rickh

I'm not able to make it this year. Daddy needs new skins for the motor scooter, and they weren't included in my stimulus plan (mandatory political comment now out of the way ) I have good information they'll be some peachy keeno door prizes to be awarded at the "Sam and Dave show" on Saturday evening, so if you're sitting on the fence about walking/driving/flying to see the canards at Falls of Rough... New batch of sauerkraut fermenting in the basement, should be table-ready in about a year. Y'all post some pix when ya git home, Rick PS: If anyone is flying by (and back to) KLMO/DEN, with an extra seat... I pack light, and have some spare cash in the till...

Odd Two BBG's here. I gotta get down your way [and poke/prod your project] one of these days... T: Crashes don't bode well for GA, I hope it wasn't a fatal incident. Rick

KLMO -> 2i3. 883 nm by air. 2 days, 1 hour, 4 minutes by motorcycle KLMO -> KFCM (mum/sis) 588 nm. 1 day, five hours, 20 minutes by motorcycle. KLMO -> KASE (Aspen) 96 nm. 4 hours, 7 minutes by truck (motorcycle doesn't have snow chains) Rick

It's at the top of the page (8?), two lines, if you're building a Cozy. Ooger out .4", micro fillet, two BID. Rick

It's a State park, alkie-haul is verboten. Not to mention it's a dry country. But if you decant said liquid into a paper/plastic cup, who's to know? I'd planned on a rain check this year, economy and all. Maybe I can haul a selection of local barley-pop out that way. Not as good as a Tooheys or Redoak though Rick

Marc Zeitlin has (or should have) a PDF reprint of an article Jim wrote, you'll need to poke around though (as I can remember the direct link). www.cozybuilders.org/ I used the following lengths for each leg of the copper foil tape. NAV: 22.8", Marker: 34.3", GS: 7.5". One NAV and the MB went in my tub, the coax poked though 10" forward of the IP, real near the triangular wood longeron. Toroids can be purchased from Wicks or Aircraft Spruce. I recall ACS calls them for use in a Quickie antenna kit. Copper foil is readily available, Google it. It's popular for 'fake' leaded glass windows. If you need some right quick, drop me yer address. I have about 80' left on my roll. I found coax (RG-400) cheapest at steinair.com, good people there too. YMMV, floss after meals, ... Rick

1) The canopy is now a Koi pond in someones back yard. 2) The tub was modified to become a planter. 3) If you look at the White Knight real close.... 4) Someone sprinkled pixie dust on it, turned it into a Berkut. Rick

Got an email from Tom today, http://ttcse.com/cozylinks/ if you don't have it bookmarked. Two new (to me anyway) builders in the Longmont/Boulder area also. Tom sez: Cozylinks updates on July 4, 2009 Charles Furnweger ch10, thanks for the word & trigger to go hunt down other updates. Andrew Bennett ch6 Bernard Siu ch21 Brian Stone ch5 Kevin Dove Revsed URL, added ch11,12 Sally/LN-US removed dead links John Basol ch15,16,17,22,23,24,25 Jon Dembs ch26 Matt Stecher ch7 Phil Silvester ch20,22,25 Remi Khu ch19, 24 Dan Balderston ch12,13 Dave-n-Lynn Barnes ch17,18,19 Ron Springer ch18 Tim Andres ch25 Sorry about guys like Steve Harmon and Chris Van Hoof who have non-conformist web layouts. Rick

I dunnow, the numbers started falling when I showed up three years ago. Rick

Assuming they're aluminum, and of a suitable composition, yes. Speaking as a motorcyclist, who knows "chrome won't get ya home", try these buffing products. All should be available an Manny, Moe, and Jack. Never-Dull (blue can, cotton wadding), Flitz (sometimes in a tube), and/or semichrome polish (not certain of my spelling). Doubt you'll get a chrome like shine with any of them, but they do brighten aluminum up nicely. I like Never-Dull. Rick

Two things come to mind, left brake, right brake. You need them to steer. Mo'cycle front hand brake master cylinders (with levers) set up as knee paddles? Mo'cycle rear brake is usually a remote reservoir setup, or can be, at least on my 'Connie'. This might be a better choice? Rick

Gimp: Hinge the pedals from the top, rather than on the floor, put a piece of slippery stuff on the floor at your heel. I don't know of anybody that has done a 'straight line' travel pedal, all have been an 'arc' of some sort. I've a few pix of top mounted pedals (mostly Cozy stuff though), holler and I'll attach one/two. You might go to www.ttcse.com/cozylinks/ click the Chapter 13 link, and poke around the websites listed. Oh, am sure you can modify an existing aircraft, just takes time (and $$) Rick

