Neverquit

While we're on the topic. Is a mixture lever necessary if I have an electronic fuel injected system? Seems I only need a throttle. What else? I learned to fly in a Cessna. Before starting I had to push the primer a couple times. Is this needed on an EFI 360 as well?

Steve, why not just use a solid piece of foam? Use your wing tip template on one end that will attach to the wing. Trace the template and affix it to the wing tip temporarily. Follow the leading edge angle up the foam block. Trace the verticle stab template at the top of the block where you'll put the leading edge of the verticle stab (I think its 4 or 7 inches back). Then blend the two leading edges together. Take off the block and sand the transition between the two templates.

I've made some great modern art, some still attached to the floor using too much heat.

Rickh is right on the money with his answers. I have a low garage door rails. You'll find pieces of foam or epoxy on them somewhere. I like the idea of the table outlets and casters. You can roll your table outside in the driveway in the summer and just plug into it. I suggest you make your table legs no higher than 3 feet to the table top. Mine is higher and sometimes difficult to lean over and cut that last few inches or wet out.

First, relax, have a Guiness. You're learning early of your mistakes and giving yourself good answers. The white streaks, as discribed somewhat in the plans are areas where the epoxy didn't penetrate. You're correct in assuming probably from overheating. This can happen from re-heating hardened epoxy as well. Get out your heat gun, peel the top plies off. Sand it down with 30 grit and re-apply the two layers. You don't need to heat the epoxy too much. The idea is to make it thinner in consistency. 90-100 degree is great. Small plies like this don't need a lot of heat attention. You'll find the heat gun/hair dryer comes in more handy when you're doing real big layups and need to move out the wrinkles. Another thing, don't over heat the plies with the heat gun after peel ply. The dacron will shrink a bit and cause plies to buckle or joggle. You're on the right track. Keep er' going.

So which paint do you consider the most durable. Which is the easiest to apply?

Jack did that to his E-Racer with no negative affects. Although similar to a Cozy, not a Cozy. Since you've been in quite a lot of Cozys, you should be able to tell us the difference when you try it.

Although I'm still a bit scared of slapping a big six in the back, that's no way to talk about me just because I'm installing cup holders and wheel spinners!

Maybe, just maybe(?) it IS the solution. I had to get the gas tank sealer directly from Jeffco (Rhino Lining) . I don't think ACS carried it 2 years ago. Or possibly they didn't carry just a gallon. All you need. Anyway, I gave a lot of questions to Jeffco when ordering due to the controversy and not once did they mention a slow or fast hardner to me. Just because its suggested in the newsletter doesn't make it comfortable for me. Chris, I suggest calling one of the Rhino Lining techies or even Jeff Bassman himself for some solid advise. Keep us updated okay?

If the basement door is a 8' x 7' door as stated, it CAN be done with any cutting. Here's a way I've taken the project out and in the garage 3 times already. This was my first attempt by myself. Note the chain hanging on the left of the photo. This is from a chain fall tied to a radiator in the upstairs bedroom. At this point I was on the phone calling the troops. Mr. Lefleur brought over his son and his buddies. We had it out in ten minutes. Other times Mr. Skorija and his buddy came over. Note: use three to four young men and supervise instead of three old coots. Would have been a cinch if the limestone block post in between the doors was removed. Unfortunately it was not an option if I wanted to keep the upstairs bedroom in one piece.

SAF, I can tell you right now you will get overwhelmed with too much information in the beginning. I read my plans for a year before starting. Well, while fixing up my house and garage too. Here's what you should do to ease the stress: Before each chapter read the archives, etc. on that chapter. Go to some of your builders websites. They are most all set up by chapter summaries. Understand what you're going to do in each chapter before you begin. Then build according to plans and your mod ideas. To keep it simple for now get as much fiberglass and epoxy you can buy and store. MGS from Airheart in Toronto is probably your best bet. That stuff comes up with almost every chapter build. Buy all the foam you can for the next few chapters and get the hardware. The nuts, screws, and bolts comes cheap for price and shipping. The chapters are setup from simple to more complex as you go. As you go through the chapters you'll gain confidence and call yourself an expert in no time. By then all will come clear.

Well, with a few mods I suppose he could streeeeech the truth for a sale. I like how he used Jack's beauty as an example. A fine example I'd say... Jack, will you please email me some of your tips how to get a canard finished is such a short time? I would give my left n... to have mine done by spring.

Anyone interested I have a copy of the SA article of Shirl Dickey's original E-Racer in PDF. I tried attaching it here but won't work. Just PM or email me and I'll attach it for you.

