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Everything posted by Waiter

  1. Waiter

    Long EZ Height ??

    Welcome to the forum, and congrads on your new EZ. Follow the plans. (You Do have the plans, don't you?) There are many EZ's out there with the O-320, and several prop makers who can supply a two bladed for the EZ. The original plans call for 5x5. However many builders are putting a smaller tire on the mains. This makes for smaller wheel pants and a small reduction in drag. Waiter
  2. The argument of not having fuel in the cockpit is not valid. The only thing that keeps fuel from the cockipit are one fiberglass bulkhead (Strake and fuselage side) Also, if you follow the plans sump blister configuration, then you already have the fuel lines in the cockpit. Running that aluminum tube up to the front seat and putting in a valve adds insignificant risk. Putting the valve on the firewall then adding linkages to operate the valve from the cockpit adds additional failure modes (Ask John Denver about this) If your landings (impact) are hard enough to break the fuel line (aluminum tube) or cause the valve body to rupture, I'd be willing to bet that the strakes are no longer on the plane, so its a mute point. :sad: Stick with the plans and use a good quality valve. A good source, check with aircraft grave yards and get a real fuel valve. put new O-rings in it and you'll be good to go. Waiter
  3. Waiter

    O-235 vs O-320

    The word "Dynafocal" comes from the phrase Dynamically Focused. The angle of the motor mounts points toward the center of mass of the engine, and theroetically the focal point of any vibration. Personally, I like the Conical better, the mount rubbers are cheaper, and unless you have labratory instrumentation connected, I seriously doubt you could detect any difference between the two styles. The Conical mount is lighter and you'll have a little more room to work with around the firewall. Waiter
  4. On the three blade, your screwed! I one position, you'll hit one blade very heavy, in the other position, you'll get two blades, but not as bad. With #1 TDC I have one blade straight up and two blades down. Waiter
  5. 10-4 is great for hand propping. 7 - 2 will give you the minimum exhaust inpingment on the prop Set your crank at #1 TDC, then, viewed from behind, the prop should be at 7 - 2. Waiter
  6. With #1 TDC If you hand prop, 10-4 (looking from rear) If you don't hand prop, 7-2 will give you almost no impact from exhaust. Waiter
  7. Waiter

