Waiter

Time to make a commitment and start building :-) Waiter

I'm not sure if you' have enough clearence when mounting the shield on the caliper!! I mounted mine between the axel and the gear bow. The heat shield plate also serves as the mounting plate for my wheel pants. I don't have any real good photos, but you can see the heat shields on the gear in several of the photos on my web site. Look at the CONSTRUCTION photos, under MISCELLANEOUS www.iflyex.com I use 1/8 inch 6061T6, its about 1/4 inch larger diameter than the disk. Its pie shaped with about 1/4 of a pie piece missing. NOTE: Your heat shield may be to close to the disk. In thermal dynamics, there is an item call "Black Body Effect". A body will re-radiate what it receives. If the heat shield is to close to the disk, it may be almost as hot (and radiating) as the disk. You need a gap to allow air circulation to "cool" the heat shield. Waiter

A big negative I see is the O-235 engine. This is the 118hp version. (considering the price) Surely, there are O320 (160 hp) EZ's out there in the same price range. Waiter

WOW; 28,200ft ; Congradulations. Waiter

I've never built a Cozy IV, But I would guess that is almost a scale factor. The Cozy IV is larger and a little more complex. I would WAG about 10% - 15% more time and cost to build the Cozy IV vs the LongEZ Waiter

Very sad, My prayers are with the families and friends; I went through a very similiar incident when we lost an EC-135 that was departing Kirtland AFB, NM (1977). I Had a lot of close friends on that plane. Waiter

Rich, Good idea, You might be able to barrow one from the local clinic if you promise to provide then with readings and altitudes. For Future Reference: Here in The United States, Any pilot can get FREE (well, very low cost) high altitude training, to include an Altitude Chamber ride. Check out this link: http://www.faa.gov/pilots/training/airman_education/aerospace_physiology/ Waiter

Everything Looks good. A couple notes: Trim the plane for slight nose down (not level). This will require a slight back pressure. If you develope Hypoxia, and release the stick, at least it will start a descent. Monitor yourself for signs of Hypoxia; fingernails bluish, slowness in judgment, Carefree attitude. Keep up with your mixture, on the way up, AND on the way back down. be very aggressive with the mixture, lean for best power, don't worry about lean of peak. I use a small credit card to scrape frost off the canopy. Toilet tissue dampened with water can be used to plug air leaks that may develop under the canopy. Take a large mouth empty bottle and paper towels. (relief tube) Good Luck and keep[ us posted. Waiter

I have a Very Old O-320 (1955 Apache) The closest thing is an A1A. I replaced the original 7.5 pistons (150hp) with 8.5 (160hp). Plugged the Prop Gov hole, Plugged the Vacumn hole, Oh Yah, replaced the crank about 10 years ago (cracked flange, see the article on my web site) After I get flying and have things stabalized, I'll probably sell the Bendix mag, Carb, and a low pressure mechanical fuel pump. Waiter

I would say "better informed" If your engine starts running a little rough at altitude, but seems to clear up when you descend, this is probably the culpret Waiter

You should be able to run either direction, none-stop. Oh-Yah, I forgot to mention. Relief tubes are a must for long haul none stop travel. I call it; "The ability to leave yellow contrails" Waiter

Please google "Pressurized Magneto" I've had standard unpresurized Bendix mags work OK up to FL210, I've also had standard unpresurized Bendix mags start misfiring at FL150 and become totallly inoperative by the time I'm up to FL180. Waiter

I go high for the speed, duration, and economical fuel burn. I typically fly eastbound at FL180 and westbound down low, FL100. I run a normally aspirated O-320, Carb with electrinic ignition. ( I would say you really need EI to go high, unpressurized Mags start missfiring as you increase altitude. I have had mags (bendix) do OK at FL180, but the current mag I hav starts missfiring at FL150 and is completely dead by the time I get to FL180) I just checked the winds aloft for FL180 and FL100 between San Jose, CA and Toledo, OH. Distance = 1800 nautical miles (I fly this four or five times a year) At FL180 winds are 70kts eastbound and FL100 they are only 30 kts eastbound. FL100 Winds Aloft = 30 Fuel burn = 7gph KIAS = 135 Ground speed = 165kts (135 + 30) Travel time = 10.9 hours (1800 / 165) Fuel Used = 76.36 gallons (10.9 * 7) FL180 Winds Aloft = 70 Fuel burn = 4.5 gph KIAS = 120 Ground speed = 190kts (120 + 70) Travel time = 9.4 hours (1800 / 190) Fuel Used = 42.6 gallons (9.4 * 4.5) The Winds aloft for your route looked like 15 kts for FL100 and 20 kts for FL180. (700 km distance) FL100 Winds Aloft = 15 Fuel burn = 7gph KIAS = 135 Ground speed = 150kts (135 + 15) Travel time = 4.6 hours (700 / 150) Fuel Used = 32.7 gallons (4.6 * 7) FL180 Winds Aloft = 20 Fuel burn = 4.5 gph KIAS = 120 Ground speed = 140kts (120 + 20) Travel time = 5 hours (700 / 140) Fuel Used = 22.5 gallons (5 * 4.5)