Well, first these planes are VFR if you equip them as such. They can be great IFR planes and many fly "above the weather" this way. As for lightning strikes I would rather avoid at all costs regardless of the aircraft material. You're speaking of a very powerful electrical shock that can do extreme damage. Your idea of fine metal mesh is getting confused with static buildup from friction from air across the surfaces. You will see all GA and commercial planes with "wicking" rods or wires extending from the trailing edges. What I'm going to do in this case is put some of the fine mesh across the leading edges of my wings and strake then run them to a wick. You can get it from Aircraft Spruce. Whether it works or not we'll see. It may end up shielding and screwing up my wing antennas. Nevertheless, none of the static discharge ideas will save your butt from lightning. When its time, its time.

Well, its difficult to tell those with so much pride in the sale or purchase of the aircraft. Ever sit in one? I did after getting out of a V-tail. Jeese..a lot of money for a Mooney just to feel Cozy.

Check ou this month's Flying mag. Here's your super-duper Velo already built. Looks like Velo's getting some ideas from Piaggio. Same looking fuse as the Avanti. http://www.flyingmag.com/news/862/piaggio-gets-big-order-for-avanti-iis.html

I'm in...I've got a lot of time on my hands. What you want made and how much you willing to spend? Of course you understand the history of these planes is most never get finished. I would at least expect payment first. Stevo..How's that new garage/hanger coming?

Wentworth is a good source for salvaged engines and if you call them you can get an equal setup without the Ebay panic and competition. All you need to do is call them. Well... maybe not you Drew but when/if you get back to the States. I believeits the exact same engine I talked to Dave about 2 weeks ago for nearly the same price.

When you sand a cured epoxy surface you just need to be careful not to sand through the epoxy into the fiberglass. Thus, you may have heard that a lighter sandpaper may be better such as 80 grit. I've had no problems with the 36 and I'll stick to the plans suggestion first regardless. The thoroughly cured epoxy is hard and gets harder with age. Don't worry now. All this will come together in your skill level as you go. If you follow the plans by chapter, it is setup so you perfect your skill and learning curve as you go. One thing you will learn quickly is there's a lot of "noise" on these forums and emails which has been gathered for over 30 years. Don't get too caught up in it or you'll spend more time here researching and less time building. Stick to the plans and read the newsletters. Join CSA for "official" good changes and tips. Different is not always better. Its just different.

Yep, like having your first baby. Staying up late or getting up early to give it attention, never enough stuff, money, neglected wife/girlfriend, ruined clothes, need more room, etc. Welcome Guiness guy. Yep! I told Randy at RR I'll finish my plane before theirs for sure. She asked what plans number I had and my answer was #0134. She said, "why, you SHOULD be finished before us! Hehe, I'm 4 years into the build. Complete with Aerocanard wings and Cozy plans from a divorce' in Florida. Always wondered if it was the plane that caused the divorce....

The plans say 36 grit. The whole idea is something real rough for new epoxy to make a good bond with cured epoxy. Anything in that area is okay. I buy the 40 grit sticky backed 16 inch strips bu Norton or 3M. These you can stick to a block, board, sander, etc. A box of 50 will last you the entire build. Just geat a few for now if you like. They last a long time and if you peel ply your layups they last even longer. Next is 200 grit for your metal parts. You have to rough them up to attach or flox/attach to your epoxied layups. Just get a few sheets. This I think is pretty straight forward in the plans tool list but I just had to answer to the member name. A person of good taste!!

Isn't this another way of compromising structure strength for convenience?

I used DuPont "nason 421-19" 2K Urethane primer (gray) with "nason 483-87" activator. My trusted car paint store for 20 years says this is "the good stuff" for our application. 2-3 medium wet coats, 10 min. flash, 2-3 hr. dry to sand. The photo below is one quart, one coat. Warning: If you do the Cory Bird method, don't bother with MGS. It takes at least a half day for each application (50-50 slow/fast) and after 3 coats at the way Wayn Hicks suggests, its a pain to sand. The horizontal areas are great but the vertical and curved areas have drips that needed sanding flat. In those areas it wasd easy to go through the "skin" and make divots into the now "unskinned" micro along side the high spots. I suggest you cover with West like Wayne did if you want to do it easily. The only thing is I hear the TG for that stuff is only 120 deg. Your call. Note: I chased pin holes for 3 afternoons before getting them all. I'm sure the epoxy got the last remaining few but at what cost.

Here's more..

Thought I'd share these beauties from the off-sight hanger at Wright-Patterson AFB museum. Stopped there on way back from RR. You think we can get them to bring it next yeat?