Jump to content

Kent Ashton

Verified Members
  • Content Count

    1,583
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    137

Everything posted by Kent Ashton

  1. For future reference Bruce, the FAA has ruled that federally-assisted airports must accommodate "maintenance, repair, refurbishment" and "construction" in their hangars. See rule here at page 39810 https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2016/06/15/2016-14133/policy-on-the-non-aeronautical-use-of-airport-hangars FAA Q and A here: https://www.faa.gov/airports/airport_compliance/hangar_use/ Airports do what they want unless persons are willing to fight for their rights. I am getting ready to file a 14 CFR Part 13 complaint on just this topic. Clearly, an airplane that is out-of-annual or under repair or refurbishment is not "airworthy" but those repairs must be accommodated.
  2. I am trying to generate some interest in a T-hangar partnership at a local airport near Charlotte with a long waiting list--Charlotte-Monroe Exec. KEQY. You chaps might be interested in the subject. In my experience, the major impediment to getting private hangars at federally-assisted pubic airports is "reversion" clauses where the hangar reverts to airport ownership in, say, 25 years, without any compensation. It doesn't have to be this way. As long as the airport can regain the property at will to make other airport improvements, the FAA will go along (I think). My preference is a buyout of the hangar owner or worst case, the hangar owner can remove the structure. See para 6.6a here https://www.faa.gov/airports/resources/publications/orders/compliance_5190_6/
  3. What is it about Nampa, Idaho? For years I have seen ads for aircraft kit sellers, airplanes and projects at this airport. Must be a hotbed of aviation. Look at all the hangars! When I die I want to go to Nampa 🙂
  4. https://groups.google.com/g/cozy_builders has members from Oz. If you PM me your email address I will cross post your inquiry and you might get lucky.
  5. The cozybuilders mail list has talked about hinges. A little searching here should bring up some discussion https://groups.google.com/g/cozy_builders
  6. Here is good guide for non-builders (below). 2006 vintage but still pretty good. There is a lot to know about the Rutan airplanes. Best not to find out the hard way. Fortunately, there is a lot of information out there. Two words: Pre-buy inspection! 🙂 LEZnon_builders.doc
  7. Suggest you look through this thread and it will give you an idea what projects sell for and what kind of condition you might see. https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/21972-sales-ive-seen/ $4k could be quite reasonable depending . . .. It costs a minimum of $25K-$30K to build one from scratch. I have posted what it cost me to build a Long-ez ($40K) in this thread but you'll have to search for the post https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/18661-kents-long-ez-project/?tab=comments#comment-27910 Foam does not go bad. Fiberglass is ok if it was kept dry and clean. Epoxy hardeners can get old. It would be best if you could hook up with a canard builder (Cozy, EZ, Vari) to look at the project. I am sure there are many in the Seattle area. There is a lot to know. I wouldn't get in a rush; projects come up fairly often. Most of them are good deals. However, go take a look if you can. If the seller wants to sell it he has to show it. Start reading the Canard Pushers, Cozy newsletters, posts in the canard-aviators email list. Below is a canard group with members in Washington state. Try to hook up with some of them. Most people are happy to help. Squadron III Mailing List Compact Mail List-1.pdf
  8. Kent Ashton

