Kent Ashton

Breaking news! He lowered his price to $117,000 in today's ad. Here is one closer to the ballpark. Appears to be N504WB which Cox bought earlier in this thread https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/21972-sales-ive-seen/?do=findComment&comment=49101 1984 LONG-EZ • $24,900 • ACCEPTING OFFERS • 0-235-L2C Clean light airplane. Fresh annual, xponder check. New G5, aera 660, GDL39 3D 1200TTAF&E • Contact Chris Cox - 21 VICTOR AIRCRAFT MAINTENANCE, INC., Owner - located Hampton, GA USA • Telephone: 404-697-3069 • Posted November 12, 2018 https://flightaware.com/resources/registration/N504WB

This EZ on Barnstormers today. Nice enough but $117K for an O-235 with 712 hours!? He must use a bag of Krugerrands for ballast. 1985 build. RUTAN LONG EZ • $117,800 • FLY RIGHT NOW • N787EZ, Lycoming 0-235 with dual electronic ignition PMags, 1035TT airframe, 712SMOH engine. 150kts cruise, 6gph. All Garmin IFR. ADS-B 2020 compliant. Featured in CSA Newsletter, Oshkosh, and Sun ‘N Fun. All maintenance up-to-date. All logs, and original build plans. Ready-to-fly x/c, no building experience required. A&P/IA annual condition inspection valid through Feb 2019. Pre-buy inspections welcome. Hangared at KMBT. Transition training available. FLY IT HOME TODAY! Rutan Long EZ #1217 aircraft. Call or e-mail any questions. • Contact David Schultz, Owner - located Murfreesboro, TN USA • Telephone: -615-642-6258- • Posted November 11, 2018

I've have not use Proseal in that way but used it to build the BD-5 and seal RV fuel tanks. It might work around a canopy edge but it's really sticky stuff and a bit of a mess to apply. I wouldn't call it "easy to tool" because it sticks to everything. It can be sanded but it's like sanding hard rubber. Maybe the Lancair guy has had good results around canopies but I think you can also get a good finish with micro.

I hope I live that long! 🙂 The only thing I would add is that Gary Hunter says all epoxies are improved by a post cure--even the usual ones that we don't generally postcure--so maybe you don't really need a postcure for the brand you're using. Slide 31+ here http://www.cozybuilders.org/Oshkosh_Presentations/2006_EpoxyDoDonts.pdf I had a warped winglet once and thought maybe I could put it out in the sun in a black plastic bag with some weights and get it straight. It wouldn't budge. It leads me to believe that once things cure at room temperature, they are fairly stout.

Well look, Cameron, what you're doing is interesting and do what makes you happy--I do-- but I would like to convince you you're adding hours to the build for no "good" reason. The stresses on those parts are will within non-postcure tolerances. For one thing, there is no way to know how strong the structure was as-designed. Maybe it was already strong enough to take loads that are 150% of design. That seems to be the case with canards that got tested to failure. Let's say you'll add another 2-5% strength to a structure that's already 50% stronger than needed. All you've done is wasted your time Your kids will grow up fast. My Son was an 8th grader when I started building. By the time I was flying he was in college and the flying I anticipated with him never happened. I see that you joined Canard Aviation in June 2012 it was in June 2014 that a wet-behind-the-ears-Voidhawk first asked about materials in your hemisphere http://forum.canardaviation.com/showpost.php?p=74868&postcount=1 so it has been 6.5 years since you became interested in building. Don't get mad at me. I am only interested in seeing people finish their projects and get flying. 🙂 There are too many builders sitting on fantastic unfinished projects or they put 250 hours on them and age-out of flying. Good luck, my friend.

Nice writeup. I only recall seeing one Quickie here on the east coast with some kind of pull-starter engine. Very interesting to see him get running.

Further on the airplane above: I'm a little surprised that his oil cooling is OK since the flow has to make a 80 deg turn against the baffle and get compressed to go out the slot which looks to be only 1/3rd the area of the cooler. He seems to have a dedicated intake duct for the cooler. These things are interesting to speculate on. If he made the cooler exit more efficient, it would likely make the cowl bigger but maybe the drag from a larger cowl would be offset by less cooling air being used for the cooler.

Saw this question below on a FB page. None of the answers suggest comparing the pressure differential above and blow the cylinders with a relatively simple water manometer setup. https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/18661-kents-long-ez-project/?do=findComment&comment=61602 I would guess his cowl exhaust area is too small. It is certainly smaller than you see on most airplanes. He has a big opening around the prop but there looks to be a flywheel blocking that path. I don't recall the rule-of-thumb exactly but I think it says the exit area should be two or three times the inlet area. Also the top of the cowl looks tight to the tops of the cylinders. Those restrictions might be creating backpressure that restricts flow. In my experience above, I moved the cowl exhaust opening to a better place but did not change the intake size. That improved cooling considerably--it just allowed the air to get out.

