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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/28/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    My EZ was an Open-ez although I registered it as a "Zipper". I liked the Zipper name and wanted to respect Burt's request to not use the Long-ez name so as to shield him from liability. Your post reminded me that I intended to send Burt a few hundred for the use of his design and, shamefully, never followed through until now. Since then I sold the airplane. Funny but ATC is always flummoxed by a "Zipper" that looks like an EZ so my buyer and I usually just call in as 'Long-ez XXX". One time ATC in California looked up the registration and told him "You can't use "Long-EZ" because you are a "Zipper". 🙂
  2. 2 points
    I guess you missed my smiley face or don’t appreciate that it is an attempt to say something in a joking way. No matter. Yes, i was a little snarky but Mr NolaDoogie, when no-name post-ers show up asking to be fed and don’t show the slightest attempt to Google for the information they want, or use the search resources of this massive website, that’s my reaction. You do not appreciate, either, that i made the effort to find the answer you wanted and post it for you. I won’t make that mistake again. Have a nice life.
  3. 2 points
    Jerry Gardner has thousands of hours on his VariEze in Sheridan. But, I don’t think he flies it anymore. He kept his plane in a trailer and hauled it to the airport almost every time he flew it. I just posted a bunch of pictures from my visit with him in 2015 on Facebook (Rutan LongEz and VariEze group). I bought my VariEze in Cody that year.
  4. 2 points
    FINISHING: I have posted these pics before but I want them all in one post so here goes: Pics 1,2 shows how I have lightly sanded the bare weave surface. A light sanding with 36 grit in two directions is all that is necessary. Even that may not be necessary--epoxy sticks!--but it gives me a warm fuzzy to sand a bit. Then it helps to prefill low and high areas on the wing and sand those pretty flat. These areas are over the spar caps, the wing bolt reinforcement UNI, the trailing edge, and the like. A prefill will make the Big Fill flatter. Notice that I have also used micro on the leading edge of the wing and will round that off. It is more bug-resistant than West 410 Microlight filler. Then I do the Big Fill using West epoxy & slow hardener and 410 Microlight that I buy in a 4LB box (about $275). Mix to a peanut-butter consistency. Do not be stingy with this first fill--you want to get plenty of filler applied to make sure you fill all the big waves and low areas and can sand them flat without hitting the weave. Any time you hit the weave, stop sanding. You will sand a lot of the Big Fill off but that's what is needed. I use a 6" rubber squeegee to spread it on fast, then transition to a 6" or 12" metal drywall knife that I heat with a few passes of a propane torch. The heated drywall knife lets me even-out the filler with fewer ridges as the filler is beginning to get hard. Try to get the filler pretty smooth; it makes sanding easier. I wouldn't mix the filler as thick as you can, it will be hard to spread and hard to make even. Pics 3.4 - Sand the Big Fill with 36 grit. Inevitably, there are low places, pits and scratches left. I mark low areas and pits with a Sharpie and _refill_the_entire_wing_again, this time with filler that is a little less stiff; it smooths better, does not leave as many pinholes and will make a consistent hardness for further sanding. Cover the entire wing with filler and especially over the marked (low) areas. It is a mistake to try to just spot fill. The filler mixture will be harder or softer in spots and the sanding board will teeter-totter over the high filler and gouge low places. Just refill the whole wing. Sand (36 grit) until you just begin to see the marks under the second layer of filler, then I might follow up with 180 grit to remove the 36 grit scratches. The wing is looking pretty even now but there will usually be a few spots that require spot filling or patch filling. If there are a substantial number of places, then it's better to mark them as before and refill the entire wing. Now the wing is looking flat and about a 180 grit finish. Pic 5 - Guidecoat: At this point I spray a mist-coat of cheap black