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Tony's EZ: Long nose


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The idea behind these drawings that I will be posting are for the most common of modifications, one being the longer nose. I have all dimensions for the new ng30 that will be needed to make a long nosed canard. All modifications that will be posted here are ones that I have completed on my aircraft. These drawings are for education purposes only. I will not be responsiible for there use. I encourage everyone to do their own research on the modification of their own aircraft. That being said enjoy the drawings.

I will post drawings later this evening.

 

Tony

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Sounds good Tony. I'll have my openEZ templates tonight, and hopefully I'll have the prints from the ez.org drawings this weekend. Is it safe to assume that the drawings mentioned in your post are related to the ones over at ez.org?

 

-dave

This is not a sig. This is a duck. Quack.

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They are one and the same my friend. I drew those and gave them to the Ez.org guys first before I discovered this site. So I'll post them in the PDF format and you can just build right from those dimensions or put in your own to customize it a bit. Those drawings are good jumping off spot.;)

 

Tony

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Well then, that would explain it nicely. EDIT: I'm going to need to do some cutting and pasting to get things down to a place where they can be printed though, even if I do pay for the 36" wide prints off of the DesignJet at Kinkos. Hmmm...:D

 

-dave

This is not a sig. This is a duck. Quack.

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Indeed I am. I'll be driving up Thursday night and heading back home on Sunday. I'm hoping that the Cozy forum will be late enough in the week that I can make it, and I plan to stop by and see as many Canardians as possible this year.

 

I'm dragging my dad along this year, mostly for nostalgia, since we went religiously from 88 to 97, when he was flying, and then never more after he lost his medical. He's as pumped as I am. We're staying in town, just over the river. I got the last room in town, literally. I called every single hotel within 30 miles, and I got the last room at the last dive with beds and showers.

 

-dave

This is not a sig. This is a duck. Quack.

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In my dad's case it was indeed eyesight related. All sorts of diseases and medical conditions can cause the medical to be pulled, as well as certain medications. This site will tell you all you need to know.

 

-dave

This is not a sig. This is a duck. Quack.

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  • 1 month later...

Anyone had luck printing TonyslongEZ's CAD drawings at FedEx Kinko's? The two Kinko shops in my town keep wanting to convert them to PDF's. (On EZ.Org Tony mentioned the PDF's won't print to scale) The few other shops that can handle it want an excessive amount of $ to do it. (hundreds)

 

If anyone knows of a store location that can handle the job, post it and we can do an online order with them.

 

Thanks

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In my experience, you need to find the right person at your Kinkos. There are a half dozen regular folks behind the counter at mine, and I talked to them all before I got the guy I talked about in the other thread, the geeky kid who was totally into the idea of a DIY airplane, and took some extra time to ensure that everything I wanted printed was correct. It still won't be cheap, since I believe that the printout needs to be made on 36" paper stock, or there abouts, but I'm sure it can happen.

 

Unfortunately, all I can offer is that, since I haven't printed my copies out yet.

 

-dave

This is not a sig. This is a duck. Quack.

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Tom

 

You can convert them to a PDF if you want to. All of the dimensions are there. It's very easy to transfer the dimensions right to the foam. I deliberately set them up that way so we didn't have to build them on top of the plans. You can simply transfer the dimensions. All the cuts are pretty much straight cuts. NG30 is just extended slightly to support the top foam. The battery box dimensions are the same as the plans, so you can use those dimensions off of your originals. I have those drawings in PDF if you need them. If you need any other dimensions let me know and I'll add them to the drawings.

 

Tony

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Tony

 

I'll take you up on the PDF's if you don't mind. I know I can get those printed. I'm not big into using CAD so I prefer to have paper in hand. (Easier on the eyes.)

 

BTW those Open EZ ‘A’ drawings printed great.

 

Thanks a bunch.

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Regarding PDFs, this file format is the most widely support and accepted for exchange documents and ensuring that they can be faithfully reproduced from printer to printer. Note what the acronym stands for: Portable Document Format. Any thought that PDFs cannot be faithfully reproduced is false.

 

BTW those Open EZ ‘A’ drawings printed great.

