steve

you can post with the add attachment/browse/your com/picbut only 499 kb per shot. as per your post, i think you mean to say "revive the micro/paint not the glass work, because if the glass is dry then it was junk and never should have been flying. just don't cut the top glass over 50% and balance the ailerons and elevators, do a wb. clear as mud right ? you should know how they are built so you can see if something is bad and going to kill you(or me on the ground). find someone close that can oversee some of the repair in the start then rock and roll. if you have already sanded to much, it can be fixed easy. lots of help can be found on this forum for that bird (plans,layups,parts,est.)

wow, it sure looks big ! i have my last wing on the floor doing the rear spar in the am and the aileron in the pm. soon i will be as you and mount them:D

i wish i had

good time to replace the striped out bolts in the fire wall with click bonds;)

i think i would say yes to that, i explain..i had the bolts in as per plans and was ready to mico but i could tell already that i was going to have to remove the bolts in order to do that:mad: so i thought to my self "if i had used jd's bolts I'd be micoing now:p " so in just a minute or two had the click bonds in and the bolts out. (I'm sure they are stronger then the stock application when it comes to riping out)imo

the plans are the ladder of witch you speek.3=6" 2=4" 3=8" so most just trade an3's for the click bonds. (i did) same for rudder..7

i think its mico pin hole, if the mico is to thick and you blade it on then remove as much as you can, you are left with the fruits of your labor and in your case not all the fome was filled. then you got it wet with epoxi and the epoxi filled the holes giving you the look you see in the pic.YMMV try a layup with thiner mico (creamy penutbutter) and i think(baring what others has said) it will go away

sounds like good old fish eye put a drop of killer in your gun and re-shoot. look at the hole with a magnuifin glass and see if you see the basecoat to confirm.(pin hole will be much deeper)YMMV

heres a exert from a old CP you mite find fun, Prior to the seminar, Charlie Gray had got hold of a reject canard that we looked at and Burt agreed that it should not be installed on an airplane. We decided to do an informal static load test to destruction. So we called for people weighing about 175 lb. With Burt positioning each person for correct load distribution, we proceeded to try to fail the canard. We got 18 people (not an easy task, very little room!) on it before we finally got a few minor cracks. At this point, Burt calculated we had 11.54 g's on it, and it still would have got the airplane home. It did not fail catastrophically. Someone must have photos of the 18 people on it. We didn't get one, unfortunately.

pic, would be nice. first guess would be not, you can work around it,or clean it. chapter 4 is seat back and ? bulk heads. it would be hard to mess them up. if the grease is .05 of the part and will only allow 45% bond, so you will lose .000001% so in short you seat back is 120% - .000001 = 119.00001% this math will not work on all parts. but its safe to say your seat back will still fly. remember this.....in 2-10 years your butt will fly this ! so do what feels right to you, not me (i have 10 in my plane i bet)

very cool.....

bend at the knees my plane is dyslexic ...not !me

i cant find the thread, but it was stated that the ailerons were cut 90 deg from the TE so they would clear the wing as they moved up and down (and have a small low-drag gap). last month a had asked that very same question about the rutter cut out:confused: no reply, from the forum so i guessed and based on that thread my cut will not work. or will it...........

now that iv done it, the answers are easy when you the sheer web, jig like the plans and support the end of the winglet and lay up the hole web at one time.[\end] i did the bottom tapes as one, but cut them 3 feet longer for the stab and let them dangle until i got the wing part done then trimmed and did the stab. but it was a lot of work and later just tapered the wing tape then the next night i did the stab and tapered over the wing tape. doing it in two parts was a lot smarter. #3. it was tested to 175knt in a full slip (can we say the force of a sail boat) if you blend it, there is no way to keep the top and bottom skins from coming apart as you load the winglet. the old way has inside layups to do that very thing. that is why i did the sher web (I-BEAM), you have something holding it together. the rest is simple. i don't know about Jacks but mine is the same hight as per plans and has the same "wrt "mark. but if i stand back and look, i thing it has a one deg tilt inward. PS. Marc has never seen my plane or my work on it, and has not helped build it. there are lots of builder that have seen it and " all " of them do not need or want a ten foot pole.*end of rant*

4000 and 10 hour build....very cool

i was not able to build it the way it is shown in the plans.the bearing is recessed and will need to be supported on both sides. girls, do you sell a .2 to go with the .6 spacer ? one for both sides ? or do you just washer one side ? (i cant believe jerry tryed to swipe my thread, probably a boring flt anyway:thumbsup: )

how odd you would say this ? ?the blend i did turns out to be the same you told jack to do did you forget what you said?

thx greg, that jerry guy just cant be trusted, did you know he lives in a tent ?

it holds the "L" in the root of the wingthe two thin al bkts that bolt to the rear of the wing have a bolt(an4) that holds the bearing. this spacer is inside the bkts. mud,clear as

was looking for the cs 131 in the book and it said to look on page 16-3, so i did. and there is nothing there:yikes: is this mistake # 32 or did i miss something ? CG's can you help me plz:o is it 2024 ? 0r 4130?

on my seat back it looked like i had lots of air. it turned out to be epoxy bubbles. as my wet layup was squeegeed out, it mix with the micro. if you have a old dry scrap, try looking under the layup. on the brite side, your seat will be just fine as is:D but do find out whats going on !

its all in the paper(water). clean is the keysand it with 1000 for about a day (this is the last chance you'll have to remove any flaw at all) then go up in grit IE 1500, 2000,4000...polish with a fine grit. all rags need to be cotton with no thread or seams. bad windows may need 400 but you'll be sanding with 600 for two days to remove the 400 .

any where you need the glass to bond to glass and you cant or don't have a 1" over lap to work with. and the seat back had such a joint at the bottom(?)and you(we) carved out the foam and replaced it with flox (but you know that:p ).

i use a large long neck dermal like tool with a tear drop shape course bit.i go fast untill i hit white micro then i slow way down and cut away at it a little bit at a time. i have other air tools that work, but this is the best for me. tool town and its 150.00

2.conceited and overconfident of knowledge but poorly informed and immature sounds just like you:D fun to read..............now wheres the photo bub