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GuinnessGuy74

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  • Content Count

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About GuinnessGuy74

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 01/26/1974

Personal Information

  • Real Name (Public)
    Jim
  • Location (Public)
    Charlotte
  • Occupation
    Systems Administrator

Project/Build Information

  • Plane
    Cozy Mark IV
  • Plans Number
    1565
  • Chapter
    5
  1. Zoom, I have a set of 3rd edition plans and a young project for sale. I sold off most of the parts and raw materials. My project has chapters 4&5 complete and about 90% done through chap. 6. I am not in NY (anymore), but I am in North Carolina. Its a bit further but if you want it, I'll give you the whole thing and the plans for $600. I may be a little more south than you wanted, but the price tag may be good enough for you to consider. I really need the space in my garage. Anyway, let me know. You can contact me at guinnessguy74@yahoo.com or on this list. Thanks, Jim
  2. I still have the following available: Eureka Canard Core - $225 Approx 35 yds BID Approx 35yds UNI 1.5 Gallons MGS 335 2 quarts Hardener (1 fast, 1 slow) Approx 1 lbs Micro Approx 3lbs Flocked Cotton Composite materials above for $425 Thanks, Jim
  3. I made a typo in the above post. The BID roll is approx 35 yards, not 75. Sorry about that! Jim
  4. After a 3 month break, I have started up again....only to call it quits. I will not bore you all with my story, but I cannot afford to build this aircraft anymore. I am selling the cozy parts that I have and my tub (complete through chap 6). Here is what I have: 1 tub - Complete through Chapter 6 (minus the firewall). 1 set of plans #1565, marked only with updates/corrections 1 Eureka CNC cut Canrad Core (still in box, never opened) 1 Featherlite Main Gear (still wrapped with nose strut, the way it came off the truck) 1 Featherlite Nose Strut 1 Firgelli Automation 4" 150lb linear actuator (speed brake) Approx 75 yds BID Approx 35yds UNI 1.5 Gallons MGS 335 2 quarts Hardener (1 fast, 1 slow) Approx .5 lbs Micro Approx 3lbs Flocked Cotton I am located in the Charlotte, NC area. I have about $3500 in materials and parts. I am asking a humble $2000 for everything. I will consider selling off the parts seperately. A good chance for a builder to save some $$$ and get a headstart. I will post some pictures of the tub later. Email me at GuinnessGuy74@yahoo.com if you are interested... Regretfully, Jim
  5. I work for a NASCAR team. Richard Petty Motorsports. Dodge going bankrupt hurt us pretty bad. After the team went through layoff's and paycuts, I had to put my project on hold. Took a cut in pay but thankfully I didn't lose my job. Now back at it and starting up chapter 7. Good Luck Drew! Jim
  6. Technically the sides get covered (Chapter 4, page 1, Fig. 5 shows this very clearly). But general thinking seems to be that Nat just wanted the builder to gain experience. There are those who did it and those who didn't. I am one of the didn'ts. I just microed the foam, sanded down, and floxed it in place. In order for the BID to lay down the sides nicely, the sides of the back need to have a radius. Otherwise you'd probably get some nasty bubbles along the edges. I also preferred to have the seatback square to the sides when floxing it in place, instead of a rounded edge. I really don't think it matter one way or the other, otherwise it would have ended up int he archives as a "must do".... Just my opinion, don't deviate from the plans if you dont feel comfortable with it! Jim
  7. Erlend, Good to see you've worked things out. It's one of those "ah ha!" moments, there are more to come ;-) As far as the micro/epoxy ratio, you will find the type of foam will often dictate your ratio. For example, your lower density foams will benefit from a slightly thicker mixture to help fill all the voids easier, whereas the higher density foams will be easier with a thinner mixture. You will learn which to use over time... Good luck and keep building! Jim
  8. Erlend, Steve is right. Just be more careful when you are spreading that stuff around. You can just sand it off, but why make more work for yourself? For flat pieces, you can try putting a few pieces of wood under it to elevate it off the surface. Kinda like when you did the other side of the seatback. That way you can spread the micro and epoxy around and it wont pool up underneath. When you are done spreading. You can clean up and then lay the piece flat to cure.... Keep on building! Jim
