Waiter

Government Bailout Cash for LongEZs????? :rolleyes: Waiter

My initial thoughts are, Why do you have fuel coming out the vents? I can't remember where the plans built vent terminates inside the strake, I want to say; "Toward the back, right above the sump". Anyway, Try a little acetone first. That may get most of it if it hasn't blead into the paint, Otherwise, try some polishing compound, This is a very fine abbrasive, so be carefull. Waiter

Me too, But I wouldn't recommend anyone else do this. Fortunantly, the hole is toward the center where stresses are the least. If you do repair, You need to scratch (sand) F22 and the fuselage about 2 inches, Both front and back to get a good mechanical bond Fill in the hole with flox. Lay up 5 or 6 layers of BID on the back of F22 onto the fuselage. Lay up 2 layers in the front. Knife trim the BID around the area on the Front of F22 where the Canard tab touches. Waiter

The plans location doesn't work well because of the where the oil cooler is venting to! In a plans Updraft cooling system, the lower cowl is pressurized. The plans location has you venting the oil cooler into this high pressure area, so you don't get a lot of air flow through the cooler. My oil cooler was in the plans location, mounted to the lower cowl. I made a small adapter out of fiberglass that fit on top (the exhaust side) of the oil cooler and had a 2 1/2 inch aluminum tube so I could connect a 2 1/2 inch SCAT tube to it. I then cut a 2 1/2 in hole in the center of the lower baffle, the one that seals the alternator / starter against the lower cowl, and installed a small 2 1/2 aluminum tube in it. The SCAT tube from the oil cooler then connects to this tube. Looking at the back of the engine compartment when the cowling is installed, you'll see the 2 1/2 inch hole just below the Starter and Alternator, this is where the oil cooler exhaust air comes out. Coldest oil ever. :-) Waiter

ALSO; The shaft can sometimes slide back down. Take a little axel grease and whip it on the shaft. this should keep the shaft from falling down, giving you time to put the pump on. Waiter

Should be over there about 10 Waiter

Didn't know they had one, but Yes. Is that PCW ?? Waiter

If your considering using water for ballest, keep in mind that when water freezes, it expands and can rupture tanks, plumbing, etc. Waiter`

Lynn, Good idea, I'll check into that. Thanks Waiter

I had a good shimmy over the weekend, but its still there. It got my attention real fast though :eek: This needs to be upgraded Waiter

Chrissi / Randi; I'm looking for two items; 1) A complete nose wheel assembly, i.e. the mount block, pivot, damper, wheel, bearings, etc, etc. (Everything that bolts to the bottom of the nose strut. 2) The wing inserts things (nice technical term) that get floxed into the wings for mounting the Baggage pods. I think I need 6 per side, 12 total. ( My main landing gear doors hit the baggage pods, so I need to mount new inserts about 6 inches outboard of the originals.) Waiter

If your undertaking this level of repair, you need a copy of the plans. If you don't have the original plans, A copy of the plans are on the TERF disk. These should be acceptable to make this repair and answer any other questions you have regarding how the plane is assembled. IMHO - If you own a VariEZ or LongEZ, you must have the plans and the CPs. If your mounting a LongEZ bow, you'll need to merge the drawings for the VariEZ and LongEZ. Also, there are a couple CPs that apply to the LongEZ Landing gear bow. If you have the TERF disk, it contains both the Vari and LongEZ plans, so you can see what the differences are. Where to find a TERF disk? Google "TERF disk". Look on E-Bay. Expect to pay around $200. A good price considering the original plans cost $200 per copy. Waiter

I wasn't aware of the SKY one. The only problem I have with SKY is the need to back taxi. When it gets busy, the people in the pattern won't extend their downwinds and allow planes to backtaxi and take off. ANyway, I may show up there on Sunday. TMann, Can he do multiple color? The guy I have can only cut single color (letters, logos, emblams, etc), but he can't color print on Vinyl. I got all my labels and 6 "Stars/Bars" for $65. Waiter

Hey, If the weather holds up, I'll fly over to Norwalk (ohio) this Saturday (8 Aug) for their Planes and Cars flyin. Probably around 11am. I'll give you the name of the guy that did my vinyl graphics, Like, Real Cheap :-) Waiter

www.iflyez.com Look on the left side under "HOW TOs", click on "WEIGHT and BALANCE" Waiter

