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  1. Yesterday
  2. Another builder on the Facebook forum noticed a huge error on my build: I missed CP11 note to add 2 plies UNI around the end of the CS spar prior to installing the fuel tanks. I have gone thru all the CP's, years ago, and marked up my plans accordingly. Plain and simple, that was a miss on my part, I did not mark up that CP 11 change. Makes me wonder what ELSE I missed. [I'll be spending this winter going thru all CPs again.] I found my pictures from the day I put the CS spar and fuel tank on, and sure enough, I did not do that layup (55" UNI wrapped twice around). See attached picture. Looks like I'll be cutting into my fuel tanks and cowl flange to install that layup, when I remove my wing attach fittings. Upon further inspection, I found other screws with rust on them on a lower-side wing fitting and found one small 'indentation' on a wing fitting. Picture attached. Though this plane hasn't flown yet, I've decided to remove all fittings, both wing and CS spar, and inspect/replace/treat as needed. Too many unknowns/what-if's.
  3. Last week
  4. @Lyn - I actually bought this unit first - now I buy the refill and just reuse the applicator here. The long tip allows good control and a LITTLE is all you really need. I touch to the contact point - let it set for 5-15 min... then wipe off with q-tip. then with the other end of the qtip put one drop of fresh de-oxit and put a super light coating on per directions to prevent further corosion. they do have special versions for gold connectors and such - but this works for all (the specialty ones actually have particulate matter to encourage connection - I am not fond of that idea if I have tiny pins I wonder if there could be electrical bridging if applied to liberally).
  5. Does this bottle type application work better than the others they have? Thanks for the posting/info.
  6. That sucks! My can is running low and I was going to order more EZ-87 soon.
  7. We flew the Longeze for 45 hours, then started improving it; the biggest improvement would be wheel pants but I don't like the only plans that I have been able to find; I think the metal sheet for parts is much too heavy and I am not good at cutting heavy steel. But I do want the attachment to be strong enough. I already have the actual round covers for the wheels and the attachment part to hold it to the wheel axle; I just need parts to hold the pants to the gear legs. Does anyone sell parts ? Please help.
  8. The EZ-Poxy 87 was going to be used for the fuel tank due to the fuel resistance, the EZ-83 is also approved but I'm sure there are others that work, just have to scour the CP's and CSA newsletters when I finally get to the strakes. It was sure nice to use the slower 87 though!
  9. grounding and connector issues seem to be my biggest bane on airplanes (esp when they have alum and copper connectors (like buss bar)). I found a great product that I use quite religiously called "de-oxit" https://www.amazon.com/CAIG-LABORATORIES-D100L-25C-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B0000YH6F8/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=deoxit&qid=1634164261&sr=8-6. they have specialty formulas for various type connectors - but the above seems to be very adequate for not only cleaning assitance - but also corrosion protection (oxidation)... (unfortunately this stuff is VERY pricy) Congrats on a clean bill of health!! Hope you get the squalks worked out! great weather to fly in the Carolinas!!! I want to go up with you again (after you get this all worked out of course 😉 ).
  10. My Cozy has not flown in a year while I fiddled with getting a Special Issuance medical. The medical approval finally came through--five months after submitting the paperwork. It expires in 5 months but I think I will get back on Basic Med which will be good for two years. Anyway .. . . The airplane had a worrying miss on one of the LIghtspeed Plasmas. Low takeoff RPM and an alarming miss running on that one Plasma. I thought maybe it was fouled plugs. Nope, they are almost new. Plug wires are pretty new. I thought maybe the screw-on sparkplug caps were loose. Nope. One time I had a Lightspeed box that suffered a broken connection to an internal chip. It seemed to be a manufacturing defect but Lightspeed did not publicize it. Bad on them. I doubt thst is the probem here. Ordinarily, the boxes are pretty stout. One time I had corrosion in a coil tower connection to the plug wires that caused an engine miss. I see that Klaus says a disconnected sparkplug is very bad for the coils and a corroded connection could mimic that. I suspect my problem is going to turn out to be a bad coil. News at 11. The nice thing about the Lightspeed is that they are pretty easy to troubleshoot.
  11. I am not an engine expert but it seems to me that these are big old heavy slow-turning (relatively) engines that would not profit much by porting and balancing. People do polish the ports and balancing cannot hurt but I doubt it makes much difference. As they say: "nothing beats cubic inches". Electronic ignition will give you a few HP. It seems that very careful drag reduction is where the money is. Removing the lower winglets would be pretty easy. AFAICT, it does reduce drag a little bit but the stall characteristics are a not as nice. I removed some upper winglets once. The lower winglet would be a piece of cake. This page: https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/18661-kents-long-ez-project/page/3/ What I question is if the EZ is the best design for winning races? I don't know.
  12. I stumbled upon this while browsing Facebook Marketplace (like Craigslist) today. Here's a link. Velocity SE FG $35,000
  13. Thanks for that... we won't be seeing much E-Z Poxy being used much in that case. Another thing to keep in mind is that Aircraft Spruce (and I assume many others) often need to add a "hazmat" charge. For example, note this for the 287 Slow hardener from ACS (which does not apply to the 335 system's slow hardener: Important Shipping Information- H287S Hardener can be shipped UPS ground only. A $25 hazardous fee, and a $45 box fee applies (per quart). Can also be shipped truck collect. Because of that I am moving to Pro-Set. I also just found that the slow hardener for the Pro-Set 125/229 system is more tolerant to slight mixing variations than their fast hardener. I suspect that's true for other epoxy systems as well, but is another reason to like slow hardeners. However, a case for slow hardeners is that I have seen the Tg temperatures being better with slow hardeners than fast for room temperature cures (maybe 10 degrees F). As long as your plane is painted white you'll be fine in all cases.
