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John Wells

Atkinson fuel guage installation

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I am currently ready to install the Atkinson fuel sight guages with the LED lights that I purchased with the guages. In the instructions, nothing is mentioned about where to run the wires that come off the LEDs. I would assume that they should be run inside of a small channel in the foam under the 2 layers of UNI, down and aft into the forward opening of the electrical channel. The wires can then be lengthened to run to the appropriate switch (cabin light/dimmer?). Does anybody have any comments or recommendations reguarding the direction that the wires should be run?

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Hi John,

I retrofitted Vance's balls and lights.

Keep in mind that the armrest and the torque tube runs along just below the sight gauge. I just put 1 ply of BID tape over the thin wires to get them down below the torque tube, then left them free. I butt spliced the connections. One of the wires goes back and through the spar to feed the other side, and the other goes forward to my Bob Nuckolls dimmer on the panel.

 

Hope this helps.


I can be reached on the "other" forum http://canardaviationforum.dmt.net

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I've just got the gauges (with lights).

 

Could anyone please explain what the next steps should be? I understand I have to carve a depression, but how deep and how long?

Am I going to install the gauges now (in chapter 5) or wait until later?

I'm obviously a bit confused here. I've tried to look in the archives as well as looking on other builders sites, but I can't find any details of this installation.

Thanks...


Erlend Moen
Norway
Cozy MK IV #1556 - Chapter 20
http://cozy.ljosnes.no

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I've just got the gauges (with lights).

 

Could anyone please explain what the next steps should be? I understand I have to carve a depression, but how deep and how long?

Am I going to install the gauges now (in chapter 5) or wait until later?

I'm obviously a bit confused here. I've tried to look in the archives as well as looking on other builders sites, but I can't find any details of this installation.

Thanks...

I would forget about those, they are from a day gone by. I thought about putting them in as a backup to the electronic one, but did not and have never seen the need for them. most of the engine instruments available today are electronic units that include fuel gauges in the package. there are many that are calibrated to the shape of the tank and are very accurate and dependable. the gauge is on the panel and in your face so you can see it all the time. most include a low level warning system. the sight gauges are hard to see from the cockpit and are prone to leak after time. I have seen many that gotten plugged have gotten soft from the fuel and with the future of aviation fuel additives being some what questionable they may too have an effect on the plastic.

Evolultion Eze RG -a two place side by side-200 Knots on 200 HP. A&P / pilot for over 30 years

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While I agree with Lynn, you may feel as others do that they provide a "backup".

Dont install them until you have your strakes on the airplane and can line them up with the interior bottom of the fuel strake. You can make the depression and angle it and all that then...or by then decide to not do them at all.

Options, options. =)


Self confessed Wingnut.

Now think about it...wouldn't you rather LIVE your life, rather than watch someone else's, on Reality T.V.?

Get up off that couch!!! =)

 

Progress; Fuselage on all three, with outside and inside nearly complete. 8 inch extended nose. FHC done. Canard finished. ERacer wings done with blended winglets. IO540 starting rebuild. Mounting Spar. Starting strake ribs.

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While I agree with Lynn, you may feel as others do that they provide a "backup".

....... as does the plans method. An area of glass-to-glass and use a strip of masking tape when you paint. That never wears out, leaks, etc.


T Mann - Loooong-EZ/20B Infinity R/G Chpts 18

Velocity/RG N951TM

Mann's Airplane Factory

We add rocket's to everything!

4, 5, 6, 7, 8. 9, 10, 14, 19, 20 Done

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....... as does the plans method. An area of glass-to-glass and use a strip of masking tape when you paint. That never wears out, leaks, etc.

but they do leak, we have seen many over the years that start to leak after time. the bond between the plastic and the epoxy is not that good . have seen several plugged ones also. you get what you pay for. if you buy a modern day engine panel today you will get a fuel gauge as part of the package. why would not use it? your spending $ 80,000 to build a plane with all high tech electronics and glass panel you will want a electronic gauge so you can have the gauges tied into the panel to cross reference the fuel totals with the fuel flow and the warning system.

