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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/19/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Nope! 😉 That is what the FAA sent me... I am going to see if I can track a person down at FAA records to see if that is all there is (or contact FSDO and see if they can pull it...) I think this was the result of some automation - and no verification. There had to be some other docs on this plane (it was a flying airplane - so it had to have some other sort of records at the FAA). I know that experimental aircraft are "usually a little light" - but I think this is a bit on the extreme side! LOL!!
  2. 2 points
    Well the frame is only 12" where the GIB's shoulders would be so making it a two seat plane would require major modifications. Right now I see the plane as a concept demonstrator. There are things I want to try out so the modular construction will allow me to try different things. I don't think there is a need for a tandem two seat plane that is just marginally smaller than the LE. In this single seat configuration, 200# lighter than the LE and with 130 fuel injected HP from the most technically advanced engine in experimental aviation, I think it will be a hot rod. The next version could be without strakes or perhaps put the engine in front of the spar an have a single seat E-Racer.
  3. 2 points
    Here is a DXF file of the winglet alignment jig I mentioned earlier in this thread. IMO, it's a much more reliable way to align a winglet although the wing must be mounted on the aircraft to compare the winglet chord to A/C centerline. The plans do not say so directly, but doing the trig shows that the winglet chord is intended to align with the A/C centerline. It is worth moving an airplane outdoors to mount the wings, determine the A/C centerline and get this right! WingletAlignJig.dxf
  4. 2 points
    The September 2018 canard desktop calendar is ready for download.As always: Thanks a lot for the many beautiful pictures I have received so far. I’m still looking for new pictures, if you have pictures to share, please send them over to me. I need as large resolution as possible. My bandwidth is no problem, so don’t be afraid to send over large images!Safe flying (and building!)!Here is the link: http://ljosnes.no/co...anard-calendar/
  5. 2 points
    1.) Consider a Cozy MKIV.... side by side front seating is very nice for some people and the cost / work is similar. 2.) You can buy a good flying Long-EZ or Cozy for the same that it will cost to build one. Just make certain to get a PPI from one of the recommended people. Just ask, we'll help you find one. 3.) The Long-EZ and Cozy designs are very mature.... meaning they are well proven and there should be no unpleasant surprises if you follow the plans. 4.) Build because you want to build... not because you want to get flying for less cost. I have no regrets tackling a Cozy build, but it wasn't a cheap and easy way to go flying. If you decide to do this.... its a lot of fun!
  6. 2 points
    Jon Matcho provided excellent advice. This isn’t a once in a while type of project. Folks that treat it that way never finish. Be prepared to spend between 1000 and 2000 hours completing it. The wide variation is dependent on your abilities to do hands on projects and how Much “extra” you decide to do. And one more thing, it is a project that you will be proud of forever. It will open advenures you never dreamed of. I have never met anyone who completed their plane that regretted it.
  7. 2 points
    There are lots of builder sites. https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/32503-a-heapin-helpin-of-builder-links/?tab=comments#comment-61295
  8. 2 points
    The dams are per COZY MKIV plans.
  9. 1 point
    I'll save you guys the hassle regarding 44TJ. Enclosed Oil Report. Lots of metal in the engine; Titanium and Tin which could be the babbet sleeves and crankshaft, which = Complete Overhaul The Owner knows his engine has a problem, but is still selling at too high of a price. Will only sell as De-register. Will not remove engine, etc. Be careful. N44TJ-180102(1).pdf
  10. 1 point
    Bob Nuckolls (Aeroelectric.com) says PVC is not particularly unsafe-- lot of airplanes have used PVC--but Tefzel (Teflon) and/or PTFE is better. The latter uses tinned strands, the cover has a higher melting point, is thinner and more resistant to cuts and tie-wrap pinching, and can be had in a lot of color combinations. Do you have his book? A must-have for builders. http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/pub/pub.html See also: https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/18661-kents-long-ez-project/?do=findComment&comment=61303
  11. 1 point
    I'm using a little for some small parts, 2mm I think is the thickness I have. Makes for a nice stiff part, where just glass isn't quite enough without a bunch of plies, which would be heavier.
