Waiter

Aircraft Spruce # 10450-1. I use the same one on my LongEZ. Gaskets are #10449 Call them. When I checked their web site, the cap # part number wasnt listed, but the gasket # looks oK. Waiter

If this were a standard LongEZ with fixed gear and prop, I would totally agree. However, in this particular case, they are highly desirable, maybe even mandatory. The aircraft in this photo is equipped with a turbine engine and has retractable gear. Very difficult to slow this plane down without the use of the drag devices. As for the Mooney style flip ups. Very desirable if you own a Mooney. Mainly, to get the airplane slowed down to gear speed. Once the gear is hanging in the breeze, the drag devices are virtually useless. The problem with the LongEZ isn't slowing down to gear speed, as the gear is already "Down and Glued" :-). The problem is, even with the LongEZs gear hanging down, the aircraft is still to aerodynamically clean to allow for a normal approach angle when landing. However, with the drag device (landing brake) deployed, a normal approach angle can now be performed in the LongEZ. Waiter

I'm not a machist, but a computer geek. The Company I used to work for, they found that it was sometimes faster and more productive to let me and the other EEs make our own hardware parts. Once we got the prototype working and it looked kind of like what we were after, a machinest would then disassemble the prototype and redo everthing correctly. i.e. bolt holes lined up, corners chaffed, drawings updated (EEs are very bad at this), etc. So, with access to a mill and a lathe, I built most of the parts called out for in the plans, including the more complicated stuff like the throttle assembly, nose gear retract assembly, and the Roncz canard hardware. (remember, I'm by no means a machinest) Although you could certianly build your own Gear Bow and blow your own canopy. These parts are still available from vendors. The CozyGirls; http://www.cozygirrrl.com/aircraftparts.htm manufacture very high quality parts. The only thing I didn't see, was the original Brock Throttle assembly or the Nose gear retract assembly. Check with the CozyGirls, ACS, or, do as many of us have; Replace the original Brock throttle with a real push/pull throttle, and, replace the manual nose retract assembly with oe of the electric units. Regardless, I can't think of any part that can't be bought or built, and the LongEZ will be supported for many years to come. Waiter

OK, Everything I said is still OK, (I think; Take the Cozy folks word over mine ) EXCEPT - On the Cozy IV, you don't need to compress the strut like you do on a LongEZ. So, even if you didn't have the original clearence, you could always compress the strut. Lynn, If I were building today, I'd make the trailing edge straight. Do you know of anyone who did this?? Waiter

I assume this is a LongEZ: ADDING 3 INCHES - Yes, add 3 inches to the middle of the center spar. Don't forget to calculate the new positions for the engine mount extrusion hard point in the center spar. Also make sure the dimensions for the wing attach point are also moved outboard by 1 1/2 inches As you've noted your wings and strakes will be per plans. This should have very little impact on flight charastics, slightly more drag from the wider fuselage, slightly slower roll rate because of the wider wing span. Possible slightly better slow speed stability becuase more of the wing is now exposed to clean air, vs turbulance from the canard. Minimal impact on CG calculations. NOT ADDING 3 INCHES - If you DO NOT make the center spar wider, your strakes will be 1 1/2 narrower. You WILL NOT have enough room to install the Infinity gear, as your strakes will not be wide enough. CLARIFICATION: Your making the fuselage 3 inches wider and this will include the rear seat and aft bulkhead (firewall). If this three inches also goes all the way forward, you may want to make the canard three inches wider also, don't forget to move all the hardware outboard by 1 1/2 inches. On the centerspar, The engine mount extrusions will now be 3 inches farther apart. You will need a custom engine mount. The extrusion attach points are moved farther outboard 1 1/2 inches from the center The Cowling will be 3 inches wider where it attaches to the wings, Custom Cowling needs to be made. The center spar will be 3 inches wider. This effectively moves each wing outboard by 1 1/2 inches. The wings themselves will be per plans (SEE NOTE BELOW) If you do the above, there will be no impact on the per-plans dimensions of the Strakes, as the dimensions from the outboard end of the centerspar to the fuselage side will be per plans. The Strakes will be per plans, with the same fuel capacity, bulkheads, etc etc. Same for the Infinity gear, they will be per plans, except each gear leg is now 1 1/2 inches farther outboard. NOTE- BUILDING THE WING - The trailing edge of a per-plans LongEZ wing does a little joggle forward. (When Burt Originally designed the LongEZ, he intended on using the VariEZ cowl, so he had to bring the trailing edge of the wing forward so the shorter cowl would fit) If your going to be building a custom cowl, You might want to just make the wings trailing edge straight. This will move the TE aft about 2 inches where it intersects the cowl. Good Luck Waiter

My guess is the extra weight is FRU-FRU. My WAG is a LongEZ built by a carefull builder with NO fru-fru, An O-235, with minimum instruments and electrical, and minimum filler and paint, Probably 750 lbs. I don't think you would see a 25 - 50 lb savings between an average builder and someone who Vac Bagged. So, Where the extra 200 lbs come from? Filler and finish, electrical system, radios, instruments, oxygen tanks, larger engines, larger batteries, etc. Waiter

I don't know who does skins, but Featherlite used to do a "leading edge and bulkhead kit" The actual skins are flat foam. Waiter

Just go to the auction, post a "Question to the Seller"; Are these the same ones you can download for free at http://www.canardzone.com?? The "Question to Sellor" shows up at the bottom of the aution! Waiter