  9. Congrats! There are plenty of things you can do while you are waiting to start building. First thing you should do is read the newsletters and mark up your set of plans with all the changes outlined in the newsletters. Even with a 3rd edition plans, there are quite a few. You don't want to forget to do that in six months. Print out the FAQs on Marc's site for the chapter you are on and staple a copy to that chapter of the plans. This way, you will never forget to read them before reading the chapter!! You'd be amazed at how many people forget to read them and ask a question that was answered in the FAQ. Start organizing your shop. Start building your table, hot box, etc. Try to do something everyday. Even if its just 15 mins. You will stay disciplined and make steady progress this way! Good luck with everything. Someone is always available to answer your questions. If you haven't done so, subscribe to the Cozy mailing list as well. Between that and these forums, you will never be alone in your build! Now get started! Jim
  10. Just to throw in my $.02, I have the Dremel version. I bought it for $89.99. The tool itself is wonderful, powerful, adjustable, comfortable. The accessories are a totally different story. The blades are crap. They cut fine, but dull smooth after a few passes through fiberglass. While the blades are inexpensive ($6-8) they are also very CHEAP. I went through 3 of them just trying to trim the 8 layer UNI on my Aft Landing Gear bulkhead. My solution was to buy a Fein SuperCut HSS Blade. Cost me $70 but it fits on the Dremel tool, and cuts through anything I throw at it like butter. And from the feedback I've received here, the Fein Blades last forever. If you go this route, you must get the Fein SuperCut blades as the MultiMaster blades do not fit. Not sure about the HF special one.... Anyway, hope this helps! Jim
  11. Good catch Andrew. I didn't read it like that the first time. I just didn't want a new builder to start under false pretenses, and be let down later on! Now buy those plans and get building Windwalker! Jim
  12. Windwalker, Welcome to the forums! You are right about builder support being phenomenal. Have you joined Marc's Cozy mailing list? If not you should. Between this forum and the mailing list, you will not find a better support network. AS far as difficulty goes, I was in the same boat you are. I started my project 3 months ago. Made a couple of mistakes along the way, but thats the beauty of composites - almost any mistake is repairable. I am now finishing up Chapter 6 and I can tell you, it is the most addicting thing I have ever done. We just had a discussion on the mailing list about who is building these birds. It doesn't take being an engineer if you stick with the plans. When you deviate, it helps to be one, or seek out expert advice before proceeding, though. As far as 1000+ hours? More like 2500-3000+ hours! Years are determined by how OFTEN you work on the plane, but hours are hours. Again, welcome! When you get the plans read them thoroughly a few times, then jump right in and get your, uh, hands wet! For what its worth, you have a great builder to help you out with Steve being close! Jim
  13. Hardshelling is applying a micro slurry to your foam, and allowing it to cure completely. You then sand the cured micro and continue on with your layup. It is useful when doing very large layups by yourself. If you do a search in the archives you can find out more, and how heated a topic it can be.... Jim
  14. Its quiet here today so let me expand on this thread further. I wound up throwing away my Dremel blades. They were garbage. One wouldn't last a days work on glass. I took everyones advice (thanks by the way) and purchased a Fein Supercut blade for my Dremel MultiMax (note: Supercut. The regular Fein blades do not fit a Dremel MultiMax.). I bought the HSS flush cut circular one.....whoa Nelly! Like a knife through warm butter!! I LOVED this tool before (you MUST get one if you are building IMHO Fein or Dremel or Bosch, jury is out), but I ADORE this tool now. What took me 15 mins or so of what seemed more like grinding instead of cutting, now took me all of 30 secs. And the fact that it is a flsuh cut blade is super handy. Can't thank everyone enough for the advice....moving on to Chapter 6!! Jim

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