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Marc Zeitlin

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Marc Zeitlin last won the day on February 4

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About Marc Zeitlin

  • Rank
    Flying Cozy MKIV N83MZ
  • Birthday 08/06/1957

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  • Flying Status
    Flying - 1600 hrs.
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  • Real Name (Public)
    Marc J. Zeitlin
  • Location (Public)
    Tehachapi, CA 93561
  • Occupation
    Principal - Burnside Aerospace
  • Bio

Project/Build Information

  • Plane
    Cozy Mark IV
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    United States
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  1. Funny you should mention this and post the second picture. While doing the CI on your Long-EZ for Ed two days ago, I noted that the #3 exhaust pipe (the one in the picture in the purple square) had a crack about 2/3 - 3/4 the way around the pipe on the second weld down from the bend. Luckily, Mike M. was at the hangar and was able to weld it up for us.
  2. Nope. 0.049" wall, not 0.095" wall. 03-03700. It's in the plans... You may have to file/sand down the OD of the tube a thousandth or two to be able to slide easily into the bearing/bushing. You also want to make sure that you drill the bolt holes with a centering jig, and tighten both bolts to the point of JUST BARELY ovalizing the tubing so that it will have no play in it.
  3. These days, any wingtip lights I install are one of the 4 or 5 different LED NAV/STROBE/POS combination lights. They're all small, lightweight, bright, and expensive. Whichever one the customer picks. There's no structural or aerodynamic issue with any of the available lights. Landing lights are landing lights - they don't care what plane they're mounted on. I haven't done side by side comparisons so I don't know what beam angle is optimal for any plane. I used to have automotive driving lights on my plane, and they were barely adequate. I've just installed these: https://flyleds.com/products/#!/Single-Spotlight/p/108852015/category=0 one standard, one 30 degree beam. Haven't tried them at night yet, so no feedback. If you want to be night legal, you'll need to get a N/S/P light that meets the TSO requirements, even if they're not TSO'd. But getting specs on the non-TSO'd lights is like pulling teeth...
  4. The Triangle FMN10 nylon bearings have been commonly used and they're total crap. They have substantial play in them, sometimes right from the get-go, and they loosen up more over time. I wouldn't put them in a children's toy. They also have an iron version - the FM1510P, but I've never used them or seen them used and can't comment on them. The EFOI-10 bearing from IGUS is extremely high quality, low price, and would be what I would use if I were either replacing existing worn bearings or building new.
  5. Why would you post a COZY question in the Varieze forum? And we just had this exact discussion on the COZY mailing list...
  6. That's an interesting question. So few VE's have the cuffs at this point, and so few have the fences that there's no overlap between the two groups, to my knowledge. There's no reason the fences, which are installed both for aileron effectiveness at low speeds as well as some deep stall resistance margin, shouldn't work with the cuffs as they do with the vortilons. There are two versions of VG's for canard aircraft. The first (not mentioned in that ad for extremely expensive VG's that you can make yourself for $10) are : GU Canard trim change in rain eliminators These are installed on the canard ONLY, and far enough forward that they do NOT affect the maximum Cl that the GU canard can produce - they ONLY eliminate the change in pitch trim with contamination (rain, bugs, whatever else gets on the airfoil). The next version is the ones mentioned, that are installed on a different chord point on the canard, as well as on the main wing. These are installed to lower stall speed, and hence approach and landing speeds. On Long-EZ's, they were developed by Jim Price for his altitude record flights (he gained over 2K ft. of altitude due to the lower speed he could fly at with the VG's). You NEVER put the second version of the VG's on the canard alone, because then a deep stall is likely. And you don't put them on the main wing alone, because it won't accomplish anything. If one installs the second version of the VG's, expect to lose a couple of knots on the top end in exchange for the lower stall speed on the bottom end.
  7. Stephen is correct here - CP-42, pages 5 and 6 have the information on using Vortilons on the leading edge instead of cuffs. They seem to indicate that the Vortilons hold some reasonable advantage over cuffs, but obviously the cuffs work well too. It's interesting that they indicate that there wasn't good data for installing Vortilons on the Long-EZ, but obviously at some later point, they changed their minds.
  8. On the COZY MKIV, this is the case. On the Long-EZ Roncz canard, the original implementation did not have offsets, at least on the planes I've seen... I"m sure there are some folks that have implemented offsets like Nick Ugolini has.
  9. This is exactly what Velocitys do on their elevator torque tube, since the elevator hinge points are well below the bottom of the canard on that plane as well.
  10. Please quote accurately - that was NOT the COZY mailing list, that was the Canard Aviators mailing list. Don't get me started on why there are 57 thousand different places to get canard fixes... Good stories, though.
  11. The way I interpret that (and the way I inspect, although I use 0.060" as the minimum, not 0.080") is that as I move the LE of the aileron up and down, there should never be any time where the TE of the cove and the LE of the aileron come within 0.060" of one another. If they do, I sand the TE of the cove fwd so that there is enough clearance (generally, I slide a popsicle stick between the two to ensure enough clearance). The reason for the clearance is to avoid aileron lockup during high "G" turns - there have been instances where someone pulls 4 - 5 G's and then tries to roll out of it, but because of the bending of the wing (and the NON-bending of the aileron), the aileron sticks. The easy solution is to push and unload to get back down to 1G, but that's not always at top of mind during a 4G turn in which your ailerons have stopped working. So yeah - ensure that there's appropriate clearance at ANY position of the aileron LE.
  12. Marc Zeitlin

    Exhaust wrap.

    Clean the inside surface of the cowl near the exhausts - completely free of grease and oil. Then sand it to scuff a bit. Then use Red High Temperature RTV as an adhesive, put a layer of 1/16" Fiberfrax over the area to be protected. Then cover the whole area with AL tape: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/3mproptape.php Then seal the edges of the tape with a bead of Red RTV. For what reason? What do you propose changing it in to?
  13. I love those things - I get 350 - 375 landings out of a set - way more than the new tires, that cost more. They are not always available, though...

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