There are several EZs in Southern Mich (Ann Arbor, Detroit). I live just south of Toledo. Your welcome to stop by anytime. Waiter

I don't believe any automotive alternator has overvoltage protection. Waiter

I found it in the PIC catalog (Picture catalog) # 205 Its a NipponDenso, I found about a dozen or so that matched this end plate exactly (three dimples, number, location, and shape of cooling holes, etc) with the Battery Terminal on the side. Of those, there were several that looked very close, based on the location of the mounting bracket. I can't see the other nose mount bracket in the photo you supplied, so I just picked one that matched. It looks like a 1983 - 1987 Honda. The ND part number is 100211-2010, OR 100211-2011 , OR 100211-2140 ALSO The A&T Rebuilders # is 290-217 (14680) This is a 65 amp version (I see several that are rated at 70 amps) If the round connector has three lugs, They are (topleft to lower right) Sense, Ignition, Light. If yours has four lugs, its; Sense, Computer, Ignition, and Light. Another very close one is from a 1984-1988 Toyota Waiter

I'm running an O-320: Alternator = Datsun - Hitachi LR-150-98 (55 amp) Starter = Toyota Camry (Lester # 16236, Lucas # S9707) ( mates to a 122 tooth gear) Left Mag = Bendix (Changing to P-Mag) Right Mag = Jeff Rose EI Carb = M4PA (Changing to Airflow Performance FI) Waiter

Try "Google" the manufacture and model number. OR Do as as Lynn recommends. If you don't find your answer there, Give me the info and I'll see if I can find anything in the catalogs. Waiter

They are not compatable. You would need to highly modify the alternator to allow it to use an external regulator. What prompts this question? I'm running an automotive alternator (Hitachi 55 amp) that has internal regulator, internal OV protection, and, external Voltage sense. Waiter

Keep the canard below the horizon is strictly to keep from hitting the prop. When I perform a maximum rate climb. After I'm clear of the runway (20-50ft) I pull the stick back and the canard is well above the horizon. (I look under the canard for for traffic) As Drew said, Single pilot IFR in an EZ is not EZ. I spent about two hours on the guages (FL210) when my EZ was fairly new. The next day I ordered a Nav Systems Autopilot. The EZ is not a nice stable IFR platform. Waiter

Ted; I see this question crop up often. I wrote an article thats posted on my web site: http://www.iflyez.com/CanIFlyEZ.shtml Waiter

Seriously, setting the item out in the summer sun will do the job, even in the northern latitudes. If you can get the surface temperature up to 120-140, thats more than adaquate to prevent any future creeping. Enclosed are photos of my landing gear doors going through post cure. Even in March with an OAT of 70 degF, the doors still got up to almost 100 degF. Waiter

Rich; Back in the late 80's, it was easy to see who was post curing and who wasn't. Look down the top surface of a wing, particularly in the area of the spar caps. If the plane was finished to a high degree, then this would be a very nice flat, slightly curved surface with no imperfections, perfect. After several years, if you could see any signs of ripples in the finish, odds are, the plane was built in the north and/or was not post cured. My EZ has 2600 hours on it and is 12 years old, the finish is as good as the day I painted it, there are no ripples in any of the surfaces. I built my EZ while living in Calif (San Jose / San Diego), all the parts were post cured, simply by placing them out in the sun for a couple days. I monitored the temperature with my hand. If it was to hot to leave my hand on the part, then it was to hot and I'd throw a tarp over it. Planes that were built in the northern climate and not post cured may suffer from "creep". This is what causes the "ripples". If the parts are post cured before finishing, you won't get this "creep". Keep in mind that this "creep" that I described is not unsafe. The epoxies just take on a new set when its exposed to a higher temperature. The idea of post curing is to expose the epoxies to the highest temperature it will see in its life, before the finishing process, not after. Waiter

These things have been sitting in the hot desert sun for years. I commuted from San Jose to Fresno every day for about a year. With an OAT of 115, I often seen my temperature guage hitting 130-140. I post cured all my parts simply by setting them out in the sun. Just keep an eye on the temperature, not to exceed 160. Waiter

SO, Back to the original question! Waiter

I used to do them out in that area when I lived in Calif. but its been a couple years. Check with David Orr, He may have a name in your area. If you don't get any results, drop me and e-mail: waiter -AT- iflyez -DOT- com Waiter

Yah, Everything Rglos said :-) Waiter

Yah, Everything Marc Said :-) Waiter

The chain serves two purposes; 1) I am light and generally when I fly a first flight, we need to add ballast to move the CG forward and into the "First Flight" box. The weight of the chain adds about 20 lbs to my behind. 2) In the event of bailout, Open the canopy, throw the chain overboard and to the rear. If the chain touches the propellor, in all likelyhood, the propellor will dissinitigrate. Me Too, but when I do, I wear a parachute. :-) Waiter

Opening the canopy in flight is no problem. Simply move the latch forward, If you do not have a safety catch, the canopy will fling open. If you have a plans built canopy stay, it will rip it out of the headrest. Odds are good the canopy will slam against the strake and shatter. This could work in your favor, as the plexiglass pieces could damage the propellor. (Does Canopy Closed and Lock alarm sound like a good thing to have?) As for "Hitting the Silk", The closest I'm aware of is the incident involving CG testing of a Velocity (???). The pilot opened the canopy and was literally leaning out and forward over the canard in order to shift the CG. (Someone will chime in with the detailed account, I hope??) Waiter