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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/11/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Made the trip back out to CA this past weekend to help my son move back from his Scale Composites internship. Was lucky to get to see Marc Zeitlin again on Friday and take a closer look at his Cozy. Awesome aircraft, it makes my VariEze look tiny. Another bonus was getting to meet Mike Melvill while at Marc's hangar. We chatted for quite some time about many of his first flights in Rutan-based aircraft. Amazing stories, I could have listened for hours. I have attached a quick video of Marc departing in his Cozy. marc_zeitlin.mp4
  2. 2 points
    I figured that since you knew that COZY's were using it, and mentioned that, that the solution was clear. I didn't think it was necessary to point out that if 800 COZY's had been built with something, it was probably OK to use.
  3. 2 points
    See CP 26 page 3 for confidence in the alternate material and save hassle and money.
  4. 2 points
    Smaller and infinitely more comfortable. I sit in a C-172 and after 2 hours, I'm miserable and my butt hurts. After 5 hours in a COZY MKIV, I'm fine.
  5. 2 points
    I find the cozy seating position quite comfortable and superior to a 172. That said, in 5-10 and 150#.
  6. 2 points
    This post on FB reminded me of my Miniature Pincher named Charlie. One day while my wife was a work, I decided to take Charlie to a fly-in not far away. I put him in the right seat and off we went. After leveling off, Charlie came over and stood on my chest. "How cute", I thought. "He is looking around." Then he threw up all over me. Sorry Charlie. Good thing he was a small dog. Unfortunately my wife has the same sort of stomach. After returning from a short flight in bumpy conditions, she got out and sprawled out on the floor of the hangar for 30 minutes to recover.
  7. 2 points
    After much eye crossing, here is the basic airframe cost sheet. A couple of items are missing still, so figure probably a couple hundred more as it is some foam. The running grand total is in the upper right. Keep in mind, this has no prefab parts like canopy, cowling, engine mount, or gear legs yet. If you are thinking of using Eureka for precut cores, add another $1500. Also, please do not take these prices or part numbers as gospel. Make sure you double check. But it gives a rough estimate as what you are into aside from prefab. Also shipping could probably add at least another thousand. I know the canopy is about another $700, No idea on the cowl. Main gear legs are about $600, and so on. I'll keep updating as I get the info. Open EZ Build - Sheet1.pdf Open EZ Build.xlsx
  8. 2 points
    There are a few COZY's, Berkuts and other canards flying with CS props. I'd guess less than 1% of the total. Those that have them generally say that they help with takeoff/climb, particularly with O-540 powered aircraft, but either hurt or do nothing on the top end. I always recommend NOT using CS props, due to the cost, weight, maintenance issues, etc. unless you have a VERY particular set of circumstances that requires it. Which fewer than 1% of folks do. Nat invented weight limits to protect people from being stupid(er than they already are). There is no 400 lb. front seat weight limit, or 300 lb. rear seat weight limit that's determined by structural limitations. If the people can fit (and THAT'S the limiting factor almost all the time) AND you're within the MGW and CG limits, you're good to go. MGW for any E-AB aircraft is whatever the manufacturer (you) say it is. In Phase I, you're required to test to whatever limit you set. If you set your limit higher than the designer specified, you better understand what limitations that puts on takeoff performance, "G" loading, and landing vertical velocities (amongst many other things). On Long-EZ's, people extend the nose a bit to fit a battery for CG reasons when they install an O-320 instead of an O-235. They extend the nose a lot when they don't have a clue what they're doing and think that they're making the airplane look better. In a COZY MKIV, there's exactly zero reason to extend the nose, although a few folks have done it (again, for aesthetics). Eh. Closer to $30K, at this point, if not more, given shipping costs. Maybe if you're a great scrounge and buy in bulk you could do it for under $30K. Plan on $30K - $40K by the time you get through with it, and if you do better, congratulate yourself.
  9. 2 points
    Officially joining the ranks with N90LT! Hopefully the desert was kind to the engine as it sat and sat after rebuild, years ago. Pretty happy to finally get my hands on one that has the bits I wanted. More newbie questions inbound! 😁
  10. 1 point
    Thanks for the heads up! I bought one as soon as I found out about it, got it about a month ago.
