argoldman

Hans, Although there is usually one EGT that usually runs hotter in a specific installation, EGT is merely an indirect measure of the combustion efficiency in a cylinder. This relates to the fuel air mixture and a bunch of other things effecting the burning of that mixture including swirrling of the mixture as it traverses the induction system and the ability of the gasolene not to condense out on the runners. If the assumption is made that the intake system is absolutely smooth without friction, and the carburetor or injection system mixes the entire mass of air with the same amount of vaporized or atomized air at all throttle settings (remember there is a butterfly in both the injected and carbureted engines) then the assumption that the hottest EGT would be on the same cylinder all of the time would be correct. It is not! ----Wait---- The hottest cylinder to which you refer is the hottest CHT, not EGT. That is a product of cooling air, essentially, not necessarily directly related to the combustion process. It is possible for the hottest EGT to be in the cylinder with the coolest CHT, although in reality probably not likely. The answer may be somewhere between. The only way you can tell exactly what is going on-- If you want-- to is with multi probes.

In theory this is correct, but which cylinder is the hottest?? The hottest Cyl can change due to power settingsand other factors, both normal and abnormal. The real advantage (other than LOP operations) is that looking at each cylinder, you can many times diagnose ignition, injection, etc problems with a glance to the instrument. A full egt/cht unit can sometimes indicate pending problems before they become critical--- That is, of course if one looks at it and understands the meaning of what is being measured and what variations of the data means. On the other hand, if you have no desire other than to lean to roughness and then enrich slightly, you don't need an EGT at all. CHT (on one cylinder, I think, is required, however

Bring back Whitworth

Greetings Don, You have entered the world of the short canards, although all are welcome. (dragonflies have equal length wings and canards) The best place for this is to send it to the dragonfly newsgroup at <Dragonflylist@yahoogroups.com>. I believe that Jeff LeTempt runs that list. Good luck. The dragonfly kit, if it is a kit (made by Task) rather than just a bunch of materials is somewhat rare and worth marketing. The Hapi Engine has had a checkered, not terribly hapi past and will need work to get it into good shape. If the "Kit" is only a bunch of fiberglass and foam (and not the pre-formed fuselage) you would probably do better to sell the materials locally. The epoxy resin will probably be useless in any case. Talk to Jeff.

Two upside-down minds with the same thought

I woluld make one modification of the above mentioned trim/spring mechanism. That is to mount the assembly so that the hoop spring is down from the mounting points rather than up. In the mounting orentation, as drawn, it is possible that a breakage of the spring failure could, under the right circumstances get jamed due to the segments being drawn down by gravity. The segment, shorter now, has less flexion and might cause a problem (there is not a lot of levarage in the roll aspect of the control stick.) Mounted with the loop dependant, any fracture would allow both remaining ends to fall away from not only eachother but all of the other mechanism. The roll trim is used principally to correct for the added weight of the passenger or if you have a R/L tank setup, asymetric fuel load. Not used a lot in flight, but necessary. You could achieve the same effect without servos by using a push-pull cable, a lever, and a means of friction for the lever fo example that used in the plans. Instead of the springs and cables, you need to fix the shield end to a non-movable point, the central cable to the lever. At the other end, fix the shield where the servo goes, and use the cable (with, appropriate fittings,) in the same manner as the output shaft of the servo. What you will gain using the manual system is weight, complexity, and it could end up nearly the cost of the electric system. Another approach, that I have seen on Veri-ezs is a small hinged trim tab on one aileron which is actuated by a small trim motor. There is also a manufactrued device, similar, called, I think EZ TRIM. Keep those wings level (or change your AH and T&B to match what you have.

That really depends on how much you like your steel tools, or anything in your workshop that is made of corrosable metal. Cycling between above freezing and below freezing weather causes the moisture inthe workshop (when it is warm) to condense on the cold metal and institute corrosion. I keep my hanger at a constant 40F. Since it is 45 minutes away from my home or 1:45 from my office, I can, via telephone, kick the temperature to 70F so that it is warm when I get there. If anybody wants to know my technique, I will publish it.

