Lynn Erickson

the 5.00 -5 have been used by some but they are a bit big for a long ez they are heavy and expensive. they require a big set of wheel pants. the 3.40 tire were used on the early Varieze's but not used much anymore. the tire most use on a long ez and vari eze's is the 4.00-11.00 by 5 lamb tire, lamb sold out to Chin shin a few years ago who still makes the same tire. as you can see they are a bit cheaper then the 500- 5's. about 5 times less. you may want to check with Matco to find out which wheels you have, there is a difference in the wheels used with the different tires. the tube valve stem is in a different position. On the front we use the 2.80/2.50 by 4 tail wheel tire about an 8" diameter. they cost more the the main tires. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/tailwheeltires.php http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/lambtires_tubes.php

the 5.00 -5 have been used by some but they are a bit big for a long ez they are heavy and expensive. they require a big set of wheel pants. the 3.40 tire were used on the early Varieze's but not used much anymore. the tire most use on a long ez and vari eze's is the 4.00-11.00 by 5 lamb tire, lamb sold out to Cheng Shin a few years ago who still makes the same tire. as you can see they are a bit cheaper then the 500- 5's. about 5 times less http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/lambtires_tubes.php

This is a good look. what if you bond it with epoxy that is colored with black pigment. one of the problems I see , if you still have the split between the canopy and turtledeck is that the plexi will have an exposed edge and if it gets hit with something it will start a crack that will never end. another way is to build it the plans way and paint the structure black with a tinted clear over the black to match the effect of glass over the structure.

if you are going to keep it one piece back to the windows then why have windows? just leave it all clear. if you want to block of some of the open space you can paint the under side of the canopy to look like windows ala the edge of a car windshield. you can by the dot pattern masking to paint that type of pattern. the only reason for the turtle back is because you need to fill the space between the canopy and the engine cowling or there might be a bit of a draft on the back of your neck.

You must be doing something that is not in the plans. what or why are you trying to bond to the underside of the canopy? that stuff is used on boat windows and is used on the RV because it is able to fill the gap between the plexi and a poorly fitted metal frame.

I do have one argument to this, then why are standard certified com antennas made out of thin stainless wire

Waiter, I see on your website that you installed a fuel purge valve. can you tell us what it does?

you could put the copper foil type antenna on the surface and a layer of tape over it or do as I have on many canards. use copper tube about 3/16" diameter or 14 gauge solid copper wire. insert it in the foam winglet by pushing it upward into the foam for the vertical leg 20.3" long and one in the wing foam for the horizontal leg also 20.3" long connect the shield conductor of the antenna wire to the horizontal leg and the center conductor to the vertical leg. put three torroids on the wire just as in the foil type antenna. many will say both of the legs should be vertical and they would not be wrong. many will say that the thin wire will narrow the band with and they would not be wrong. and I would say just do it this way, it works great. its not perfect some days I have had a little trouble hearing Denver center from So. Cal. but as soon as I get to the Colorado river they are load and clear

UP here we call it 200 mph racing tape, we must be on a faster pace here then the boys down under . its just Duct tape. but on this forum it is known as Cozy IV tape. also know as a life saver and if you don't know any other way to fix it, you try and tape it. http://www.ducttapeguys.com/duckvsduct.html

in the pics it looks like Jacks E racer, blended winglets and the paint job looks like his. I'm very sorry for the loss and hope he is OK. http://www.nbc5.com/news/16673990/detail.html http://abclocal.go.com/wls/story?section=news/local&id=6219902

another one with the vertical surfaces in the wrong place. I don't remember the name but many years ago there was a rutan type built with the verticals mounted inboard and it did not fly very well. they also seem to have the canard a bit low relative to the wing. the higher the angle of attack of the canard the more turbulence on the wing. maybe they can use the smoke from their investors vaporized money in the wind tunnel

12" has already been done. there is a cozy IV that has been stretched and is flying . the Berkut is a 12" stretched long eze design. they both use the same wing and canard as the long ez.They both have retracts in the extra 12" space behind the rear seat.