  11. 1 point
    Quickie in Oregon https://corvallis.craigslist.org/avo/d/lebanon-q2-rutan-quickie-1988/7164505340.html
  12. 1 point
    Saw this nice baffle job on FB by Henry Herbert who posts as Northwest Cozy. https://www.facebook.com/NorthwestCozy Note the fences on the upper cowl (pic 3). Lots of work to make those. I am more inclined to leave top forward baffles floppy. They will still make a good seal. I have used fences in the top of my cowl but only to backup the top side baffles which did not want to flop outboard . My two fences worked but if I am not careful to mount the top cowl properly, the fence can sit on the silicone baffle and give me noticeably-worse cooling. The only thing I would question on Henry's job is that I don't see a lot of sealant in the cracks. Even very nice baffles usually have gaps and crack that need to be sealed. Aluminum-colored RTV from the home stores is my favorite. He complains that these nice baffles did not help his CHTs very much. I would bet his cowl exit opening is too restricted and he just isn't getting the exit flow he needs. Said this before: I think the prop hub restricts flow out of the cowl and the air comes out at the sides of the opening. That might be why he has cooling complaints. The only way to prove it is to do some before-and-after testing with piccolo tubes and a manometer. On my EZ project with downdraft cooling I planned to have all the air exit around the prop hub and through large exhaust-pipe openings. I could barely get to pattern altitude before it overheated. 😞 Installing some big exits fixed it. You can see the mods here. https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/18661-kents-long-ez-project/?do=findComment&comment=57587 I think an exit must be larger than an intake to get good flow. The air is heated and expanded through the cylinders. More volume must come out than went in. That's my poli-sci. major theory anyway. 🙂 Personally, I wouldn't bother with fireseal covering on fuel injection lines. If there is a fuel leak, what's the ignition source? The engine is not hot enough. I suspect the fuel would evaporate as fast as it leaked out.
  13. 1 point
    I can only blame my case of "1st time builder overthinkitous". Lol Last-A-foam it shall be. And many thanks too.
  14. 1 point
    For those that might be interested in building the Open EZ, I am putting a spreadsheet together with modern day costs, suppliers, and part numbers. I am about 70% done. This would be the average build cost and would exclude engines, props, and avionics due to the fact that those will vary greatly from builder to builder. I have found that a lot of the info online is way out of date, or ballpark averages at best. I should have it done by the end of the weekend and will post here. From what I am finding so far, is it adds up fast, and the recommendations from those that have gone before, and offer the advice of picking up a project that is for sale on the cheaper side, should not be ignored. Not to discourage a new build by any means. It just might surprise you to see the deal you are getting from what raw materials alone cost. Not to mention the labor saved. Anyway, be sure to check back here for the sheet.
  15. 1 point
    Sorry Marc. I'm bored. Lol. I mentioned Last-A-Foam 10 replies ago. Where the heck were you then?! Lol
  16. 1 point
    You guys are wasting an awful lot of time and effort on this. Just use P/N 01-14400 Last-A-Foam from ACS for the bulkheads in question (IP and a couple others) and call it a day. Cheaper and available without any special ordering.
  17. 1 point
    I've had my practice kit for a while and just now getting to the wing. I was mixing single squirts and then dumping the majority out to work it. Took a while to cure completely, but was setting up to a gel consistency within 5-10 minutes. Jon, thanks for the info on the Permagrit. Definitely going to have to pick them up!
  18. 1 point
    I laid up the underside of the wing last night to cure overnight. First off, the West 105 resin with the 206 hardener that ships with the practice kit cures really quickly. My slurry was tacky before I even finished covering the foam. The epoxy thickened quickly which made wetting out the glass a little more difficult than I had hoped. I was in a 75 degree room and used a hair dryer at various points to help it flow. The layups aren't as nice as I would like and I ended up with a few trapped bubbles of epoxy under the final layer. Oh well, that's why it's practice! Today I pulled out the Fein saw with the rotary blade and trimmed the edges. Worked really well!! I was able to lay the flat part of the blade on the edge of foam and get a very close cut. The leading edge trim was a bit tougher and I ended up having to sand it a fair amount. All in all, very pleased with how it went! I noticed in Ary Glantz's videos that he would sometimes use a router with a flush trim bit on the edges. Any advantages or disadvantages with that method? Thanks for all of the advice!!
