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argoldman

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About argoldman

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 04/28/1944

Personal Information

  • Real Name (Public)
    Rich Goldman
  • Location (Public)
    Northbrook, IL

Flying Information

  • Flying Status
    various

Project/Build Information

  • Plane
    AeroCanard (SB/FG/RG/SX)
  • Plane (Other/Details)
    AEROCANARD SX
  • Plans Number
    50
  • Chapter
    various

Contact Methods

  • City
    Northbrook
  • State/Province
    IL
  • Country
    United States

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  1. argoldman

    Cozy Jet

    That's gregg Richter (of blue Mountain fame)'s plane
  2. argoldman

    redundancy

    True, with respect to redundancy, you only need one more of an indispensable item (or system) than the number you had before they all failed.
  3. Phil, I may be talking totally out of my landing gear here, since it has been a couple of years since I mounted Jack's gear, but I think that using the original holes, for the manual gear, you locate the additional holes using the aluminum bracket that holds the motor assembly. Using this technique, you can locate the holes and do your hardpoints before assembling the box structure. Just make sure that when you do assemble the box that you first bolt, with spacers from one side to the other so that the holes on each side of the box are in proper relation to each other. I used this same technique, once I drilled my landing gear bulkheads using the wood 90 degree guides, before glassing them in. I made aluminum rods, tapped at each end, the exact length as I wanted the spacing to be, and glassing into the fuselage was a simple matter of taking both bulkheads (connected by these rods), leveling and squaring the whole mechanism and then bonding it in place See attached pictures (If I can get them to work). Makes life and alignment easy.
  4. If you can do #4 from the front seat, you are a better man than I:cool:
  5. Perhaps I am looking at this the wrong way (which is not unusual for today). It seems, in the pictures that your heat exchanger is mounted to the seat front from which it draws air from the cabin, under one thigh or another. The seat top, itself, with the bulkheads and the fuselage bottom acts as a plenum. Your axial fan creates a negative pressure in the plenum, drawing air through the heater core and a positive pressure in the duct to heat the rest of the plane through the plans type plumbing. Here's my quandary. If the axial fan draws air through the core, there will be a negative pressure in the plenum with respect to the outside air, because of the resistance of the air going through the heater core. Opening your chromated plate will only allow outside non-heated air to be pulled into the plenum and be distributed. It will not dump heated air overboard unless the shape of your bottom creates some sort of venturi effect which creates more negative pressure than does the axial fan. That being said, Your workmanship puts me to shame. It looks beautiful. In the future, would you please send pictures that are slightly out of focus to make me feel better.
  6. Interesting question. If I were to use the click-bonds, I would put them on the inside of the firewall, through the firewall. One would hope that the adhesive that you use would counteract the torque of tightening the bolts. Perhaps if you modify the shape of the flange and flox/glass over them. I chose to use stainless steel thingies, from the ACE or True Value aircraft store that are designed to go through wood and provide a metal threaded recepticle. They have a flange with a female thread (kind of like a "T") and the flange has 3 tines which are driven into the firewall (from the inside). These have no locking ability so that I will have to use Locktite (and safety wire). One of the reasons that I chose to do this (mounted from the inside) is that your SS firewall material (or what ever metal you decide to use) will be primarily held to the firewall, sandwiching the Fiberfax, by the through the firewall bolts of the engine mount, the pulleys, and all of the other things that you bolt onto the firewall.
  7. Phil, I may be talking out of my innertube here, but I seem to remember that there were two types of nosewheels available. One from Ken brock, that I think was in more than two parts (I have never seen one) and the Gerdies wheel that was available from ACS. Why don't you send a picture to us so that we can identify it. The bolts on a wheel are somewhat important as you will be blowing about 70# of pressure into that little bladder. I think that in the railroad business they use much less pressure than that to lift railroad cars back onto the track. You don't want a failure here as it will probably happen on landing. The bolts are probably AN3 or 4s but make sure. If it is the Gerdies, the Cozy Girlllllllllllls have a lot of experience as they take the sow's ear that was provided by the Gerdies factory and with a little machining, create a silk purse.
  8. Congratulations Chris. Now you have a co-pilot. Wait for the time when your child comes to you and asks, "Dad, I have a date tonight, mind if I take the velo???":eek:
  9. It boils down to time spent sanding . Shaping and sanding with 40G is very rapid and takes relatively little effort. After the 40 is done, a coat of aeropoxy light, using the high points of the prior sanding merely the areas on each side of the "scratch left by the 40 grit, just filling in the scratches requires very little post application sanding with 8o then finer. Don't know how much added weight that adds, --probably none-- since if you build up, sand down then sand finer and finer, you end up with the same surface, It's just a matter of building it from the inside rather than sanding it away from the outside. For what it's worth, this technique served me well on my dragonfly and the wings of my cozy (still waiting for the final coat and sanding). "you say either and I say Ether":cool:
  10. Agreed, I've been doing 40 grit and then a top and/or fill layer of Aeropoxy light, down to finer. What high build epoxy primer are you recommending???
  11. Steve is a great guy and sells great products and ideas, but remember that he is a VW seller and may have a prejudice against competitors. This is not specific to Steve but is rampant in the aircraft (and many other) business. There is probably a Corvair website where the information is more reliable (or possibly slanted the other way.) I know that there are a few dragonflies that are switching from the VW to Corvair. Perhaps listening in on the D-fly list would give you more info.
  12. argoldman

    The ideal panel

    REDUNDANCY!!!!!!REDUNDANCY!!!!!!REDUNDANCY!!!!!!REDUNDANCY!!!!!! with no single point failure spot. Even if you don't plan to do much IFR, if a failure happens there, it is 100% and your survival might depend on either redundant instruments or your ability to use partial information to ascertain that the oily side is down. If you don't do much instrument work, the probability of this is slim. This, of course does not imply that you need 2 of everything.
  13. Contact William Wynne, the Corvair/aviation expert. (although not specifically for EZs
  14. Great, and Wecome Getting the spousal permission is a great step forward, keeping it will require a little work. If you have access to a bird, or ever find yourself in the Chicago area, I am building an Aerocanard in Kenosha Wi (just over the IL/Wis Border, at the airport. I would love to show you, or any others my project. Good luck with your venture-- uh-- Cozy
  15. As said before, the aircraft bolt is not a grade 8. Specific stats can be found in the ASS catalog or just google An-?? The metal in these bolts is tested and certified to specific strength numbers. Grade 8 is a somewhat brittle metal and may vary bolt to bolt. The aircraft bolt will stretch before it separates, not so with the more brittle grade 8. Additionally, the threads are rolled, not cut which adds more strength to the bolt. The length of the thread and grip is also specified. The quality, size and metallurgy is constant and they are Cad plated.

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