rnbraud

Hello All, Another one about the Lyc 540 in a Cozy. I assume the engine mount that Scott Carter and Chris E., and by association, the one offered by the Cozy Girrls supports magnetos, oil-filter, and such. However, I read a posting where someone suggested using electronic ignitions and remote oil filter to allow the engine mount to be collapsed somewhat and pull the engine in closer to the firewall. First, does anyone know what the Cozy Girrl's engine mount supports? And Second, is it feasable to collapse the engine mount closer to the firewall? It just seems the closer you bring the engine the weaker the members of the engine mount become since the attach angles are getting shallower. Any and all comments appreciated.

Hello All, Still making plans to decide on my engine. Haven't finally decided, but still gathering information. For the 540 I see that the CozyGirrrls have a 540 engine mount and in the description they mention additional structure to beef up the engine mount attach points. Now I understand and can visualize adding triangular, assume two, one on each side of the 5th mount point, with the "small part" near the mount point and the "wider part" down to the main spar. The "wider part" being the width of the spar. Is this correct? What I don't understand is how to beef up the "middle" mount points. I understand there are gussets of some kind going from the mount point, or is it the spar, down tot he landing gear bulkheads. That part I don't understand and can't visualize. Does anyone have any info on how to beef up these areas? Drawings would be awesome, even hand drawings. I know I can contact Scott Carter, Chris E. or Jannie Versfeld, however, I am sure they have been hit pretty frequently on this. Besides if the info is posted here, all can see and judge for themselves without bothering any of these gentlemen. So, anyone have any info? Any and all will be appreciated.

Okay, I am trying to drill the holes for my rudder hinges. I searched the archives for tips on how to hold the hinges on the inside of the winglet in order to match drill the holes for the screws. I didn't find much. I was able to stuff foam in the cavity in the rudder itself in order to line them up and drill the holes in the rudder. However, I don't see how I can match drill the holes in the winglet. I have read about the "Hack-saw" method but I can't visualize how that would hold the hinge against the inside of the winglet. Can someone point to a website or description, or even better pictures on how to drill these holes? Any and all comments, suggestions, and chastisements are welcome.

I am getting ready to mount my ailerons and rudders and will be using click-bonds from Infinity. I had planned to utilize three (3) click bonds for the 4" rudder hinges, four (4) click bonds for the 6" rudder and aileron hinges, and 5 clickbonds for the 8" aileron hinge. However, in looking over a few websites, including the Infinity website, I see where they used two click bonds on the small 4" hinges and only three click bonds on the larger 6" and 8" hinges. Is this right? Is this what the "Cozy Collective" would suggest? Thanks.

Hey Lynn, and others. How about a 6 into 1??? Would this still give the same benefits? Due to the number of pipes, could you stack them 2-2-2 vertically so that they adhere to the boat-tail shape? Thanks.

Hello All, This is an alcohol question, but not the kine in fuel. I got a hint from a builder awhile back who mentioned that we could add denatured alcohol to a thick/dry micro that would thin it out. I tried it and it works great!!! It makes the micro very nice to spread and can make it lighter by allowing us to put more micro into the slurry and when the alcohol evaporates it will return to its previous thick/dry state before curing. Now I went one step further and took some thick/dry micro, you know the one that is hard to spread, and added ALOT of denatured alcohol to the point that the mix is of the consistency of latex paint. This allowed me to paint on the micro slurry that then settled out to a nice smooth level. The goal as to get about a 1/8" to 1/4" thick coating. It works great and cures just like normal thick/dry micro. However, with all of the fuel/alcohol discussion I am wondering if applying micro that is really thinned with denatured alcohol might, and I stress might, cause problems? It is in contact with the layup for maybe an hour or two before it evaporates. I just am looking for some comments/suggestions. I wouldn't want to coat the whole airplane with this only to learn later that I have weakened the entire structure or something like that? What to youze guys/gals think? Later.

Hello all, Need some advice; as usual. I am working on my strakes. I have the skins and the ribs all done and the ribs installed on both sides. I used Ez-Poxy resin with the slow hardner, E-Z 84, for the strakes. I have been using MGS for everything else. I chose Ex-Poxy cause it has been mentioned it is the best for fuel resistence. I just finished taping in the bottom skin on the left side to the ribs. Next up is the right side bottom skin. I now read a posting where Dave Wilenius mentions this: >Note also that Ez-Poxy hardners 83 & 84 are also on the cycloaliphatic amine >list. Only Ez-Poxy 87 (the slow Ez-Poxy hardner) is in Gary's aromatic amine >list. Ah crap!!! From Gary Hunters presentation I read that Ez-83 was the fast hardner, Ez-84 was the slow hardner, and Ez-87 was the really slow hardner. I thought I read from other postings that the best choice for the strakes was the Slow hardner. I realize now it is the slowest hardner that is recommended. So I go to the Aircraft spruce website to see about the Ez-87 hardner and I note the following on there webpage. Note "Aromatic" in all three hardners: > E-Z POXY TECHNICAL DATA > E-Z POXY RESIN SYSTEMS FROM COMPOSITE POLYMER DESIGN > E-Z 10 Epoxy Resin > E-Z 84 Aromatic Amine Hardener > E-Z 83 Aromatic Amine Hardener > E-Z 87 Aromatic Amin Hardener Now I am really confused, so I go and check the archives and I find this tidbit from Gary Hunter himself: >Safe-T-Poxy I or now EZ-Poxy 87 is probably by far the best in this >category, with or without a post cure. Chemical resistance is one of the >prime attributes of epoxies beyond homebuilding airplanes. They are used >for building fiberglass chemical storage tanks and piping and for lining of >steel tanks to prevent corrosion. In that industry the curing agent "type" >governs the degree of chemical resistance. Aromatic amines are by far the >best know curing agent type for overall chemical resistance - particularly >in fuels, solvents and strong acids. EZ-Poxy 87 is the only aromatic amine curing agent available to the homebuilt world. Crap, crap, crap, I used EZ-Poxy 84!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ok, now for the advice. If I get some Ez-87 hardner would it do any good to coat my strakes with two layers of pure epoxy with the 87 hardner and cover with peel-ply between coats? Is two thin coats going to provide me with any protection or am I just screwed cause I used the 84 hardner? If no to the thin coats, should I layup another ply of glass with the Ez 87? That would make my strakes pretty heavy, but should provice protection. I really don't want to re-build my strakes nor use some form of sealant line Jeffco or Pro-Seal. What is the advice from the group. Any and all comments or suggestions are welcome. Later. P.S. No, D and Tam I don't want to use Jeffco!!! Rock N. Braud, II Sr. Software Engineer, til April 15!!! Sevis Systems, Inc Cozy Builder - Chap. 21

