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Kent's Long-EZ project


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#1 Kent Ashton

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Posted 13 April 2009 - 05:16 PM

Your correspondent in Concord N.C. reporting: I have always been a little suspicious of the plans Long-EZ engine mounting points. No good reason, really. If you use 4130 angles or thicker 2024 angles in the firewall, it seems to hold up fine in service, so no need to do anything much different. However, I built a Cozy IV and like the way Nat re-designed the engine mounts in the C-IV so I thought I would go that direction. I got a good deal on an 0-320-H2AD. There is no mount or dynafocal ring made that would work, AFAICT--so I bought a dynafocal cup set from ACS to make my own dynafocal ring. Surprise! I thought the cups would come welded-up but you only get the steel--three pieces for each cup--and have to weld them to make the cups. Not too hard to do, though. I had to start by machining some aluminum substitutes for the dynafocal doughnuts to postion the cups in the correct position. (BTW, a compressed dynafocal doughnut and cup is 2" thick) After that it was a solid 4-5 days of work for me. Goes like that when you have to re-sharpen about a hundred tungstens, find your misplaced spectacles, etc. :) Seems like I ought to have more tubes but compare it to a C-IV mount from the Cozygirrrls. Mine looks at least as robust as Nat's design which is holding up well. I might add another cross brace at the bottom. Here are three pics of my mount with the alum spacers I made, a regulation C-IV mount from the Cozygirrrls, and a mount from the internet that might have been for an O-540. That one is stout.

Attached Thumbnails

  • frwall5.jpg
  • Dynafocal_type_1_500.gif
  • IMG_0002.JPG
  • IMG_0010.JPG
  • IMG_0006.JPG

-Kent
Cozy IV N13AM-650 hrs, Long-EZ-55 hrs


#2 Kent Ashton

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Posted 21 April 2009 - 09:31 AM

This is how I ground the fuel cap rings to eliminate static when refueling: Before I glass the top of the strakes, make a little groove in the foam and run wires from the fuel tank ring area to somewhere in the cockpit where I connect them to an aluminum angle. I have the angle mounted inside the strake but you could also run the wires back to something on the engine and clamp the grounding wire to the exhaust like lots of refuelers will do. When I refuel, I connect the grounding wire to the angle inside the strake which grounds both fuel rings. Before I install the fuel cap ring, I rivet the wire to the underside of the ring. Last time I did this and pressure checked my tanks, I had a tiny leak where the ground wire entered the storage area of the strake, so use some wet flox where the wire transitions through the inner skin.

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMG_0001.JPG

-Kent
Cozy IV N13AM-650 hrs, Long-EZ-55 hrs


#3 Kent Ashton

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Posted 21 April 2009 - 05:06 PM

A chap asked me about thigh supports today so I thought I'd post what I told him: First I built and glass-in the ribs under the thigh support, then I made wide cuts on the underside of the T.S. foam so it would bend, then attached the foam to the ribs with dabs of bondo, weighted with some lead shot until the bondo got hard. It will also help to use a heat gun to bend the foam. Then I glassed the top side of the T.S., with a little overlap on the seat and sides of the ribs (using box tape where I didn't want it to stick), then I popped the T.S. loose from the ribs, trimmed the edges and glassed the underside. While the bottom was tacky, I put saran over the ribs and weighted the T.S. down in place to cure so it would fit well. It is two colors from using both MGS and Ez-poxy. It does not go all the way across because I wanted to have some snack storage on the sides that I could stuff full of cookies for those long flights. :-)

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMG_0001.JPG
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  • IMG_0003.JPG

-Kent
Cozy IV N13AM-650 hrs, Long-EZ-55 hrs


#4 Kent Ashton

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Posted 21 April 2009 - 05:13 PM

Canopy latch. I have seen a bunch of ideas but I liked/stole this simple idea for a latch from Ken Ashley's very nice Varieze. A light spring (not in the picture) is attached to the forward end of the horizontal piece and runs to the small metal triangle riveted to the hinge. When the canopy handle is closed, it slides the nose of the horizontal piece up then the spring pulls it back down, latching the handle. Thanks, Ken.

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMG_0005.JPG
  • IMG_0004.JPG

-Kent
Cozy IV N13AM-650 hrs, Long-EZ-55 hrs


#5 wildbird

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Posted 22 April 2009 - 09:07 PM

I made my canopy latch very similar to the one in the photo. I also use a spring to latch it shut but I also attached a cable that goes to the back seat. From the back seat you can pull a knob similar to a cabin heat knob that when pulled it pulls down on the lever and realeases the latch. I then moved the canopy safety catch just forward of the roll over structure so that it can be easily reach from the front or the back seat. It works like a charm no more stuck in the back seat. Wild Bird

#6 Rich Goldman

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Posted 23 April 2009 - 11:08 AM

Quote, back seat passenger, "It's really hot in here, I'll just pull this ventilator knob......oops":( (The relocation of the safety catch mitigates this, however)
I Canardly contain myself!