Evolultion Eze RG -a two place side by side-200 Knots on 200 HP. A&P / pilot for over 30 years

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but they do leak, we have seen many over the years that start to leak after time. the bond between the plastic and the epoxy is not that good .

Lynn ...... we are on the same page here. The plans method is glass-to-glass ONLY. The fuel level is read through the transparancy of the glass.

 

No plastic sight gages required. Use the plans method if you desire some sort of fault tolerant backup.


T Mann - Loooong-EZ/20B Infinity R/G Chpts 18

Velocity/RG N951TM

Mann's Airplane Factory

We add rocket's to everything!

4, 5, 6, 7, 8. 9, 10, 14, 19, 20 Done

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Lynn ...... we are on the same page here. The plans method is glass-to-glass ONLY. The fuel level is read through the transparancy of the glass.

 

No plastic sight gages required. Use the plans method if you desire some sort of fault tolerant backup.

the original Long ez plans method is an even bigger waste of time. the epoxy will discolor ( darken ) in a short time and you won't see anything. with ez poxy forget it , with Mgs ok for longer but still hard to see

Evolultion Eze RG -a two place side by side-200 Knots on 200 HP. A&P / pilot for over 30 years

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Erland, I'll look for some pictures ... just reloading my crashed computer first.

 

It is actually easier than you think. simple as can be. :)


I live in my own little world! but its OK, they know me here!

Chris Van Hoof, Johannesburg, South Africa operate from FASY (Baragwanath)

Cozy Mk IV, ZU-CZZ, IO-360 (200hp) 70x80 prop

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would assume that they should be run inside of a small channel in the foam under the 2 layers of UNI, down and aft into the forward opening of the electrical channel. The wires can then be lengthened to run to the appropriate switch (cabin light/dimmer?). Does anybody have any comments or recommendations reguarding the direction that the wires should be run?

The wire-run can be very simple: through the armrest and then run with other wires to a switch up front. I do not use a dimmer since they are behind me and don't throw off much light. Just use an on/off switch.

 

I like the sight gauges: simple, reliable, accurate. Here is a little mirror I made from a piece of alum. tube and a mirror out of a girl's compact to see the guage behind me on my side of the airplane (I fly in the right seat).

post-89-141090169018_thumb.jpg


-Kent
Cozy IV N13AM-750 hrs, Long-EZ-85 hrs and sold

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You know, I just have to say the mirror thing is the second FUNKY aspect of the Eze planes that really felt prehistoric to me. Something about holding up a dentist mirror on a wand over ones shoulder to check the fuel levels just didnt make it for me. I will be signing up for the capacitance senders and the fuel info, etc on my EFIS, if you dont mind.

Oh, the second Funky...reading in a newsletter about Nat's suggesting to wear heated hunting socks and a heated vest and seven layers of thermals under your clothes to keep warm in winter whilst flying along. Nahh..Nada for me and mine.

Of course, as always, YMMV.


Self confessed Wingnut.

Now think about it...wouldn't you rather LIVE your life, rather than watch someone else's, on Reality T.V.?

Get up off that couch!!! =)

 

Progress; Fuselage on all three, with outside and inside nearly complete. 8 inch extended nose. FHC done. Canard finished. ERacer wings done with blended winglets. IO540 starting rebuild. Mounting Spar. Starting strake ribs.

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You know, I just have to say the mirror thing is the second FUNKY aspect of the Eze planes that really felt prehistoric to me. Something about holding up a dentist mirror on a wand over ones shoulder to check the fuel levels just didnt make it for me. I will be signing up for the capacitance senders and the fuel info, etc on my EFIS, if you dont mind.

Oh, the second Funky...reading in a newsletter about Nat's suggesting to wear heated hunting socks and a heated vest and seven layers of thermals under your clothes to keep warm in winter whilst flying along. Nahh..Nada for me and mine.

