Lynn Erickson

I would go for the cubes. maybe with a carb if its a money thing. the 320's are OK for a cozy and just to small for a cozy IV. the 320 cost very close to the 360 and the 360 is easier to maintain, they seem to last longer between top overhaul, they don't have to work as hard. the last thing you will want to do is change engines after the test flight phase. there is a lot more work to the engine install then people realize. and if you change engines it is like a new install all over again. during the test phase the one thing you can count on is the airframe, built to the plains, it will fly fine. the things you are really testing are the support systems, engine, avionics, brakes and the pilot. how many cozys do you see not meeting all the flight test data of all the other cozys. they all fly the same, it is the other systems that make them fly a little different

Ya, I would buy it just for the art deco thing. it is missing the OSHA approved belt guard so i can't use it my shop. pretty ridiculous when I can't drive a band saw without a belt gaurd but I can fly an airplane with a whirling prop. the only difference is the belt could hurt you?

some one needs to pick up the old bandsaw so I can come and admire it. i think this was made about the same time they invented the saw blade and before dirt. and it is a full 1/3 HP no less. http://cgi.ebay.com/BAND-SAW_W0QQitemZ250207302674QQihZ015QQcategoryZ20784QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

it is the wire that comes in the hinge. it is plated steel music wire. spruce sells it by it self. the hinge wire should be changed to ss anyway as the other wears the plating off and then rusts. the rust grinds away at the aluminum hinge.

the nose is longer so it fares in better. there are many that were built with a longer nose. the canopies do vari a bit but it is mostly the height it is mounted at that makes a difference. some taller builders had to mount them that way for more head room.

you don,t need to angle the hinges they stay open. this is my set up and it always works. wider is better as some times the wheel is not perfectly straight but it always makes it in the well. the bent spring material keeps the doors straight and the straight spring keeps the doors open no matter what the air flow. when the gear strut contacts the straight spring it bends and pulls the doors closed.

The reason they went to the castings was because the gear legs were splitting and the upper pivot and the axle bolt holes. the gear was made of uni carbon with no cross fibers and very little bid wrapping. mine are made of uni carbon that is layed up with a 10 degree crossing fiber every other ply and rapped with 10 plys of glass bid

The reason they went to the castings was because the gear legs were splitting and the upper pivot and the axle bolt holes. the gear was made of uni carbon with no cross fibers and very little bid wrapping. mine are made of uni carbon that is layed up with a 10 degree crossing fiber every other ply and rapped with 10 plys of glass bid. I used the KP-8 bearing at first but two cracked. One of them cracked and the balls came out. they are control arm bearings and are not rated for the load. I switched to the plain spherical bearings rated at 9000 lbs and they have been fine.

while building the plane in a nice warm shop and showing everyone that visits how roomy it really is, you come to the day when it is winter and the plane is outside. then the reality is realized, you can fit in the plane or your big heavy jacket will fit in the plane but you wearing your big heavy jacket, not so much, a little tighter then you would like.

I'm trying to picture someone getting into a Cozy wearing a Survial suit with a sat phone in one hand and a dye canister in the other.

looks a bit over kill, why does it need to be so intricate I used 1/4" thick angles, the same thing the long eze uses to support the gear. the load is mostly down on the trunions and most of the load is up into the longeron area. the bearings are 3/8" spherical bearings mounted in the gear leg. the h and a links have solid brass bushings on 3/8" AN bolts. the upper part of the gear leg shown as casting in your drawing could be made all on piece with the lower gear leg. mine is all carbon but could be made as one piece aluminum from Grove. there is a one off canard at chino with this type gear. and there is an eracer at Hemet that is mounting this type after an off field landing took out his original glass gear. the gear leg in the pic is for a KR 2. the size material would be a bit larger to support the berkut

I might of confused some of the terms, here are some of the pics I can find right now

It will set hard, it may take several days in cold weather. the resin will harden even in the freezer. many of my layup were done with the hanger door open and the sun shining on the part as I did the layup. and the shop would cool to 40 at night but in a few days it would set hard. do some of those practice layups and get use to the way the resin system works. the time spent learning now will save you time later

I agree, Go back to the basics and do your layups by the plans at first. do some flat layups on the table covered with release tape if you want to practice. the layup won't be wasted as you will find many uses for the flat glass as tabs and supports as you build. wet is better then dry. even if you made all the layups wet I doubt you could add 1 gallon of resin to the entire plane but if you did it would only be 10 lbs. heavier. likewise if you vacuum bag everthing the most you will save is about 10 lbs. vacuum bagging does add time and money to the project, especially if you are hard shelling first before you do a layup, this is one unneeded step and if done on all the layups is a lot of extra time spent.

If you use Grove gear why do you need the upper trunion? just bend like the original gear legs and drill the end for the pivot. can also be drilled for the brake line.The newest Berkut legs were made with a flat piece of G10 as a center core with carbon on both sides. the flat gear leg is clamped to the trunion and wheel spindle casting. like the nose strut

I get asked a lot about the gear and there are builder that do need the gear to complete there project. let us know about what the cost will be and give the idea some time to get the word spread and I think there will be more then you may think that will want the parts.

Continental tried that with the Tiera engines but had alot of problems with prop vibrations breaking the gears that drive the cam.

when you lean an air cooled lyc. and go lean of peek the temps go way down anyway until they get a little to cold for my liking. when at altitude I can lean to 6.5 gal/hr and still have a ground speed of 200. I doubt liquid cooling is going to be 38% better then that. besides at altitude the temps are almost to cool

I don't under stand what berkut parts have to do with drybread gear. they are of the same concept but the parts are very different. the drybread gear is made to fit in a long eze without changing the back seat. it has a single actuator placed under the back seat floor and the arms that raise the gear are all one piece with the gear leg. it is the same as Velo gear. the berkut gear will not fit in a long or cozy without taking up 12" of the back seat area and loosing about 8 gallons of fuel on each side. the berkut gear is a good system. my gear is a one off of the berkut/ Shirl Dicky design with over 1000 landings. I have no back seat so the space it takes up is not a problem. it is a lot more exposed then the Drybread gear and that make it easier to work on. the strake tanks are extended inboard to make up the 8 gallons lost where the wheel wells that extend into the strakes

Thats 16 lbs. for a prop on a 80 HP motor.

83 makes thicker epoxy then 84. 84 is a little slower. I use 87 most of the time it is slower and is best for big layups in hot weather

Thats a lot of numbers. On my IO360, 1.2 is about what I see on the manifold gauge when I switch from the filter to the direct ram air. Numbers aside the difference between the two on a sea level take off is worth every bit of the little drag of the scoop. the difference starts at about 150 mph and makes about a 500 ft./ min increase in climb rate. As to the drag issue, the air has to get to the engine somehow. even if it comes in with the cooling air into the cowling it is still creating drag. if some of the air goes for engine intake then that is air not used for cooling. the total of intake and cooling drag is the same weather it is in one scoop or two. why would you not take advantage of the higher pressure air and pipe it directly to the intake.

the rack works OK on the uni but not on the bid it is best to roll it out on the table to cut. the bid does not work well when pulled off a roll as it tends to distort and strech the fabric out of shape.

So what makes sense? the canopy was not latched and when it opened the cover was sucked out and went thur the prop?

If you have not seen it. it will take a couple of weeks to read and a good resource its just one of the good thing on WWW.EZ.orghttp://www.ez.org/2000ways.htm