As far as composite construction goes, the ever popular copper foil tape embedded in the glass is the cat's meow. Simple, cheap, works quite well. You can get a 'kit' that contains enough foil and torroids to do all the antennas you'd typically need for a few bucks. http://www.rst-engr.com/ is one source. Old coax (RG-??), that was state of the art at the time, has been phased out and replaced with better products like RF400, LMR series, ... ie: they use teflon or tefzel for insulation/abrasion material now. I would say pass on the bagged kit you mention, but I haven't seen the kit either Rick

I'm gonna step out on a limb here, but does the package contain a length of copper foil self-stick tape, a length of coax, and some toroid beads (powdered metal donuts)? Standard antennas for composite construction, and relatively inexpensive. What do the instruction say? Rick

Hey, welcome I'm just up the hill from you near Estes. A Cozy builder though. I know a handful of fliers/builders at KLMO. Curt Boyll (VE pilot, Cozy builder), 'Ron' (Cozy builder), Ion Huss (LE pilot, previous EAA tech), and another name that slips me (LE rebuild). I know there are canards in Greeley and Ft. Love, but I don't have contact details. Don't forget Rob Martinson (Denver, VE), and freeflightcomposites.com (Burrall Sanders) near the Springs. Rick

Well, I ain't a Rotor Head, I'm going with fins. I live at 7400', water boils at ~190 degrees up here (ask me how to make a "three minute" egg). Combine this with Lynn's pressure/elevation data point, draw a line (straight?) ... Factor in the chart on the back of the Prestone jug, and... Rick

I'll be here. Email me from my profile or website. I'd thought about a tandem also (I have no waife or kyds), the Cozy won out with it's huge trunk. Disadvantages, she needs long paved runways. And time to build her Rick

I think we should hook up, I'm a few miles SSE of Estes Park. I have a wood heater in my shop (aka basement) that I fire up for layups. generally the basement stays at 55 if I don't heat it. Cool down takes in the neighborhood of 24-36 hours. By then the epoxy is fairly well cured. If not, I have a drink before retiring, then toss another log on when I get up to pee at oh-dark-thirty. Not ideal, but it works for me. YMMV. Couple of builders at KLMO I could put you in touch with, holler. Rick

'Lectric Bob is a fountain of knowledge. If you can buy his book in the EU, by all means do. Not intending to patronize... A fuse or circuit breaker is designed to protect the wire, not the end device. The fuse/breaker is sized to the wire, and the wire is sized to the amp load of the end device. Generally, a 22ga wire gets a 5 amp fuse/breaker maximum, an 18ga wire gets a 10 amp fuse/breaker maximum. The fuse/breaker should be as close to the battery (or source of power) as possible. If the wire (or end device) shorts out, the fuse/breaker will blow, preventing a cabin full of smoke and flames. Simplistically Rick

"me too" I'm waiting on the nose and main gear ($$ issues) too. I did the main spar last summer, and the canard and elevators this winter. Both are dangling from the ceiling like ornaments, haven't been 'attached' to the tub in any way. Next project(s) will be the wings, then the winglets (left detached), then start on the canopy. For me, once I screw the main spar to the tub, I'll need to be at the hanger as the unit won't make it out the Assembly Factory door (read: my basement). I can match drill the wings to the spar (in my living room?) before I weld the spar to the fuse. Not doing the nose and main gear isn't slowing my build down... right now. Wings, main spar, winglets, start on the canopy. This should be a year/two of unit work, then maybe the economy will be better. Don't forget you can make (or buy) some of the control bits too. Rick

http://cozy.concours.org/chap4/ribs.jpg http://www.cozy.concours.org/chap4/ I raised my IP off the table with several blocks, then trimmed the BID flush with the aft face of the IP once cured. One forward edge of the H-100 has a 1/4" radius. The picture shows weights (boards) holding the BID in contact at the 'square' edge. The finished glassed intersection of the ribs and the lower electrical channel doesn't look nice. The 'lip' on the electrical channels is a chore. Lay two strips of BID on a piece of plastic. Dribble epoxy on the strips and stipple. Cover with another strip of plastic and squeege (not too hard). Use a metal meter stick and sharp knife to trim a straight line. Rick

It's possible, I get everywhere on ma motor scooter. But, I'm still building, I'm near Estes Park, and ma scooter is still winterized Rick

Right, we all have bills due near the 1st Buy the plans. It's an investment, they can always be resold. Buy the plans. Rick

CU spam filter may have nabbed it. Since it came from the forum, with forum boilerplate attached... It can happen. Between Lyons and Allens Park on CO-7 Three zero three, seven 47, twenty forty two. My email is at the bottom of my web pages too, http://cozy.concours.org/ My tub is complete, and dangling 10' in the air from my neighbors rafters. Main spar and canard/elevators are dangling from my rafters. The latter are fairly easy to get on the table for a close up look-see. Rick

Why didn't I know that was coming? Sorry Marc, I owe you one Rick