Hello Steve, Thanks for the reply. I found this out when I did a dry run with setting up the ribs. Understand the need now. Later.

Hello All, Okay, I admit I may be overthinking this, but I have to ask. When installing the bottom skins I have noticed on several websites, and in the plans, to place flox between the ribs and the bottom skin. This is followed with adding 2" BID tapes to join the ribs to the bottom skin. I am curious as to why we need to put the flox between the ribs and the bottom skin. Aren't we just bonding the rib foam to the skin? It seems the real bond or strength comes from the tapes and not the rib-foam to bottom skin glass juncture. Am I missing something. Thanks.

Thanks to all for your responses and advice. I see now that it is ok to NOT install the bottom skin. The ribs, when joined, are strong enough to allow the formation of the T-Hats by placing the top skin on with release tape, and so on. This will allow the use of two-panels per skin. I will try to make the skins in two panels, one between the fuse and R-33 and one between R-33 and the wing. Since we bond the bottom skin to the ribs with 2" tapes, and the top skins will have a generous T-Hat along R-33, I think there won't be any lost bonding strength in using two panels vs one single skin. I have also seen the use of thin strips along the leading edge curve. While that process does look interesting, I think it may be more work than just using two panels. My main concern here is in that juncture at R-33 at the leading edge and the compound curve there. Using two panels should make this spot easier to form. Thanks for all the info, it is much appreciated.

Hello All, I am preparing to build the CG extended strakes and am curious as to the best way to handle the multi-segment issue. I have seen on some websites that the first juncture at R33 causes some separation issues when bending the top and/or bottom skins. I also saw on one website where someone utilized separate panels; one between R33 and the fuse, and another between R33 and the end of the strake. This seems easier to fabricate, however, I don't see how to make the T-Hats ontop of the ribs with separate panels. I can see that if I leave off the bottom strake skin and first build the T-Hats from the bottom, that separate panels would work. What is the conventional wisdom for building the CG Strakes: separate top skins or one whose piece? How does one make the T-Hats with the CG Strakes? Thanks.

Hello all, Have a simple materials question. I need an 1 foot long section of right-angle aluminum. Unfortunately, I need a piece that is about 3 1/2 inches on one side and 1 1/2 inches on the other. Now I know I can find some 1/8" thick 3x3 inch aluminum angle. However, I was wondering if I couldn't must make mo own out of fiberglass. If so, in rough figures, about how thick should I make it so that is is equivalent in strength to the 1/8" aluminum angle? I am confident the flat pieces of the angle-fiberglass will be strong enough. My concern in in the 90 degree angle part and how strong fiberglass is in that configuration. Thanks for any and all comments. Later.

As a follow up to the Duct Tape residue issue. Last night while digging through my "tool drawer" I came across a pink eraser and thought let me give it a quick try. I also noticed I had one of those belt sander cleaner thingys. You know, a big ole rubber eraser thingy. Well, the pencil eraser did work but required a lot of work. I then tried the sandpaper cleaner thingy, and WOW, works great. I mean really great. The fiberglass is spotless and it doesn't require much effort. The best way is to rub it in one direction. Then pick off the rolled up duct tape glue. Thanks for all the tips. Now on to drilling out my main spar! Aaaaaah!

Hello Wayne, Thanks for the reply. I will add the rubber eraser to my list of "non-solvent" approaches. Sounds like a winner. The duct tape is called out in the plans. Either Uli Walthers or the standard plans to build up spacing for the canopy frame for the bottom layups. I think I must have put on 5 or 6 layers. Unfortunately, I didn't realize at the time I would be leaving it on the fuse for about 2 months. Otherwise I would have removed it sooner. Live and learn! Thanks for the tip. Later.

Hi all, We have all read about removing duct tape residue from our plexiglass canopies. Now I have a question about removing duct tape residue from cured fiberglass. I just pulled off the duct tape layer that I applied while building the canopy frame. I need to apply some additon plies of fiberglass over the longerons onto the sides of the fuse. However, when I pulled off the duct tape, it left a lot of that gummy residue. I have searched the archives and found suggestions of Goof-Off, Acetone, Paint thinner, MEK and the like. What I am curious about is what these cleaners will do to the underlying cured epoxy. How will it affect the subsequent plies of fiberglass? It would seem Goof-Off or Eucalyptus would leave an oily residue. It would seem MEK, Paint Thinner or Acetone would dissolve the epoxy, well maybe just a little, but it would seem to soften it. What is the best way to remove duct tape residue off of cured fiberglass if I intend to apply more plies of fiberglass over the affected area?