  19. 1 point
    I'll be driving in.
  20. 1 point
    Look under members gallery. I started downloading them there, but was halted 1/3 the way through do to the size. There is enough reading to get you started. Hope Jon will delete them when the correct file is working.
  21. 1 point
    I can't seem to download them Jon.
  22. 1 point
    West cannot be used except for finishing. It simply cures too fast. I can feel the mixing cup warming as I'm stirring. Something else to consider is the viscosity. A low viscosity epoxy is much, much preferable to a higher one. This is one of the reasons people use mgs.
  23. 1 point
    It doesn't get dusty until Chapter 25 when you sand off lots of micro. Like has been said... finishing is dusty, but it stays in one general area and you can use dust control then at the end of the build. Must you get a hangar this early in the build? You can get much of the plane built in any small insulated space (shed, basement, spare bedroom.... ).
  24. 1 point
    Sorry, for bad info. The 209 is approved
  25. 1 point
    Cleaning out some things and thought I would post a pic of first-efforts at making sparkplug thermocouples. I have previously talked about making bayonet thermocouples for Lycomings. https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/31152-homemade-cht-bayonet-sensor/ Those things are outrageously expensive--$100 or more--but can be made for a few bucks in parts with a bit of practice with silver solder. https://www.jpinstruments.com/shop/cht-bayonet-probe/ https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/gem6.php?
  26. 1 point
    Probably posted before, but worth a watch if you have not seen it yet!
  27. 1 point
    Great video! I watched it the other day from a #EAATogether post from twitter. Nice demonstration of the LongEZ capabilities. Thx for sharing it!
  28. 1 point
    Just got done doing an extended nose using my CNC router to cut all the internal structure using tab and slot construction. It is very rewarding having everything square and true.
  29. 1 point
    Get a U haul Auto transport, and load the nose up. I just move my cozy From Tennessee to Michigan. $150 + Gas for my van. I can send you pictures by Emaill. laser3Lc@yahoo.com
  30. 1 point
    What I meant by cnc was the main support structure being tab and slot. I did not take any photos of thd parts off the cnc and then glassed on both sides so I included the pics in the above post. The narrow pieces are for the adjustable rudder pedals with provisions for t nuts. The other pic is a rudder pedal for adjustable ratio with fwd. mounted master cylinders. Now working on the latch for the nose lid using a keychain quick release. Also tig welded and machined a new NG6 with tapered roller bearings. Installing a Wright Nose Lift. Will post some more interesting photos in the near future.
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
    This complaint (pic 1) grabbed from FB. Experience--mine and others-- has demonstrated that a transponder antenna in the nose is problematical. Pic 2 is an EZ tilted to about a +2º deck angle as one might see in cruise. If you are climbing away from a radar station, the deck angle might be 3-4º nose high. Say you are 20 NM from the radar station at 5,000' AGL. The look angle from the aircraft to the radar is only 2.5º low. If you're cruising with a +2º deck angle, large bags of water (you) and the engine are between the antenna and the radar. Worse when climbing. A commenter to the FB post said he put the antenna in the strake but the same effect can occur if the bodies get between the antenna and the radar. Also, there is relatively high loss in a long transponder coax so for my money, the best place is on the belly below the seat. A transponder reply burst is only miliseconds--too short to heat up any important parts of your body.
  33. 1 point
    Buy hanger. Live in hanger. work on plane and throw plane building parties.
  34. 1 point
    Hey Howard, welcome to the Canardzone. GlaStars look really nice, though I haven't had the pleasure of flying one myself yet. Certainly a different category to the canards! Had planned on lots of canard exposure myself at Osh and Rough River this year, but due to the Current Circumstances I will miss both. But there are a lot of friendly canard guys around willing to share!
