tonyslongez Posted June 22, 2006 Author Share Posted June 22, 2006 Here is the shock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyslongez Posted June 22, 2006 Author Share Posted June 22, 2006 here is the long nose hollowed out. Here is the new Ng30. This may change slightly to accomodate for some added bulkheads. As Marc Z. pointed out that sharp corner above the trunion pivot point is cause for concern, so that will have to be radiused a bit. I'll have to go back into autocad and see what kind of radius I can put there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc Zeitlin Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 .... As Marc Z. pointed out that sharp corner above the trunion pivot point is cause for concern, so that will have to be radiused a bit.Actually, what I pointed out was that the horizontal section above the knot in between the pivot point and the "4" in "4Ply" should be raised, and that the corner above the "P" in "4Ply" is the one that should be radiused, since that's a high stress area. Quote Marc J. Zeitlin Burnside Aerospace marc_zeitlin@alum.mit.edu www.cozybuilders.org copyright © 2024 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Witch Dr. Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 Marc. Is the raising of the horizontal area you mentioned simply to add some "beef" to that area to handle the mentioned stresses? It does seem as though there is not enough material there. Also, when making ,or remaking, that ng30 as you recomend would you also recomend radiusing that inside corner above the pivot hole? Vince Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyslongez Posted June 22, 2006 Author Share Posted June 22, 2006 Actually, what I pointed out was that the horizontal section above the knot in between the pivot point and the "4" in "4Ply" should be raised, and that the corner above the "P" in "4Ply" is the one that should be radiused, since that's a high stress area. Got it. Essentially where the battery is suppose to go, You want it extended up. How does this look? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc Zeitlin Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 Got it. Essentially where the battery is suppose to go, You want it extended up. How does this look?Much better. Vince, see the pics. That's what it should have looked like in the first place, but I can understand that on the L.E., a space was needed for the battery, with the original short nose. Quote Marc J. Zeitlin Burnside Aerospace marc_zeitlin@alum.mit.edu www.cozybuilders.org copyright © 2024 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyslongez Posted June 23, 2006 Author Share Posted June 23, 2006 Now What we need to do now is find an acceptable way to spread the side loads without adding to much weight. I'll draw it up to what I think it should look like and Marc you can critique it if you would. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyslongez Posted June 28, 2006 Author Share Posted June 28, 2006 Here is what NG30 looks like in the nose of the airplane. It's hard to see but I extended the bottom of the NG30 so that it would sit flush with the bottom of the nose what I want to do is glass the sides of the foam where the NG30 sit inside the foam well, then I'll glass the NG30 to that then I'll wrap the outer glass of the nose around the bottom of the nose and up into the inside of the NG30. It's hard to explain I'll draw some arrows on the pics. maybe that will shed some light. Now keep in mind this is NOT the new NG30 that Marc Z. wanted a little more material below the battery area this is the first one I cut out, but keep in mind the other one is very similar to this one. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpaton Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 Tony- That looks really nice. I might ask to crib your CAD templates for the OpenEZ if you keep this up. Toooooo sweet. And Smooooooth. Are you going to carve out the very end of the nose, or leave it intact? How about the pitot tube? Just curious thoughts running around my head as I stare at your pretty pictures, dream about my own EZ, and reread the PPL PTS again. -dave Quote This is not a sig. This is a duck. Quack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyslongez Posted June 28, 2006 Author Share Posted June 28, 2006 BIG DAAAAVE Good to hear from you buddy, glad you like the work. Yeah I'm not sure what to do about that bulkhead at the end of NG3o if you look close it does have a hole in it to run the Pitot tubing. I would like to hollow out that bulkhead, it's just a piece of 1/2in birch. The nose cone itself I made from a piper Arrow spinner. I put duct tape all over the spinner filled the inside with pour foam banged the prop flanges down smooth with the rest of the spinner and layed up 2 plys of BiD let it cure and popped it off the next day PERFECT nose cone. anyway I'll keep putting pics up to show my progress. As far as your airplane Dave!! go out and buy some darn foam and fiberglass and get to building man, we aint gettin no younger shonneeee Tony _____________________________________ Why is that goat standing on a cloud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyslongez Posted June 28, 2006 Author Share Posted June 28, 2006 Here are the "pot hole" NG30's no holes drilled as of yet, I'll take care of that tomorrow. This is, at least for me, the final design for the NG30 bulkheads. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpaton Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 Heh...an Arrow spinner hmm? Excellent MacGuyverism...sounds like something I'd do. No foam and glass yet. Trying to balance home repair (roof & siding) with plane needs. Still planning on doing the canard and the wings before the fuse...since they won't change much, and the tub will be modified (extensively?). Right now I'm saving for Featherlite cores and a worktable. It's a sloooooow process, but I'm OK with that. Even if I'm not making plane parts every day, I'm saving a buck or two for the DP-EZ fund, planning things out on paper, or trying to get those damn RAF templates to cooperate so I can add the changes to them. It's slow, but steady. I'll be building something before you know it. Headed to OSH? I'm dragging my dad along from the 28th-30th this year. The new bulkheads look nice. One question though. How high up onto the inside of the NG30s are you going to run the glass from the bottom of the fuse? I can't imagine it'll be fun to do the whole thing....and what about the clearance from NG30s to the nose gear? -dave Quote This is not a sig. This is a duck. Quack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyslongez Posted June 28, 2006 Author Share Posted June 28, 2006 One question though. How high up onto the inside of the NG30s are you going to run the glass from the bottom of the fuse? I can't imagine it'll be fun to do the whole thing....and what about the clearance from NG30s to the nose gear? Dave I planned on just running the outer glass of the nose up the inside of the NG30 only about 3in and what about the clearance from NG30s to the nose gear? Dave don't be mad;) but I'm not sure what you mean by that question can you give me a reference. The NG30 position is the same as the plans and the clearances for the strut are the same as plans. I hope that helps Roofing Sux!! was a summer job for me when I was in J.R. High no fun at all I feel for you buddy. As far as the RAF templates what exactly are you doing with them? is there anything I can do to help you? let me know. