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rickh

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Flying Information

  • Flying Status
    PPL-SEL

Personal Information

  • Real Name (Public)
    Rick Hall
  • Location (Public)
    Colorado, USA, Earth
  • Occupation
    Burden to Society

Project/Build Information

  • Plane Type
    Cozy Mark IV
  • Plans/Kit Number
    1477
  • Chapter/Area
    20

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://cozy.zggtr.org/

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  1. I couldn't figure out the "chapter kits", nor the wood/fiberglass/metal "kits" either. The first few chapters are basically glass, epoxy, and foam. Find/order a full roll of BID and full roll of UNI, and a pile of foam. As you progress, order all the nuts/bolts/gizmos you'll need for the next ?? chapters, plus a few extras just in case. Rick
  2. Blue is a popular trim color. Apparently the attachment (embedded) wasn't saved. Will try again...
  3. Sweet plane! The owner 'sings in a Trio'? On the way back from RR (think WX delays) the ramp marshals at Springfield (Branson), MO parked my rental Piper next to a Long that looks like that one. He's a heck of a neat guy. Rick
  4. Looks like a K&N filter with a spiffy chrome skull cap. Poke around http://www.knfilters.com/universal/universal.htmI bet you'll find an exact replecement... minus the chrome thingy.
  5. This Saturday, 30-Jan, from 10:00 AM until?? The "Usual Suspects", are coming up to Casa Hall to help me cut one set of wing cores. Both wings if we have time. Curt will probably have the latest aero apps for the IPhone/Touch to demonstrate (X-Plane?). Anybody that has an interest in a Cozy MKIV, hot wiring, hangar flying, ... is more then welcome to pop in. I'll make something easy for lunch, and I've a modest assortment of drinks in the fridge. Casa Hall is 12 miles outside Lyons on CO-7, and S. of Estes Park. Nearest airport is KLMO, nearest big city is Denver. Email (rickh ATconcours DOTorg), or call (three oh three 747 twenty forty-two). No cell service up here, suits and ties are for city folk. Rick
  6. Jeff: This may be useless as I'm building a Cozy, but... LB-18 is a hunk of .063 aluminum angle (not bent from sheet), legs at .75" and 1.125" and 2" long. #10 holes drilled three places, the 'axle' hole .625" up. The other pieces are the handle? If so, check the pitch/roll trim chapter. That's where they're dimensioned for the Cozy. Rick
  7. rickh

    Wood Parts

    Do you have mahogany (Swietenia macrophylla)? That should work for the longerons. Is there a boat builder near? They often have high quality plywood. The plywood needs to be water proof glue, take heat (~100C), free of internal voids (knot holes), and relatively strong. Baltic Birch may be an option too, it's typically imported from Finland and Russia. Rick
  8. http://mrproducts.com/ I have not dealt with them directly, but they are a product one of my suppliers carries. Rick
  9. I can't speak for the two place canards, but leveling the spar and two wings is a whole lot less 'space intensive' than leveling the fuse, spar, and two wings on a Cozy. Once (when) I match drill everything, I only have to worry (if at all) about keeping leveling boards on the spar. Besides, a pix of your spar and wings being leveled and match drilled in your kitchen/dining/living room is always a conversation starter Rick
  10. Attached photo may help. H-100 on top, 18lb Last-a-foam on the bottom. Both appear similar, the label on the bottom one is a giveaway though The H-100 measures .260" thick, Last-a-foam .201" In my experience, H-100 is very flexible, you could bend it around a large coffee can. Last-a-Foam would break. Rick
  11. My solution was to cut two 'wings' into the wood instead of the plans full chamfer then flox fill, see attached. I trialed by attaching a nut a couple of times on a scrap piece of wood, with just finger pressure holding the screw on, no slippage. Ask me if it worked in a few years... If me, I wouldn't use surface mount (surface mount clic-bond) due to potential 'under hood' temps and potential softening of the attachment glue. Rick
  12. Adding to what Rich says, I noticed I only have one thread showing when drawn up 'hand' tight. May be better to use an AN4-22 with a washer under the head to get two full threads, but I have to think on how many of these are flying with the 'factory' configuration. Attached pix of mine FWIW, never installed. Wicks invoice says it's a Gerdes. Rick
  13. Jeezus dood, pace yerself! . . . . (1/2 speed here ) Rick
  14. Bake at 225 F for 5-7 minutes, form. Picture shows a quarter for reference, and my female mold (marble mortar), the final part made from a scrap of 3/8" H-45. Also attached is a Divinycell product PDF. Application might include pre-forming foam for Cozy-Girl strakes, radomes, nose cones, ... Rick Diab.HManM.pdf
  15. I'd taper two edges, on one side, of the hardpoints so they end up the same thickness as the foam. Flox the hardpoint into the foam so that one foam/hardpoint face is flat, this will be the surface that faces into the L/G well. The flat face will be an asset when you add these bulkheads to the tub, as well as when you add the LG (think L/G tab width). Rick
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