Of course, as always, YMMV.

ya, thats a bit like the alarm clock and hammer idea. you set the clock for the time you know you can fly before you will run out of gas. when the alarm clock goes off it releases the latch on the hammer and it swings forward and hits the pilot in the back of the head. the trick is for the pilot to remember why the hammer is hitting him in the head. just remember to label the hammer, the FAA will require it to be labeled

step away from the box of Mickey Mouse band aids and build a real airplane.

A square wheel !!!!!, Now there's an idea !!!!!. not sure it will work on a Cozy but maybe on a Long Ez


Evolultion Eze RG -a two place side by side-200 Knots on 200 HP. A&P / pilot for over 30 years

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... Something about holding up a dentist mirror on a wand over ones shoulder to check the fuel levels just didnt make it for me. I will be signing up for the capacitance senders and the fuel info, etc on my EFIS, if you dont mind. ...

Having flown with me, you know that I have capacitance fuel level senders (with alarms), fuel flow gauge with totalizer (with alarms), and the Atkinson fuel level gauges in the back. I can see one of them by turning my head, and the other with a small mirror I keep in the map pocket next to the stick.

 

For what - $45? they're tremendous backup for when your engine monitor croaks, or you just want to verify the fuel level (if for nothing else, when the plane's on the ground and the juice isn't on). they're extremely useful for a preflight - you just glance at them and know exactly how much fuel you've got.

 

Make fun of them all you want - I wouldn't be without them in the plane.

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.... you just want to verify the fuel level (if for nothing else, when the plane's on the ground and the juice isn't on). they're extremely useful for a preflight - you just glance at them and know exactly how much fuel you've got.

.....or, you can do like I do and open the cap.

(sorry Marc .... couldn't resist.)

 

When I sump my tanks, I always pour the fuel back in the tank and sight check the level at the same time. (that is .... if the fuel is good from the sump.) That's my little 'green' thing. Most likely a zero impact act.

 

I have a set of the lighted sight gages here. I have not decided if I'm going to install them or not. Obviously the price tag isn't a factor for this decision.


T Mann - Loooong-EZ/20B Infinity R/G Chpts 18

Velocity/RG N951TM

Mann's Airplane Factory

We add rocket's to everything!

4, 5, 6, 7, 8. 9, 10, 14, 19, 20 Done

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they're tremendous backup or you just want to verify the fuel level (if for nothing else, when the plane's on the ground and the juice isn't on). they're extremely useful for a preflight - you just glance at them and know exactly how much fuel you've got.

 

 

...and that, bingo, is the only reason I will have the Glass ones in my plane. Just the fiberglass window only, no balls and lights, nothing PVC or whatever those are made of that future fuel will possibly eat up and degrade.

BTW, was that a Shadin totalizer you had, and is that out of your panel now that you are Dynon EMS equipped? I think it was in when we went to RR, but The Dynon handles it, and I would imagine you would go with that. I could be wrong.


Self confessed Wingnut.

Now think about it...wouldn't you rather LIVE your life, rather than watch someone else's, on Reality T.V.?

Get up off that couch!!! =)

 

Progress; Fuselage on all three, with outside and inside nearly complete. 8 inch extended nose. FHC done. Canard finished. ERacer wings done with blended winglets. IO540 starting rebuild. Mounting Spar. Starting strake ribs.

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BTW, was that a Shadin totalizer you had, and is that out of your panel now that you are Dynon EMS equipped?

Yes.

 

I think it was in when we went to RR, but The Dynon handles it, and I would imagine you would go with that. I could be wrong.

Correct. But I still have the sight gauges as a backup. And seeing the fuel through the glass layup, especially with some of the older, darker epoxies, is non-trivial. The sight gauge makes it trivial.

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Yes.

 

Correct. But I still have the sight gauges as a backup. And seeing the fuel through the glass layup, especially with some of the older, darker epoxies, is non-trivial. The sight gauge makes it trivial.

With the light green MGS epoxy the glass layup is pretty transparent.


Self confessed Wingnut.

Now think about it...wouldn't you rather LIVE your life, rather than watch someone else's, on Reality T.V.?

