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About schmeddz

  • Rank
  • Birthday 10/10/1962

Flying Information

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  • Location (Public)
    Jackson MS
  • Occupation

Project/Build Information

  • Plane
  • Plane (Other/Details)
    N7FC 0320, HUD, Dynon D-10A
  1. Simple and stout looking. That looks like it would be really hard to bend under G's! Looks nice and wait 'til you start installing stuff on the engine and all that extra room makes a difference.
  2. I said it was an example of a spar, not the real thing! I would hope that was clear. Like flying into thunderstorms, Don't do it! Nor did I recommend doing it to the spar you are building! It was a strength sample. Burt Rutan and Mike Melville did that jumping up and down thing on the same type of example vs an aluminum spar in the building video's they did back in the seventies. DON"T HIT YOUR REAL SPAR WITH A HAMMER! It's called destructive testing y'know?
  3. I bought my current long-ez flying (with engine) for a third less than the price of an RV-8 fast build kit. (What do engine and instruments cost again?) It needed work sure, but I was flying in 6 months. It's a better option if you can't afford an expensive outlay of 10k at a time. No I can't use grass strips. I got over it! 170 mph on 20K. ZAP!
  4. I did a two foot long canard practice layup in the Alexander Aeroplane composite workshop back in the 90's. You could smack the spar cap layup with a hammer and not break it! Can't do that with an RV spar!
  5. schmeddz


    I don't know, but you can say that again. 2X even.
  6. And... if you look at that site for the corvair... Why do they have to extensively modify the engine parts to make it work for an airplane??? Because, quite simply, IT WAS NEVER DESIGNED FOR AN AIRPLANE!!! What was this thread about? Legroom? Back in 2008? Oh...! Is the 5'10" girlfriend still around? I've been thru two girls since then! One of them came around twice.
  7. Bad Idea. Start over from scratch. Chalk it up as a valuable learning experience. Better than going OH S***!!! in a few years on a collapsed landing gear and finding out the part failed because you were trying to save a bad part and a few bucks! Remember, experience comes at a price. If you wait more than a day the heatgun will not work for you as the resin sets up. Besides, that is one of the tiniest parts you will ever layup. If you're thinking of trying to save it, you are thinking way too cheaply! I used more fiberglass and foam and resin to make the bookend that was a practice layup in the Long-Ez plans! I have spent hundreds (if not thousands) on pieces I never felt good about using and never did. (I was doing other stuff, I even built a fiberglass canoe mold I never even used.) Cost of doing business, and education.
  8. schmeddz

    O-235 vs O-320

    I've had one of each. 0-235 is Ok. 0-320... WAY BETTER! Most of the 0-235's are almost as heavy as the 320's, so the extra HP makes a big difference with little wheight penalty.
  9. You NEVER want to put a structual fiberglass layer over micro. The possiblity of delamination and failure is too great. The manuals are clear on this. The less sanding you do into the top layer of glass the better. It's almost better to not sand down into the top layer at all. That IS the structure.
  10. Sounds like you will have to register yourself as the builder. If it was deregistered and you got it as a new project you will have to go thru the whole process. Finish building it and you can go thru all the steps to become the official 'builder'. FISDO and DAR can tell you more of what you need to know to make the FAA happy. I was concerned about the comment in the first post about the epoxy being "Dried out" I'm assuming this to mean that there was probably a lot of cracking in the paint and micro layers. There were not many posts about that statement. If the epoxy and glass layers are cracking or delaminating, the structure will have to be completely replaced. One trick is to wet it down with water and you will actually be able to look into some of the layers of glass/epoxy. This won't work with spars and internal structures of course. Good luck tracking any history and yess....... keep building!
  11. I developed the allergy to the epoxy's and I use mine a lot. I wished I had used it more when I was building a lot. I may pay a price later in life! I also use a hood and sometimes wear a full tyvek suit when actually painting. You can't be too careful.
  12. Here's a link to a similar article. http://www.sonerai.net/CMS/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=56&Itemid=1 A pool hose can also be found at the hardware/lumber stores. Mines a commercial HVLP system. The pool hose would work better for the bathroom fan to move a larger mass of air. I use fresh air for sanding and all other things where there's lots of dust and nasty stuff in the air.
  13. I saw an article in Kitplanes about 10-13 years ago. Central States newsletter had one article also. The guy used a bathroom vent fan and all the hoses and duct tape used were from home supply stores. He built the whole thing for under 50 bucks. I just replaced my old mask on my machine with a respirator from AO Safety for 20 bucks. A garden hose with quick disconnects that won't collapse as your moving around the project works well. I think food grade clear hose from the hardware store works well.
  14. I fought in the cold war!!! Kept the world safe for democracy. My brother fought in Panama and got a commission and spent a year in Afganistan babysitting combat engineers digging up minefields. Kudo's to all vets.
  15. Kewl. Maybe I'll have a flying airplane by then. But it's an easy drive from Jackson if not... It would be nice to have a southern canard fly in.

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