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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/22/2021 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    The rotax 912 is very popular these days, the shp is good too, for it is similar to 0-200, both 100hp. If you want more hp, then you have rotax 915, with 135 hp. The PROs of using rotax engine would be it can operate on autogas, and it's a more modern engine. But I could hardly find anyone adapted rotax on a long ez on the internet, anyone know if it is possible to do so? The only issue I could think of is the lighter weight of the rotax, and a custom made engine mount is probably needed too, any other issue?
  2. 1 point
    After successfully working through my VariEze and getting it back into the air, I came across a Long-Ez for sale in Indiana. I took the trailer down in late November and picked up N24DJ. It was first flown in 1990 and had current hours in 2020. Total hours on the airframe and O-290-D2 is around 1200. It was not a cosmetically pleasing finish job, but it ran smooth and had some bonus extra features that made it worthwhile to take on as a project. I started on the interior this weekend,by removing the panel and a majority of the wiring. In the images below, you will see the previous owner had cut out a majority of the panel bulkhead and built a replacement panel. It had individual gauges for all the engine instrumentation, so all the CHT, EGT, temps, pressures, tach wires all ran from the back to the front. That is all gone now. I am going to rebuild the panel bulkhead and start over with a new panel layout and use the MGL Blaze setup as I did for the VariEze. I will retain the radio & transponder with ADSB out. The builder had also used the electronic circuit breaker system from Control Vision (EXP-2V). I am not sure if I will retain that or not. There were also a few manual circuit breakers on the armrest for the electric nose lift, pitch trim, and landing brake. The other tasks I am planning so far are: - pull the engine, and update the layout in the engine area - new baffle system - rework the cowlings - all new electrical wiring & panel rebuild - flip the fuse over to rework the main landing gear attachments - redo interior bodywork (sand old paint, repaint, new cushions) - complete exterior bodywork (sand old paint & filler, refill, sand, and paint) - new ELT This one will take a bit longer than the VariEze, but it will be a fun project. I am not planning any major upgrades or high-expense panel upgrades. I am looking to have a nice, basic Long-Ez when done. The images below are the trailer load, the panel after just starting the tear-out, and the panel after the tear-out.
  3. 1 point
    A Rotax 915 might be a better option, with 150-ish horsepower. With a pusher, you have to be careful of prop strikes if you move the engine further from the firewall, as Kent mentioned. Tractor aircraft don't get off easy, either--you have to account for the impact of a longer nose on the aerodynamic stability of your airplane, too. It's probably better to try and manage the cg with a lighter engine by moving avionics and such aft as much as possible.
  4. 1 point
    100 hp is not enough. 150-160 is a good hp for the EZ. 125 was barely adequate (but I never flew the O-235 versions) and people fly them heavier than Burt envisioned . There would be times on a hot day, high field elevation or shortish runway when you would be sweating Tabasco sauce wondering if you can get off the ground. 🙂 Also if you move the engine aft, the prop might be close to the runway during rotation and landing. Some people are using the ULPower engines but check the prices. It's hard to beat a used/rebuilt O-320. The cost of avgas is not that great compared to hangars and insurance; there's where the money goes.
  5. 1 point
    Please indulge me: (1) The Tri-Q above was originally posted with a Craigslist link last year. The poster was not the seller so I doubt anyone knows anything more about this airplane. If you really want to find it, go to this page in the FAA Registry https://registry.faa.gov/aircraftinquiry/Search/MakeModelInquiry and enter Model "Tri-q". Leave the Manufacturer blank. Try different spellings. The stupid FAA does not identify the N-numbers in that result or accomodate a search by Manufacturer Code but for any aircraft that looks likely, do a Google Verbatim search [ https://www.google.com/webhp?tbs=li:1 ] for a result like James Langley Tri Quickie and it will usually bring up the N-number. Go back to the Registry search and search for that N-number if desired which will show you some ownership history. If you knew the county of location for sure, you could search by state and county in the Registry. (2) oftentimes, the best way to ask a poster about an old post is to send him a direct message which will go to his email address. Do that by clicking on his name and finding the link "Message". (3) If you just want to comment about the state of aviation or your own condition, please start your own topic. The topic of this thread is "Sales I've seen". Let us stick to canards for sale or sold. Or how to track them down! Your cooperation is appreciated. 🙂
  6. 1 point
    https://q-list.groups.io/g/main http://www.quickheads.com https://imageevent.com/qdf_files/quickiefiles Also, search Q-Tour on youtube. The experts are there. The one in IN on barnstormers looks good. I would be all over it if I wasn't set on the original canard and gear. 635# empty is fine.
