tonyslongez Posted January 14, 2008 Author Share Posted January 14, 2008 -welcom back. If your just tuning in. We're working on the lower engine mounts of our Berkut project that we obtained from a previous builder a few months ago. Pic 1) Here are the plys of bid lapping onto the firewall and the engine mounts. There is an excessive amount of glass that hangs over, this is trimmed away so no air is trapped at the edges. Pic 2) Here I am stippling the inner plys real good. I need to make sure no air is trapped in the layups between the engine mount brackets. (nice face full of fumes) Pic 3) This is what the engine mounts look like all trimmed up. Once it cures, I'll give it a quick sanding to knock down any edges. Otherwise, the engine mounts are now complete. Pic 4) This is a before shot, in case anyone forgot what it looked like when I got the kit. Coming up! We mount the spar on our Berkut project, and we'll take a look at the new landing gear. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mak790 Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 Could anyone tell me what is the main difference between pic 3 and 4 I can't notice. Just kidding:D Tony it's like day and night or heaven and hell. It's amazing you are doing really well:thumbsup: .Now I think that the previous owner wasn't drunk when he was doing this layup he was blind or he forgot to turn on the light:D Nr 4 the worst layup which I've ever seen actually it doesnt looke like layup (more like pudding or something hard to tell) Keep going Tony. Mak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyslongez Posted January 14, 2008 Author Share Posted January 14, 2008 Could anyone tell me what is the main difference between pic 3 and 4 I can't notice. Just kidding Mak that's really funny! Thanks for the support buddy. I almost forgot about the phenolics that need to go between the engine mount brackets. here are the pics Pic 1) This is the phenolic block 3 of the edges are radiused. The edge facing inboard is tapered. you can see it in pic 2. Pic 2) Trial fitting the phenolic. Here you can clearly see the tapered edge. Pic 3) A generous amount of flox is used to set the phenolic in place. Pic 4) One ply of bid is used to cover the entire block and engine mount brackets. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyslongez Posted January 16, 2008 Author Share Posted January 16, 2008 Today Dale and I mounted the spar. Here are the pics. Pic 1) I sanded the entire area of the firewall that was going to be involved with the layup. I brushed a healthy dose of resin in the sanded area. Pic 2 ) Here you can see the flox that was applied to the spar prior to install. In the video. you mount the spar with a glob of flox well dale wouldn't have any of that. We spread the flox evenly over the spar, tappering the flox at the edges. Pic 3) When you install the spar. you have to be careful not to get any of the flox scrapped off as you are inserting the spar thru the fuselage. You can see how the spar is as far forward in the cut out's as possible. Pic 4) Once the spar is in, it is clamped to the firewall. A large amout of flox was squeezed out. (I wish I had taken a pic of that). Pic 5) Here is the top of the spar. I'm applying two plys of bid 19"in long using the aluminum foil technique. Doing layups with foil really makes the job alot easier. Next Post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyslongez Posted January 16, 2008 Author Share Posted January 16, 2008 Pic 6) Here we have two plys of bid lapping onto the upper engine mount bracket, onto the firewall,and onto the spar. Pic 7) Once the two plys are on the engine mount. Two more plys of bid are applied lapping onto the firewall, onto the spar, and over the first two plys on the engine mount. Giving us a total of 4 plys onto the engine mount 2plys on the spar and firewall top and bottom. Pic 8) This is the right side (looking toward the nose) of the firewall no gap Pic 9) This is the left side of the firewall no gap:cool: The triangulation and level of the spar was absolutely perfect. Right on the money:thumbsup: Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Morrison Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 I must say Tony, taking a basket case as you have and transformed it into what you have now is remarkable. Your workmanship is outstanding and you will wind up with a great AC when you are finished. Your posts show what can be done to correct problems for people who buy unfinished projects ,which maybe have some quality build problems. Keep up the good work. Jack E Racer 113 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyslongez Posted January 16, 2008 Author Share Posted January 16, 2008 I must say Tony, taking a basket case as you have and transformed it into what you have now is remarkable. Your workmanship is outstanding and you will wind up with a great AC when you are finished. Your posts show what can be done to correct problems for people who buy unfinished projects ,which maybe have some quality build problems. Keep up the good work. Jack Thanks for the reply. I'm doing the best I can. I've been very lucky with this project, having Dale's help. That guy can build anything. Not to mention, the host of other characters that are helping as well. (names being withheld to protect the innocent). Anyway thanks for boosting my ego. I think the next set of pics will be of the new landing gear. I pic those up on saturday. