gullikson

Thanks Waiter. Kind of what I was thinking too. Best to keep it simple and light.

Looking for suggestions on covering the 2.25" dia holes used to access the wing attach bolts in the centersection spar. I suppose I could just silicone a thin cover over these holes or install a couple of click bond nutplates with a cover. What's been done?

Guys, thanks for the tips. This is my 3rd canard airplane, and 4th homebuilt. Just thought they may have finally figured out how to make the various width tapes with the correct 45 degree fiber orientation to the selvage edge so I wouldn't have to cut the dang things. cheers,

Thanks Steve. I was afraid of that since I have yet to see a selvage edge on any cloth that doesn't run 0 and 90. Can't imagine what those tapes would be useful for being that they are in an Aircraft Spruce catalog. Was hoping there was a way of not having to cut my own tapes (for the 4th time)!

Does anyone know if the Standard E-Glass and Fiberglass tapes available from Aircraft Spruce have the major fiber bundles running at 45 degrees to the selvage edge (can't tell from the picture)? According to the catalog, these are 8.7 oz/sq. yd vs 8.8 for the Rutan BID a seemingly insignificant difference. If these rolls of tapes are 45 degrees to the selvage edge, has anyone used them?

Thank you both very much. I really appreciate the tips. There is just nothing like experience to gain valuable insight into some of this. Although I have worked on two Long's and a MkIV previously, I never made it to the centersection.

I have a question concerning the layup of the interior of the centersection spar. Either the plans are unclear or maybe I'm just not understanding them clearly. Step 4 of chapter 14 has you doing (layup 2), 1 ply BID layup at 45 degree orientation to all three faces, including the end bulkheads (I clearly understand this part). It then goes on to have you do (layup 3) adding 1 ply BID to the interior bulkheads and UND to the hard point areas (I clearly understand this part). The section I find puzzling is (layup 4) where it says: As in the inboard reinforcement (layup 3) layup the 1 ply BID over the bulkhead lapping 5" inboard, then 3 UND plies 4" wide as shown.... It appears that the inboard bulkheads only get 1 ply BID (on each side) total but the outboard bulkheads get 1 ply BID at (layup 2) and another 1 ply BID at (layup 4). Unless I'm seeing this incorrectly it would seem that there may be a planning error and that inboard and outboard bulkheads should both get 1 ply BID total. Any feedback from those that have been there already would really be appreciated. I want to do this layup on Sunday. Thanks, Greg

.....or the whipped cream pages:envy:

Well, I found part of what I was looking for in Cozy plans changes from newsletters #50 and #59. Looks like the shoulder harness spacing s/b 8.50" maximum. Now if someone wouldn't mind sharing with me the method that the MkIV plans show for the wood type and size and layup schedule for the centersection shoulder harness attach points.

Hello all, I am beginning work on the centersection spar for my Long-EZ. I want to change from the plans shoulder harness attach method so that the attach points are closer together. What is the "ideal" spacing for the shoulder harness attach points? I remember reading this in one of the CP's or CSA newsletters but now I'm having trouble locating the info. Also, can anyone tell me what the Cozy Mk IV method is for the attach point in the spar, i.e. spruce dimension and layup dimension and schedule? Thanks, Greg:confused:

Thanks for the quick responses. The argument for the IO-320 is always very strong.

It appears Lycoming is going to be producing an IO-233-LSA engine that weighs 200-210 lbs and produces 100hp-116hp. Even though I am 3-4 years away from needing an engine, it is always helpful to plan ahead. I am all but sold on the idea of an IO-320 but, this new engine is so light that it seems that even with only 116hp it may be a real viable alternative. I would really appreciate any thoughts about this that any of you experienced Long-EZ drivers may care to share.

Thanks Rick, I'll start looking. Much appreciated:thumbsup:

Hi all, Question for anyone that has used the Cozy Girrrls MKNC-12A Torque Tube Offsets in their Roncz canard. I'm getting ready to order my canard hardware and I'd sure like to use the offsets to help control air leakage but I don't have Cozy MkIV plans and I don't really want to guess how to set this up. Can anyone provide me clear instruction on how to use this hardware on my new build Long-EZ Roncz canard?? Thanks!

Material Review Board Quality Analyst for Northrop Grumman. Mostly working F35 now with a little F18, Global Hawk, and B-2 in the mix. Was Master Mechanic, Composite Modification and Repair Mechanic, and Advanced Composite Inspector (all NGC job titles) on the B-2 bomber for close to ten years. Have done very extensive composite repair on the B-2, very handy experience for working on my little Rutan airplane.

Glad to hear the the good news about Eureka cores. I am going to order a set for my Long-EZ in the next couple weeks or so.

I really like the headlight on the Speed Canard. might consider relocating the pitot on my project if I had one of those.

Thanks TMann and argoldman for the excellent and quick responses! Greg:cool:

Hello all, Setting up my shop (garage) for another build. Can someone tell me which Fein blade is the "flush cut". I am going to buy some tools this weekend and the Fein set is one of them. I can't determine which blade is considered the flush cut. Any other recommendation on Fein blades would be appreciated as I haven't used the Fein tool previously. Thanks! Greg

Well, it looks like a few Longs will hatch sometime in the not-too-distant future. I am going to start building my centersection spar jig towards the end of the week. It will be good to have another couple of builders with recent spar time to talk to should there be any questions. Looks pretty straight forward. Any comments on any section of this particular part of the build would be welcome.

Hi Joe, Thanks for the input. I guess my big question is this, if the canopy bubble is near the edge, or flush with the outboard sides of the longerons, what is it that is being done to ensure it remains attached to the canopy frame? With the plans design, the canopy is encased with a fairly sizeable frame outboard of the bubble. Greg

Thanks Blue Max!

Jon, Do you have an estimate when the next update will be out? I'm starting my 3rd EZ and sold my Roncz plans/templates with my last plane. Greg

Hello all, I am starting another Long/Open-EZ project. Can anyone direct me to some plans to do a wide canopy ala Steve Volovsek? I think having more headroom would really suit my GIB, and myself for that matter. Any help with info on this type of installation would sure be appreciated. I know where to get the canopy, just not quite sure how to do the frame/latch, etc. Thanks! Greg

Hello Everyone, I am new to the Canard Zone. I am a Long EZ builder. I really like the nose mounted landing light used on the Speed Canard. I believe Hans Georg Schmid uses this assembly on his Long EZ. I am looking for a source for a Speed Canard landing light assembly. Any help I could get finding a Speed Canard landing light assembly would be very appreciated. Thanks, Greg Gullikson