  7. 1 point
    Today on Craigslist. Varieze first discussed here November 20th https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/21972-sales-ive-seen/?do=findComment&comment=73292 reduced from $11500 to $6500. https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/wsh/avo/d/new-richmond-varieze-project-new-price/7301436431.html Yeah, I thought it was pricey the first time through. Sometimes there are interesting things in Craig's Aviation section if you have the patience to go through them. Like this Ellison today https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/avo/d/camas-ellison-efs-throttle-body/7305953549.html The easiest way is to google search "site:craigslist.org [your item]" or if you have selected an aviation section for one city, keep clicking new cities and it will show their aviation sections. Yeah, you can waste gobs of time with that one. 😞
  8. 1 point
    Hi Jon, There are only pictures there. The zipped 3D stuff is 'unavailable'..... Oh... wait.... I see it is there if one is signed in. Good stuff ! Stay safe, Justin
  9. 1 point
    Sorry guys, since I started this project, I've bought a house and things at work got crazy busy... Haven't had much time to work on this. That looks great!
  10. 1 point
    My CAD stuff expired in another thread here, but it is available at:- https://grabcad.com/library/open-ez-experimental-aircraft-1 I might come back to Open EZ, but am too busy right now. Stay safe everyone. Justin
  11. 1 point
    Under $20K. Aside from less-than-desirable bodywork and paint, it had the electric nose lift, electric elevator trim, electric speed brake, ADSB-Out, Catco 3-blde prop, recent carb and mag overhauls. The former owner was a retiring A&P and documented all the work and upgrades very well. He was still actively flying it up until I bought it and put 1200 hours on it over 30 years. I found a few things that I discussed with him that were not show-stoppers, but I felt needed attention before I would be comfortable putting decent hours on it. The deals are out there if you can assess the condition well enough and be ready to buy. I know that the less-featured (& lower cost) Ez's get ALOT of tire-kickers. If I am fairly certain I am buying, I show up with the trailer and then negotiate based on findings. I am not an expert on inspecting, but confident enough to analyze if there are any major issues. I know that I will be doing a full strip-down when I get started. If I was looking at buying and immediately flying, I would go at it with different approach using the guys who do have the expertise to do a pre-buy (Marc Zeitlin, Robert Harris, etc.). These planes would probably be on a higher cost scale and may not need much work to continue flying. I purchased both of mine as projects, knowing I would be digging down deep and replacing/rebuilding a good portion of the systems and doing significant work on them. I was lucky in that both the VariEze and Long-Ez were very well documented, and I was able to talk directly with the original builders who had also put all the flying hours on them. You will be surprised where you find Ez's hiding. If you are at an airport, just start asking the older guys about them. Somebody will eventually know a guy who used to have one, etc. I have been at my airport for 13 years and NEVER saw an EZ there. Two months ago, I found a 250 hour Oshkosh award winning Cozy 3, that has sat un-flying for 20 years just two hangars away from mine. I found the owner who lives out of the country, have moved it to my hangar to clean it up and store it for him, and am now negotiating to buy it. The engine likely needs a rebuild, but the rest of the plane is in incredible condition. The picture below shows my VariEze and the Cozy.
  12. 1 point
    All bulkheads are read to place the layer and start with FS 89, so far the first layer done and fixed in a vacuum bag. 😀
  13. 1 point
    If you can find and copy the plans, you can build a Vari as people are doing with the Open-ez on this site. The Varieze POH is here http://roynouguier.free.fr/vezoman.pdf I do not see any G-limits but the POH suggests a maximum empty weight 580 and 1100 for takeoff. I suppose the G-limit isn't specified because it depends on your weight and what you tested to. I imagine a lot of Varis are heavier than Burt planned for. I do not recall one coming apart. AFAIK ( I never owned a Vari), the corrosion problem in the wing attach fittings was not satisfactorily resolved. It depends on the individual airplane, the preparation of the aluminum plates, how the airplane was stored and protected from moisture and is hard to diagnose and fix. Apparently the wing-attach plates in a new airplane are just fine but where to buy them? I don't know. A machinist could make them. I believe I've read about a guy who built a Vari using the sort of centerspar and wing attachment system in the Long-ez/Cozys but I wouldn't attempt that unless I'd built a Long-ez first and understood how those were built. I would guess a Vari that lived out west or was hangared all it's life would be OK. I'd be "vary" suspicious of one stored outside in a marine environment. There has been lots of discussion about Varis and the wing attach problem over the years. Unfortunately, Google does not cover all the canard websites and list-servers very well. Try the links here (CanardAviation.com has died)
  14. 1 point
    Here is my rollover structure in primer. I still have to add a mount for a canopy stay and perhaps a GPS mount for the back-seater. The main tube is 1.5"OD x .065W 4130 from Pro-werks. http://www.pro-werks.com/partdetail/C42-290/. The legs of the bend were long enough to use the excess to make the crossbar. I found a race car shop to bend two 7/8" OD x .049W 4130 support tubes. Bending wrinkled the 7/8 tubes a little so I welded in a reinforcement over the wrinkle on each side. It weighs about 6 1/2 pounds--heavy but I don't see how you could make one much lighter. If I had to do it over, I would use a continuous 18" (or so) angle over each longeron rather than two pieces of angle on each side. It would make a stronger triangle for better support, I think. There would also be less warpage during welding. Might also move the mount for the support tube a bit further aft, too. Oh well, next time . . . Some guys have put the support tubes on the forward side so the canopy brace can come down behind the structure. -Kent

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