Get up off that couch!!! =)

 

Progress; Fuselage on all three, with outside and inside nearly complete. 8 inch extended nose. FHC done. Canard finished. ERacer wings done with blended winglets. IO540 starting rebuild. Mounting Spar. Starting strake ribs.

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Yes.

 

Correct. But I still have the sight gauges as a backup. And seeing the fuel through the glass layup, especially with some of the older, darker epoxies, is non-trivial. The sight gauge makes it trivial.

With the light green MGS epoxy the glass layup is pretty transparent. ..and if somebody had used the older darker epoxy on the tub, they could always cut that area out and do a window in a lighter colored epoxy such as proset or Aeropoxy etc.

I really liked the Atkinson units and was going to put them in later, until reports of the balls getting stuck in them at a certain level started appearing, and that lead to questions of the plastic getting "sticky" from fuel additives and mogas etc. Who knows what future fuel will consist of? Leaving them out, but leaving the old fiberglass ply window seems the logical default position.


Self confessed Wingnut.

Now think about it...wouldn't you rather LIVE your life, rather than watch someone else's, on Reality T.V.?

Get up off that couch!!! =)

 

Progress; Fuselage on all three, with outside and inside nearly complete. 8 inch extended nose. FHC done. Canard finished. ERacer wings done with blended winglets. IO540 starting rebuild. Mounting Spar. Starting strake ribs.

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I had Atkinson fuel sites in my Longeze back in the early 90's they were my only source of fuel usage. They worked great. I had no leaks and I could see them really well. I also ran car gas but that was before this alcohol crap they are putting in it now. I am putting them in my present plane. I also have the lighted units. I consider them a necesarry back up to the probably Dynon unit I will also be installing with fuel floats and flow gauges and totlizers and all that other electric cool stuff. A guy I ran into at Osh with his brand new retractable was bragging about how he had a mirror on his wing to make sure his gear was retracted properly. I have no prolems installing a small mirror to check my fuel situation. Mirrors and site gauges are about as light and reliable as it gets. STeve build on


Steve Harmon

Lovin Life in Idaho

Cozy IV Plans #1466 N232CZ

http://websites.expercraft.com/bigsteve/

Working on Chapter 19,21

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I made mine out of plexiglass I machined a groove in a white piece of plexiglass, then glued a clear piece over the top of it.

 

I've been flying with these since 1996, and I use auto fuel extensively.

 

The clear as chenged to a slight brownish color, but the fuel is still clearly visable.

 

I also have the dynon and fuel sensors, but always refer back to the sight guages.

 

As for the Landing gear, I have a mark on the leading edge of the wing. If the gear upper door lines up with the mark, I know the main gear is down.

 

Waiter


F16 performance on a Piper Cub budget

LongEZ, 160hp, MT CS Prop, Downdraft cooling, Full retract

visit: www.iflyez.com

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Concerning the softening of the white plastic-like material in the commercially available fuel site gauges (of which I own a set). Can we use an altenate material... such as a piece of aluminum? What would a good material be for this? I could cut it out and drill two small holes in it, and use it instead of the white plastic piece. I don't know what type of fuel I will be using in the year 201x when this plane is ready to fly.


Andrew Anunson

I work underground and I play in the sky... no problem

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About the balls hanging up where the fuel level is not.... They do that because of static electricity, they are made from cork.  I have quit putting them in the kits.

 

Leaks... I've had mine for 28 years NO leaks, That's because they are installed properly.

 

The white plastic background is NOT compatible with enthanol laden fuel.  I have started sending out aluminium backgrounds now for pilots who insist on using that type of fuel.

 

The plans called for a glass to glass layup for a fuel window.  And it will work fine if your epoxy does not darken with age.  The ultra violet causes it to turn dark and you will not be able to see any kind of fuel levels very well, especially in low light conditions.  I use an STC'd fuel computer (Shadin) to keep track of my fuel remaining and do some long legged flights (LAX to DFW) which takes most all of the fuel available. 

 

vance atkinson

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Vance Atkinson

EAA Tech & Flt. Advisor

Cozy N43CZ 1600 hours TT

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