JTest

G'day Yeah, you can find several schematics on some of the Ham operators pages. I would use a couple of old marine radios to test. They are cheaper and if you blow them up you only lost about $10 to $20 per unit if you get them on eBay. It should all fit into a Arnetts can. You may even want to build them for $300 and go into business.... Hmmm, no I already have to much on the workbench. Maybe in a year or so.... Good luck and keep us posted. Jeff

G'day I purchased two Weiss scissors. I use one set for cutting glass off the roll before any epoxy is applied and the second set for work after the glass is wet and needs some trimming. I am not sure about the emergecny technician scissors. I know the newbie SAF_Zoom hasn't built any chapter or even purchased the Terf-CD as of a week ago. He posts often, but has questionable experience. Take the advise of several veterans or a newbie with no experience, your choice. I do know that for the 30+ years the Weiss scissors have worked well. At the price of epoxy and glass, I will use the tried and true equipment. Just my humble opinion; yours may differ and we will agree to disagree. Jeff

G'day Steve - I'm not sure about your drawing. Where in chapter 4? I am building from the Open EZ templates and Terf CD and don't remember that back in chapter 4. I have finished 4,5,6,7,8,9,14 and will finish 10 in the next couple of weeks. Please point out where the picture you posted is in the plans. Thanks, because I don't remember it..... Jeff

G'day Do some shopping, I have found it on-line new for under $500. I agree it is expensive for a couple of zener diodes. The zener diode can be used as a switch by using the bias of the diode as a switch. They will block transmission (high power) from the other radio, but will let transmissions out and also let low power (reception) pass. Jeff

G'day Here is the web site for just one Duplexer (splitter) that is available on the market. http://www.comant.com/productdetail.aspx?PID=210 The CI601 Dual communication/single antenna duplexer designed to provide operation between two transceivers and one antenna. In the de-energize mode, the diplexer acts as a 3 dB coupler with the output ports isolated by 20dB. Control voltage actuated by the microphone circuit switches the antenna to transmitter No. 1 or transmitter No. 2. Yes, you can connect two transceivers to one antenna. I recommend if you wish to have a panel mount BNC connection for the handheld you may just wish to run an extra copper dipole antenna on the fuselage (unless the plane is completed already. I hope this helps. Jeff

G'day Drew I would recommend putting a splitter in line with both antennas. and running them to a BNC plug (or two). I have used the whip antenna that comes with an icom handheld for years, but I also have a BNC plug on my panel of my C172 that gives me connection to the external antenna. I find the range is better with the external antenna and in Oz you just may want the extra range. Try the splitter solution is my suggestion and then you can use the handheld to troubleshoot the radios and antennas... Hope this helps. Jeff

G'day Chris Would you be so kind as to tell us the software so we don't buy it? Thank you in advance. Jeff

G'day Chris We all wish you the best with the repair. It was truely sickening to see the problems the Jeffco created. Glad to here the EZpoxy is going to fix the problem. Jeff

G'day Spent the day trimming the canard bottom and getting the top ready for the spar and skin. I have posted a couple of pictures of the canard top waiting the cutouts install and glassing. I hope next weekend to get the spar and skin on the top side of the canard. I welcome comments. Jeff

