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rickh

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Everything posted by rickh

  1. rickh
    I couldn't figure out the "chapter kits", nor the wood/fiberglass/metal "kits" either. The first few chapters are basically glass, epoxy, and foam. Find/order a full roll of BID and full roll of UNI, and a pile of foam. As you progress, order all the nuts/bolts/gizmos you'll need for the next ?? chapters, plus a few extras just in case. Rick
  2. rickh
    Blue is a popular trim color. Apparently the attachment (embedded) wasn't saved. Will try again...
  3. rickh
    Sweet plane! The owner 'sings in a Trio'? On the way back from RR (think WX delays) the ramp marshals at Springfield (Branson), MO parked my rental Piper next to a Long that looks like that one. He's a heck of a neat guy. Rick
  4. rickh
    Looks like a K&N filter with a spiffy chrome skull cap. Poke around http://www.knfilters.com/universal/universal.htmI bet you'll find an exact replecement... minus the chrome thingy.
  5. rickh
    This Saturday, 30-Jan, from 10:00 AM until?? The "Usual Suspects", are coming up to Casa Hall to help me cut one set of wing cores. Both wings if we have time. Curt will probably have the latest aero apps for the IPhone/Touch to demonstrate (X-Plane?). Anybody that has an interest in a Cozy MKIV, hot wiring, hangar flying, ... is more then welcome to pop in. I'll make something easy for lunch, and I've a modest assortment of drinks in the fridge. Casa Hall is 12 miles outside Lyons on CO-7, and S. of Estes Park. Nearest airport is KLMO, nearest big city is Denver. Email (rickh ATconcours DOTorg), or call (three oh three 747 twenty forty-two). No cell service up here, suits and ties are for city folk. Rick
  6. rickh
    Jeff: This may be useless as I'm building a Cozy, but... LB-18 is a hunk of .063 aluminum angle (not bent from sheet), legs at .75" and 1.125" and 2" long. #10 holes drilled three places, the 'axle' hole .625" up. The other pieces are the handle? If so, check the pitch/roll trim chapter. That's where they're dimensioned for the Cozy. Rick
  7. rickh

    Wood Parts

    rickh replied to Fernando's topic in Materials

    Do you have mahogany (Swietenia macrophylla)? That should work for the longerons. Is there a boat builder near? They often have high quality plywood. The plywood needs to be water proof glue, take heat (~100C), free of internal voids (knot holes), and relatively strong. Baltic Birch may be an option too, it's typically imported from Finland and Russia. Rick
  8. rickh
    http://mrproducts.com/ I have not dealt with them directly, but they are a product one of my suppliers carries. Rick
  9. rickh
    I can't speak for the two place canards, but leveling the spar and two wings is a whole lot less 'space intensive' than leveling the fuse, spar, and two wings on a Cozy. Once (when) I match drill everything, I only have to worry (if at all) about keeping leveling boards on the spar. Besides, a pix of your spar and wings being leveled and match drilled in your kitchen/dining/living room is always a conversation starter Rick
  10. rickh
    Attached photo may help. H-100 on top, 18lb Last-a-foam on the bottom. Both appear similar, the label on the bottom one is a giveaway though The H-100 measures .260" thick, Last-a-foam .201" In my experience, H-100 is very flexible, you could bend it around a large coffee can. Last-a-Foam would break. Rick
  11. rickh
    My solution was to cut two 'wings' into the wood instead of the plans full chamfer then flox fill, see attached. I trialed by attaching a nut a couple of times on a scrap piece of wood, with just finger pressure holding the screw on, no slippage. Ask me if it worked in a few years... If me, I wouldn't use surface mount (surface mount clic-bond) due to potential 'under hood' temps and potential softening of the attachment glue. Rick
  12. rickh