Another project by the productive David Hanson (from Barnstormers) VARI EZ PROJECT ALL MODS DONE • $20,000 • FOR SALE TO GOOD HOME • 0235 Vari ez. 340 hrs new cylinders. Mods include wheel pants , gear leg fairings, long nose , extended front hatch, strake extensions for more cockpit room, hidden oil door, custom cowls, adjustable brakes in the nose. Elec nose lift and speed brake. new glass panel Ifly 740, AVMAP, TRIO auto pilot. plane needs final sand and electrical and avionics connections. wireing is in the plane. I will finish the plane, choose your paint and interior colors. • Contact David J. Hanson located Warren , OH USA • Telephone: 724-614-9046 • Posted November 4, 2018

I partial to the Lycoming. I don’t want to have any doubt about the reliability of my engine and an airplane engine will usually warn you before it lets you down As you say, The history of canards is that rotary installations are often removed for a Lycoming after a while and/or they are more difficult to sell.

Ebay today, item 163349914839 in Texas. There is quite a bit of stuff here so you could sell some of it and defray the cost. Start adding up the cost of 3 canopies! , two sets of cowls, Performance prop, 3 canards!, engine mount, wheels, struts, etc. Some sort of retractable main gear too, it appears. There is is probably $15-18K of stuff here not counting labor. The seller's pics do not look very appetizing but visualize it all in new primer. I would suggest asking him about the history of these projects and get some closeup pics of the inside cockpit and wings. From the pics of the interior of the fuselage it looks like someone took over a fairly well-built project, did some half-assed work in the cockpit piecing in armrests and seat from another airplane, and gave up. That can all be rebuilt. The wings look ugly but they are just dirty, I would guess.

I talked about my homemade smoker back on page 5 which was not very successful. Since then I've upgraded to an Akorn Char-griller https://www.chargriller.com/collections/kamado-grills a cheap version of a Big Green Egg kamado cooker. The Chargriller is steel--about $290 from Walmart, Lowes, etc versus $750-$1000 for the true ceramic smokers. It's one of the best things I every bought! I just mound up some charcoal briquets and apple wood, give it about 20 minutes to come up to temperature and it will cook for 3-5 hours+ with very little tending. Yesterday I added a Pitmaster IQ110 found on Craiglist. https://pitmasteriq.com It is a little temp-controlled fan that keeps the cook temperature perfect. Mostly I cook St Louis ribs (3 hrs) or brisket or the occasional chicken or spatchcocked turkey. They have all come out great. Must try a pizza sometime. There are plenty of Youtubes of folks cooking delicious these on these kamado grills. Check them out.

That's nice. I hope you get it finished before they leave for college. 🙂

Today on Barnstormers: First one reduced from $40K with some kind of retracts and an O-360. I could not find a registration--it's not Nate Mullins' EZ. Second one (N315GE) snapped the strut; I wonder how that happened? 2004 vintage, deregistered. http://www.aviationdb.com/Aviation/Aircraft/3/N315GE.shtm Maybe he broke down in Austin and does want to mess with it anymore. Says "make offer". 1983 LONG-EZ RG • $35,000 • FOR SALE • TTAF: 1585., Lycoming O-360 TSMOH: 1456.4, CATO propeller TT: 0 Selling as a project that is ready to be trailered, it only lacks the wiring for a new panel seen in the pictures. The airplane has several modification including retractable gear, nose extension, baggage pods, toe brakes, and new paint earlier this year. The new panel has already been cut out and includes Garmin GDU 375, Garmin GDU 370 AM, SL60, KT76C, and Trutrak GX Pilot. I have gotten to busy to finish the wiring on this airplane and this is the only reason I'm selling. Text or call for log books, information, and pictures • Contact Deven Mullins, Owner - located Locust Grove, GA USA • Telephone: 7707154378 • Posted November 1, 2018 O-320 LONG EZ PROJECT 0SMOH • $20,000 • PROJECT FOR SALE • 2004 Long EZ Project. Airplane is ready to go, except for damaged right main landing gear. Engine is a newly rebuilt O-320. Bottom end was rebuilt, cylinders reconditioned by A&P. Runs beautifullly. KX-155, KNS-80, KT-76A, G/S Receiver, TruTrak autopilot, full IFR. Dual electronic ignition, Roncz canard. Wilhelmson nose gear and speed brake. 3 Blade Catto prop. Wheel Pants. Airplane includes kit for baggage pods. All logs available. Burrall Sanders at Freeflight has a reasonable fix for the gear leg, or the entire main gear can be rebuilt. Airplane is at KAUS. $20000 OBO. MAKE ME AN OFFER • Contact Rick Redfern, Owner - located Cordova, TN USA • Telephone: 5129499356 • Posted November 1, 2018

You are more likely to get a response with a PM (Private Message) from this website. It will go to his email address. Click on the seller's name to send one.