Pilot weight has the most impact on CG. Most EZs are built with one particular Pilot in mind, and often, ballast is added/subtracted to adjust the weight for that particular Pilot. As Firefly mentioned, LongEZs tend to run aft CG. I would be very concerned if the scenerio were reversed, i.e. A Pilot who weighs 275 lbs in an EZ with mid to aft CG, just sold his EZ to a Pilot who weighs 170 lbs. If the CG was at 103.0 with the 275 lb Pilot, the CG would shift aft to 108.0 when the 170lb Pilot got in. The Bottom Line - As for Pilot Weight, I would say, if you can fit in it, (and the CG is OK) then you are good to go. Waiter

I made mine out of plexiglass I machined a groove in a white piece of plexiglass, then glued a clear piece over the top of it. I've been flying with these since 1996, and I use auto fuel extensively. The clear as chenged to a slight brownish color, but the fuel is still clearly visable. I also have the dynon and fuel sensors, but always refer back to the sight guages. As for the Landing gear, I have a mark on the leading edge of the wing. If the gear upper door lines up with the mark, I know the main gear is down. Waiter

It might be tail heavy. Be careful Waiter

Ah, two important questions; What date is RR and what is the airport desiginator??? Waiter

Back seat in a LongEZ (You must install a good thigh support and fake rudders that act as foot rests) is comfortable for about 2 hours, then you start getting squermy (is that a word?) at hour #3, Then at hour #4, your ready to kill someone. If I have a GIB, I limit flights to about 3 - 3 1/2 max. If the GIB gets to loud or obnoxous, I turn their O2 flow down a little bit and let them take a nap:D Waiter

Me too. My original EZ was about a 6 incher. Looked very nice from about a 6 inches away. Version #2 is about a 5 footer. Looks very nice from about 5 foot away, BUT, it flies. Its not still sitting in the shop while I spend another year sanding and filling. And I agree, LongEZs are way, way cooler than Cozys. Waiter

COOLING My cooling intakes are approximately 14 sq inches on each side. Each intake feeds its own plenum. The Cylinders are fairly well sealed against leaks. CHTs are all within 25 deg of each other. With 90 deg OAT, I'm seeing 400-425 CHT on a high power, low speed, climb. At full power cruise, CHTs are hanging between 350 - 375. My intakes are a little to large, 10 - 12 inches would probably be OK. Latter, if I feel like it, I may make some temporary lips that I can tape to the intakes to close them down a little, but not now COMBUSTION AIR I'm currently getting my combustion air from inside the lower cowl (hot area). This could easily rob me of 10-15 hp When I built my cowl, I installed small (5 sq inches) armpit scoops on each side of the cowl. The left scoop is ducted and plumbed for the Oil Cooler. The right scoop is meant to be used for unfiltered combustion air. This weekend I'll build the ducting to route the air from the scoop, down the side and bottom of the cowl, then into a small plenium box where the air needs to turn 180 degrees then enter into the engine air intake. Waiter

GO FOR IT I think the "OpenEZ" project is the neatest thing in the world. I bought my plans in 1987 from a person who changed their mind. If I were doing this today, and I couldn't find a set of original plans at a reasonable price, I'd definantly build from the TERF disk. Besideds, most of the people flying EZs today didn't build them, they bought them. Waiter

I increased the UP pressure to 900 psi. No more gear door noise. I need to put the plane on jacks and do a retract just to double check the alignment. ALSO - I did a series of speed runs up to FL180. I need to reconnect my old original airspeed guage to see if there is a difference in calibration between the Dynon and the original. The airspeeds I seen were almost identical to what they before I made any modifications. So I'm looking for explainations for this. Waiter

Fixed the major leak, still seem to have a small leak. Also need to reshim the left wing (still high AOA) And, I have a gear door that sounds like its fluttering (buzzing at about 165kts). Need to realligh gear doors. I ordered a new battery, and my Alternator needs to be replaced (light stays on dim, probably a bad diode) SPEED -- To date, I have 165kts at full throttle (2300 RPM) , sea level, straight and level. This is about 5 kts faster than when I started. This is not a final number, I suspect when I get my Pitot leak taken care of, and reshim the left wing, this will improve (I hope). Also, I'm going to temporarly replumb my old original airspeed indicator to see if there is a discrepancy between the Dynon and the original Airspeed indicator. Waiter