rickh

Craig: I brought it down to Curt's hanger (KLMO) last week. He won't be needing it for a month/two, I'll ask. I think I made it durable enough for 'several' main spar builds. Rick

Never mind. Cozy needs six of something that looks like NC-3. I forgot you were building a Long Educational purposes only! Thanks, Rick

This topic got me motivated today, I axe'd up some AL for the lift tabs and hinges a few hours ago Noob Kwestion: You have NC3 and NC3a sketches in the PDF, should I be concerned? I made mine to the NC-3 sketch (minus the hinge pin/bushing hole... for now). Rick

Lipstick? NC-3's. It appears the plans drawing is correct, but the written dimention is not. It should be 2.0": Chap. 11, p.3: On NC-3, change 2.3” to 2.0”. as found on: http://www.cozybuilders.org/newsletters/MKIV_corr_TE.html Rick

Plans BID is fairly popular, I understand you should be looking for Hexcel branded. UNI is a tough find, I think ACS and Wicks are the two major sellers. Foam, H-xxx series, DIAB. Urethane is cheap regardless (though ship is a pain) Clark Foam / Last-A-Foam is somewhat common. Extruded polystyrene is always a topic for discussion Nutz/boltz, AN spec. Steels and aluminums may be sourced locally, though be sure of what you're getting. Some have substituted plans wood products. *I* find I can save a fair penny by ordering in bulk, not by the chapter. YMMV. Rick

I received the oh-fish-ul Okey-Dokey to do something in print media for the Sam and Dave show (aka RR). Does anyone know where I can find a hi-res file of the CSA logo? The one I found on ez.org is a bit small for print. TIA, Rick

Cozy? This is how I did mine, YMMV... One ply BID over the entire interior, all five planes. BTW, I did the center strip of glass first, then left and right. This way a fiberglass lap joint isn't visible from the Bass Monster cutouts you do at the end of the chapter. Install CS bulkheads (trim these to be tight, then clamp on the outside; IMHO). Add one ply BID on these bulkheads, lapping 1" onto the first layup, except where the hardpoint and UNI reinforcements go. There, I lapped 5". The outside bulkhead BID gets lapped 1" onto the bulkhead, and 5" where the hardpoints and UNI layups go. Not a second layer of BID over the entire face of the outside bulkhead as I think you're implying. Install UNI strips, add hardpoints, add flox transition, add small rectangle of BID to cover hardpoints, weight. Rick

Me too, though Nick's presentation last year was kinda interesting. If not a wee bit long KISS. Bunch of canard jockey's, bunch of builders, bunch of future builders; all yacking canards. And canard suppliers too! Rick

I'll be bringing 64 +/- sets of cutlery; catsup, mustards, and kraut. I *may* buy napkins and plates locally, unless someone else... I know there's gonna be a bunch of kewl door prizes to be given away Saturday PM, so if anyone is sitting on the fence about attending... Rick

One of the reasons I go to RR (not the only reason though ) is the communal food fest. I can see canards locally, and save 2800 miles of expensive fuel. I've only been to RR twice, and can see how it could [did] escalate from a few water dawgs to a totally grand affair. There's funds in the kitty. The Concours has maximum haulage capacity (3-12 packs in each saddle bag, a dozen eggs for AM eats, and the tail trunk is still empty. Don't ask). So buying several pounds of sliced deli meats and cheeses locally, and a few loaves of bread for the food fest is a fairly simple act, and well within the capabilities of the Greatest Touring Motorcycle Ever Made (cough). The 'tradition' would continue without much pain. Eat, don't eat. Feed the kitty, or not, I don't care. Those that have the desire could double up on any sodas or bottled water they'd be bringing for themselves. Or not. Thoughts? Rick

Yaa-HOO! Rick

Limited on space in the saddle bags, I'll bring mustards, catsup, knife/fork/spoon for 80?, kraut. May have room to buy plates/napkins on my way through Evansville area, may. Rick

SATA. Pricey, but worth it. May not be a wise investment for a single use though. A gravity feed HVLP can use a smaller tip/needle, or so I've found. Rick

Well, it IS linked on the home page Look into Google analytics. It's a small piece of code you add to pages you want to track. Last I checked, it's free, and a pretty nice display of your website 'hits'. Rick

I'm building in my basement, there's a crude one car wide door for the exit. A bit less than 8' wide and 7' tall. It will be close, but I can do the whole plane, minus the actual strakes, with a little maneuvering out said door. Once I add the strake skins to the spar, the 8' door won't cut it. 1/2 spar width plus 1/2 tub width, and angle it out the opening. Rick

As long as we're... I decided to drive into KLMO (Longmont, CO) for grins. Saw an open hanger with two wing tips sticking up. I aint no dope, that's a canard. Found a fella up near the line watching the planes, asked if the open hangar was his canard. Turned out to be Curt Boyle (strider on the forums), we yacked about his VE for an hour plus before he told me he was building a Cozy too. Then we yacked for an hour about that I could be wrong, but Canard drivers are the friendliest people in aviation. Rick

