.00 or best offer. For more information on the plane call or text me at 208 576 8238 or 303 668 4209. Thanks Larry T • Contact Larry Tombaugh - D&L INDUSTRIES , Owner - located Nampa, ID 80204 United States Telephone: 208 570 8386 • 208 576 8238 • Posted January 31, 2023 • Show all Ads posted by this Advertiser • Recommend This Ad to a Friend • Email Advertiser • Save to Watchlist • Report This Ad • View Larger Images
      thumbnail_image_1610952_1_1601937155.jpeg?945 thumbnail_image_1610952_2_1601937156.jpeg?9397 thumbnail_image_1610952_3_1601937156.jpeg?2289 thumbnail_image_1610952_4_1601937157.jpeg?7580
    • COZY MARK IV 1996 • $65,000 • AVAILABLE FOR IMMEDIATE SALE • Lycombing Superior X-360,760TT,70 SMOH,Cato 3 Blade Prop 72 SOH/522TT,incl.New 2 bladed Hertzler 47 TT Prop,Steam Gauges,Garmin 496+285,Trio AP,Rocky Mnt.Monitor,New Compass+Canopy Screen,Dynon D1,New Canopy Cover,Dual Controls,New ELT 406 MHZ. contact Richard Kenny Owner,Shirley,NY KHWV 631-455-1819 • Contact Richard Kenny , Owner - located Shirley, NY 11967 United States Telephone: 631-455-1819 • 631-281-5818 • Posted January 31, 2023 • Show all Ads posted by this Advertiser • Recommend This Ad to a Friend • Email Advertiser • Save to Watchlist • Report This Ad • View Larger Images

      thumbnail_image_1784410_1_1667753163.jpeg?4447 thumbnail_image_1784410_2_1667936462.jpeg?805 thumbnail_image_1784410_4_1667936834.jpeg?7412 thumbnail_image_1784410_4_1667936833.jpeg?1595



  • Our picks

    • Here's how I built a couple of props. The first one was good right out of the box--credit beginner's luck. The second one which I will discuss here took a lot of adjusting;  you might find it interesting.  At the outset, I will admit that it's easier to just buy a prop but what fun is that!   There are probably easier ways to draw prop blades with a 3D CAD program but this is was my method.

      1. The first thing is to decide what length and pitch to build. I kept a list of props I read about that a people were using with a given HP and speed range and put them on a spreadsheet. (pic 1) Comparing pitch is tricky because a prop builder might be quoting the pitch of the flat side or the pitch of the prop's chord line. There can be several degrees difference.  I just assumed that every pitch was quoted at the chord line.

      2. Pitch is quoted in inches at the 75% station. It is the geometric distance a prop with no slippage will advance forward in one rotation.  However, a builder must know the chord pitch angle.  My spreadsheet converted pitch-inches into a pitch angle.  I chose 26.8° chord pitch angle for my 180 hp engine and a 67“ length. From some previous experimenting, I believe length is not too critical. Pitch and tip thinness make a big difference.

      3. I used six nice maple boards, 3/4” thick, so the hub thickness would be 4.5”.  I scraped them as recommended to open the pores and glued them together with Weldwood Plastic Resin glue, rolling glue on both surfaces and flipping the growth rings for each board, and clamped them tight for a couple of days. (pic 2) The Weldwood product was recommended because it has a more generous working time than Resorcinol. 

      • 28 replies
    • This is an original, unstarted kit from Quickie Aircraft Corporation.

      Included are fuselage shells, a smoke-tinted canopy, metal parts, original plans, and misc hardware. The metal parts are the find here, which have been gently bead blasted and oiled to prevent rust.

      The kit can be used towards building a Q2 or Q200 (same fuselage and most metal parts).

      Will crate and ship to your location at cost.

      Asking $3,250 and proceeds benefit the Canard Zone and the Quickie Builders Association. Also listed on Barnstormers.
      • 13 replies
    • The only "fix" for a wing attach fitting corrosion issue is to completely disassemble and remove the metal parts, ensure that the composite spar is sound and wasn't damaged in the process of the original metal fitting installation, and then fabricate new fittings, protect them with alodining and appropriate coatings and then re-install everything with wet hardware. If you don't know what ALL of that means and how to do it, you're not in any position to do the work.

      As I've stated numerous times before, I believe that it all could be done in about 40 - 80 hours of work, assuming that the underlying composite spar is in good shape.

      As you surmise, there are many things that could bite you - the composite spar could be damaged, you might damage something in the removal of the corroded metal, or you might have trouble getting all the re-fabricated pieces to align and fit together correctly upon re-assembly. Paying someone $4k - $8k to do this work, with no guarantee of success, seems like a risky path to me.

      VE's change hands fairly regularly, and they don't fall out of the sky regularly, but there HAVE been at least 4 known instances, in around 2K Variezes, of corroded wing attach fittings. Who knows how many are corroded and haven't been discovered? Nobody. I most certainly would never buy one that had any visible corrosion anywhere on the wing attach fittings.

      See the picture below for a corroded fitting example - the visible portion, near the hand, is fairly decent looking - you wouldn't necessarily expect that the non-visible portion has severe interlaminar corrosion that has removed over 1/3 of the thickness of the material and damaged the rest.
        • Confused
        • Like
    • Saw this oil cooler door idea (pic 1) on a FB page but I don't like it.  The chap has an ingenious linkage to open and close the slots in flight but the problem is that when full open, half the cooler is blocked by the apparatus and even when open, the slots create drag on the air flow.  In hot weather, you will want the whole cooler working.

      I have a pic of a cooler using louvers by Marc Z. that is a better idea but it might be copyrighted so you will have to imagine it.  :-)

      I did not give this enough thought when building the Cozy.  Eventually I arrived at this slider (pics 2,3) which is satisfactory but  not in-flight adjustable.    With experience, I know about where to set it.  This time of year (Nov), it covers about 2/3rds of the cooler.   In the winter it will block the entire cooler.   Doing it again, I would offset the cooler which might have given the space for a cable-operated slider.
        • Like
    • Below is a sample of a panel I laid out using XPanel software. Jim Evans was asking about instrument panel software on the Yahoo groups forum and you can no longer post attachments so here it is ....

        • Like
      • 2 replies

  • Create New...

Important Information