rattle-can primer and sand it all off to reveal scratches, pits and defects that need work. In the photo, I have used more black primer than I needed but it sands off pretty easily. If there are any big pits, I might put a dot of runny micro over them. The Aluminum Bar Rub - A wing can look flat but it's not. A various times in the process I use a scrap piece of 18" X 1.25" X .5" stiff aluminum bar which I mark up heavily with a Sharpie and rub over the surface as if I was sanding. The bar will leave oxide and sharpie smudges on the subtle waves and high spots the will need a little further sanding. Sand those areas gingerly and rub again. Eventually the smudges will blend together which means the wing is getting really flat. pics 6,7 - Epoxy wipes ("Cory Bird Method"). Now you have a nice flat wing with no big pits or scratches but plenty of pinholes. Cory suggested 5 wipes of straight epoxy. Squeegee-off the excess firmly and let it tack-up between applications. However three wipes usually does it for me. It will fill pinholes and 180 grit scratches. Do not expect it to fill 36 grit scratches. I find the straight epoxy will clump-up from surface tension (pics 5, 6). Maybe there is a way to avoid that but I don't know one. Wet-sand the cured surface with 240-360 grit and it will leave a pretty good, flat epoxy surface for an epoxy primer-surfacer or primer. Over-sanding will remove the wipes and expose pinholes. I have filled and painted 3 airplanes. For wing sanding, I don't use anything more than scraps of 2X4 with sandpaper stapled to the ends you can see in pic 6.
  5. 1 point
    Here's an old thread on the monowheel Europa. The thing that caught my eye was "no differential braking". A tailwheel airplane is already more tricky to control and without the ability to use brakes to control yaw, I imagine it could be a handful. Never flown in one. I have sat in a Europa and the wheel took up a lot of room in the middle. Redesigning the whole fuselage to incorporate the bulk of the wheel would seem to be the first big problem. When you make changes that big you might as well start with a clean sheet of paper. https://www.pprune.org/private-flying/377620-europa-xs-monowheel.html
  6. 1 point
    Just reading this accident where a CE-172 tried to takeoff from a 5737 elevation airstrip--St Johns Industrial, AZ KSJN--with 8600' density altitude, could not maintain altitude and crashed. http://www.kathrynsreport.com/2020/05/loss-of-control-in-flight-cessna-172n.html? I have been to that airport and a buddy of mine almost bought the farm there in his Cozy III, previously discussed. https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/18661-kents-long-ezproject/?do=findComment&comment=65903 (disregard the bad info on runway width, it's a normal width) The Cessna owner was from Michigan (630' elevation). The airplane was near max gross weight with three people. The report mentions that the crew aborted the first takeoff attempt on the short runway and tried again on the longer runway. The report does not say whether the crew leaned to peak power before takeoff but that would be my guess; it is a common mistake by a sea-level pilot. Rough numbers: at 8600' DA the engine leaned to peak can only make about 75% power. At full rich it is making significantly less--maybe 65%. The fact that the crew, flying an O-320 airplane at near max gross weight with 8600' D.A. initially chose the short runway, supports the presumption they probably took off without leaning. The sloppy report does not discuss this. What triggers a pilot to think "Hmm, I should lean the engine before I roll". I have flown with pilots who never lean anytime at any altitude. However if a pilot is in the habit of leaning on the ground and leaning to peak power for his altitude, he is more likely to make the connection between a hot day at 5737' elevation and the need to lean before brake release.
  7. 1 point
    It's already been 14 years since this life-changing post landed, any Open-Ez projects initiated from it flying yet?
  8. 1 point
    Good Morning Steve, I have a flying Cozy in Casper, and would be happy to make the trip to Gillette, Ross 307-277-4642
  9. 1 point
    “Keyboard Tough Guy”, wow, that really sings to me. Dibbs on that one. Alternatively, “Your Highness” sounds pretty good. I will answer to “a**hole” too. Momma always called me that.