  14. Okay, FYI I just got off the phone with Endurance technologies who makes EZ-poxy, they have permanently discontinued EZ-87 hardener and only make EZ-83 now, hope that helps. Thanks Jon for the information.
  15. It looks like a hard to find epoxy system. Here's the manufacturer site if you want to track an answer down from there: https://www.epoxi.com/other-brands I dislike working with fast hardeners as well. I would seek MGS 287 or Pro-Set as I regard them as the best available (IMO, FWIW). Expensive, but when you look at how much you'll be spending overall epoxy is not a big cost. Beyond that someone may speak up about Aeropoxy. I have some of that as well, just because, but don't use it.
  16. Oops, lost in translation… you understood me. Thanx for those tips! As for the engine, I definitely plan to open it and do some crankshaft and piston/rod balancing before flying it. I see most newly build Long EZ do not feature the lower winglet. Has anyone tried removing them from a flying airplane?
  17. @Kent Ashton and @jridge allow me to open up the Downloads section for user-provided content. That's the best place for files like these as opposed to sprinkled in throughout various topics and threads. Once I do that you should be able to upload here just fine Jeff.
  18. I was going to make an epoxy order from Spruce and they no longer carry the 87 hardener, when I called they said they no longer manufacture it. Does anyone know where I could get some 87? If not, what are the alternatives? I've been working with 87 and would rather not use 83 with half the setting time.
  19. I imagine there are aircraft salvage yards in Europe. Here in the states, Wentworth handles a lot of salvage engines. Make sure you know the model numbers and know what you're buying. You will need a new prop, too. As for mods, a carbed O-320 can be converted to fuel injection pretty easily. I just saw a discussion of this on the VansAirForce site. Streamling the struts is a good mod. Also use smaller wheels and pants. A smaller canopy. Seal the cockpit well so air is not leaking in and out except where you want it. See what Gary Hertzler did to reduce the builk of his cowl https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/45834-varieze-plans/?do=findComment&comment=79848 Very good, tight cooling will help Ah, you want a gain in drag! Forget what I said. 🙂
  20. If you want to email them to me, I can probably post them. kjashton AT vnet dot net
  21. Hello all, I intend to enter sport class pylon racing next year with my long EZ F-PZPN. She is totally by the plans with a O-235 engine. With light speed dual ignition, spinner and wheel pants, hertzler prop on a long extension, she gives me almost 180 kts IAS at SL with full throttle. At that speed, the engine runs right at redline (2800 rpm). However, given the competition (vans, lancairs,…) , I feel I will have to do some more preparation if I want to stay in the race. The first idea that springs to mind is a bigger engine, of course. A O-320 would be the immediate choice, as It fits on the existing mount. I need to find one of these. beside from that, any idea from people who have been here before, even small mods that will give a small gain in drag? Of course, going faster would need to expand VNE, and thus recalcule VD and test fly the aircraft… Is there someone who could provide the profiles used for the wing and canard (or even best, the Cl/Cd curves)? thanks for your input, and all the best…
  22. jridge

    VariEze Plans

    Jon - What's your preference? These are big files and I have slow internet here, so I only want to upload them once. Jeff
  23. Thanks Marc, disassembly was implied with my "...then reinstall" mention. If I pulled the corroded part in your pic just above, at that point I'd just use it as a template to make a brand new part.
  24. The problem, as has been discussed many times previously in this and other fora, is that the worst corrosion is always in places that cannot be seen except by a full disassembly of the wing attach fittings from the spars in both the wing and the main spar. I'm sure I've posted this picture before: but as can easily be seen, one might think that things are reasonably OK when looking at the areas that contain the wing attach hardware (near the hand), but fairly obviously, this is not a safe plane to fly given the extreme corrosion and flaking of the part of the fitting buried in the composite. So "cleaning up" visible portions of the fittings is putting lipstick on a pig. If you do not take the whole fitting apart (probably 10 - 30 hours of work for all four areas - main spar and wings), you'll only be guessing at whether the inside of the fittings looks like this. Hence the disclaimer I put on all VE condition inspection reports that I write: "Both Wing Attach Fittings (ALL VARIEZES) - Due to the inherent design from RAF, it is not possible to check for internal corrosion of wing attach fittings. I recommend removing wings at alternate CI's and checking externally for corrosion, with the understanding that without ~40 - 100 hours of disassembly/reassembly, a full inspection of the fittings and full confidence in the condition of the fittings is not possible. Plan on wing removal for more extensive examination at the XXXX CI. Obey RAF's +2.5G / -1.5G limits"
  25. There's a ton of information in that AC. I just learned of "Filiform corrosion", which may be on the flat plates. The aluminum around the screws appears corroded and needs special attention (is the white stuff around the screws oxidized aluminum?). Until they're removed you won't know the extent of the problem. The holes should be cleaned up as well regardless. Where the parts appear to be very salvageable (as is the case from the pics IMHO), I would clean and sand down to 400 grit, apply a conversion coating, then reinstall. I have no idea how hard that is to do for VariEze wing fittings.
  26. Here is a big Advisory Circular on Intergranular corrosion https://www.faa.gov/documentlibrary/media/advisory_circular/ac_43-4a_.pdf
  27. I suggest starting a new topic in the Models --> Varieze section entitled "Varieze Plans" https://www.canardzone.com/forums/forum/305-varieze/ I think you can drag and drop the files into the bottom of the post. Maybe Jon would like to create an "Open Varieze" model to which they can be moved.
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