G'day I am at a loss understanding SAF_Zoom. SAF_Zoom is fairly new (10 days) and has by his own admission had at least one crazy (or more) idea in this forum. Mark Twain said it best; "Action speaks louder than words but not nearly as often." I would hope SAF_Zoom would kindly be less frequent with his postings (over 2.5 per day) and his voice would be louder, but that clearly is not the case. Against better advise (from several builders with experience and pictures to prove it) he continues to start threads that are advanced and require major modifications and money. Small modifications impact every aspect of the build; that is why I abanoned making the fuselage several inches wider (a fairly simple mod, but it impacts almost every future step of the build). I have learned that if I build a second aircraft from the plans all the changes required. Mark Twain (again) "There are basically two types of people. People who accomplish things, and people who claim to have accomplished things. The first group is less crowded." I am building and have completed Chapters 4,5,6,7,8,9 & 14. I am currently working on Chapter 10 & 11. I have purchased an O-320 D3G and have it sitting in the hanger. I have submitted several drawings for full sized parts the Terf-CD does not provide when printed on standard sized paper. Pointed out the lack of a correct size cut-out in Chapter 7 for the Canard cutout due to resizing during printing. My advise to SAF_Zoom is based on my one year of experience building from the Terf-CD and Open EZ templates you seem reluctant to purcahse even though you admit they are "insignificant". In my humble opinion, it will be much cheaper for you to purchase a half completed project. There is one on ebay listed now, but so is the Terf-CD (for under $200 (US)). The modifications will require a set of plans for a baseline to make changes. Against better advise SAF_Zoom continues posting "Crazy" ideas and has only purchased a membership in CSA (A good thing in my opinion). But I continue to be amazed by the number of postings show up in threads for a newbie that clearly hasn't done (and most likely will never do) anything. I welcome productive questions from everybody, but recommend SAF_Zoom continue to find the 20+ builders that he has proposed build his airplane. I for one would gladly vote his postings off the island and put his TIKI tourch out with no immunity. For the members that are building the risk of SAF_Zoom being taken as a legitimate source of anything risks a legitimate builders projects and lives. Mark Twain (yet again) "Better to be silent and thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt." SAF_Zoom continues to remove any doubt. Respectfully submitted; Jeff

G'day I am posting a couple of pictures of the bottom of the canard. I managed to get the nav antenna built and installed (sorry no pictures). I used two strips of copper foil cut 22.8" and then soldered some RG-400 (50 ohm) to the two strips. I installed the antenna on the lower left canard bottom. I used a female BNC (RG-58) connector and installed the connector to provide easy access and connect/disconnect for canard removal/maintenance. I used a crimp lug to connect the RG-400 shield and a large 2" shim washer to mount to the foam. I cut a channel for the cable and I used micro to cover the install. I then covered with Uni and BID per plans. The pictures still have the 4" peel ply on the lower skin. I welcome any constructive comments or questions. Thanks; Jeff

G'day Steve Thanks for the reply, I used 4" Peel Ply on the top (front) and 2" Peel Ply on the sides. I then apply some epoxy to make sure it is wet all over. So I guess yes I do wet the Peel Ply. I have had good success with my method in the past. I removed the Duct tape today and only had to do some light trim with th dremmel. On the positive side the 1/2 inch above the joggle is very clean. It worked well. I also drilled the holes and mounted the tab. I hope to get some more work completed over the next weekend. Jeff

G'day Here is the Shear Web layup on the Canard I completed on Sunday, but didn't get time to post. I marked 1/2" from the "Joggle" and put some Duct Tape to keep the epoxy from getting where it shouldn't. I didn't see this anywhere, but gravity seems to cause my epoxy to flow. I work by myself (most of the time) with limited assistance so I knew I would be busy just putting on the glass... It wasn't until after I finished this layup that I saw some advise to measure and trim all the Uni and Bid for the layup before wetting. I followed the plans, but wish I had trimmed before.... Oh well, live and learn..... If you look in the background you will see the old refrig that I use to keep my epoxy pump and epoxy warm when I am not building. I use a 25 Watt bulb and it keeps the space around 82 F. I tried a 40 W bulb and it was around 100 F. Your milage may be different.... Oh, I drilled the back and put the light in at the bottom in the back and then used insulation foam to seal the drill hole. I put all my chemicals in it and keep them warm. I don't need to run the room heaters during the week when I am in the office and not building. Hope you enjoy. I welcome constructive comments. Jeff

G'day Here are some pictures of the spar that I finished back in Mid-July. It seems I didn't post them due to the hanger move... Sorry they are a little out of sequence. The spar is around 54 lbs. I used the plans layup with the extra glass.... I figured I could lose the extra weight myself and wanted the spar to be as strong as possible..... The SPAM CAN in the background is my 1956 Cessna. If you look behind the Cessna you will see my foam wings. Hope you enjoy. I welcome any comments. Jeff