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyslongez Posted January 19, 2008 Author Share Posted January 19, 2008 O.K. I recieved my landing gear parts this weekend from california. Here the pics. Pic 1) I started to polish my A and H arms last night. I'll finish that up this week. Pic 2) Here are the cnc billet upper gear legs. this is the top of the gear leg. Pic 3) Here is a side view of the upper. Pic 4) Not the greatest pic in the world. These are new main gear actuators. Very pretty. Pic 5) Carbon pre preg MG-30 bulkhead. WOW! All total was about $9000.00 dollars in machining and material cost. I still have to make the trunions. Which I will do myself. Now that I have a set of A and H arms. I can machine extras if I need to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Riley Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 Very nice Tony, the cross webbing on the upper fitting pivot arms is clever, I wish I'd thought of it. Are you going off the drawings for the pivot trunions? They're a lot more complicated than the A or H arms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cozy1200 Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 Very nice machining, Look GREAT!!! Quote Drew Chaplin (aka the Foam Whisperer) --- www.Cozy1200.com - I'm a builder now! --- Brace for impact... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyslongez Posted January 21, 2008 Author Share Posted January 21, 2008 Are you going off the drawings for the pivot trunions? They're a lot more complicated than the A or H arms. Richard May I direct you to post #217. Those are 3D solid works drawings of the trunions and upper gear leg. I drew those from a set of drawings. I'll give you time consuming to machine. Difficult! not at all. Very nice machining, Look GREAT!!! DMCHAPLIN. Yes they are pretty. They are a bit pricey though. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cozy Girrrl Posted January 21, 2008 Share Posted January 21, 2008 wow, very nice! Regards, Chrissi & Randi Quote CG Products www.CozyGirrrl.com Cozy Mk-IV RG 13B Turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyslongez Posted January 22, 2008 Author Share Posted January 22, 2008 wow, very nice! Regards, Chrissi & Randi Thanks Girrrls. Anyone can have a set for a mere $10,000. That includes the trunions. these gear are good for 3400lbs G/w. More pics coming soon. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyslongez Posted January 25, 2008 Author Share Posted January 25, 2008 Today Dale and I layed up the consoles. If you remember the early pics. I had to scrap the consoles do to the workmanship. I started reading the plans for installing the consoles and made a small modification. The plans called for the removal of the top twoo plys of bid and the removal of foam core to accomodate a piece of phenolic block for the seat belt. Well since this is new construction I went ahead a layed up the block and console in one shot here are the pics. Pic 1) console. with phenolic block Pci 2) Close up of the phenolic block (YES it got sanded) Pic 3) Once the layup is done I covered it with mylar and squeeged the excess resin out. I'll leave the mylar and peel it off after it cures. The finish is unbelievable. The reason I use mylar and not plastic is mylar will not stretch like plastic will. When you stretch the plastic it will shrink back into original relaxed state which will make a rinkle or intorduce air in that area. use mylar it works great. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyslongez Posted January 26, 2008 Author Share Posted January 26, 2008 Here is the console after the layup has cured. I don't know if you can see it but the finish is outstanding. Not that it really matters, the fuse will be sprayed with zolotone. but it's nice to make a light part. This week Dale and I are going to build an oven. I'm also going to get a vacuume pump and start bagging all these parts. Hopefully I can get some pre-preg material and play with that. I'm going to build the oven so it can reach at least 400deg. If you know where I might get some timed out pre-preg let me know. Pic 1) Console after the mylar has been removed. One other thing that I didn't mention in the last post. When you use mylar you have to wax it before you lay it over the wet fiberglass. Sorry it's just one pic that's all I had time for. