steve

mine too. i like the part where he mover the fin thingy to show the wing go up or down. Degrees & Radians 1 radian = (180 ÷ pi) degrees or approx. = 57.295 779 513 082 320 . . . .° 57.3 will usually do. 1 degree = 0.017 453 292 519 943 . . . . radians 90° = 1.570 796 326 794 896 619 . . . . rad

i showed and got to do wing overs in a cozy, how boring

your fw is bigger that 4' ? 48" and its ok top to bottom ? (spar to naca) the cozy has a 4x8" filler on both sides, dose yours? that will add 8 more inches.?

i have seen both, and will vote for the taller. that said, was flying yesterday and climing out @ 500 fpm and could not see all that well over (under) the nose. i do fear that most that did a long or highter noze lift will never see it coming ymmv imho .

Welcome, I'm in Tacoma with a build and you are welcome to see it. I'm in caly right now and just got back from a fly-in at chino airport. i begged a ride in a cozy 4 and we did wing-overs first left then right. we got a little slow on the up (70?) so he added rudder but over all they were very cool . after the flip, i was looking straight down and it got going fast and i could really feel the G's on the pull out. you can solo in a long then get you pl in it as well, so you just rent from your left pocket and pay your right one:rolleyes:

2008 ? is this post old or did you mean 09, this comming moring ?

i just pump out all the air and brush wet epoxi all over the seems, then let the air back in. i use a vacuum hand pump and a hand made manometer ace hardwere has 1/4" snap fittings and tee's.

i just did this, if you can draw down to 1500 that is a very good sign, because if you had a hole 1/32" you'd lose all pressure in a fash.get a cheep 10.00 temp reader from harber and read the tank and then see pressure.

gr8 job, i too just built table #2. i hope its the last

now that is about the best news i have heard !I'm staying till the 4th so I'll try to grab Sprint100(?) and come up how is the other thing coming along ? (secret plane)

would like to drop in on you and see your builds. 3 hours from oc any way (driving) from the 24 to the 04

last year i worked on a dragon in chino and would like to ask the owner to pay-up (stay back marc) i will be in oc for 10 days starting on the 24th DEC. and want to drive up to chino airport and look in on Lynn and his Buddy's and it would be fun to get a ride in your bird. if you are in town. if not i could wait till next year:sad: have a very merry and safe chirsX

what she said ! thats how i did it. I'll add this, the plans didn't say much about the fuz "from the main spar to the first bag-bulkhead" so i layed-up a X bid lip to match the T-cap already in place and a somewhat screwed lip on the leading edge. if you plan it right you can do the hole job (skins too) without flipping the plane. my skin foam was made from 3/4" strips(idea stolen from cg) from the LE back about a foot so i could get the bend i was looking for. i would install them with pins(1.5" staples) and micro as i went. once i was back behind the curvy part i installed foam asper plans. the cool part is now you can remove the hole skin and support it on a table. glass the inside of the skin,and after it dries ,cover it with duck tape(at the bulk heads) and support it back up under the strake(after you do the lower T-caps), remove and glass the outer skin asper plans, just remember to get it back on and taped fully at the Le. to cure

ok, your not right. the cut out is 2 or 3 inches and is cut from the te. the spar tape is 3" and is in the center so you dont need to cut it.if you need to cut the spar tape you mite have a issue with the rudder falling off:p

sure can, will do

a tail is not needed for stability. By locating the c.g. far enough forward, it is possible to obtain any level of stability. The canard is used to provide the pitching moment needed to trim;)

cozy girls, sorry i ment cg stake and smp/cg strake

i have full pics of my gulwing on the other forum

had it been a stock cozy it would have fit. i missed it by 4".you need to lift one strake up to the top corner, with the nose low and the other strake low. put the nose in then the top strike then roll it around the small of the lower strake. the cc strake or the smp-cc strake will not fit. but you can easily open your door,remove the lower track, 2by10 and then put it though the opening with the cc strike . look at the pic and you can see the room i lost, the wood is laying about stock . good to here someone starting on a dream

i cut up my m3 and don't have the wing temp for BL 67.5... (used it to do the end of strake) if some one could post a pdf? so i can print it on my end you could save a life !!! I'm going for the street with the marbles now:scared: i think is on M-3 it would be the part of the wing that would touch the strake/main spar end. you will need to put inches from top to bottom and left to right so i can scale it when i print it..........thank you

nope, but i did just make the jigs for chapter 19 and any one needing them is welcome. the al cutting jigs will be built later tonight if i get to it.what part of sc ?

when you add wings,engine covers, and fuel tanks, you mite add up to a 1/4 inch of mico to flatten it all out. i think mine was lite and i could of added 2 more but did not:mad:

the auto body filler you are using (feather fill, mico-lite, est) two part mix is good stuff but learn how it works. get some scrap glass(fuzz cutout,any hardened glass) and drill in a small pee like hole then sand over the hole with 36# then farther out sand with 80# then with 180# and finally the edge with 320# now fill over it with your putty. now sand it down to 150# just the same as you would if you wanted to prime it, don't waist your time priming it just yet, but rather insert it it to the oven at the lowest setting for 4-8 hours (same as parking the plane out it the sun. remove from oven and look at what you see, a hole with scratches all around it. re-sand and prime, it will now work just fine in the sun. putty works a lot like are epoxy as it needs to post cure.

Nov 18, 2008 ... This article is about the fungi known as molds. Slime molds and water molds are not fungi and are discussed in separate articles. ... not sure you tube has a video on molds

tom, his name is greg not glenn silly