rickh

<opinion on> Been my experience that maple (hard/soft/sugar) will warp/expand/move more than other woods if it gets wet. Humidity changes affect the wood a bunch, I think Marc Z's prop was maple laminates? Maple takes moderate shock, it's heavy, gluing is not the easiest. For shock loading, ash might be a better choice. Takes high shock loads (baseball bats), glues better, it slightly lighter, not sure of the dimentional changes from humidity but will look </opinion off> Rick

I didn't wanna get in on the bike wars, it's kinda like tin vs fiberglass... ) Toaster? BMW's continue to make strong motors. Early ones were somewhat underpowered, relatively speaking, but the cylinders lasted (last) forever. Not uncommon to tear apart a 100k mile oil head and still see the cross hatch hone marks in the cylinders. Bearings and crank are pretty good too. I have no comment about aft of the engine though... on the newer ones anyway Rick

At times My Concours (1000 cc) has over 150k miles on it, narry a problem. 93HP rear wheel, 108 at the crank... at something like 8000 RPM though. Hi-way cruise at 75MPH is about 4800 RPM. Japanese inline fours typically have the transmission cast as part of the engine. Difficult to adapt a re-drive me thinks. Hardley Riddensom's are a separate engine/tranny (basically), generally need to be punched to get any HP though. The BMW airhead or oil head (horizontally opposed) could be promising, if not for the HP department. Crank is already pointing backwards, thin profile, fair dependability (depending on who you ask), tranny can be removed and a re-drive added if needed, it's already air (or oil) cooled. I don't think a mo-cycle engine would last long in an aircraft though, running basically to the firewall all the time. Rick

ps: The dimensions are in the plans book, not the plans sheets or M drawings. How much? I haven't cut these in the seatback yet, but plan on roughing them out so it's slightly easier (hah!) when I glue/tape the seatback in the tub. Think if I stayed 1/4" inside the line I'd be OK? (leaving the torque tube cutout til later though). Rick

"While holding tab A horizontal, insert pin B into tabs C and D" or: "Maybe I should have used AN hardware..." "I'll just rest here a bit til the flox stiffens up" "Honey, I need another 2ply BID tape" "Clamping the seatback to the sides is a bear..." Rick

Saweeet! Did you change the top profile on F-28 too? I notice two colors there. Rick

Made cookies today, "Aunt Mary's" sugar cookies. Just like a making a 7 ply reinforcement between two sheets of poly, in a way. Did all the usual holiday shapes, tree, angel (two sizes), stocking, star, bell, house, cat, spider, dog bone, ... Dressed them up with sprinkles and candies, with post cure at 400F for 8-10 minutes. I thought a Canard cookie cutter would be so cool, the finished cookie is *supposed* to be pretty white, and minimally decorated. But I don't got one Merry Christmas everyone Rick

http://mcmaster.com/ They have a bunch of 'weird' stuff. Prices aren't the best, but it's one stop shopping. As to shipping down under BUT! I've an order on my wish list there. Let me know what P/N you want, send me an address for OZ, and maybe it'll be there by the new year. Rick

No, I'm building a plane! It *does* take up a bunch of 'available' time Rick

I was doing pretty good until #2 Happy B-day

Generally (GENERALLY!) a forum is a chat venue. If you want/need a domain name to host a pile of files, bunch of pix, hi-res videos, there's a bunch on the forum that can assist. Often, the cost is minimal. Rick

Phil: Five minutes, it's gum stage. 5 minute set, 15 minutes to handle, 1 hour to fully cure (though I doubt this, just because) On topic: I don't stir for 5 minutes Rick

Update. Apparently 5 minute epoxy cure in five minutes. . . once your past waiting for your first first part to cure (A watched pot ...) Rick

