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rickh

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Everything posted by rickh

  1. rickh
    Steve: I'm near Estes Park (KLMO or KFNL), can put you up if a flight down here is in your picture. Current METAR is frigid. Several builders/fliers in this area. www.freeflightcomposites.com and vigilanceaero.com may give you a couple of leads. Might also check: http://www.unc.edu/~gorczows/cozy.html and see if anything pans out. I don't know of any in your area, but there have to be some. Rick
  2. rickh
    Cool/cold ambient. Plastic film 'lo vac' and excessive squeegeeing (any indication of glaze from the plastic or peel-ply?) 'Fast' hardener and/or working the epoxy during the gel stage. To the blotches disappear after an alcohol wipe? Rick
  3. rickh
    I think xp-360.com had one advertised, maybe it was a 400? Regardless, they're bust. Aerosportpower.com has had one on their website for quite some time. <opinion> I've looked at them, but figured they were a punched out 360 using a standard 360 crank. Probably unfounded, I worry about the additional stress on the crank.</opinion> Rick
  4. rickh
    Dood, CA is the WORST place to store an aero engine. What you need is some high altitude place, like Colorado. Tell ya what I'll do for ya, and at no charge! .... I know you Aero guys do things a bit differently, but keep is dry (rain, humidity, moisture), and the internals oil misted (Marvel Mystery Oil, or ???), and it'll stay in a ready to run state for a long time. Swop out the sump oil annually for a warm fuzzy. Rick
  5. rickh
    On a clear day I can see the sun, and that's 93 million miles away. I'm always looking (snooping?) for stuff to make my build easier Rick
  6. rickh
    STeve: What are those 'lift eyes' at the aft end of the top longeron for? Rick
  7. rickh

    PU/PVC vs PS Foam

    rickh replied to wolf.'s topic in Materials

    Thanks a ton Len, very interesting read. Rick
  8. rickh
    What Jerry and STeve said. One advantage to a higher Tg might be that you could paint your plane in something other than white? Attached PDF, it's somewhat old, may be an interesting read. Rick 2006_06_Hunter_Resin_Price_Table.pdf
  9. rickh
    Not hardly, that's my title Rick
  10. rickh
    Cleanliness is always next to Gawd awfulness? Not knowing what the contaminate is, I like to 'wash' with solvent-prep (clean mineral spirits often works in a pinch), wipe off with a new/clean rag before it dries. Repeat if you're flush with cash and solvent. Then a wash of detergent/water (Dawn is a favorite), then two (or more) rinses with clean water. Needless to say, do not use acetone, or any aromatic ketone. Looking at how the last rinse 'sheets' on the surface may give an indication of any remaining crud. Pinholes with crud still in them may upset the sheeting action.
  11. rickh
    What Steve sez, especially a repaint of something that was waxed previously I would look at my shop rags though, the ones used for final wipe-down. If they were used to previously wax the family sedan... Silicone is fairly hard to remove. Few things to think about/check: Good air filter on the air line? Has the air hose always passed clean air from a filter? Did someone lube the locks/hinges in the shop with *aerosol* silicone recently? Contaminate in your final wash/rinse water? Would oil from your fingers be a cause? Did the pin holes appear almost immediately after squirting the paint, or was it after an hour/two? Fish-eye is almost immediate. Rick
  12. rickh
    Seat of the pants, sounds like solvent pops. Too short of 'flash' time, forced drying (surface dries first trapping solvents below), excessive application per coat (piling it on), reducer incompatibility... Attachments: Click the "Manage Attachments" button in the "Additional Options" pane, browse to the file on your local confuzer, hi lite it, then click upload. When it's done, click 'close window'. There is a file size limit on this server, 500k for jpg files. If too large, I'm not sure if the server will raise an error back to you. On my forum, size limit is my typical tech support email. Rick
  13. rickh

