rickh

Lemme know what it's like, I read I'm supposed to do this eventually. Be glad you didn't turn 54 like I just did. Couple three four more years of build, then I'll be as old as... umm... I'll be old[er]. Like I've heard a dozen times before, "wish I'd started sooner". If you want to fly a canard, buy one (partial or complete). Mod to suit if needed. If you like to build, better get with it. Before you turn 54 What are you going to do after you get your PPL, other than staying current? Rick

It's kinda $$ for me. I'd planned on getting the fuse done by Spring (succeeded), so I sorta ordered only what was needed for that... mostly. If a chapter called for two screws, but the plane needs 10, I ordered 10. I've enough foam sitting around to do the main spar (next project), and strake skins. The latter was bad planning, but the foam doesn't take up much space, and I saved a bit on shipping by ordering all the sheet goods. I ordered enough glass (whole rolls) and epoxy so I wouldn't be stuck if I ran long on a chapter. It's true! I'd drooled over BMA, would have to have enlarged my IP to fit their EFIS-1. Now BMA makes a slightly smaller one that should fit the plans IP. And Dynon just announced an interfaced autopilot for their unit at a very reasonable price. I'll wait, technology changes... And someone told me so Rick

Got an email from Tom; he's on the road; forgot his forum credentials, and unavailable to fix the router that feeds his domain. www.ttcse.com/cozylinks/ will be "server unavailable" for a bit. Rick

Find an electrician there, they often use long drill bits to drill/fish alarm wires through walls. I'd venture a 1/4" bit isn't exactly needed for the pilot holes, but should probably be smaller than 1/4". You'll re-drill at least once, then again if needed to match whatever the pilot drill is on your 'spot face' tool of choice. YMMV, FWIW Rick

Thanks! I know I'm close to "machine fit" using plans lengths/thicknesses for the upcoming parts, but I can only measure with two 6" scales. Back to your regularly scheduled topic... Rick

When the epoxy hits my red marker marks, it turns a luscious pink. Been thinking on changing to a black marker... Off topic, did you have to modify the main LG axle sleeve as shown in the last pix? Does it fit snug 'as made' or is a washer or trimming needed between the bulkhead bushings? I ask because my rough measuring between the surfaces indicates it's 'real close' on mine. Rick

'Spose you could, but how would you attach the coax to the antenna foil? *I'm* more worried about a bend/break/snap where the coax pops through into the fuse... on my tub anyway. Maybe I should add a dollop of silicone as a strain relief?

My process: Cut some BID a bit wider than needed. 5" for 2- 2" tapes. Lay them on a piece of poly. Drizzle epoxy on, move it around. Add a top sheet of poly, squeegee well. Use the 2" blade of my framing square (the other blade is 1.5" BTW) Slice one raw edge straight with a utility knife. Slice the other edge. Take to the build. Gently fold in half, crease lightly. Remove one layer of poly, apply to wet joint, press out the bubbles w/ a rag. Remove top sheet, stipple gently, peel-ply. Rick

If the boats I've seen are any indication, I suspect your plane will have spiderwebs in no time. I think the glass/foam/glass sandwich flexes a bit more than a boat. Is a gelcoat UV proof? Need to protect the underlying foam. Weight factor, especially on the ailerons and elevators! Can gelcoat be had in an epoxy formulation (I don't know)? Polyester over epoxy doesn't exactly 'mix'. Rick

I'd be interested in the link also. BTW, there was (is?) a site dedicated to E-85 ethanol, think it was U of Iowa or sumpin. No reason they can't. I'm looking at Vinyl-Ester resins. I understand (read: I read it on the internet so it must be true) vinyl-esters are used in many underground fiberglass fuel tanks. Flue liners, corrosion resistant tank liners, ... It's got a pretty high Tg also. Used as a final skim coat when I do the strakes, or used as the resin in a thin glass veil as a 'bonus' layer over plans BID/UNI/Epoxy. Or not. Though I'd probably need to limit myself to a low compression Lycoming, it would give me an additional option for fuel. If avgas got to $12.00/L Rick