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyslongez Posted February 8, 2008 Author Share Posted February 8, 2008 Today Dale and I got a full days work on the Berkut. Here is what we did. First let me start by saying this took almost 8hrs to accomplish. This has been some of the most tedious work yet, But it was perfect when we where done. Pic 1) Here is the Longeron clecoed in place Pic 2) Here is the longeron in the depression on the fuse. This is what took so damn long to fit. GOOD LORD. It wasn't hard but like I said earlier. Tedious, in the end the longerons where perfectly level and the fit and finish is outstanding. Pic 3) This was the really cool part. When the longerons where fit in the depressions. I noticed that the bottom of the longeron was sitting perfectly on top of the spar. The other longeron was exactly the same which verifies the spar is in the correct position, not that I didn't think it was, but it was nice to see some extra validation. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Wiechman Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 Tony, How about some construction details such as materials and layup schedule? Thanks, Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyslongez Posted February 9, 2008 Author Share Posted February 9, 2008 How about some construction details such as materials and layup schedule? Larry Can you be more specific? I only have layup schedules for the parts that I build from the construction manuals, which I have shared. I have know idea what the layup schedule is for premolded parts. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Wiechman Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 Larry Can you be more specific? Tony Tony, Sorry I wasn't clear. I am interested in the specifics of the longerons. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyslongez Posted February 9, 2008 Author Share Posted February 9, 2008 I am interested in the specifics of the longerons. Larry Sorry, I don't have that information. The longerons are a premolded part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Wiechman Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 Tony, Are they a wood core wrapped in carbon? Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyslongez Posted February 9, 2008 Author Share Posted February 9, 2008 Are they a wood core wrapped in carbon? larry No ! they are a mix of carbon and glass. The very tops of the longeron are a black gel coat. The rest of the longeron is carbon glass and foam. The gel coat might be something like this. http://www.fibreglast.com/showproducts-category-category-10.html Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyslongez Posted February 15, 2008 Author Share Posted February 15, 2008 Today Dale and I finished up installing the longerons and did a carbon layup inside the fuse. We also did a little finish work while we where at it. Pic 1) This is the backside of the longeron. I had to install the phenolics for the canopy latches. The phenolics are floxed in with two plies of bid over the top. Pic 2) This is two plys of carbon on the floor, extending up the side of the fuse as high as the consoles and lapping 2"in onto the instrument panel. Now many of you may ask WHY? Well heres the story. If you've never seen the bottom of a berkut fuse there is a noticeable lack of thick foam on the floor. Remember the plans on the long Ez that had the builder do this real elaborate floor with pockets of foam dished out of a 2"in thick block? Well that thick foam was great if you crashed, it meant the pilot was less likely to be ejected out of the bottom of the fuse. Well that type of floor doesn't lend itself to a production aircraft that uses molds for it's shape. So after talking with a few of my Indy buddy's. It was agreed that two plies of carbon would help prevent the ejection of the pilot out of the bottom of the fuse in the event of a crash. Look at Pic 4 this is Charles Brackens berkut. I know this was a bad crash but look where the fuse failed, right at the instrument panel. look what happen to the pilot seat, right out the bottom of the fuse. A few other Berkut crashes have revealed the same problem. So for my piece of mind, I'll put down the two plies of carbon. I'm also going to extend the carbon down the nose on the other side of the instrument panel. Pic 3) Here's Dale sanding the lip on the longeron. Pic 4) Charles Brackens airplane. (Over 10,000 views now, WOW!!) Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Riley Posted February 15, 2008 Share Posted February 15, 2008 Glen Waters did something you might consider. He installed a diagonal from the front upper lip of the thigh support, right at the instrument panel, forward about a foot and down to the floor. Made a triangular section to help absorb impact. Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyslongez Posted February 22, 2008 Author Share Posted February 22, 2008 Richard I'll have to look into that. Today Dale and I got to work installing the pilot seat bulkhead (PSB) and consoles. Here are the pics Pic 1) Here is the consoles microed into place Pic 2) This is a shot from above. You can see the carbon has been sanded all the way around. Pic 3) I remebered to use the tin foil technique this time. This is two plys of carbon 2"in wide Pic 4) Using the tin foil sure makes for a nice layup. Pic 5) Here is a shot of the PSB and and console layups. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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