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpaton Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 No madness here Tony. The clearance I was talking about was the inside distance between NG30s, relative to the width of the nose gear. Of course, after I posted it, I remembered you're doing a custom nose gear, so you can make the gear fit the bay without any trouble. I only asked because Glos related the story of installing his new electric nose gear, and he had minimal clearance (1/64" or so). His retrofit was complicated for other reasons, but the clearance was tight enough he had concerns there too. Roofing, siding, and concrete are the only things I don't do in large quantities, and my house needs all 3 of them in the next 5-7 years. I'm debating how I can afford $50k in house repairs, not even considering yet how to do it while working on a plane. Not my idea of a good time. The RAF template work I'm doing is to unify the sheets into single documents. One or two for airfoils, one for each bulkhead, one for the other stuff. Right now there's a lot of cutting and taping one needs to acomplish to get the templates together. I'm aiming to fix that, and at the same time, fixing the image skewing and distortion that's present in all of them. My own version will be a modification of those. See the OpenEZ thread for more of my plans. -dave Quote This is not a sig. This is a duck. Quack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
velocity dreamer Posted July 9, 2006 Share Posted July 9, 2006 quick question. when making the longer nose, do you leave the nose landing gear in the same place or do you move it forword too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyslongez Posted July 9, 2006 Author Share Posted July 9, 2006 NO The nose gear position does NOT change all we are doing is extending the material of the NG30 bulkhead from the gear mounting point out and up. Do not change the pivot location. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnum Posted July 14, 2006 Share Posted July 14, 2006 Hello all, I'm building a modified longe EZ / Berkut style plane and Im working off the Terf CD. What I need is the template drawing for the NG 30 bulkhead or a pdf format that I can enlarge / get the exact measurements from for the hard points and foam. Please PM me or respond here if you can help! Thanks Tom Quote "Time flys when your building" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Matcho Posted July 14, 2006 Share Posted July 14, 2006 If you need original EZ dimensions and drawings, check the Open-EZ thread. You can modify however you want to make your own nose shape. If you want dimensions for Tony's nose pictured earlier in this thread, then Tony is the only one who can provide you with that info. Quote Jon Matcho Builder & Canard Zone Admin Now: Rebuilding Quickie Tri-Q200 N479E Next: Resume building a Cozy Mark IV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnum Posted July 14, 2006 Share Posted July 14, 2006 Jon, I just went thru Tonys drawings again thinking I may have missed it, but I can not find a drawing for the NG30 . Do you know wich file it is or can you send it to me? I think for some reason, I didnt get all the files. Thanks Tom Quote "Time flys when your building" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Matcho Posted July 14, 2006 Share Posted July 14, 2006 You'll have to ask Tony about his design... I'm not sure I have the latest files either. I only know about the Cozy, AeroCanard, Long-EZ and Open-EZ designs. Quote Jon Matcho Builder & Canard Zone Admin Now: Rebuilding Quickie Tri-Q200 N479E Next: Resume building a Cozy Mark IV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyslongez Posted July 14, 2006 Author Share Posted July 14, 2006 Magnum I'll be glad to e-mail you those e-mail me at tonyslongez@cox.net I'll send them over. 702-858-9380 "just in case" Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnum Posted July 15, 2006 Share Posted July 15, 2006 Hey, The long or open design will work as well as a stock long drawing. I will modify it to my shell. I just need some measurements Thanks guys! :thumbsup: Tom Quote "Time flys when your building" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
velocity dreamer Posted July 19, 2006 Share Posted July 19, 2006 Does anyone reading this thread have any idea when we lengthen the fuese what would happen if we lengthend the inboard strake where it attatches the fuse. This would keep near the same room on the inside. A VE pilot i know has also flown the long and says he likes the extra arm room in the front because of the strakes. I would like to lengthen mine but dont want to lose the arm room. Thanks in advance Lynn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyslongez Posted July 25, 2006 Author Share Posted July 25, 2006 Hey Lynn I haven't heard of anyone doing that .I don't think I stretched mine at all but it seems like a doable mod without to much fuss. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyslongez Posted August 6, 2006 Author Share Posted August 6, 2006 Here are the new NG30 layed up in carbon and fiberglass. Marc Z. are you still out there? If you can stand to help me figure something out I would appreciate it. It involves that torsional issue we talked about. What I want to do is lay the nose up per plans 2ply bid then I want to lay say 12"in wide Uni Carbon strip from the right side of the fuselage up over the top of the nose around the tip back over the top finishing up on the other side of the fuselage like a basket weave. Now the Ng30 will be joined to the nose on all 4 sides from the inside. Can that work? I think it will make the whole inside of the nose one giant bulkhead. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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