maybe it was tested red line speed but you might want to ask Burt Rutan that question as he is the one that printed it in the long ez owner's manual. in the manual it is listed as redline speed - demonstrated speed 220 MPH. it is also on the cozy IV flight envelope drawings - VNE 220 MPH

220 MPH is the designed red line for the Long ez thats where Nat got that design speed. since it is just a long ez wing with 12" added to the inboard section of each wing and the same canard

there is a cozy IV at chino that has a 220 lbs. 6' 4" pilot. he moved the seat back 1 " and widened the fuselage 3" standard canopy. I am 6" and when I fly the aero canard it does seen to have a bit more head room then the stock cozy IV on the side but the head sets still hit the glass. I think the way to go is widen the fuselage 3-4" and use the aero canard canopy if you want max room. the width will slow down the top speed but still lets you cruse at 170 KTS like most cozy IV's. you will use a bit more RPM to get there.

most builders use the prefabed parts. parts like the metal parts that were built by brock are used by many , some made the own because they do add up in cost. if you have the metal working skills they are simple but do add time. they can be made when it is to cold to do glass work and the work can be started and stopped as life gets in the way unlike glass work. when you start a 8 hour layup you can not stop for 10 hours. the strakes are available pre made and do save a lot of time. landing gear bow, canopy plastic, nose strut cowlings are parts that most will not fab on their own. the prefabed foam is a good deal, not much over the cost of the foam but it only saves about 2 days of work. now if you are talking about having parts made for the plane like wings, molded fuselage, canard, winglets, firewall aft pagkages. they do save a lot of time but now you are talking a lot of money. before I would do that I would find a project that some one else started. those are the best time saved for the buck.

thats the aircrafts designed VNE. the Berkut is all carbon and has a higher VNE there are modified cozy's going faster but may be taking a chance on going over VNE. just adding carbon to the structure might help but a redesign should be done by someone with that kind of knowledge. it will also need a lot more HP.

where did you find those teenagers. teenagers that are going to do as much work on the plane as you are. those are special teenagers and I would keep them. My three boys helped when I needed a hand but 600 hours of work on dads plane, Not, going to happen. they were a bigger help before they became teenagers and now that they are adults they are willing to help again and go flying. pay for fuel and lunch, I'm still waiting.

second that! burning the Q200 would be the safest way for it to get off the ground.

which type and when was it built. many of the early vari's and long's will have a minimum of filler on the surface and the weave will be showing. the reason is that Burt Rutan told the builders not to put on to much filler to keep the weight down but some over did it and the surface is not filled smooth and may look bad.

I have over 400 flying hours on mine. don't use it for landing much but i do use it on every taxi. mine did not have the switches I don't think. if it did i did not use them. I don't believe they are not adjustable. the 4" stroke was a little to much for mine. I used the aircraft water proof sealed switches

The one I used is 75 lbs. by 4" and it weighted 2.5 lbs. if the plans parts weight 1 lbs then the 1.5 lbs. increase is well worth it. the cost is about the same as the stock parts also. install is much less work.http://stores.ebay.com/Wizard-Automotive-Products http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LINEAR-ACTUATOR-2-4-6-8-10-12-STROKE-AVAILABLE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ6763QQihZ003QQitemZ130226004967#ht_2644wt_0

I would use Micro, it is the same weight as the foam. the void can be filled like any other depression in the foam. add the micro just before the layup is done , same time as the foam cells are filled with micro. just keep it off the glass to glass area.

Hydraulic is used so you can use higher pressures. High pressure air pumps use a lot of power. the higher the pressure the smaller the cylinders. it saves weight and space. most of the systems use about 1600 PSI to raise the gear and hold it up and about 750 PSI to lower and lock the gear down. air is used for blow down on some of the systems as a emergency backup. the Eracer/berkut and the velo gear do not use the air. the system is designed to fall down by gravity when the pressure is released from the up or retract cylinders.