gullikson

Hello, Sorry if this question has been answered previously. I’m concerned about the installation of the rudder cable bracket assemblies being installed over the fiberfrax and titanium (in my case) firewall sheet. My concern is that over time the fiberfrax will mechanically degrade causing the brackets to be loose/gapped. Any input to my concern would be appreciated. Has anyone installed a shim under the brackets in lieu of the fiberfrax in these areas? Would this pose a safety issue not having the fiberfrax in the footprint of the brackets? Thanks in advance, Greg

You can always try and peel the whole layup off the core. Just re-prep the core and/or patch core as necessary. Make sure everything is dull and do over. This is done on composite military aircraft on occasion (on parts that are about the same size as your bulkhead) and should work okay. You can grab the corner of the layup with vise grips. If you ruin the part then just start over. If the core is salvageable, you are good to go.

Thanks Lynn.

I'm planning on purchasing one of Jack Wilhelmson's EZ-Noselifts for my Long-EZ project. Looking for input, opinions, advice, on whether to buy the NL1-12, which has manual emergency extension, or the NL1-12E with electrical emergency extension with backup battery. Jack says the system weight is about the same for both. I like the idea of manual backup but with no experience with either system, advice from anyone with some experience that they wouldn't mind sharing would be great. Thanks, Greg

I have always understood that the scavenging effect from a header system relies on the collector used. I'm certainly in no position to speak on the four-into-one setups for the EZ's but.... the collector is certainly a short one and it almost looks like it would have a negligible effect compared to an automotive system with a much longer collector.

Wayne, found your old post about bending the 1/8 4130 to make your four "extrusions". Cheers.

Well, I can see now why Dick machined his 4130 1x1 angles for the engine mount extrusions... I am unable to find 4130 angle anywhere, only A36. Wayne, did you find 4130 1 x 1 x 1/8 material in AU?

Thanks Dick. This is a bit off the extrusion point but.... Did you extend the third OML ply of UNI on your fuselage full length in anticipation of the O-320 or are your fuselage layups pretty much per dwg? Same question for the 3" wide UNI layup at top of fuselage that stiffens the upper longerons? Greg

Hi Dick an Wayne, Did you make the 1.6" L extrusions and the 1.6" x 2" plates that mate to the upper engine mount extrusions out of 4130 as well? Thanks, Greg Gullikson

Ran into this website today. A promising looking engine that is 25% the size, 30% lighter and 50% better fuel economy compared with a state-of-the-art, conventional turbo-diesel engine. Check it out. www.ecomotors.com

Thanks Rick. I sent a paypal payment over a week ago and Vance did not accept the payment. Also, the email address does not appear to be active. I will try sending a check to the address on the website. Thanks again.

Does anyone know if Vance Atkinson is still selling fuel gauges? If so, please provide contact information. I have been unsuccessful in contacting him. Thanks, Greg

Joe, I have already purchased Eureka cores with a straight, no kink, trailing edge. I believe that they will have the same WL rise from BL 55.5 to the inbd end. Thanks, Greg

Getting ready to start the wings on my Long-EZ. I have seen many older posts in various places over the years where people are using an aluminum angle, I-Beam, or rectangular tubing to get their trailing edges flat and straight. I have looked at the jigs, templates, and plans and it would appear that the Long-EZ wing trailing edge goes from WL 17.5 at BL 23 to WL 16.95 at BL 55.5 and then back up to WL 18.35 at BL 157. I can't see how you could use one aluminum angle on the trailing edge since it appears that trailing edge is not straight from the fuselage to the wing tip. I sure would appreciate feedback on this. Thanks in advance.

TMann, Do you have original, uncut templates? I'm certainly no authority on paper shrinkage or distortion as it ages, hence part of my problem. I haven't spent the time to go through all of the archives to see what the source for the Open-EZ templates are. I guess one of the best measurements to see if I am in the ballpark with either set of templates that I do have would be to get a diagonal (sort of) measurement from the middle of the lines (black drawing lines) at the leading edge at W.L. 17.4 to the trailing edge at W.L 17.4. Since your templates are not cut it would not really be practical to get these from you. I may be making a bigger deal out of this than I need to since all of the trailing edges will be 4" off the floor with the T.E., shear web, and L.E. all strung in straight. It's just that it's a lot of work to make these wood templates very acurate, leveled, etc., only to find out they were made to the wrong size. Can anyone provide the dimensions noted above for the four outboard templates??