  12. 1 point
    I've been a Rutan enthusiast since I was a child and saw the 3-2-1 Contact episode about the Voyager. Aviation has been one of my biggest passions throughout life and I was able to earn my PPL in 2008. I have built cars since I was young and naturally decided that I needed to build my own airplane. I had myself convinced that the RV-7 was going to be the one. (please don't ban me!) I figured since it was newer, I was comfortable with metal, etc. My son and I went to Oshkosh in '10 and caught one of Burt Rutan's forums. Then we caught Dick Rutan's forum. At that point I decided they were the two coolest guys on earth and I had to build a Long-EZ! We went back the following year for Burt's tribute and attended everything EZ we could get our hands on. I attended Rough River a couple of years but always managed to be there when everyone was somewhere else, lol. Life has a way of kicking you in the gut at times and I still haven't been able to actually start making airplane parts. I am working my way through the composite practice handbook though. I've read the CP's beginning to end at least four times and have of course scoured YouTube for all of the Rutan and Mike Melvill videos I can. Mike has perched himself at the top of my coolest pilots in the world rankings. I've put together my plans from the OpenEZ project and marked all of the changes in the CP's. My wife and I just moved into our new house in Alabama with a shop this year. I'm starting to put my workspace together and get rid of a bunch of extra junk. Hopefully within the next year I can start to slowly work my way through the build.
  13. 1 point
    Currently building a conventional design but I’m a huge Rutan fan. After this plane I want to build a Long EZ.
  14. 1 point
    Sounds like an interesting build, Mike. My 'Not Quite So Cozy' is wider and longer than stock as well - just finishing up the fuselage tub now. It is true what they say, make one change and the change affects so many other things! I don't mind, that's half the fun to me.
  15. 1 point
    To fill in the blanks, I am retired and living LArkspur ,CO. I went to work for McDonnell Douglas and Boeing as a test pilot after a 25 year career in the military, USMC. Loved the Long Eze when it came out and built N33X with first flight in 1987. N33X is a long nose O-320 powered chariot. LOL. Originally had an O-235, but got involved the RACE events and had the “need for speed” bug bite. i was not flying for awhile due to cardiac issues the FAA didn’t like. Glad the rules have changed. Currently building a Cozy MK4. I love flying, but I also really enjoy the satisfaction of building. My Cozy, I guess I will need a new name, is wider and longer since I prefer to not be quite as “cozy” as Nat made it. I have several inches and a few pounds on Nat, LOL. Hope to meet many of you at events to come.
  16. 1 point
    Jon, it was intended as a joke. Marc know hows much I respect his work and opinions
  17. 1 point
    Some of us are in both the have built and are flying group as well as tackling a new build.
  18. 1 point
    You'd need a neck injury for that Long not to turn your head!
  19. 1 point
    A couple last lessons from my hot-cylinder story: It seemed like my torque wrench was applying way too much torque on the plugs. A while back I welded two old sockets together so I could compare my clicker wrench against a beam wrench. Holy cow, the clicker was at least 10 lb/ft off! There are some decent tutorials on how to recalibrate the clicker wrenches. Below is one. Good to know because just taking one apart is not intuitively obvious although they are fairly simple. This time I scribed the position of the calibration-adjuster nut for a quick check for future use. I had screwed it way off. Frankly, I didn't understand how the clicker's worked until now. Bet I'm not the only one, though. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEZ-ajSksHs I bought one of those Vivdia Ablescopes to have a look at the exhaust valves. https://www.amazon.com/Vividia-Ablescope-VA-400-Borescope-Articulating/dp/B00GY7C9ZW/ref=sr_1_2/136-3577512-8573310?ie=UTF8&qid=1535143738&sr=8-2&keywords=vividia+ablescope My exhaust valves looked quite good (pic) 700 hours on this engine. I see a little oil collecting in the bottom of #4 that I must keep an eye on. The oil-burning problems I have had all occurred on the professionally-overhauled cylinders. The cylinders I honed at home seem to be good. http://forum.canardaviation.com/showpost.php?p=69232&postcount=41
  20. 1 point
    Hi Duncan, welcome! Here are some thoughts off the top of my head: Setup for this to be your only hobby for a good while. Your life will be family, work, and this. Be sure to bring your significant other along, slowly, and that they appreciate what you're doing. Setup your shop now, before you get into it. I made the mistake of dancing around these first 3 points myself and ended up moving my project twice in various states. Stick to the plans. There are several commonly accepted modifications (ex. electric landing gear, speed brake, etc.) that you can incorporate with relative ease, but ANYTHING unique will cost you time and threaten completion. Consider picking up an abandoned project. Many start but abandon after a few chapters of work. Buy prefab parts to the extent you can. Treat it as a project. The only thing that makes it move forward is time in the shop, every day, even if just to prepare for the next working session. Make sure it's fun and enjoyable. Take that with a grain of salt and keep asking questions.