80% in the corners and sides, 20% in the middle. On a lighter note, UPS delivered a box from Wicks tonight . Mostly what I ordered So I cuts up two sheets of 18lb lastafoam, make me pieces for F-22 and the doubler. 5-Minute epoxy takes *forever* to harden, it's been almost four minutes since I glued the pieces together (don't they make faster glue ). I'm using a matchstick to mix with BTW, is that important? Rick

(cough..) I was gonna mention I use popsicle sticks... but thought otherwise Still can't imagine squaring it off first... Rick

For those that have used different brands, have you noticed a difference in miscibility? I use West in parts I make, and Pro-Set in my limited aero parts. Both blend well. I'd be comfortable at 30 seconds... unless I was mixing a gallon! Rick

Worldcom, GM, and Nortel gains are my income Seriously, after RR, you must know I'll be giving you some bidness, just not all. Tip for all: long on RAD and GPS, short FXI. Rick

:confused: Where did you read I wasn't? I've seen some of their stuff at RR, top notch. But what if I have my own facilities? Rick

1) Is dis sumpin I'll need sooner/later? 2) (http://groveaircraft.com/49-1adwg.html for reference) Similar bearing setup on M/C wheels. Though one side is captive w/ a snap ring, and there *is* a spacer between the ball bearings. The other bearing will float (to a point). So as I read the Cozy nose wheel, outer spacers are used, and the axle nuts are clamped down guddentite. An inner spacer would then be required (as I read all this). Width not too terribly critical (= to or wider than the cast in stops though), parallelism is. Unless I missed the boat. 3) See #1 (edit) 4) Scratch all that, the Wicks catalog shows TAPERED roller bearings... what a pain :-/ (hmm, wonder if a ball bearing will cross reference...) (end edit) Rick

I've the Divinicel "H" grade tech manual, no mention of colors, nada. Like Mr. Schubert said, the Cozy uses 3/8" H-45 for the strake skins and inner bulkheads. Try www.fiberglasssupply.com ? They cater to the hydraulic crowd (surf boards), but their website lists several thicknesses and grades of Divinicel. No connection, but I have ordered other stuff from them in the past. Rick

Please consider that a kerosene (fuel oil, ...) heater will spew unburned hydrocarbons out, they'll settle on everything. Foam might not be a big deal, but secondary bonding to cured fiberglass surfaces... Rick

A guy from UK (motorcyclist, go figure) called me a wanker recently, I said "no, Lycosaurus; injected." Don't think anybody means ill will; sometimes the distance... Rick

I'm thinking movie rights Speaking from non experience: Flox. This works for drywall mud et al... Spread a thin layer on your 'work board', 1mm thick or so. Take your putty knife (squeege?) and barely take a swipe off the board. It's a jab and stroke motion. With skill, it'll be a bead just sticking to the edge of the putty knife. Transfer to the foam. (Iz we supposed to paint the corner w/ epoxy before floxing?) Table protection. Umm, swipe the surface of the table with a damp cloth, lay the plastic down before it dries. It'll stick real well. But if the plastic is pretty thin, may be a royal pain getting the wrinkles out. Can you get 2mil polyethylene there? Works much better, drips will pop off for a few uses. Micro. I've understood you should get as close to the edge(s) as possible, not necessarily all the way there. Zero out a board on your scale, toss the cloth on it. 100-120% of that weight for mixed epoxy. YMMV, FWIW, don't forget to floss... Rick

Well, the tummy is sensitive skin, but... I'd keep an eye out for allergic reactions down the road. A Tyvek coverall may be helpful. Though not totally vapor proof, it should keep the drips off your clothes. Rick

No doubt. I was the ONLY one who brought kraut, and nobody ate it! (let's just forget I was off flying during lunch, and the pickled cabbage was hidden in ma mo-cycle; K?) It's not volunteer if you (we) get paid for it. But that's me. With the # of people chowing down, perhaps dividing volunteers into the basic food groups might be an advantage? A salads Head of Staff, main course Head of Staff, condiments, drinks, lobsta w/ clarified butter, ... I'll bring kraut Rick