    PU/PVC vs PS Foam

    rickh replied to wolf.'s topic in Materials

    Len: Would you care to elaborate on "cold soak"? Would a recently built canard parked outside in Frostbite Falls, MN in Feb. have 'issues'? Rick
  14. rickh
    Weeellll... MGS 285 product sheet says 100:40 +/- 2. I guess if you're at ease with your cardiologist saying "that's close enough..." PDF attached, it may not be the most current. Rick MGSEpoxy285.pdf
  15. rickh
    Not long in the thread department, but it does have a swivel on the end. I'll keep my eyes peeled for something else. Rick Edit: Bingo, see attached. It's a Hella 90mm headlamp capsule light adjuster. www.rallylights.com and poke around. Or send me an address, this one is gathering dust...
  16. rickh
    "Swivel pad clamp" as close as I can find. Enco link Rick
  17. rickh
    I've been looking at Luxeon Rebels recently. Basically one of these would work for each position light. You need 40 Candela from 0-10 degrees forward, 30 Candela 10-20 degrees, 5 Candela 20-110 degrees. Up/down illumination is a bit less stringent. Basically 30 degrees up/down. The strobe light output is a Calculus problem ("Math is hard Ken" ), suffice it to say it is average illumination, not peak. If it were peak, Whelen/Grimes/Nova would be all over LED's. Rick ps: If you'd like my first 'trial' programmable strobe flasher to dink with, PM me an address. It's just gathering dust here.
  18. rickh
    The numbers in the article are substantially correct, but there's a lot of data missing or left out. 400 lumens is correct, but it's effective lumens. If the LED is 'flashed' 10% of the time, you need a 4,000 lumen strobe. minimum. 30 degree up/down from horizontal was OK on planes certified from 1971-1977, now it's 70 degrees up/down from horizontal. LED's do not emit their light isotropically, there's typically a 50% drop off at 30-45 degrees from perpendicular. FAR 23.1389, FAR 91.205© (position lights); FAR 23.1397, FAR 23.1401 (anti-collision /strobe). Don't forget the difference between a strobe and/or a beacon. If you're gonna be seen.... Rick
  19. rickh
    I'm using a Salter electronic kitchen scale I got for Christmas a few years back. It'll weigh in English or Metric. 1/8 oz and 1 gram resolution, weighs to about 10 lbs or so. I don't trust it for 5 gram batches. My smallest batch is probably 10 grams. With pro-Set, that's 10 grams of epoxy, continue to 13 grams with hardener. Most layups are 100gm of resin using the ever popular (and cheap) 7oz plastic 'party' cups. A nickle weighs 5 grams, you can be creative in checking accuracy and repeatability of whatever scale you use. Good to see you building Rick
  20. rickh
    The Wicks print catalog (2007-2008) lists it as: 28-1/4" 28-1/4"x28-3/4" 15.6lb density Divinycell F500-085 $105.41 *I* will assume the first 28-1/4" is a misprint, it should be 1/4" ACS: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/divinycellfoam.php Wicks: not listed as you found. Rick
  21. rickh
    Sa-weet! Though it (the DRO) shows in the pix you posted New mill, or new DRO? Rick
  22. rickh
    Along these lines, this is the jig I used to drill the holes for the elevator tube. Quick/dirty on the table saw, blade tilted to 45*, run the block through on both edges/sides ("V" is now perfectly centered). Drill the pilot/guide hole in the jig on the drill press. "V" up, hand rotate the drill bit till the bit touches both edges of the "V", now drill away. Rick
  23. rickh
    Me nether, me too (cabinet/furniture butcher). As you glean some of the postings, you'll see quite a few "wish I'd started earlier..." threads. Rick
  24. rickh
    Ma touch typing skills aren't what they used to be, are they? (like they ever were) Rick
  25. rickh
    <hijack> 1) www.smalparts.com has quite a selection of 'stuff', including various mesh screens for the strake -> sump. 2) Is there a consensus to the mesh size? Cozy plans say "from the hardware store...". I know it shouldn't be to small/fine/close, nor 1" chicken wire. 3) Thanks for the tip on the sump valve Jerry. </ hijack> Rick

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