If the main gear are close together, like in a LongEZ, then the answer is yes. But, like I say, its impossible to tip if you use differential braking. Picture this: You just landed and you want to make the first turn off, so you stand on the left brake to make a left turn. As the plane starts to turn to the left, it also starts tipping to the right. The more it tips to the right, the less weight the left tire has on the ground, and the less braking effect the left tire will have. (hence the ability to turn the plane) At some point, the left tire will start skidding or may even lift off the ground slightly. When the left lifts off the ground, the plane will stop turning left. Waiter

Google "Nose Wheel Tiller" for more information on this! There really is nothing wrong with differential braking used for steering. A steerable nose wheel on a plans built EZ would introduce an unsatisfactory and unsafe ground handling characteristic, the plane would be very EZ to tip sideways. To reduce this tipping tendancy, the main gear would need to be spread apart, perhaps 24 inches on each side. a wider stance would reduce /eliminate tipping. Now, with the wider stance, you'll now have a wider turning radius. Two huge advantages of the standard EZ with the castering nose and differential braking; Very small turning radius, I can litterally lock up one of the mains and pivot on that tire. ALSO, its impossible to tip the plane due to steering inputs, PERIOD. Waiter

There was a real good artiocle somewhere, described how he worked with the U of M to develop the vortex generators. Stripped everything except a small O2 bottle, etc etc Search through the CPs or Central States Newsletters. I'll look around a little and see if I can find it Waiter

Good luck with the high altitude testing. When I did mine, I requested a 100mile x 10 mile box that ran directly over Interstate 5 between Tracy and Harris Ranch (California). This box keeps me away from the heavy commercial traffic. To date, the highest I've had mine is FL250. Typically I don't cruise above FL210, thats just about where my best climb speed is (95-100 kts at 2500 rpm), Thats the most efficient airspeed, anything slower and the efficiency goes way down.. (depends on tailwinds) If I stripped everything out and got it as light as I could, I might be able to make FL280 - FL290. That would be with an IAS of about 60 - 65kts and turning 2900 rpm on the engine. (CS prop). Dress warm, Its Very cold up there, double check your O2 and bring a small piece of plastic (credit card) to scrape the frost off the inside of the canopy. Are you using my software to take data? Even if you don't have a Dynon you can at least get the GPS data.. http://www.iflyez.com/EFISRecorder.shtml Waiter

Google; jim price longez altitude record Came up with a few hits. I seem to recall a good article with a lot of detail in one of the news letters mny years ago!! Waiter

I've never flown a Covy IV, but I see no reason why not. Entry speeds may be different, but it should be do-able. Waiter

This valve is located between the fuel injection servo and the fuel injection distribution block. In one position it allows fuel coming from the servo to be routed to the distribution block, and out to the individual injectors. (This is the normal position) In the other position, The injection side of the servo is vented back to the fuel tank, fuel will flow through the pumps, through the servo, and dumped back into the fuel tank. No fuel flows to the distribution block or injectors. The valve is used during starting and stopping the engine to vent the fuel/vapor back to the fuel tank. STARTING THE ENGINE Before cranking the engine, the valve is placed in the Purge position and the fuel pump is turned on. Any pressure that is a result of vaporized fuel (vapor lock) is now vented back into the fuel tank. Cool fuel flows through the servo, up to the valve, and into the fuel tank. The fuel system is now purged and there is no vapor lock. As you start cranking the engine, move the valve to the Normal position, fuel now flows to the injectors and the engine starts STOPPING THE ENGINE Move the valve to the Purge position, fuel no longer flows to the injectors, but is vented back to the tank. This eliminates run-on and/or diesieling that sometimes results when shutting down using the Mixture control to shut down the engine. No fuel, no run-on. Leave the valve in the Purge position after shutdown. This eliminates vapor pressure from pushing fuel through the block/fuel injectors and into the cylinders (hot start) This valve is standard on the Airflow Performance fuel injection systems. www.airflowperformance.com Waiter