    O-235 vs O-320

    Use larger extrusions for the engine mount. the difference between conical and dynafocal is the way the engine mounts. you will need to have the engine in hand before you order your mount as they are not interchangable. You'll find the conical on older models. no significant difference in accessories between 235 and 320. Waiter
  8. The little boxers won't do the job. You need volumn and pressure. This is my first version: http://www.iflyez.com/Placards.shtml and you can read about my latest version. http://www.iflyez.com/LongEZ_Retrofit_JAN_08.shtml Waiter
  9. goto my web site: http://www.iflyez.com/Placards.shtml Scroll down near the bottom. There is a scanned copy of the Pilots Operating Handbook. Waiter
  10. If you've even had a passing thought of ever installing Infinity retracts, now is a good time to add the additional layups in the outer portion of the CS. Waiter
  11. Just got off the phone with JD; A quick review: JD reiterated that he has never seen this pin fail like this, He's seen them bent, but never broken. This agrees with everyone who has looked at the pin, this failure should not have happened. It appears as if the pin may have had a defect in it. There is a small nick /notch at about 45 degree from the original roll pin hole. This appears the be where the pin started to fail. a close examination reviels the fracture line starting at this nick, extending through the roll pin hole, and continuing. As Phil observed, this line is perpenducular to the angle of the side brace and the stress it would induce. Add a couple "Very Hard" landings that may have started the fracture, then it was just a matter of time before the pin completely failed. The Hard landing happened very early on, just as I was returning the plane to service. I told JD that if I had landed the plane this hard with the standard bow gear, I know I would have hit the prop. :eek: I discussed my repair strategy with JD, I told him that I have complete trust and confidence in the gear and will continue to support him. However, I didn't have confidence in the pin, as long as it used a roll pin for retention. We discussed the repair procedure, simply clean the existing hole and ream it oversize, then make and press fit a new pin in place. The roll pin will be relocated to the end of the pin, rather than go through the middle. JD offered several other repair options, but ultimately agreed that a new "Custom Pressed in" pin was a viable repair. I'll apply this repair procedure to both gear legs. Waiter
  12. Larry; Nice artwork, Looks like the real thing (except for the three holes) Waiter
  13. I just talked to the machinest; After the existing hole is cleaned up and reamed (it is slightly elongated now), we'll make the new pin to press fit it into the new oversized hole. We estimate it will be about .005 larger than it is now. The new pin will be exactly like the old one, except for oversize and also, no roll pin hole in the middle of the press fit. Instead, we'll put a roll pin at the very end where the pin protrudes out the back. This will be a last ditch effort to retain the pin incase it ever elongates again. (This will be a preflight item, make sure the pin is OK and still tight in the hole) The press fit will be responsible to hold the pin in, not the roll pin. The roll pin is there simple as a last ditch effort to keep the pin from sliding out in case it ever becomes loose. *********************************** I took the other strut off the plane. The pin on this one looks OK, but we're going to press it out and replace it with a new pin so there won't be a roll pin hole in this one either. While disassembling the good strut, I noticed two items: 1) The foot on the outer guide tube was loose. and 2) The inner guide tube had a small amount of twist in it. The groove has a slight twist and was binding slightly in the outer tube. THis isn't a big deal as I'm replacing the inner guide tube with steel tubes that we are making. AS FOR THE FOOT - As per JDs instructions (a couple years ago), I did drill out the three retaining allen screws and installed the AN3 bolts. These bolts were the only thing holding the foot onto the tube. The foot appears to be glued in place. WHen I cleaned all the adhesive, the foot was a very loose fit on the tube I showed this to the achinest, he's going to weld the foot directly on the tube. (They're both made of steel). He'll cut a small grove in the bottom of the foot and also a groove in the tube, he'll then weld the tube to the foot and the groove will be filled in with the weld. This will happed on the bottom of the foot, not the top. Waiter
  14. A darn good heater :-) http://www.iflyez.com/oil_heat.shtml The link above i my original heat system. My new heater is installed under the rear seat thigh support. You can read about some of it here: http://www.iflyez.com/LongEZ_Retrofit_JAN_08.shtml Waiter
  15. I'm using the original axels, this is a first generation gear set. We havn't removed the broken pin yet. Wanted the machinest to look at it. The portion that broke, the hole is slightly elongated. the pin wiggles slightly when placed in the hole. Waiter
  16. We talked about this. This will be an ongoing inspection item for now. Part of this decision was, can this retrofit be performed without removing the gear or special tools (machine shop work). HOWEVER If we say, no, the gear really needs to come off and go to the machine shop, then this opens up other possibilities; We also talked about tapering the pin where it goes into the hole. The only problem with tapering is, it requires machine work on the strut arm to cut the matching taper in the existing hole. (Not a real big deal, if it really needs to be done, might also be doable on location with the correct reamer) If we do a taper, the nut must be tightened (snugged) to pull the taper pin in snug. This might be possible, a custom made washer that fits up inside the cavity opening (similiar in shape as our custom made nut) and possibly an AN4 or AN5 small area nut (MS21042). There should be enough room to get a wrench up there to tighten the nut. (A sloted nut with cotter pin would be preferable if using taper pin) Looking at the photo http://www.canardzone.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3101&d=1258743161 There isn't a lot of room, but it might be do-able. May be possible to buy a pre-made taper pin (i.e. 3 inch long AN386-4), then machine it for this application. i.e. the taper portion would go inside the reamed taper in the side brace. The large end of the taper would be machined down to 3/8 diameter and have a grove cut for the retaining ring. This would allow all the original hardware, spherical bearing, etc to be used for the side brace/drag link. Heres a little blurb on taper pins: http://quid.us/hummel/taperpin.html Marc, Whats your thoughts on this? Waiter
  17. Spent the afternoon at the machine shop with landing gear parts. After beating many ideas around we came up with what seems like a nice simple, retrofitable fix. We're going to make new pins that are identical to the originals, with one major exception: The end of the pin that protudes into the cavity of the side brace (the piece that say Infinity Aerospace) will be machined down and threaded (5/16x24) We'll make a matching block that will slide up into the hollow cavity, It won't fill the entire cavity, just about 1/2 inch. This block will have a hole and be threaded to accept the pin. Kind of like a custom made nut. ALSO - We're going to make a steel guide tube to replace the original aluminum tube. (.090 thick chromalloy tube, with lower and upper donuts welded to it. Holes and slot then machined into tube and donuts) The pins should be available in a couple weeks, the guide tubes will be ready after Christmas. Waiter
  18. The closest anology is a manual transmission in your car; A Climb prop is like 1st gear, Great for takeoff and climb, but really bad for cruise. (your car is stuck in first gear) A Cruise prop is like 4th gear or overdrive, Really great for cruising at 70mph, but not good at starting off from the stop light. A Constant speed prop is like an automatic transmission, it can change gears automatically. So, Why are rpms important, Horse Power, A standard Lycoming O-320, full throttle at sea level will put out 160hp at 2700 rpm. At 2100 rpm its putting out about 100 hp. At 2900 rpm its putting out about 180 hp. The lycoming O-320 has a fairly linear power curve of about 10hp / 100 rpm (between 2100 and 3000 rpm) Waiter
  19. My tire lines up perfectly centered under the strut tube. Waiter
  20. I got my fuel strake screen from them (Brass well head screen used to keep sand out of water pumps) 1/2 inch thick rubber used to make nose bumper. Foam used to mount landing gear computer on (vibration isolation) Check out their web site and order a free catalog. http://www.mcmaster.com Waiter
  21. Shear loads on the pin (side to side) Side loads during landing (crosswind) Also, the gear leg is literally lifted into the well by this pin. Although there aren't a lot of samples to collect data from, Bill Theringers is probably the high time with the most gear cycles. I'll be talking to my Machinest this weekend, I think Phil had a retrofit using a shoulder screw. If so, I would like to see a photo of this! Here are a couple hi resolution photos. I can see what looks like a stress line(???) that runs about 45 degrees to the roll pin! Waiter
  22. Lynn, Very nice. Mine looks like it was made using a hatchet and a machette Waiter
  23. Lynn; I forgot about McMasterCarr Aircraft Parts Company:rolleyes: Waiter
  24. TMann, I used large plastic balls (beads - 5/8 inch in diameter) that you can get at any hobby shop. I cut a small slot in them with a Dremal, then epoxied them onto the handles. Waiter
  25. Throw in a Constant speed prop and you have a rocket ship; YYYEEEE HHHHAAAA Waiter

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