Couldn't couldn't couldn't agree agree agree with with with you you you more more more (redundancy)!!!!!!!. You only have to look at certified craft with eifs, ie diamond, Cirrus etc. They all have steam gauges (AH,ASI etc) as backup. If my memory serves me correctly, although you can't get into the cockpits of carriers, since 9/11, there was also a steam gauge AH among all of those television tubes!

Jonathan, By the time you are ready for that equipment, competition will have driven the price down.The older technology (today's) will probably be available at the same or lower price than it is available for today. The desirability of glass panels has just become a reality recently, and the manufacturers are seeing what the market will bear. Things will probably sort themselves out. We saw that happen with Loran, GPS, and in the past, transponders, encoders (I still have one that I paid about 700 for 20 years ago.) The first small eifs, Sandal, was about 8 grand a few years ago. Look at the new portable garmin (396), now for under 3K that has many more features If you don't install the equipment relatively rapidly after you get it, you may have warrenty problems. You may be paying for necessary upgrades along the line, and the model that you buy today may be discontinued, due to some fatal flaw in its design which only shows up after a few years in the field or necessary software upgrades nonexistant . BUT, I can certainly see your side. You may get a unit that will remain unchanged or have continuing support, at todays prices to find that it indeed has sky rocketed. I have a friend that got a Chelton unit that way. Unfortunately he has spent the better part of a year getting it to work. (new software after new software, replacement of certain electronics etc. Seems to have gotten it working now, after a lot of effort and time.

When you register your craft, you will not use the name Long-eZY but will put your name or some other moniker in front of it. Such as Dave-LongEZ. What you call it is immaterial. Who was Mr Cirrus or Lancair, or for that matter Mr EZ.

Of course if your are left handed------ in the words of the immortal Rosana Rosanadana, "Never Mind!"

Greetings STD! Doing that may not be too much of a problem. Increase the size of the center console, add bushing blocks as the sides, bring the tubing through the firewall and connect. The problems here are that the central console now needs to be wider and taller.. Yes you can make the arm rest smaller on the pilots side, but that would orentate him closer to the side and give little room to rest his/her free arm, and the glutius maximus spread area is small enough in these craft. You sit in the seat rather than on it. A bigger problem is controling the stick in various situations. With a stick in the middle of your legs, access to it is pretty easy by both hands. With the stick in the center console, flying with the right hand is a cinch, however when you need to change radio freqs, adjust the DG for precession, change fuel tanks, or write down clearances, you must grab the stick cross chest with your left hand. Canard planes are, by nature very sensitive in a pitch axis and must be flown with very small stick movements. One of the best ways to do this is to rest your forearm on a cusheon, using only the small muscles of your forearm to control the stick. When you reach over with your left hand to control the craft, you loose the opportunity to finely control the craft and have potential oscillitatory challenges with pitch (remember John Denver). Additionally, when your left arm is across your chest, wrist bent to approximate the control stick, there is little room for the right hand to write on something which also has little room to sit in a somewhat horizontal position. Aalso where you going to put the engine controls so that they are accessable to both sides (if that is important to you). Methinks it's a bad Idea. Get thee to a stickery!! In Spam cans with control wheels, most of IFR flying is done with left hands to keep the right free. An indication of this is that the cirrus, & columbia both use outside side sticks, as well as airbus and many military planes. Additionally, if you use a side opening canopy, the central stick is in a great position for possible damage, as well as being in a position for damaging a passenger at ingress of egress. But it can be done!! Think carefully about this change. Had central stick in my dragonfly. The one main change that I would have made is to relocate it to the left side. It would have made flying much more enjoyable. I don't mean to imply that the plans as drawn are faultless-- far from it, but before you change something, try to think of all of the possible reasons that the design is as it is, and what the concequences will be if changed. "What if "is a great game to play and may save you much grief. That being said, if you want a central stick, stick it where you want to. It's your baby!! My $1.52 Rich

If your are concerned with leaving the peel ply on by accident, After cure cross hatch it with a felt tip pen.

