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tonyslongez

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Everything posted by tonyslongez

  1. Fair enough. I like it. I'll consult my engineering friends as well to see if they concur. I f they do I will make them using a ball bearing. I think the NG-6 could be re-machined to be lighter as well. Tony
  2. Lynn (Evolultion Eze RG -a two place side by side-200 Knots on 200 HP. A&P / pilot for over 30 years ) Are you out there Lynn? Any answers? Can you give me anymore details as to how you determind the loads for the nose gear. What bearings are you using exactly? Tony
  3. the load on these bearings are not that high. How high are they? And how did you determine your conclusion that the loads are not that high?Just so that I may look it up, what bearing exactly did you use? Tony
  4. O.K. is preloading really an issue? I think ball bearings are not as good as the tapered bearings for this application, the tapered bearings handle the side loads better, and I think, and (could be wrong) but don't ball bearings have a much smaller contact patch than the roller bearings? I don't think I would use ball bearings. Consequently all of the landing gear components that I have collected in the last ten years, not a single one has a ball bearing in it anywhere, mostly just bushings. (with the obvius exception of the Berkut which I have replaced the ball bearings with bushings. Tony
  5. Drew I was going to get rid of it but decided that I would just finish it instead. I'll start posting soon. Lynn I'll be using the tapered roller bearings
  6. For my next trick. Billet NG-6
  7. Bruce You bet. send a DWG, DXF, iges, step. I'll take care of you Tony
  8. Made some hinges with the haas a few weeks ago. I made a few slight changes but otherwise this is the basic design. 11.6 oz. Tony
  9. O.K. Where was I? aah Yes. So I had the aileron molds welded up out of 6061 T6. I made them wide enough so that I could build both the left and the right. Pic 1) Here is the aileron sitting in the mold. the forward portion of the aileron is positioned at 70.deg Pic 2) Here is the aileron mold. I'll need to polish the mold before I make a set of ailerons in it. Pic 3) Here is the bottom of the mold where it was welded. I beveled the front edge at 45 deg. then had the trough filled. Pic 4) This is the bottom skin of the aileron. As you can see this mold will make the top and the bottom. Dale and I will be doing some layups this week.
  10. Dave Thanks I appreciate the encouragement/warning. I'm still young and Dale has his Long in our shop. Unfortunately it's a little to late for me to back out now, for an airplane. Who knows maybe if I'm successful I can afford a Berkut that's allready built and flying. Tony
  11. Yup a bummer indeed but. I have to do what I have to do. Tony
  12. I have a berkut 360 kit for sale. Please see my project on this forum for pics in the berkut section. call Tony 702-858-9380
  13. I want to say thanks to all of you have followed my Berkut project. Unfortunately I have to part with my Berkut Kit. So with that being said it is now for sale. Please P.M. me for further details. the reason for selling is I'm staring a business and this will be my start up capital. Tony
  14. I agree they need to be threaded. I have a few ideas for that very thing. I don't bother with you know who anymore whats the point? He's all over the map.
  15. Chrissy Don't want to get into the engine thing to much here, but Have you run your 13b yet? I want to put the mistral g300 on the berkut. I think the g200 might be a better fit. exspensive little buggers. I here Tracy is doing a P-Port or something?
  16. Yup I agree. It's a shame too, they sure are nice gear legs, a bit heavier than I like to see but S.O.C.K.S. That's spanish for "That's what it is." Tony BTW! The aluminum for the molded aileron molds have arrived they are being welded as I'm typing this. Should have them back in a few days, wait till you see this. Pics coming soon.
  17. well! I have the latest and greatest gear. I have pics on here somewhere. I'm sure if you probed your sources you could figure out where I got them. Hint Hint Tony
  18. Thanks Chrissi Here is one more rendering. This model is a little lighter than the other. Tony
  19. They may, I don't know to much about cozys. It wouldn't be hard to make the hinge wider if needed Yes I plan on selling these hinges. Alot of long Ez owners have shown interest in flip up style canopys, much like the Berkut. I have to make these hinges for my airplane anyway. I'll just make a bunch and sell them to others!
  20. Here is the final hinge assem for the berkut canopy. The nice thing about this, I can waterjet cut pretty much all of it. keeping costs down. I will have to post machine the counter bores no biggy.. Not sure if I want to tap the "Bow-Tie" cross brace or drill a thru hole and use a ny-lock nut. I'm open for suggestions. Tony
  21. I've been waiting for the aluminum to get here that I'm going to use for the aileron molds. Unfortunately U.P.S. lost it. They report I'll have it on Fri. We'll see. I took some time to put the tool changer back together on the Haas. I had all the parts powder coated, looks pretty good. Pic 1) The door of the tool changer slides out as the tool is being extracted this action keeps the chips out of the tool changer. Pic 2) In case anyone needs to change a door or spring in your Haas tool changer, You have to load the spring from the back. The weight of the cover is enough to keep the spring in place while you insert the cap screws. Tony
  22. Pic 1) Here is my new Haas machine in it's final resting place the machine weights in at a whopping 8,000 lbs. I used a 15,000lbs capacity fork lift to get it off the truck lots of fun. I added the rails to the front of the machine to hold some tooling. Pic 2) As I mentioned before. I was having some issues with the tool changer mainly because it was really dirty and full of chips. I don't think it's been serviced for a while. the pics out of order this is the carousel all cleaned up Pic 3) Got most of the chips out of the carousel. I had to tighten the allen bolts on some of the tool pincers. Part of the service. Pic 4) Here are the covers for the carousel which is kind of a boring pic but you can see how the paint is starting to come off . The covers are stainless, and with the paint flaking off it really gummed up the slide covers. Dale and I stripped them today, and now the're ready for paint. That's it for today more tomorrow. Tony
  23. Pic 1) O.K. aileron rib layout. Basically a piece of flat stock with some ribs drawn on it. Pic 2) Here is the bottom aileron skin this layup has a piece of 1/4in foam layed up with 2 plys of bid top and bottom. the foam is slightly tapered in the rear Pic 3) What I want you to see here is how the layup incorporates a "tube" so you just slide your steel rod into the tube and away you go. Pic 4) This is the bottom surface of the aileron it's hard to see but there is a slight joggle where the white primer ends. Later you'll see why that's there. Pic 5) Here is the top of the molded aileron this is just two pieces of 1/4in foam with two plys of bid top and bottom, the face has the aluminum plates embedded in it for the hinges. More on that later.
  24. O.k lots of things to talk about in this post. Last week I said I thought I had pics of our cowling plug and I found them here they are. Also, I'm starting the process of creating molded ailerons. I have pics of the Berkut molded ailerons and we'll get started building those. Dale and I will work on the molded canard and wings this week. I had some issues with the tool changer on the HAAS so I took some pics so you could see what I was doing. I know it's not building an airplane but pretty cool I think. Pic 1) Here you can see the bottom cowl and the body filler we used to make the cowl symmetrical. Dale made a very slight change in the rear of the cowl to ease the radius around the intake scoop. So it kinda melts into the rear of the cowls as opposed to being so pronounced. Pic 2) Again in this pic, easying the radii around the muffler and cylinder blister. Pic 3) Plug clecoed to the rear turtle deck. Pic 4) The cleco is in the way, but I assure you, the cowling and the top strake are absolutely a perfect match. Pic 5) More body filler
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