steve
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Everything posted by steve
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after i built the fhc and cut it down to just in-front and glued the cut off back on the t/b then did the gule wing a lot of lips needed to be changed, so i got very good at lippidge lol.the presser from the shocks pushing up on the canopy raised the front haft up almost 3/8 and i set the rear up the same. then i duck taped the canopy with 1/4 wood in place and microed/glassed over the longs. when it was all done i had a gr8 1/4" gap all the way around. the hole thing took over a year but i like it and it was worth the wait so, post cure your top befor you start gapige....
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i think the hole thing looks gr8 ! two things i mite look at, the crushed ends of the tubes, the one end is hard bolted and the other end is clamped to a large hot vibrating moving part. if i was that little part and had a weakness, i bet it would be in the vortex of the bend. just one mans point of view . are they heat softened and made from 4130 cm ?
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m I can't say my concerns are valid, but unknown. you are so right about the hardness, day 6 vs day one no way can you get it flat. i have did the hodgepodge on thin spots like the bottom and the turtle back, but i all-ways over sand while it is soft (day 1/2 to 1 1/2 day) that way when I'm ready to work that same spot i can float on a big coat and never run in to the hard stuff. i think after a summer or 4 it all sands about the same....HARD IMO
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i have read that some have cut out and replaced our canopy in just a few hours (Evey 10 years?), will this new look be able to be replaced ?
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i have the tinted todd
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i had a ride in the back of a long and the pilot was over 6'4". there was room to spare
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http://www.motionaero.com/files/250XL_InstallationManual.pdf
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have you got the open ez planes ? free that will be a big help
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if you can build a good table then you too can build a good plane.i like the string trick, hope to remember it:o
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ar is spot on this time (and the last time) and if i was you (him) id do it as he so wonderfully spelled out >AR not ar....sorry;)
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i wonder if it dreems......
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fuselage sides inside layup complete
steve replied to killerb1971's topic in Builder Progress Reports & Motivation
yes, it would but the plans have you put a tube under there for the canopy lock under there.change one thing........fix 10 more (ask me how i know) in my ship that spot is all cut out up to the ip panal -
can we get a shot befor you get smashed ?....lol
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OK , Ty Jon i jumped a little fast at you and im sorry ( long day with bad quotes) for that.there are 10 pics on the other forum and it was built with 4130 cm and is reinforced. the bed mount if iffy at best but you can have it with the mount. i would trash the berries and the plate and have the girls do that part to fit the bolts. i spent over 200.00 just in the tube . this is a good deal for some one. i have the 20b now(and the girls mount) and don't need it .
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well thanks for that jon, but i wonder how it is that you call my work crap but you have never seen any thing i have done ?there are lots of planes up there with my parts over your head. plz run for cover...the mount is now not for sale .
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Need Plans Section II Book for Cozy Mk IV
steve replied to DiscoveryIsland's topic in Wanted to Buy (or Borrow)
that is good to hear.where are you in the build and would you show us some of your work ? i cant work on mine right now and need some one to pick on whilst i wait for me to build a new shop(i get the approved plans from the city today). -
i dont have the pics on this site, if you look at canard avition or canard forum you will find what you seek:p i have a 20b and dont need the mount.
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it said all that in the book, so i left it out.but i think (cuz i did it) you can drill first and bed it down with flox and glass then just leave the bolts in the holes or snug them as long as you get the tubes right on the wall as-per-plans and i do have a shim ,it is 1/8 at one end and 1/32 at the other. and the shape is the same as the Axel mount.
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i just did all that, not to bad just get the flat close set up the eye jig just like the plans say to do it. i used the eye tube held up to the leg and checked the alignment on the wall. then i clamped the axel on and put the eye tube in the inner flange and the outer flange. the worst part for me was drilling the holes straight all the way through. the start was fine but the exit was way off. so later I'll re drill and flox i think the plans way is cheep and fast and free...and fun i did mine with no help.
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that's a good point, dust had me use pvc on the strake leading edgei had no idea you went so wide T, are you going to shrink your elevators or make your canard bigger ?
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that was my thoughts as well, but do i change out the rotters for the 9.7 or go with the 9.0 ?
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yup, just finished the deal for the 20b and the cg mount.just about a year now without my cigarettes:D i dont have a scale(90% of life still in storage)but the last time i got wighted in was on a big scale where i got the wing foam and it said 155:confused: i figure 5# per month, but for how long ?? ps, i eat all the time now:bad:
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thx Chris, I'll jump on it. i got time yet and i need the shop built but no point in waiting till the last minute get out your pencils and try to follow me on this one........ IF i need to cut, here's my thoughts don't touch the fuel tanks but rather cut around them so i could pull on the nose of the plane and make it longer ? the cut mite go like this, start at the upper long, wait this cant work wow there is so much stuff in the way...hum gullwing? fhc? air brake? seat back? fuel lines? control stick's? EEKKKKKK i getting dizzy now. OK regroup....150#over will need how much in the nose? any body? I'm up to 150 now that i don't smoke (can we say fat)lol so that will help
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i am looking for any info as per the install wight of a 20b and was wondering if i need the 2 turbos it came with? what hp should i be shooting for ? i am willing to cut the tub and add to the center how much? i think 400# and 240 hp with no turbos and low com. roters? this is a big step for me and my cozy much thank you to all who partiapate any links to a flyer would be cool
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i think you had dried finger prints in the glass before you started i get them because my gloves are covered with epoxy when i play with the roll or you mite have had the roll taped in that spot pulling on the cloth, its hard to see after you lay it out with epoxy.....just guessing here. i have gotten over 100 bumps and whatnots from top to bottom, all were easy to fix and or cover with micro-primer-paint.