Do not remove the peel ply until just before you are going to use the part. The peelply is somewhat of a protector from dust, and stuff that is floating around your shop, and resists contamination by hand oils, grease etc. Plus there is no reason to remove it until needed. When you are going to remove it, after removal sand the areas to be bonded lightly with 36 grit sandpaper (very easy because of the peel ply) and bond. There is some controversy as to whether the sanding is even necessary.

Over the past 20 or so years, I have done business with both ACS, Wicks and other independant suppiers of things aeronautical. I have found ACS and spruce to be about equal in order accuracy and packing ability, that is to say, reasonably good and willing to correct errors that happen. I have found that there are minor differences in the stock they each carry, for example Triaxial cloth is unavailable or unfindable in the catalog from ACS but is listed at Wicks. My experience has been that I find ACS order takers more knowledgable and professional than their counterparts at Wicks, and thus prefer to deal with them. They are less folksy, however. Ocassionally you will get an order taker that had an argument with a spouse, and you will be the recipient of "bad Karma". I find the wicks people more willing to help you save shipping money by suggesting the best way to cut large articles to avoid over size charges. At OSH this year, when looking for wheels and brakes, armed with stock numbers and actual product brochures from matco, I approached the Wicks Booth to get a quote. I was met by a charming young (of course most people are now young to me) lady who with a blank stare looked at me and after looking through various books that she had there, including their catalog, wrote the Wicks number on a business card and suggested that I call a specific person there.She was unable to help me nor was she able to get the information from home office. Strange that this should happen at the premier airshow for their client base... I then went to ACS, gave them the same number, and in a matter of minutes, since some conversion had to be done, got a quote and ordered the set on the spot. Unfortunately, I was not surprised by the difference between the two operations. I still deal with both, however my inclination is toward ACS, if they carry the item. Since I live in Illinois, the increased shipping is usually offset by the savings in tax.

If it is of any help in orentation, In the aerocanard, the firewall is cut out as one solid piece, the foam (for lightening purposes is placed into the appropriate area as are the aluminum engine mount hardpoints) when your firewall is totally assembeled the outside borders will be smooth and will fit into the confines of your fuselage and turtle deck. The Cozy uses 4 pieces and the foam internal for ease of construction. The result is the same.

Greetings Der, Another approach would be make a stagger cozy MK IV converted to a 3 1/2 place with the front seats staggered to give shoulder room. We used to do that in my Mooney. You would then have 1 full size back seat, and 1 for a shortie. W&B should be no problem with that change. Additionally you will have the preception of a regular length nose from one seat and an extended nose from the other seat. your problem with two side by siders is not the seat width, although somewhat small. Removal of the center console will give some but room but will do nothing to increase the shoulder room that two brutes need. If you do take out the center console, make sure that you think of how you will get heat to the back seat and engine controls back to the engine.

you may be a perfect canadate for a teflon hinge insert and rod, Rod. I don't know the website off hand, but look for links on this and canard community for "teflon" My understanding is that you remove the pin, insert the teflon and insert a new supplied pin. That might solve your problem in an easy elegant fassion Saving a lot of work hinges on hour finding that link

I thought of one possible reason for not making the rudders full length, however it keeps fluttering out of my conciousness

rn, you cna get some Parker-51 log time in building by simply pouring epoxy on your nicest shirt --- no one will ever know Welcome to the group. The way to eat an elephant (or build an aircraft) is---- one bite at a time!!

Janathan, Free advice is usually too costly, however, if you are just at your tub-- hold off. Avionics, and for that matter engines, are changing so rapidly that it is almost like buying a computer. I can almost guarentee you that by the time you are ready to fly, there will be a box that is lighter, cheaper and does many more functions, including those that you can't even think of now. This comes from someone who for a previous homebuilt bought a Garmin 812(loran), had it converted to an 816 (loran) and traded that in on a GX55(gps) which was the only radio to fly. I also had a 196 garmin (the flying brick) sold that to get a 296 and drool over a 396. Knowing that my aerocanard won't be ready for at least 1 1/2 years, I am holding off--- Anybody looking for a very slightly used 296?