G'day TMann Thanks, I am sorry for the slow reply. I have been moving hangers and setting up the shop. I missed this post until last weekend, but didn't have time to post and reply. I wanted the pics up for comments, but don't have any (Yet). I lost my tech advisor due to a move. He moved out of town and I moved hangers.... I am now building in a vacuum, the feedback here is about all the outside help I get. If you see anything please post to me. I need the advise more than ever now. Oh. how did your spar turn out? Mine is done and is around 54 lbs. Thanks again. Jeff

G'day Here is the carard set up and tabs microed to the foam. With any luck I will get the shear web layed up this weekend. Here is a pic. I used the Chapter 7 cutouts to put the weights on after cutting the foam for the bolts. Jeff

G'day After three months moving hanger shops, I am building again. Last week I set up the canard and made some parts. I have posted a couple of pictures. Jeff

G'day Looks pretty good. Thanks for the 1/2" pointer. I would have made the same mistake; only mine would have been 2". I will be putting mine together next month. I have spent the last three months moving hangers and setting back-up the shop. My wife and kids got four weeks for a trip to Australia and Fiji. Looks good and thanks again for the pointer. Still looks good. Jeff

G'day TMann I have had several opportunities to travel to places around the world. I find the credit cards only care about keeping the % cut for brokering the deal and the % trimmed on the exchange markets. Many mercants don't like AMX because they take the % and don't pay until after the customer pays AMX. That often can be a 30 - 60 day delay on payment... MC & Visa pay before collections. That is why AMX is not accepted in places that take MC & Visa. I am not sure it is wise to deal with an international funds exchange with a business that can not qualify. Failure to qualify should speak volumes to the customer sending money directly overseas. The problem is a legal issue also, nobody wants to be liable (like PayPal in my case). My seller sent me damaged goods that were misrepresented. PayPal told me to return the product and pay for the shipping. I got to pay international shipping twice and the product once and got none of my money back from PayPal. I again warn people DO NOT use PayPal for international purchases. PayPal is an American Company owned by EBay. Unless you wish to file a claim in California for the loss your money is gone if the seller defaults on the deal (also known as fraud). I hope my position is clear on this issue. Poor merchants are just that! Poor merchants. Jeff

G'day I don't live in Oz now, but I do not recommend PayPal for international purchases. I got ripped off by PayPal a year ago. I was told to send the item back to Australia of all places. Then PayPal didn't refund the money. I paid shipping both ways and didn't get the item or the money. Don't use PayPal for international purchases! Use Visa or MC Just my $365.12 worth.... Jeff

raiki Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Oakey, Queensland Posts: 142 Re: Open-EZ CAD Drawings -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ok, here's something that is missing from the Open-EZ project that has been asked for a lot. I had been working on it for some time but let it lapse. This new topic has renewed my interest so I finished it. Here are the Roncz canard templates. There are some dimensions added to the checking templates and also 1" strikes all around the page. This will verify your printing is correct. It is on one D sized sheet (36"x24"). I may actually include the templates in pages of the plans if we decide 11"x17" is the size the plans will be. Initially I was using A4/Letter so they were easy to print at home. I don't have a title bar like Vortal, but I have a logo. Hope you like. Canard Templates.pdf __________________ Adrian Smart Cozy IV #1453 This is where I got my templates and they checked against origionals. Jeff Roncz Canard.pdf

G'day I know I have seen the Canopy lock drawing someplace but now that it is time to build it I can't seem to find the drawings. Could anybody assist by pointing them out... Thanks in advance! Jeff

G'day Yes it is cool. What kind of key system do you use? If you have any drawings could you post? Thanks Jeff

G'day Thanks for the Quick posting. I will be working on them this weekend. It will be my 49th Birthday gift. I will get to work in the hanger after I take my 3 year old son to Gymnastics and my 7 year old daughter to Soccer. I Palin comparison to hockey moms; I am a soccer dad... Thanks again for the assistance and guidance. Jeff

G'day I am looking for some full size drawings for the CLT and INSERTS. Do you have any you would be so kind to share? Did you make these from sheet 2024-T3 or from stock? If sheet what size did you order? I also see that the Cozy Girrrls have made the CLT from .25 2024-T3 and .125 2024-T3 (per plans). Does anybody know Why? Thanks in advance; I just got back from down under and need to get back into the hanger.... Jeff