    Solitaire

    This is a long shot but his email address is in the first post http://forum.canardaviation.com/showthread.php?t=2467
  9. Saw this Vari in the Boulder, Co area, $3500 https://boulder.craigslist.org/avo/d/erie-varieze-85-complete-with/7183127477.html
  10. Here's some of the cleanest baffle work you will see. H/T Henry Herbert posting at https://www.facebook.com/NorthwestCozy More pics on his FB page. I would avoid the dams where possible (pic 4,5). It's a lot less work to let the baffles flop and they can be fitted for a good seal. If the dams and the baffle material are not perfectly fitted, or a dam straddles a baffle (done that!) they can leak air. Engines settle over time and move around under power. Might affect the seal. Still, nice job. Very precise.
  11. Just my opinion but ethanol free Mogas still can have 150 nasty chemicals http://www.idph.state.il.us/cancer/factsheets/gasoline.htm A 50/50 mixture with 100LL might take twice as long to eat up your tanks. Feel better now? 🙂 I don’t see much problem with lead— I use auto plugs and run very lean
  12. If you are looking to buy a Cozy, Marc Zeitlin has posted his list of ones for sale on the Cozybuilders email group. There are always projects coming up, too. The projects are usually cheap but after they're flying the price goes up. https://groups.google.com/g/cozy_builders/search?q=sale list or https://groups.google.com/g/cozy_builders/search?q=for sale Also my "sales I've seen thread" here. I stopped updating it but it will give you an idea of prices.
  13. In theory, it's nice to have a license and serial number but there are plenty of people building Open-ezs with neither. There are no official licenses to be had except very rarely on the unused plans market and I doubt you could get the license transferred to you anyway. I would suggest building an EZ (Open-ez). The only reason I can see to build a Vari is if your top priority is to fly a little airplane on a small engine at great fuel economy. Fuel is not most people's biggest expense. It is insurance and hangar fees.
  14. Tales of the Macabre, Aviation Edition: A friend of mine took his Piper to a shop for avionics upgrades and then to a shop next door for an annual. The mechanic shop said "you have low compression on one cylinder (55psi). It will have to be replaced. And you need major brake work." My friend was a little upset. Just a year earlier another shop that I trust had done a very thorough annual on his airplane (unfamiliar to them) and the compressions had been good. I suppose the brakes were also good when they left that shop. Last year's shop fixed some apparently deferred items and charged him about $6000 . Now the current shop wants to install a new cylinder based on one compression test. Mike Busch has written about this. See "Risky Business" here https://resources.savvyaviation.com/resources/mikes-articles/ Busch has said before that mere low compression is not cause to immediately replace a cylinder. Check for metal in the oi filter, borescope the valves, and monitor it for some more hours; sometimes the ring gaps have lined up or there is some other minor problem that can resolve itself. But my friend let them do it. Lycoming recommends break-in oil anytime a cylinder is replaced. See Part II, ¶D here https://www.lycon.com/uploads/4/4/8/8/44889763/si_1014m_lycoming_recommended_oils.pdf This shop told him "we don't use break-in oil, don't even keep it in stock". Yeah, I know. Not giving you a warm fuzzy feeling, right? I knew a place nearby where he can buy the break-in oil so maybe he can convince the shop to change to the proper oil. We'll see what the final bill amounts to. This makes me glad I do not have to deal with mechanics and especially mechanics that do not understand the difference between an "annual" and a "condition inspection". I have replaced cylinders on my airplane. At that time, I was not aware of all the cautions Busch writes about but I knew not to turn the prop.
  15. Reading this accident today: Experienced pilots, long flight, low on fuel, voltage regulator dead, battery dead or dying, tried to land at night with a fiance holding a flashlight at the end of the runway. 2 dead. An aviation classic. http://www.kathrynsreport.com/2020/08/fuel-exhaustion-cessna-150h-n7152s.html
  16. I don't think my friend overseas will mind me posting some pics. He has a cooling problem so I asked him to send me some pics. Pic 1 is the humongous metal scoop he added to help cooling. Scary and shouldn't be necessary. It might be something that goes through the prop someday. Pic 2, Cowl mounted so the blue baffle material inside the upper cowl dam. Plenum pressure will push the baffle inward and vent pressure. Also a rather large gap at the side. I neglected this once on my Cozy and the engine ran noticeably hotter. Pic 3, gaps at the top of the forward right cylinder. Pic 4, gaps in the top forward baffle and it appears the side baffle may not be tall enough to press against the dam. Pic 5, gaps at the side and at the top baffle. Also not a good seal (no baffle) where the metal meets the cowl at the exhaust pipes. This is a hard place to seal. So he is losing significant air through all these gaps. Pic 6, an ugly swedge I would not trust. He did not build this airplane. The builder also used rather stiff baffle material which does not conform well. Best to put a light in the cowls and night and look for things like this.
  17. Pic grabbed from a FB page. It looks like he has used 5.5" (66") or so of water differential to test his tanks (arrows). Way more than necessary. It can separate the ribs from the top or bottom. 66" water differential is 2.38 PSI. Puffer recommended about 21-24". 21" is .76 psi. It is about the amount of pressure you can blow in with your breath.