Spoke to Jan (Eggen...) the other day and at OSH. They have a 6 banger that they are testing and cooling proofing on their Defiant. I assume he meant the rear engine) He claims that he will be able to provide a FW back for the COZY. Be advised that this engine requires a constant speed (or variable pitch) prop. He hates IVO props. He also mentioned that they are developing a bolt-on supercharger for that engine-- Very interesting!!!!!

Greetings Stuck Some good news. Unlike store bought aircraft, the owner or anybody else for that matter has full authorization to do any maintainence, rebuilding, modifying or virtually anything on the aircraft,--- with the exception of the conditional inspection. That must be done by the person that has the repairman's certificate, specifically for that airplane, or someone with, at minimum, and A&P license. Of course the new owner must abide by the limitations in the issued airworthiness certificate. If you are buying an existing craft, look closely at the limitations of that aircraft. These are generally custom done (from a basic template) and the ones for the aircraft in which you are interested, may be onerous to you. Get your wrenches, paintbrushes, epoxy and old expendable clothes ready!!!

The beauty of the MGS system is that you can control the working/settings of the resin by varying the relative amounts of fast to slow hardener. In the beginning, and for large layups, you can use mostly the slow setting hardener. As you get more familiar with the material and make relatively smaller parts you can add more fast set and cut your curing time. You can custom taylor it by keeping only a small amount of hardener mixture in your pump. If you want a faster setting mixture, add more fast set, for a slower set, add more slow set. Your pump will meter out the correct ratio of base to hardener (actually misnomers coming from vinyl esters), as will your scale, or any thing else you decide to use to get the proper ratio. Faster setting is desirable if you like to knife trim your layups-- you don't have to wake up in the middle of the night after a 7 hour cure to cut and then go back to bed. I am using a 50/50 mix of MGS hardeners(fast/slow) (system 285), in a hanger at about 80-95 F. The epoxy is kept at approx 100 F in the pump box. This gives me plenty of time to do bulkheads, gear, etc. You must be careful not to let the stuff sit in the mixing cup, after mixing, as it will exotherm, sometimes within 10 minutes, and harden. Mixing micro will slow this down, however flox doesn't have as good an effect. Prepare, mix and use immediately. The faster you can get it out of the cup and on the glass or foam, the longer will be your working time (for any epoxy) Glass dismissed!!

A word of semi-caution with fans in workshops, especially for those of us in the colder climes (at least periodically cold). When I was building my first glass plane, I used a window fan in my basement shop drawing air in from the rest of the house and venting it to the outside. This worked well for a good part of the year ( I started in the spring, at that time). As hapapens in Chicago toward september and october the weather started to cool down and it was time to light the pilot of my furnace which had extinguished itself, but I had not noticed it since no heat was required for the previous months. I lit the pilot without incident. When I cycled the thermostat to test the burners, I saw flames shooting out of the furnace . I quickly shut off the gas (the fireproof walls surrounding the furnace did their job). Not believing what I had seen, I tried it again with the same results. Then I committed the first cardinal sin of a homebuilder-- I called a professional, a furnace guy! Said guy came looked over my furnace, finding it in good working order, other than the presenting symptoms, checked the draft of my chimney.-- The damn thing was drafting in reverse. After consultation with him as to a cure, the only thing he could think of was that there was some kind of restriction in the chimney itself and they would have to dismantle it brick by brick and rebuild it!! After I told him to pound morter into his chimney, I looked at the situation in a calmer light. What I found was that the Fan that was exhausting the air out out my workshop was actually drawing its air supply down the chimney, through the furnace. Because it was also getting air from the rest of the house, the CO developed by the intermittent water heater cycling was mixed with ambient air and exhausted outside and caused no problems. I shudder to think what might have been had I assumed the furnace was working properly, turned the thermostat to heat and been away when the furnace started to cycle. The solution was easy, I opened a window on the other side of the basement and allowed the air to flow easily during times of layups and turned the fan off at other times.