OK, I got out my crayon and string.... I've cut off the F-22 ears, so YMMV. Width of F-22 Doubler, at the side foam, aft edge (it's tapered ever so slightly) 33.125" Width at F-28, against the longeron, forward face, 32.375" Forward face of F-28 is 6.125" from the forward face of F-22. Width of IP at the top longeron, forward face, ~36.25" Rick [edit] Forgot to add my top longerons are a hair over .75" in width

??Canard attach tabs too far apart? Slight mod needed when I get there? Rick

Roll it outside to paint? What STeve said. Unless the fuse is banked on the trailer, the strakes are a bit wide. Drive quick, watch for coppers. Rick

Nuttin wrong with that. If'n ya want me to measure my tub in any way (assuming I made it right), holler. Might be able to dig up, and post, one of the pix I didn't put on my website too. I'd say just put everything together... tape, ropes, and clamps. See how the big picture looks before mixing up flox. Rick

Did you notice much spring back when you removed the longerons from the jig? (Prior to laminating them onto the side foam) I'm pretty sure my F-22 fit fairly snug 'out of the box', but the doubler needed slight trimming to match the curve of the fuse sides. Same for the IP and formed wire trough. I waited on F-28 til the IP and F-22 were done/cured, and trim to fit. It also needed trimming at an angle. YMMV. Lastly, do your bulkheads match up to the "M" drawings? (Assuming you're using the large M drawings). Rick

Neighbor stopped by to see my progress, said it looked like a coffin. Ehhh. Pilot buddy says the flying lawn chairs are pretty safe. He's also the one that hauls me around as ballast in his Citabria. I poke at the [3 mil?] fuse skin as we buzz around sideways at 5000 AGL. And I hope to be flying at 200 MPH, with one layer of 3/8" foam holding my arse up, and keeping said arse away from the ground. Cool, ain't it Oh, and a 180 HP Torque-O-matic engine strapped to said 3/8" piece of foam via a 1/4" sheet of plywood and a couple of strips of fiberglass Rick

You mean I should bring 'ready made' pretzels in the bag when (if) I fly my tub to RR? Wouldn't it be a whole lot cooler if people just strolled up to my tub and hit the dispenser? Fuzzy dice! Now why didn't I think of that? Though a bit terse, I found his list interesting. Rick ps: what's wrong if I fill my compass with whiskey? or rum (for the Gurlz)? Or gin (for moi)?

Why yes! I know a bunch of plain (plane?) builders (note to self, must not slobber at RR) Rick

I resemble that remark... I dropped Jim a note 3 months ago, never got a reply. With no disrespect for Jim, the info and parts are available other places if you look. Tracy's stained glass workshop, steinaire, Marc Z's site, ACS/Wicks ... And I would prefer if you don't refer to me as "some poor slob".

What was communicated? Maybe his radios were losing smoke... Rick

There's advantages to a higher shop temp (than what's available in Alaska). Layups should be done in the 75-85* range. Higher than that means you'll have to move fast or use a slower hardner. Some hardners can be mixed to vary cure times. Don't be sweating all over uncured epoxy either The plans are pretty specific, use one of them. It seems most builders are using MGS now. I'm using Pro-Set (West in spots), others use Aeropoxy. Use one (or more, but don't mix till cured fully) of the approved epoxy systems. Ditto Tom Tugan's collection of links, it's painfully easy to go to a relevant chapter.Rick Maddy hosts a raft of websites (www.maddyhome.com/) But the best one is in my sig Rick

1" square seems about the minimum, some builders go a bit larger to ensure the engine mounts will hit the hardpoints. Flox them in. Alodine won't hurt, the added cost is trivial. See: http://www.cozybuilders.org/mail_list/cozy-faq.html Rick

http://www.mistral-engines.com/docs/weightchart.jpg Though have no idea how much marketing fluff is tossed in... Rick

It was against my better judgement too, but I think epoxy is the best choice here. Wood glues dry flexible, some more than others. Epoxy will cure hard (some may say brittle), but it will hold the longerons to shape much better than most 'wood' glues will. I had almost *no* springback when I removed my longerons (for a Cozy) from the jigs, I really expected more... much more. It's your plane though Rick

Abscess makes the phart go Honda? PU! Rick