argoldman

YABUT YABUT Is it possible that someone bought the fuselage, shipped it to CA and is selling it from there?? Is it also possible that the seller in CA is selling it for Larry in Bristol (a suburb of Kenosha WI???) This Enquiring mind wants to know??? The picture looks much like one that Larry showed me when I started building my Aerocanard about 3 years ago-- but then breathing MGS (or is it MSG-had Chinese last night) fumes for all these years destroys synapses by the millions!

I wonder if that is not one of the ones made by Larry Fitzgerald. I know that he was playing around with similar designs several years ago.

The ND probably stands for Nippon-Denso, the manufacturer.

Now that's information worth Waitering for. Thanks Waiter. I am now going to have to design a "curing oven and supports for my wings. :sad:

Ya, what you said. However the real question is, "is the un-postcured structure strong enough for our application and is post-curing guilding the beautiful lilly?" Those of you flying these birds can do us all a service by sharing some info such as: 1. Did you post cure your bird and if so, what parts,how did you do it 2. # of hours and years your aircraft has been flying 3. Normal ambient temperature in which your plane is kept 4. Hangered or non-hangered 5. If not post-cured have you noticed any problems due to the structure My uneducated guess is that most of the planes flying have not been post cured. Is this a case of numerical one-upsmanship or is this a real concern. (Is it important that a tweeter can give 25K Hz when the human hearing limit is much less). If it is a concern, why do we not see these planes falling from the sky, in gooy pieces:confused: On the other hand, do we all need to be very concerned about post-curing of specific or all of the parts:sad:

If you are going to post cure, either by oven, plastic (black in the colder climates), watercoloring the part black etc. Make sure that you support the thing you are curing. It may take a set. The original dragonfly had it's wheels at the outside of the 22' canard. It was noticed, on the prototype, that the propeller got closer and closer to the ground as time went on. The cure was to heat the wings near the root and jig it so that the anhedral was restored.

don't you see that the props are driven by a common shaft that goes into the fuselage where it is powered by a conical very long and small in diameter new generation Innodyne-Zoche collaboration:bad:

Just a suggestion, If you are somewhat interested in the Kit or some of the prefab parts, get the Videos that Al has available. They refer mainly to the kit. They will either light your fire or send you on smouldering. If on you go, I'm sure that they will have a resale value so you can recoup some of your loss. Reading plans is one thing, seeing it done, is another.

Punk and rap made my parts brittle I'll take stevie and Folk music (dates me more) Persue persue

Your Eminence, It is neither the pusher nor the canard configuration you should be wary about with your TT. It is your TT and flying experience and the speed capability of our birds, and your expecting to utilize an aircraft for "gottagethere" flights, that you and those that care about you, as well as perhaps some on the ground should fear. My guess is that all of your cross countries have been relatively local in decent VFR weather. You've got a lot of things to contend with when flying cross country with a purpose. The main one, in your case, is that with your relative lack of experience (and I don't mean to sound like I am downing you-- we've all been there) you may know what you can do with an aircraft, but not knowing what you can't do, weather,terrain, etc.--wise is where the danger is. Sure get a pusher, get checked out in it, become proficient in it. Then fly it in ever increasingly long CC WHEN YOU DON'T HAVE TO BE ANYWHERE AT A SPECIFIC TIME, to get the knowledge and experience that most old pilots have. Fly some long Cross countries in all kinds of weather with a good instructor. Gethomeitis or Gethereitis has killed many a pilot. The risk is exponentially increased with lack of experience. Aircraft are not specifically dangerous, they are just very unforgiving. In the immortal words of Don Rumsfeld (who's that, by jiminy?), There are things that you know (which you now know). There are things which you don't know (some of which you now know) Then there are the things (probably the majority) which you don't have a clue that you don't know. These are the dangerous things which become known as you fly and make mistakes from which you recover. It is my conviction after teaching for many years that one does not learn from his/her successes--you may just have been @#$ lucky. You learn from your mistakes. GOOD JUDGMENT IS BASED ON EXPERIENCE AND EXPERIENCE IS BASED ON BAD JUDGMENT:p . Buy the plane but be careful as you expand the mission envelope. Off of my creaking soap box now!!!

I used to listen to Rush and Shawn while I built, but I found that when I did, none of my parts came out true:bad:

In the cold weather, I listen to any station that I am able to get with my small radio in my closed hanger. Warm weather with the door open, NPR and classical, the anti-rushanity and occasionally straying to Oldies an/or show tunes.

Not an engine out, but on a flight between Beef Island BVI and San Juan PR Over the ocean in an Islander, me in the co-pilot seat, flight at about 3k, I noticed the distinctive smell of burning electrical wire. The young pilot turned off all of the radios, let them cool for a while and then turned on one nav and one com. The smell did not return. I thought it inappropriate to talk at that time, however when arriving at San Juan, and deplaning, I quietly said to the pilot--"nice handling of that radio fire." He winked