  21. 1 point
    Well sure, if you are some sort of rich inspector-of-canards charging innocents confiscatory amounts to bless their ill-informeed purchases and can thereby finance a mega-buck FI system. I am using a wick soaking in parrafin that only works after the wood fire is brought up to termperature.
  22. 1 point
    Tricked again! After a plug change I noticed that #1 was showing noticeable hotter CHTs than before--maybe 25-30 degrees hotter CHT and it was going over 425F in a climb which I don't like to see, although it WAS a pretty hot day. So I swapped in some new plugs, futzed around checking for an intake leak, test flew, pulled the EGT sensor out of the exhaust and had a look (normal) and finally borescoped the cylinder. All looked normal. Then I noticed that I had gotten sloppy and installed the upper cowl with the upper baffle folded inward so that plenum air was leaking around the baffle (pic 1). I mounted the cowl correctly and voila (or "wall-ah" as some folks say), problem solved. I used dams on the upper cowls. It is just one way of doing it but the upper baffle must make a good seal against the plenum pressure below. I have seen some new installations where the upper baffles flopped inboard--a guarantee of cooling problems with updraft cooling. Pic 2 is how it normally looks.
  23. 1 point
    While I agree with building airplanes, and not infrastructure, a well planned and efficient 'infrastructure' sure makes building faster and easier! But it doesn't need to be the next wonder of the world, either. Tidy and effective is enough, looks like that is what you are going for, Jon!
  24. 1 point
    First of all, I'm a bit of a control freak... I built my epoxy hot-box as a large unit (on wheels!) with three compartments. The top compartment has its own door, and holds the dispensing bottles (I use capped sauce bottles, and measure on a digital scale) and the containers holding flox, microballoons, etc. I figure keeping the micro or flox warm as well would not drop the temperature of the mix, ensuring lower viscosity and lighter micro mixes. Small difference, perhaps, but I have space, so why not? The compartment below that is open to the hot compartment above (holes in opposite corners of the top shelf) that is large enough to hold 20kg of resin and 5kg of hardener so that the 'bulk' epoxy is kept warm to avoid crystallization issues over winter. The final compartment at the bottom is not open to the heated area above, but is still insulated. I now keep containers of a different resin and hardener in here (fast hardener, and a resin more suitable for sanding). While not kept as warm as the compartments above, the insulation will still protect it from the daily extremes of temperature in my current uninsulated workshop. The top of the unit happens to be ideally sized to hold an open set of Aerocanard plans! I installed an incandescent light bulb as a heat source, per the traditional method, at the top of the right-rear of the MIDDLE compartment. Above it is a hole, approx 2"x3". There is a hold the same size in the opposite corner of the shelf. This creates a gentle convection, keeping the air in the top compartment warm, and the middle compartment almost as warm. It should also reduce the 'hot-spot' next to the heat source, which also has a shield between it and the epoxy containers. I wired the light bulb to a temperature controller mounted in the front of the unit. I got this off Ebay quite inexpensively . It is a little awkward to wire, but not too difficult. It switches the light OFF once the selected temperature is reached, and turns it back ON once the temperature drops 1deg below the selected temperature. The temperature probe hangs from the top of the topmost compartment. Thus the epoxy bottles are kept within 1 or 2 degrees of the temperature I want at all times, all year round. The downside is the light bulb gets cycled on and off every 20 minutes or so, and will blow after only 2 - 3 months. This didn't bother me particularly, the blubs are inexpensive. But now incandescent bulbs are getting harder to find! I looked at the reptile heaters that have been suggested. They could work, but cost a bit more than I wanted to spend, or would not easily fit where I need it to. I found and purchased this 100w ceramic heater, also on Ebay . It is almost the perfect size to mount under the hole in the top shelf, where the light bulb once was. It works great, and hopefully will be far more durable than a light bulb (not that it is impossible to build a durable incandescent bulb, but then you would never buy new ones!). It has been operating for about a week, and works at least as well as the light blub did before. Note that the linked parts a 220v. If you decide to create a similar setup, be sure to get one matching the voltage supply in your country!
  25. 1 point