  18. Trying to think of a good analogy. It is sort of like having plans for a dog house and saying "I want to put this dog house plan into CAD before I build it." The engine mount, engine, accessories and cowls might be good drawn up into CAD. An instrument panel would be good in CAD. But the rest is just building the dog house. 🙂 If you were going to build a new airplane with different lines, lofting, bulkhead positioning I'd say go for it but putting that stuff in CAD will just stretch out the build. Props would be good in CAD. I can post some blade station X,Y coordinates for a two-blade prop that works very well with 180 HP. You might like to try that.
  19. F22 is at fuselage station 22". F28 at fuselage station 28". Most of the dimensions can be derived with a little plans-study and math. For example, F28 is labeled in your photo and the extreme left bulkhead is F22, also labeled. The 19.8 dimension on the left is the dimension for F22 and it is 103 inches to the firewall. The intervals you have question-marked are 10 X 10" increments with 3" additional to reach the firewall. Have fun. 🙂
  20. The open-ez is your 3D model! :-)
  21. I will say flatly that this project is dead and if someone can show otherwise, chime in. The problem is that when a person starts to put these drawings into CAD, the draftsman sees things that need to be upgraded like heavier gear and engine mounts, longer nose, electric nose lift, widen the back seat(?), rollover structure (?), add a stick and throttle in the back seat(?), downdraft or armpit cooling(?). The original drawings are also missing some dimensions that help redrafting so dimensions have to be pulled off the paper plans. After a while it gets to be a big project. Now the draftsman realizes he really doesn't have any copyright permission so if he finished the re-drawing, he might not be able to sell them, or if he offers them up to the public, maybe he'll be liable for something; that is unlikely but some people sweat this stuff. So if you want to build an EZ, download the Open-ez drawings, and the build manual and go to work. CAD drawings do not add anything and millimeter accuracy does not matter when the dimensions are estimated off the originals and you're cutting foam with a hotwire. (BTW, the original plans are surprisingly accurate) Most of the mods you might want to make are pretty easy to do during the build process. Just do it! 🙂
  22. I'd be interested to know what is "too heavy" and why you think your dream is a folly. Probably most modern EZs are lots heavier than Rutan envisioned. It does not seem to be much of a limitation except the main gear mounts and engine mounts need beefing up. The one I built was 993 empty. With me (225#), a 200# pax and 30 gallons it was 1598#. It flew just fine on an O-320 and I wouldn't have hesitated to fly it with full fuel if I had the runway and was not going to horse it around. I did beef up the gear/engine mounts. I think Marc will agree that many EZ/Cozy builders do not load their airplanes to the full gross weight and go out and pull 4.4 or 3.8G. 4G is a lot and unless you're going to do aerobatics in your EZ, you may never hit 4G. On the other hand, you might get in some turbulence at hit 5G or pull out of the clouds with spacial disorientation with 8G but probably not with full fuel and your 200# passenger. I can't say how close this comes to a failure point but there appear to be a lot of folks flying them with baggage pods, full fuel and two people even with unimproved landing gear mounts. Marc would have more knowledge of that than me but I was never concerned with the wings or canard coming off. Dick Rutan set a record at 1900# http://v2.ez.org/cp23-p3.htm and Dick and Mike Melville flew their EZs around the world starting at some huge gross weights. A search did not bring it the numbers. I think history supports that the design is stronger than necessary. AFAIK, no EZ that was built right has every come apart. Rutan did some dramatic tests of canard strength and the european builders have done full load tests to satisfy their aviation authorities. BTW, I have never seen my canard flex more than 1/2".
  23. Lots of folks think a diffuser works on a canard. I saw this one today being discussed on FB (pic 1). The theory is that a diffuser will expand and slow the incoming airflow in an organized way and increased the pressure in the plenum under the engine. I am skeptical. The airflow into a NACA is swirling as it goes over the edges of the NACA inlet. Then it is probably upset by the nose of a less-than-perfect inlet opening. It is turbulent, swirling airflow.. As I recall, a surface intending to redirect an airflow and maintain its attachment to the surface needs to be no more than about a 7 degree slope or the airflow will detach. This is why a NACA floor is so shallow. But that likely assumes a smooth airflow flowing over the slope. The diffuser shown is far steeper than that and trying to diffuse turbulent stream of air. Will it work? It is fun to try these things but I'd recommend setting up a piccolo-tube/manometer arrangement above and below the cylinders and measuring the pressure difference before and after installation of the diffuser. If there is no change, maybe you have wasted your time. Comparing CHTs is problematic. A difference in ambient temperature, or power setting, or lean setting or altitude makes it hard to compare using CHTs. Diffusers sound high-tech but they are a complication and sometimes get in the way of working on things at the firewall. I have tried a simple one (pic 2, alumimun) but danged if I could tell much difference. I think what improves cooling is tight baffles and ramps that _force_ the airflow (air is heavy!) to go directly towards the cylinders, then having exits that let the air out.
  24. I am not sure how I’d remove an epoxy primer. Perhaps a lot of it can remain, be sanded, pinholes killed and the rest of the process continued without a lot of hassle. You’d have to experiment with it. The JetGuys in Covington Tn do a lot of composite airplanes. You might book an hour with Robert Harris’s to get his opinion if he is not far out of your way. https://www.jetguys.co

The Canard Zone

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information