    Wheel bolts

    rickh replied to Phil Kriley's topic in Chapter 13

    Adding to what Rich says, I noticed I only have one thread showing when drawn up 'hand' tight. May be better to use an AN4-22 with a washer under the head to get two full threads, but I have to think on how many of these are flying with the 'factory' configuration. Attached pix of mine FWIW, never installed. Wicks invoice says it's a Gerdes. Rick
  13. rickh
    Jeezus dood, pace yerself! . . . . (1/2 speed here ) Rick
  14. rickh
    Bake at 225 F for 5-7 minutes, form. Picture shows a quarter for reference, and my female mold (marble mortar), the final part made from a scrap of 3/8" H-45. Also attached is a Divinycell product PDF. Application might include pre-forming foam for Cozy-Girl strakes, radomes, nose cones, ... Rick Diab.HManM.pdf
  15. rickh
    I'd taper two edges, on one side, of the hardpoints so they end up the same thickness as the foam. Flox the hardpoint into the foam so that one foam/hardpoint face is flat, this will be the surface that faces into the L/G well. The flat face will be an asset when you add these bulkheads to the tub, as well as when you add the LG (think L/G tab width). Rick
  16. rickh

    Wheel bolts

    rickh replied to Phil Kriley's topic in Chapter 13

    Phil: I got mine from Wicks on my way back from RR a year and a half ago. May be the same as yours, may not. AN4-21 through bolt (no washer under the head), washer, then an AN363-428 hi-temp all metal lock nut. Rick
  17. rickh
    I did a crude cost breakdown just before I got my Cozy plans. H-45 $372.74 Polystyrene (wings, etc.) $509.78 Foam ($an$ $hipping fee) was pretty cheap in the grand scheme of things. Though it may pay to shop around. Rick
  18. rickh
    ??? Where are you getting the prices? Local supplier? Seat 'o the pants, H-45 is about 1/2 the price of H-100 at both Wicks and ACS. Shipping may be a deal breaker, but if you have them slit the sheets to fit into a 24x48" box, it won't be UPS oversize.
  19. rickh
    5-Star "Maxx Fill 2K" High Build Primer Surfacer is but one, I know Dupont and PPG have similar. *I'd* shy away from single stage primer-fillers, but that's just me. Disclaimer: I haven't painted ma plane yet, but the two part (2k) primer fillers are 'da bomb at filling pin holes on smaller epoxy-fiberglass parts I make. First coat is reduced, to fill the holes rather than bridging them, the last two coats are more/less 'full' strength. Then sand with 400-600 grit to level, squirt the top coats, done deal. Rick
  20. rickh
    Steve: I did a couple of calcs of the water lines and level lines, taken from the level lines on the wing templates, and water lines on the wing jigs. Take them for what their worth. LE is WL 17.4" all along. TE at BL 159 should be approx 17.4" + .75" TE at BL 43.41 should be approx 17.4" + .2" Rick
  21. rickh
    Am sure we've all used it at one time or another. I look at the 'fuzzy' 10 year old windscreen on ma mo'cycle, then think about the bux and time I'll be putting into my canopy... Rick
  22. rickh
    http://www.ridoutplastics.com/plexiglas-chemical-resistance.html http://microadvances.com/chemicals1.htm Turpentine isn't exactly recommended for either plastic (not knowing for sure what the canopies are blown from). YMMV, Rick ps: Forgot to add, you might try an "occlusive dressing". Lay some strips of dampened material (water with a mild detergent (Dreft, Woolite, down jacket soap, ...), then overlay that with plastic film so it stays damp. See if the residue has softened after a day.
  23. rickh
    You're more than welcomed. I'm pretty rustic up here, compared to mid-town Manhattan anyway. May be able to swing you and the missus a local cabin for a day/two at low/no cost. Though it's a bit more rustic X-Plane is fairly realistic, from what I know. Many (all?) of the canards are done by Curt (see vigilanceaero.com above). Rick
  24. rickh
    Yer way ahead of me in this department, yes I've thought of it. If the plans duct blows air from the cowling, a heat exchanger in the 'well' should work peachy too. Don't forget to allow for make-up air.
  25. rickh
    (So I guess it's cold and blowing snow up there too, huh?) Fans are great for moving 'free' air, but suk in a ducted application. You may be able to stack two fans, one on top of the other, to marginally improve airflow, but airflow through an oil cooler (or any manner of ducting) will be far better with a blower, aka squirrel-cage. There are light weight 12v blowers, search Mouser.com or digi-key.com, but they're not 'frugal'. Oh, seat of the pants, 100-150 CFM at .25 WC should be adequate for front seat. Depends on the heat load of any 'radiator' you install too. Rick

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