I don't know about your F28, but mine is rather flexible. Doubling it although making it less flexible still retains a lot of flex.; Now lesssee--- You got a semi-flexible member (??? no comments) on which you are putting a hinge device which contains lower lips to which are connected two pneumatic cylinders, each producing about 100 PSI (because of the small lever arm necessitated by the hinge construction.) The other ends of these cylinders are connected forward to F22 or whatever, also a somewhat flexible (although doubled) structure, and then you close The canopy. The pneumatic cylinders will try to push F22 forward (in the middleish) and the F28 backwards (in the middleish because they are connected to the hinges. The canard lift tabs are connected to F22 which will ad some resistance, but the lift tabs, instead of resisting mainly vertical forces, in their normal state, now must resist bending forces also, as f22 flexes. The entire assembly is subjected to engine and flight vibrations, seemingly making things worse. Now any change in the dimension between F28 and where the canopy hits the longerons or front of the rear turtle will result in binding or chafing or not fitting. I am full of questions about this approach as I would like to use it but see many downfalls to it. Please understand that this evaluation is from an armchair engineer (more of the dental persuasion) with little true engineering training. As a matter of fact the armchair that I designed lost it's arms. Marc, or other engineer types, bail me out, or put my concerns to rest. My slide rule is rusty. Thanx, Rich

I gotta dumb question: What about just making a glide slope (foil) antenna nested on the bottom of the canard. They are quite small. Any splitter is going to decrease the signal to your receiver which means less range. The cost of the foil antenna is restricted to the BNC fitting and foil. You could probably get the foil from someone who has put these type of antennas in already.

Your hinge looks beautiful. I do have a question, however: What kind of diamond saw are you going to use go cut your radios down to size without injuring the electronics??? (especially when your canopy is open) Seriously, When considering an alteration of this type, it is a good idea to think about 10 steps ahead. In my bird, the radios fit in a stack there and the radio rack is bolted to F28 which makes the instrument panel much stiffer. Additionally, the F28 at that point is rather flexible. You might need to consider significant reenforcement to keep the canopy from "fighting with and winning" with it. When the hinges are at the outside, several angular layers of glass, tying the bulkhead to the sides give adequate strength.

To compare apples to apples, compare the velocity to the aerocanard. Both are kits.

Especially when it is potted as it is in epoxy/micro

OOOOOH, Would that the cost of an engine is restricted to it's purchase price. If you are lucky and fly the engine a lot, it may reach its TBO, typically, you must, at some time replace the expendable cylinders and many times many of the other things that you already bought. Although these engines (aircraft) are reasonably good, they are running at the limits of their structure (many times) and must be constantly maintained. Cylinders, pistons, et al, are, in these beasts, considered expendable.or sometimes repairable and then expendable. How many times has Lycoming changed the gears on it's oil pump. How many crankshafts have been replaced?

Phil, Perhaps you or others can help me out. I have never understood the purpose of the foil.: I use 1mil poly, draw the pattern on it, wet the glass and refine cloth/epoxy ratio over that, the lines come through (if you use black Sharpie-- not blue), put another layer of 1 mil on top of that, pat down-creating a wet glass sandwich with poly bread and trim with dritz. Bring the sandwich to the spot, remove one of the pieces of plastic bread, push into place then remove the other. Stipple a little and you are done. (lightly epoxy the recipient site, of course.) What advantage is the foil???????

Since my wife is a big cyclist, I am going to mount two of those razor-blade type seats back there to make her feel at home. On a less serious note, how does one get out of the back seat in one of these beasts. In the VE or LE, you grab a handful of longeron, a little skyhook and you are free. That's difficult with only one longeron in reach. My duct is quite small, and I am trying to design a way to make ingress and egress somewhat easier for both front and back. Perhaps I will build both up, or have a swing down rest for these purposes. Any ideas?? Once in great, once out great it is the transition that is the killer.

Gelcoat would be a great thing for aircraft externals (assuming the above is correct) if only were it not for the fact that we epoxy "things" to the outside as the buildup progresses. Thus we have to fill and recoat. The process involved in making the aerocanard parts is, rather than using Gel-coat, to spray the waxed mold with epoxy primer, let it cure slightly and then lay up the glass. This gives a great thin finish of primer which can easily be sanded off for further bonding or be somewhat roughened for final finishing.

Greetings Hard, That all depends on who inspects it and where. My prior glass plane was inspected only once and that was when it was completely finished painted, and ready to fly. My current DAR says that that is what he will do now, however he says that he is available if I want more inspections. Others may have not had the same luck. My suggestion is that you contact your FSDO or DAR and have a glass to glass conversation with respect to what they want to see and how they want to see it, ie in pictures or in person. Keep a complete photographic record of each piece and assembly. Since glass is fairly new, they don't seem to know a lot about it's inspection. One of the main inspections in a fibreglass composite is the quarter test. In this, you tap a quarter on the structure and are able to tell by sound if there is a delam. Have that talk, however. Having an EAA technical adviser or several might be helpful here, also. Enjoy your build!

Rvig, If you are really paranoid about them spinning, there are at least two options. 1. grind one or more flats on the circumference of the clickbond before you put your glass overlays. (use a little flox) 2. drill a 3/32" or a 1/8" hole through the clickbond into the firwall, or what ever structure you are clickbonding onto. countersink it and place an appropriate rivet into the hole. No need to create a shop head, it is only for anti-torque. Then place your glass over that. In my plane, I drilled the appropriate holes and then enlarged them to accept a stainless steel thread insert (available at hardware stores) which is hammered into the wood, (has 3 tangs for antitorque) of the firewall, from the cockpit side. The pulleys are bolted through, from the engine side and either safetied (drilled heads) or locktitetd in place. There are many ways to screw------ skin a cat. Rich

Thinking about the elongation of the strut, a question comes to what is left of my mind. It seems as if the leverage on the nose attach points is quite huge in the standard arrangement. extending the gear can only increase the forces, possibly greatly. How will extending the nose strut, all on the wheel end influence the strength necessity of the attachment points/fixtures??? Has anybody who has done this experienced any difficulties in terms of problems with the gear???