  10. 1 point
    Hello EZ people, I made some surfaces from Open EZ data I downloaded ages ago. 'Thought I would share them. I am going further with the modeling, making a sleeker canopy, and a slightly less drooped nose, along with packaging the UL390i engine. It is almost as heavy as the O-235, is slightly smaller, very likely less expensive, fuel injected, and has FADEC. I will add a few WIP pictures. Cheers, Justin ps I think there is a file size limit on uploading images. I tried some just over 3mb and they failed. OpenEZ.zip
  11. 1 point
    Just reading where a Cozy builder on FB mentioned buying PPG Deltron single stage for $506/gallon. I will just throw this out: Consider using Nason (Axalta) 2K Fulthane at $186/gallon. Nason is Axalta’s non-advertised brand—Nason doesn’t pay for NASCAR sponsorships and the colors are not as extensive. It is likely a touch down in quality from Imron but the limiting factor for me is not the paint quality but the skill of the painter. I have painted three airplanes and several cars with the Frost White and other colors. I always have some sort of painter-induced problem—a run or sag—but a sag in $506 paint would make me cry like a baby. https://www.johnsonautobodysupply.com/Axalta-Nason-Fulthane-Frost-White-400-53-Gallon.html The Nason is good paint. Unless you are an experienced painter in a proper booth, you will have runs, sags, orange peel, or bugs. Below, a recent EZ paint job. I have nothing against base/clear paints; I just got started with single-stage and generally use that. I generally paint outdoors in the Fall on a calm morning. I find dust is not much of a problem (unless you are shooting for show-quality); I am going to buff-out the finish anyway. I will stand by with tweezers for the occasional bug until the paint hardens up (30 mins or so). When I have not painted for a while, I get rusty. If you are not experienced, spray a car first to learn how. Even though this was my 3rd airplane paint-job and I have painted several cars, on this EZ, I had an incident where I sprayed too heavily and got a horrendous sag the full length of the leading edge. I ended up wiping-off a bunch of wet paint with a lacquer thinner-soaked rag and respraying. That's a good reason to use $186 paint! Usually it is a smaller problem.
  12. 1 point
    Here we Go!
  13. 1 point
    Hi Jon, I use Rhino for surface lofting, and a combination of Rhino and Catia for detail and assembly work. Catia renders pictures well enough for me, and is fairly quick at it. I don't know if I will build an EZ, but was helping with some modifications on another one, and just continued modelling.
  14. 1 point
    Nice model, good work.
  15. 1 point
    Ahaa.... JPG format works better
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Looking for help with Brackets for my Auto pilot Install G3X synced to GSA 28 smart servo's
  18. 1 point
    I did some pre-airplane fabricating as well, in my case a custom glass mount for a baggage pod for my motorcycle. I'd be inclined to build a simple mold that is tough enough for multiple uses, then lay-up and pull 2 parts from it, add internal baffles as needed, then bond the two halves together. Really depends on exactly what you want though. The lost-foam method can be messy, but should work.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    The May 2020 Canard Desktop Calendar is ready for download. As always: Thanks a lot for the many beautiful pictures I have received so far. I’m still looking for new pictures, if you have pictures to share, please send them over to me. I need as large resolution as possible. My bandwidth is no problem, so don’t be afraid to send over large images!Safe flying (and building!)!Here is the link: http://ljosnes.no/co...anard-calendar/
  21. 1 point
    Do you have to pay by the vowel to advertise in Barnstormers? Kent, your abbreviations escape me.
  22. 1 point
    I listed my long ez for $95k a while back and got 3 separate offers for $90k and decided not to sell. There are small pieces of cardboard that have sold for millions called baseball cards. Value is solely dependent on what 1 person is willing to pay and not based on the opinion of the masses. Value is driven by those who write the checks. Period. So if Jamie gets $50k for his Varieze then good for him. Not our job to chime in on value unless we are prepared to pony up the cash or have been hired by a prospective buyer to value it based on personal opinion at the request of the buyer Best of luck with the sale Jamie. Nate
  23. 1 point
    I do but unless you're in OZ I doubt I'm the closest person with a set.

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