Rich :D

#7 Kent Ashton

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Posted 21 May 2009 - 09:00 PM

Here is my rollover structure in primer. I still have to add a mount for a canopy stay and perhaps a GPS mount for the back-seater.

The main tube is 1.5"OD x .065W 4130 from Pro-werks. http://www.pro-werks...detail/C42-290/. The legs of the bend were long enough to use the excess to make the crossbar. I found a race car shop to bend two 7/8" OD x .049W 4130 support tubes. Bending wrinkled the 7/8 tubes a little so I welded in a reinforcement over the wrinkle on each side. It weighs about 6 1/2 pounds--heavy but I don't see how you could make one much lighter.

If I had to do it over, I would use a continuous 18" (or so) angle over each longeron rather than two pieces of angle on each side. It would make a stronger triangle for better support, I think. There would also be less warpage during welding. Might also move the mount for the support tube a bit further aft, too. Oh well, next time . . .

Some guys have put the support tubes on the forward side so the canopy brace can come down behind the structure.
-Kent

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMG_0002.JPG
  • IMG_0001.JPG

-Kent
Cozy IV N13AM-650 hrs, Long-EZ-55 hrs


#8 Kent Ashton

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Posted 21 May 2009 - 09:50 PM

This is an idea for brakes that I stole (and modified a bit) from Steve Velovsek's beautiful EZ. A very simple and light idea. Thanks Steve. The forward mount (piece of 2024 machined into a U shape) uses two AN3 bolts into the fuselage but has three holes so it can be shifted fore or aft a little if necessary. The forward mount is bolted into a piece of birch plywood with two embedded nutplates, floxed into the side of the nose and glassed with about four layers. I put the remote reservoirs on the side of the NG box. (The brake cylinder is just sitting on top of the fwd mount in the pic). If there is no good place for you to install the forward mount, you might use something like the third picture (found on the web) and mount them on the floor of the nose.

Attached Thumbnails

  • RudderPedals.jpg
  • IMG_0007.JPG
  • IMG_0006.JPG

-Kent
Cozy IV N13AM-650 hrs, Long-EZ-55 hrs


#9 TMann

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Posted 21 May 2009 - 10:05 PM

If there is no good place for you to install the forward mount, you might use something like the third picture (found on the web) and mount them on the floor of the nose.

That's the adjustable rudder pedals that Dale Martin makes (which I just finished the floor mounts for.) The cable feeds through the s-tube to an anchor point foward (which I made by floxing in two circles of 1/4 inch phenolic in FS 0.0.)

You can unbolt them from the floor and slide them either forward or aft and then bolt them down in their new position. There are two strips of thin phenolic with several nutplates imbedded in the floor.

You Cozy guys can't use them. :D
T Mann - Loooong-EZ/20B Infinity R/G Chpts 18
Velocity/RG N951TM
Mann's Airplane Factory
We add rocket's to everything!
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#10 Wayne Hicks

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Posted 24 May 2009 - 06:24 PM

This is an idea for brakes that I stole (and modified a bit) from Steve Velovsek's beautiful EZ. A very simple and light idea. Thanks Steve.

----> Steve and I were hangarmates for many years. Who do you think he stole it from? :-)
Wayne Hicks
Cozy IV Plans #678
http://www.ez.org/pages/waynehicks

#11 Kent Ashton

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Posted 07 September 2009 - 09:27 AM

I saw all this vacant space behind the sump and thought I could fit a square paper filter there. Came up with the first iteration (pic. 1) which might have worked but was clunky and would've required a deep cowl. Then I thought "Maybe I can fit the filter between the firewall and engine" and was well along on the second idea (pic.2 ). After discussing with friend Mark, became clear it was just too tight and going to be hard to incorporate carb heat. So I ended up making a filter box based on the box Vans vends and put the oil cooler in the space behind the sump. Had to extend the firewall to hide it all but I think it will look good and be fairly slick--hope the oil cooler cools. Hat tip: W. Blackler for the oil cooler door idea (pic 4).

Attached Thumbnails

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  • IMG_0001.JPG
  • IMG_0002.JPG

-Kent
Cozy IV N13AM-650 hrs, Long-EZ-55 hrs


#12 Edge 513

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Posted 07 September 2009 - 09:44 AM

That looks pretty darn snarky, if you ask me.:thumbsup:
Self confessed Wingnut.
Now think about it...wouldn't you rather LIVE your life, rather than watch someone else's, on Reality T.V.?
Get up off that couch!!! =)

Progress; Fuselage on all three, with outside and inside nearly complete. 8 inch extended nose. FHC done. Canard finished. ERacer wings done with blended winglets. IO540 starting rebuild. Mounting Spar. Starting strake ribs.

#13 Cozy1200

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Posted 07 September 2009 - 05:03 PM

Very nice work Kent. Where does the air for cooling the cylinder heads come from?
Drew Chaplin (aka the Foam Whisperer)
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Brace for impact...

