steve

just now getting around to the spar-caps (bottom) i had to hand lay each strand in the wing-let. one down, the rest to go (wish id started earlier)

i think the bolt gets its strength from the rear (underside) and not so much from the front, but if it fails it all fails. id grind it down till gone or peel the hole thing off and redo. pliers some times can grip-and-rip

i found some pics on the other forum, i got 4 but there are more.

you have the sides done and needed to repair small spots be for glassing the sides, right ? ether way i cant see any issues yet. see if the sides are with-in 1/2 in length and you will be fine. cc girl said measure with mic's,mark with a Sharpe, and trim with a chain saw.....lol your OK and the plane will be OK.

anyone know ?

yep! i mean nope! beets me

is there twist in the wing of a cozy ?

will you be selling to the hole world? babal needs a babel-to-babal

um, north OK, as i was you once a time ago let see first I saw one.them i wanted one. then i looked at web pages (sounds familiar?) read john Slade's web page bought the planes for a cozy mark 4 ordered chapter 4,5,6 7,8,9 10,11,12 13,14,15 16,17,18 19,20.... and some day I'll have to look where i lost my darn plane keys:rolleyes:

мы вы продавали к миру отверстия?

the wing let is a figment of your imagination and yes i up one notch in the pic-phone

there was no way to fit my wing on in side.....until tonight. spent 2 hours and wala! it is close but very doable.

mine last till i lose them, and some day i mite bring it home to use on the plane:mad:

i saw them at osh and didn't like the prise tag 2800? plus injector's. so i'll just do my own. i still need to remove my 20 from its box:o

congrats on the convergence from arm chair builder to real builder ! you will have lots of dumb small questions, and the reading may seam to be in marshion at times so ask away. rule number one....no epoxy in the blender and don't @#$@ in your coffee cup;)

air gap will fill with epoxi and the flox helps hold the rib sides together

i do the 1 min and use bril cream for a release agent (not kids clay)

i did mine this way...first i filled the first foot of all ribs with blue foam(le-back to the flat top) and filled in the cg strake. it was all shaped like R-33. you can segment or do and one long bend. i then took 3'? long 3/4?" wide strips and pinned them to the Le and one at a time i micored and pinned all the way back to the flat spot on the top(fuel lid). there i was able to use flat sheets of foam and fitted them in place all the way back to the spar. the trick was filling the cracks with micro, so i just pulled out 2 or 3 staples,microed,put the staples back, and so on. let the hole thing dry till morning and pulled out all the staples and lightly sanded and glassed as per plans. after cure i removed it(top skin) and placed it on a table glass down and microed and glassed the inside (do this 4 times) now place it back on and trace where it touches all the ribs. remove, invert, duck tape 2" over the tracings and place the skin back on the ribs. now wet out 10 yards of 2" bids and foil-ply them up from underneath.(2 times) and wala, you now have one top skin/with mated T-caps. the bottom is the same but no tracing and no duck tape.

i have the same issue with my cozy jigs, but when all are assembled it looks like they are fine, go figure:confused:

it was a short night but the numbers are there and the look for the most part is there. i think all my deg's were right because things lined up so well. i have lots of stuff to rethink(rudder cable, wire, antenna, nav, est so will hold off till i finger them out. it has a nasty twist/load and i don't know if no sheer and spar is so hot a thing.. so to help get the twisting and side loading stronger i will cut the sheer web all the way up the winglet(same as wing) then do a small spar 1/2 to 3/4 up. i have lots of pics but cant load here because they are 500kb and up so you can see them on Dust blog, ill try one:rolleyes: 530kb 524kb all to big sorry

do you know what shipping would be ? can you do this ? i looked at it and many say it needs not a spar and sheer?i could use more input if you have it ? it was not the look i wanted, i believe it was a compromise to what he wanted.

i did lots of math and so guessing, the stab is 59.5 deg slope back. i changed it to 58.3 and lost a pinch of drag, to offset a small lose of lift in the wing end(7" of flat to 9" of curve). i cut 7" off so as to end up with the stab in the same spot as planes(I'm over by 7/8").its early and i mite cut and lose the 1"' there is a lot more going on with this then what meets the eye. i started the curve in the LE the plans is 4.5 back(so every thing is out the window). the rudder is a biggie to because you lose the 9" in the curve but need to get it back or do the math:irked: i have not got mine cut out yet (tonight with some luck) i don't know when the plans say to cut it:p id give Marc the bucks but he still wants his Ginni's:brocolli: this is paint by numbers and i just will stay inside the lines. when done, it will be the same as plans just different:p where are the pic's of jacks blend (i want to see his rudder height).

to big, shoot. heres small test.bmp

i lost phone/camera.i got my old one but we see. this thing is way cool and hard on the brain:irked: two big bobos right off the bat. can some one do my math first off on the 102.15, is that to the center Le of the lower wing let ? IE the measurement from the aileron corner to the front outer wing(4.5 back). if it is, then my best guess is I'm now 103.25 so i rounded out the rear measurement to 109 from 108.?35 i need the % that i added so i can add it to the last measurement (aileron-to-tiptop wing let)

your right, again:p hot stuff is not grate stuff hot stuff is 15.oo a oz (balsa planes) grate stuff is 4.00 a can( house insulation) has any one hot wired into hotstuff ?