  35. 1 point
    Hello everyone! Just wanted to introduce myself. My name is Howard Plevyak and I live in Cincinnati, OH. I'm flying out of KHAO (Butler Hamilton Airport "Hogan Field", Cincinnati, OH). My current aircraft is a GlaStar that I built from a kit. It's an incredible utilitarian design that I love flying! It has wonderful flying qualities. I'm looking at building the Long-EZ (Open-EZ) next...as my build itch is back! I've read the PoH, and build plans and it looks like a doable project. Especially like the pay for materials as you go...with a plans build. I'm working thru the newsletters now. I plan to attend the Canard Fly-In (hoping it's still a go) to see how I fit inside the Long-EZ. Hoping a few Long-EZ flyers there will let me sit in theirs, and maybe a flight demo! My background is as an Aero Engineer (Aeronca Aerospace, then USAF 10 years, F-16 Flight test 5 years, F-22 fighter development 5 years). I'm now doing software development...jobs are more stable than Aerospace industry. Hoping to learn a ton from this forum as I research my decision to pull the trigger on building a Long-EZ and make some new friends! Sincerely, Howard
  36. 1 point
    I'd call that an early win!
  37. 1 point
    As a former machinist these wing attachments would not be easy to fabricate. The setup would be time consuming and by the time all is said and done I'm guessing you would have $600. - $800. depending on the shop rate and material cost. I'm not saying it can't be done but you might as well make five or six pairs afterwards.
  38. 1 point
    A wife can divorce you for many reasons. At least you get an airplane out of this way. lol.
  39. 1 point
    My wife would divorce me if I spent that much time building an airplane.
  40. 1 point
    Builder of many things. Planes, trains, car, and anything else i would like to try. Also learning CAD. CFD soon.
  41. 1 point
    Awesome! Can't wait. Another one: Coming up next month:August 8, 2020 at 09:00 USA Central time. Dave Dugas and his award winning Revmaster powered Q-2.
  42. 1 point
    I have not finished them. Might want to talk to Jon https://www.canardzone.com/profile/126731-jon-matcho/
  43. 1 point
    My comment wasn't directed at anyone. Mostly just forum people. Been on forums before and I have seen people talk lots and not lots of work. I'm sorry if it came off that way.
  44. 1 point
    Yeah I suppose you should when someone says you’re a big mouth with clean hands.
  45. 1 point
    molds, molds, molds You mold-talkers should get together and make a set of "traveling EZ molds". For a small fee, a truck shows up at your house, unloads a full set of molds. You pull skins off them and put them back on the truck. I am sure Burt would have done that if he'd thought of it. The man had no imagination. 🙂
  46. 1 point
    Jason- Post some photos of what you've got going.
  47. 1 point
    The Rotax engine range is amazing, but in my view, the UL390 series makes the most sense if you want a modern (fuel injected with FADEC) engine with a bit more power. Some people have put O-320s in EZs. They are heavier than the O-235 , and I hear people need to add weight up front to maintain the CG position. The UL390 is about the same weight as the O-235, and has variants ranging from 140hp to 160hp. Its torque lies between that of the O-235 and the O-320. Of course, a new engine mount design is required for the UL Power engines.
  48. 1 point
    It's been way too long. I know many builders and flyers understand where I'm coming from. I haven't done any real work on the project in 6 months until today. The delay was caused in no small part by moving to a new property, picking up additional work, and other things in life taking up my time. Finally, today I spent an hour or so working on the project and completed a step that had been waiting that long. It is so very satisfying! Happily the step went well and only a little blood was drawn by the glass. Pretty good I'd say! There will be plenty more where that came from. Work on the project that is - hopefully not too much more blood, I've spilled plenty of that already. Did I ever post about the time my recip saw blade got stuck and the body started reciprocating instead, crushing my fingertip repeatedly and rapidly against the work? Ow. And another big step was getting my flight instructor ticket renewed last week, 10 years and 2 days since the last time I flew as an instructor! The flight went pretty well, and I look forward to teaching at the local flying club a few times a week going forward. I enjoy instructing, and of course flying which I have done very little of over the last decade!
  49. 1 point
    Congratulations!!! Building an airplane is a long term hobby, so its ok if there are breaks. Glad you’re back at it! Andrew
  50. 1 point
    Over the years I have acquired three sets of Long Eze plans. One I purchased from Burt and built N33X from, IO-320 Long Ez, and the other two from project that I purchased along the way. As far as I know the other two have not been built from but all are in fair, but used condition. If you are still interested please contact me. I also have a lot of parts from the two projects, enough to build a complete Long, but I am parting them out to builders that might need them.

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