#14 Kent Ashton

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Posted 07 September 2009 - 06:30 PM

Very nice work Kent. Where does the air for cooling the cylinder heads come from?


I'm using downdraft cooling but having second thoughs. With DD, you have to have two intakes for the cylinders, an intake for carb air and some sort of intake for the oil cooler; four intakes when you could pretty much do it with one large NACA intake on the bottom. The one Klaus sells would not be very hard to make:
http://www.lightspee...es/NACAduct.htm
I'm not sure DD is the best way to go but I'm committed for now.

-Kent
Cozy IV N13AM-650 hrs, Long-EZ-55 hrs


#15 Martin Fryer

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Posted 07 September 2009 - 07:03 PM

This is an idea for brakes that I stole (and modified a bit) from Steve Velovsek's beautiful EZ. A very simple and light idea. Thanks Steve.


Well since you all seem to be stealing. I may just steal that idea too...

Can you provide a few of the criticle measurements for the pedal to break hardware?

One additional observation: I cannot quite tell from your rudder pedal photos, but it appears that you have not reinforced the rudder cable attachement tab as called for in CP #30. Of course this is probably not as critical being that your master cylinders are mounted in front of the pedals.

Attached Thumbnails

  • rudder pedal failure.JPG


#16 Drew Swenson

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Posted 07 September 2009 - 09:09 PM

Kent, The real good thing with splitting up all the air like that---is that you know exactly where it is all going. 100% of your downdraft goes to cooling the cylinders---and nothing else. Nice looking work. Not sure I would have done the big naca on the bottom for new construction----maybe more like the ram air on a berkut. Regardless---looks very nice and will function well. I also like your ability to tune the oil cooler.

#17 Kent Ashton

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Posted 08 September 2009 - 07:34 AM

Can you provide a few of the criticle measurements for the pedal to break hardware?


My airplane is upside down; try to add a drawing later.

it appears that you have not reinforced the rudder cable attachement tab as called for in CP #30.


Good point but I think the tab is OK unless the rudder cable pulls on it at angle that makes it flex left & right. Maybe a bit more weld filler would help though.

One other thing: Depending on how you setup the master cylinder, you might need to add a retainer to limit the opening of the little arm on the pedal so that if the rudder pedal is pulled aft (like with a shoelace [BTDT]), the arm cannot drop down and jam the whole thing.

-Kent
Cozy IV N13AM-650 hrs, Long-EZ-55 hrs


#18 Lynn Erickson

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Posted 08 September 2009 - 08:25 AM

This is an idea for brakes that I stole (and modified a bit) from Steve Velovsek's beautiful EZ. A very simple and light idea. Thanks Steve.

The forward mount (piece of 2024 machined into a U shape) uses two AN3 bolts into the fuselage but has three holes so it can be shifted fore or aft a little if necessary. The forward mount is bolted into a piece of birch plywood with two embedded nutplates, floxed into the side of the nose and glassed with about four layers. I put the remote reservoirs on the side of the NG box. (The brake cylinder is just sitting on top of the fwd mount in the pic).

If there is no good place for you to install the forward mount, you might use something like the third picture (found on the web) and mount them on the floor of the nose.

why is the master cylinder link up so high on the pedal? it should be pushing from about 1/3 up from the bottom or there will not be enough leverage to get the required pressure. the one in the third picture is correct. yours with the link in the up position, where is starts to push on the master cylinder is way to high.
Evolultion Eze RG -a two place side by side-200 Knots on 200 HP. A&P / pilot for over 30 years

#19 Kent Ashton

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 11:00 AM

why is the master cylinder link up so high on the pedal? it should be pushing from about 1/3 up from the bottom or there will not be enough leverage to get the required pressure. the one in the third picture is correct. yours with the link in the up position, where is starts to push on the master cylinder is way to high.


You might be right, I'll have to see how it feels in use. Here's a picture of Steve Velovsek's setup. I haven't asked Steve about it but I suppose he's happy with it.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Brake setup.jpg

-Kent
Cozy IV N13AM-650 hrs, Long-EZ-55 hrs


#20 Lynn Erickson

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 12:12 PM

You might be right, I'll have to see how it feels in use. Here's a picture of Steve Velovsek's setup. I haven't asked Steve about it but I suppose he's happy with it.

I know it won't, been there done that. Steve's his linkage contacts the back of the pedal at about the 1/3 up on the pedal, on yours the linkage folds up to the point where it contacts the back of the lever near the top of the pedal. This means you will have to push with about 150 lbs. of force on the pedal to get it stopped. you need 500 psi of fluid pressure to stop. the cylinder is a 5/8" or .3 sq. inches. So to get 500 psi you need to push on the cylinder with about 150 lbs. to get it stopped, thats way to much. So if you have the pedal pushing at the 1/3 point you will require about 50 lbs. of force from you legs.
Evolultion Eze RG -a two place side by side-200 Knots on 200 HP. A&P / pilot for over 30 years




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