Just so that nobody is confused, Tonys EZ project is entirely separate from the Open-EZ project -- they are two different aircraft designs.

 

Tony, when/if you get a chance next, please send me your most current set of your files and I'll upload for anyone to download. If I have the most current, just let me know, but now would probably be a good time to identify which files you actually want published.

Jon Matcho :busy:
Builder & Canard Zone Admin
Now:  Rebuilding Quickie Tri-Q200 N479E
Next:  Resume building a Cozy Mark IV

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The Open-EZ was printed 1:1 and came from 18" x 24" source drawings. You can setup to print on any paper size you like, but keep in mind that Kinkos charges per square foot (I think $0.75/ft^2).

Jon Matcho :busy:
Builder & Canard Zone Admin
Now:  Rebuilding Quickie Tri-Q200 N479E
Next:  Resume building a Cozy Mark IV

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  • 2 weeks later...

Bob

 

The open Ez project is more of a work donated program that more or less is a free long ez that I think is closer to the original plans. When John M. and I first started talking about it the decission was made to have an open forum Ez and the TZ long Ez. the mods on my airplane are in fact the longer nose, the front seat bulkhead is 4"in wider and the backseat bulkhead is 2"in wider. I also have retracts on my airplane and a steerable nose gear that I'm finishing up on. You can check out my project at www.myairplane.com go to construction log and click on tonyslongez. I have to upload more pictures this week but you'll get the general idea.

 

Tony

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Well this is it the final design for steering. This design allows 43 deg of steering. (could be more if I make the bell crank bigger). Sorry for the rendering some times Rhino doesn't always agree with Autocad, I actually have the whole fuselage built in CAD. What you are looking at is as simple as it gets. First, notice about three quarters of the way up the strut tube is a small bracket this is where your retract mechanism attaches (Jack Whilhemson) it is in the stock position (that has not changed). If you are going to use this setup with a stock NG30 as far as I can tell you will need to modify it to look like this one at least around the nose gear trunion area. The NG30 you see in the rendering, is the one I'm using, which is in fact the same one that I have posted on the EZ.org site minus the lightning cut out in the front.

 

O.K. next shift your attention to the nose gear steering fork(gold in color) this rotates side to side, steering your wheel down below. The shaft protruding from the center of the fork is for another aspect of dampning not discussed here, this will be the next set of drawings. (I left it there for clarity) the shaft coming out of the center of the steering fork rotates inside the strut tube which for me will be 2.5in carbon fiber tube with a .750 hole down the center this hole will contain the bushings for the steering rod.

 

The bellcrank (red) is pretty straight forward it is attached to NG30 with a small alluminum plate not shown in the drawing for reasons stated earlier. At the end of the bellcrank (looking towards the nose) there is a single shaft that protrudes down into the steering fork, at the end of this shaft is a normal sealed bearing this bearing transfers the input to the fork (pretty straight forward). Now when we retract our nose gear no matter what the input is, the fork is going to move away from the bellcrank bearing, once the steering fork is clear of the bearing the fork will continue down into the NG30 strut. Now if the last input into the fork is right or left. In other words, if the fork is not centered as it is going into the strut well, the outer edges will contact the side of NG30 and right itself straight before the wheel enters the wheel well. I plan on using a small piece of delrin on the side of NG30 only where the fork arc travels into the strut well not a real big piece just enough so it doesn't rub the glass as it's going in, or coming out. Simple as pie right?:rolleyes:

the gas strut tubes are of the hatch back type relatively inexspensive I have two that are 15lbs not sure what I need just yet, as I get the parts back form the waterjet cutter I'll have a better idea as I start assembly. So basically the gas strut tubes attach to your rudder pedals if you push on both struts at the same time you will put equal preasure on the bellcrank which in turn will keep your nose straight and allow you to break simply let off a little preasure on either side and now you are steering and differential breaking just like our (POS) Cessna. In this configuration however you won't be able to just differential break at some point you will be steering the wheel at all times during gorund operation.

 

One other thing I forgot to mention. No matter what rudder input is given during the exstention period the steering fork is cut in such a way that as it is engaging the bearing it will automatically translate the input into the wheel.

 

see you next time on this old plane :D

 

Tony

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