A 1/2 inch foil with the ends cut at a very sharp angle will have a lower VSWR (Voltage Standing Wave ration) over a wider range of frequencies than the same 1/2 inch foil with the ends cut at a 90 degree angle (or a piece of wire) A VSWR of 2.0 is acceptable with todays electronics, but a 1.0 is always the goal. Measuring the VSWR of two antennas (a sharp foil and a straight wire) at three points, 118 Mhz, 127Mhz, and 136Mhz should result in readings similiar to these: Foil with very sharp cutoff centered at 127 Mhz: 1.5, 1.2, 1.5 Piece of wire centered at 127 Mhz 1.7, 1.2, 1.7 Both antennas are acceptable, the foil would have a lower "Q" (technical term used to define the 3db points of the frequency response) compared to the wire. Waiter

Almost identical to the roll, Instead of starting with a 2 g pullup, you need to be more aggressive, with an initial 3 g pullup. Then instead of putting in aileron and rudder, keep pulling the stick back. Again - READ my first post items 1 - 4. Waiter.

The problem most people have is not enough airspeed to maintain level flight while inverted. (hence falling out at the top of the roll). If you don't have enough airspeed, the roll quickly turns into a downward spiral. I've found I can maintain level inverted flight, but I need at least 130 kts and full nose down (forward) stick. I'll take a inclinameter with me next time I do this, but I'm guessing the deck angle is probably around -20 degrees to hold level flight. Waiter

If able, get someone to show you how to do this: I can show you in two minutes, and have you successfully do it. First, make sure you have plenty of altitude (8-10,000 agl, YES that high), because the first time you try this your going to fall out of the top and scare the living bejibers out of yourself as your pointing toward the ground and quickly building up speed. Second, If you pencil whipped flutter testing during phase one, then do not perform this maneuver, (See item # 1). Go back and perform flutter testing the way its supposed to be done, then replacard the aircraft accordingly. Third, Verify your CG. weight and balance. DO NOT operate past the aft limit. Fourth, In the US, make a note in your log book that you are returning to Phase-One to perform aerobatic evaluations and testing. This makes you legal. OK, Put on your parachute, climb to the test altitude. Do a couple practices first, to about a 45 degree climb. Lightly push the nose over to build up to 160 kts. Pull back and hold the stick with about 2 g's. When the aircraft is 45 degrees, push the nose back to straight and level, you'll probably go ZERO gs for a few seconds. You should have about 140 kts at this point. When your comfortable with this, continue to the actual roll. As you reach 45 degrees, This will require coordinated controls: Start easing up on the aft stick, quickly (but gentle) apply full left stick and start putting in full left rudder, at the same time continue pushing the nose down as the aircraft goes inverted. If coordinated correctly, the plane will be straight and level, while inverted, and you'll be pushing the stick forward as you continue the roll. NOTE - If you have inverted oil and fuel systems, this is a good place to fly inverted, with an indicated airspeed of about 130 kts, and a deck angle about -25 degrees, holding strong nose down on the stick. As the aircraft continues to roll start easing the stick back to the straight and level position. After a little practice, you should be at the exact same altitude and heading that you started from. Waiter

TMann, That looks like one mean frontal system. We had one come through here last week, Waiters Work Shop took a direct hit by lightning, Took out one tree (exploded that baby, right down the middle), two ethernet switches (house and shop) ,and the Garage door opener. (Thats why you couldn't access my webcam for the last week) ( My shop must be on a special piece of ground, I get two or three strikes a year within a 1/2 mile of my shop. This is the first direct hit though) Two weeks before that, a microburst took out line about 1/2 mile wide by a mile long. Took down a big tree at my Mothers old house (I'm renting it out for now). That took up my weekend cutting up firewood. (Oh well, at least I have enough firewood for the next two winters). I don't need any more exitement for the rest of the summer Waiter