Take this with a grain of salt... I understand the Aerocanard instructions are identical to the Cozy-IV instruction books. Aerocanard issued PDF's of their instructions to the public domain maybe two years ago. They were on the WIKI, but I think that's since gone off line. I've a few of them, though not the complete set. Other than some of the sketches (real grainy in the shareware), they appear to be identical to my Cozy instructions. Word for word. You can get "extra M" drawings from ACS for 50 clams. They're not plotter prints, rather large laser/Kinkos prints... There are no match lines (of the standard OEM plans) to deal with, so you're templates end up pretty good. In both cases (OEM or extra M drawings), the templates aren't exact. At least in my opinion There's a ton of Cozy's flying, and I don't know how many other canards, all used plans like this. When you add in: copy to template stock error, which side of the line to cut on error, general template error, hot wiring error, add in a dollop of countouring and fill, ... There's a few digitized sketches out there, though not everything you need to build. How/if you adapt these to cutting cores and stuff is way beyond me. I've been following your 'stretch' thread, suppose it could be done. Cozy and Aerocanard both have a middle 'spine' on the floor, it's needed. From what I know, the Velocity doesn't. Also, the back seat length is a bit 'frugal' in the Cozy. Works fine for baggage, small adults, or short trips. It may not be adequate for a co-pilot position. And if the front seat was slid aft too... Head to Rough River next month, take a gander at the variety of canards there, pick some brains... Rick

I don't think 'bummer dude' even comes close. I am glad your found out now instead of 200AGL over the barbed wire fence though, real glad. By the time I'm ready to fly, I anticipate AVgas may be in short supply so I'm planning on an alternate fuel. At the very least, planning on being able to carry alternate fuels. That said, the following is a bit factual, a bit anecdotal, with a smidgen of opinion tossed in. Read: Cover my butt My understanding is any epoxy based coating is not 100% resistant to alcohol. Confirmed by an e-mail from a Pro-Set engineer. Epoxy works fine for a few days, but alcohol in the fuel softens epoxy formulations over time. I have no idea what/how Jeffco is made. Methanol makes some nasty crud if left in the heat. Read: old gas. I don't know about ethanol, other than with Coke over ice. POR-15 is the cats PJ's for sealing up pinhole leaks (rust throughs) in automotive and motorcycle tanks. It's a one part slosh coating. Long term longevity (20 years say) unknown, but it appears intact after five years. Same for a product called Kreem. I'm investigating a top/final coating of vinyl-ester resin in my fuel areas. Either a simple brush/squeegee coat, or used with a thin (2oz?) veil of cloth. It's my understanding some formulation(s) of vinyl-ester are used in underground fuel storage tanks. Compatibility with epoxy/cloth layups unknown (peel strength, delam, scuff to bond, if it'll bond, ...). And there's different formulations of vinyl-ester too, some are made to be chemically resistant. I stumbled across a KR builders website (so you know it's factual ), he'd placed various test coupons in bottles of 10% ETOH, pure premium grade mogas, and 100% ETOH for extended periods. Excellent results, but he didn't really 'stress' test the coupons in solution. Like in the sun, under flex, nicked coating, ... So, I dunnow... Rick

Speaking out of my blowhole... Should drop right in It's detailed in the shareware / public domain Aerocanard PDF's that are floating around. Holler if you can't find any. Rick

Aw geez, why'd you have to go an do that? Surf to dynonavionics, download the PDF cutout template (in color too!) Print, print another just in case. Debate banging on neighbors door for key to unlock his storage so I can see "new gen" on my IP. Naa, dig out M drawings, lay Nex Gen on sheet M-1. It fits. Nice. Must ... Build ... Plane ... First ... Must ... Build ....

#1477 here. Ryan recently purchased #1552. Suspect someone is close to buying #1600 'bout now. Rick

Main spar jig, 3/4 MDF construction, only used ONCE! Two piece 'Back' board dado'd for the three piece 'table'. Table dado'd for the support legs. As an added bonus, will include drywall screws to attach everything together, AT NO CHARGE! Appears to work per plans, will know at first flight Free to good home in Colorado area (Front Range, N of DIA preferred), can deliver if you let me oogle your project. Else located near Estes Park. Recipient must keep it in pristine condition for Curt's use near KLMO when he's ready, and asks. My loss, your gain. Similar jigs selling on ESlay for thou$and$ (of Lira). Call now! Rick

You don't use the jig for any length of time... Trim the foam, weld the bottom on, laminate the inside, weld the pre-glassed forward face on, done. I'd say I used the jig for 15% of the build (finished the last 4 ply UNI layup tonight). Other than the exterior of the end bulkheads (1 ply BID), it should survive all sorts of man handling. Do the spar. If time, do the landing brake. I'm thinking controls may get munched during shipping. Rick

Don't know about the Long, but the Cozy destructions say to precut the interior bulkheads 'in advance' then install during the initial one big layup. If I had mine to do over again, I'd make them a skosh tighter, then use a bar clamp between the 'rear' spar jig and the 'front' urethane foam (with a 1x board skid under the clamp) so they stay tighter when I'm glassing them in. Rick

I didn't think you were that old (ba-da bing) Have your garage door guy replace one of the overhead door panels with one that has 'windows'. Paint to match. If you can't reframe the walls in the garage for a normal window type A/C, might be able to shoe-horn a casement type room A/C in a stud cavity. These typically run 14-15" wide, but taller. If flush with cash, there's some pretty trick 'split' type A/C's. Often sized for just a room or two, like a trail... modular home. Lots of options, just add $ Rick