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DavidHawks

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About DavidHawks

  • Birthday 08/05/1955

Personal Information

  • Real Name (Public)
    David Hawks
  • Location (Public)
    Glendale, Ky

Project/Build Information

  • Plane Type
    Long-EZ

DavidHawks's Achievements

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  1. Check this out. http://www.homebuiltairplanes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4103 #1 post asks why there are not many Long EZ's present at flyin's. Read the #5 post! Maybe he needs to show up at the Rough River flyin!
  2. Thanks for the offer. I wish I could remember who I loaned my videos to. Let me know if someone offers one to copy.
  3. If someone has the video with the Vari eze and Defiant flying over the desert, If you would be willing to burn me a copy, I would be glad to pay for one. If it could be put on DVD even better.
  4. Anyone know if the Rutan videos are still available? I have the one titled "Wings of Glass". I loaned the other two out, now can't remember to who, and they never got returned.
  5. Thanks Tony and Wayne. I had not considered the minwax problen with vapors and heat. Sounds like the multispec is the way to go. David
  6. I would like to hear from anyone that has used something other than Zolatone to finish their cockpit. I tried some Plastikote fleckstone on a test part. After cure I brushed on a coat of MinWax clear satin polyurethane. I let this dry for several days and tried to scuff it up with several different tools to simulate normal wear and tear. It held up extremely well. Thinking about using this. Any opinions? David
  7. Call me stupid or whatever else comes to mind! I did the bottom of my fuselage with the Cory Bird method except I only used 3 coats of pure epoxy. I sanded this smooth and had a few pinholes. If I had put on 5 coats of epoxy I do not believe this would have happened. I already had 1 gallon of smooth prime on hand so I rolled it on. Smooth prime directions say to apply 3 coats, sand, apply 3 more coats and sand smooth. Since I already had a pretty smooth surface after the first sanding it looks really good! Now for the dumb question, and no I do not plan to use the smooth prime any more. There are some places where the smooth prime is sanded through. Since I will have to apply a 2 part epoxy primer anyway do I have to apply more smooth prime to cover the spots? I am trying to save weight here and if I had it to do over I would not have used smooth prime. I am not a painter as you can probably tell. Any opinions here will be appreciated. David
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