gullikson

Hello, Sorry if this question has been answered previously. I’m concerned about the installation of the rudder cable bracket assemblies being installed over the fiberfrax and titanium (in my case) firewall sheet. My concern is that over time the fiberfrax will mechanically degrade causing the brackets to be loose/gapped. Any input to my concern would be appreciated. Has anyone installed a shim under the brackets in lieu of the fiberfrax in these areas? Would this pose a safety issue not having the fiberfrax in the footprint of the brackets? Thanks in advance, Greg

You can always try and peel the whole layup off the core. Just re-prep the core and/or patch core as necessary. Make sure everything is dull and do over. This is done on composite military aircraft on occasion (on parts that are about the same size as your bulkhead) and should work okay. You can grab the corner of the layup with vise grips. If you ruin the part then just start over. If the core is salvageable, you are good to go.

Thanks Lynn.

I'm planning on purchasing one of Jack Wilhelmson's EZ-Noselifts for my Long-EZ project. Looking for input, opinions, advice, on whether to buy the NL1-12, which has manual emergency extension, or the NL1-12E with electrical emergency extension with backup battery. Jack says the system weight is about the same for both. I like the idea of manual backup but with no experience with either system, advice from anyone with some experience that they wouldn't mind sharing would be great. Thanks, Greg

I have always understood that the scavenging effect from a header system relies on the collector used. I'm certainly in no position to speak on the four-into-one setups for the EZ's but.... the collector is certainly a short one and it almost looks like it would have a negligible effect compared to an automotive system with a much longer collector.

Wayne, found your old post about bending the 1/8 4130 to make your four "extrusions". Cheers.

Well, I can see now why Dick machined his 4130 1x1 angles for the engine mount extrusions... I am unable to find 4130 angle anywhere, only A36. Wayne, did you find 4130 1 x 1 x 1/8 material in AU?

Thanks Dick. This is a bit off the extrusion point but.... Did you extend the third OML ply of UNI on your fuselage full length in anticipation of the O-320 or are your fuselage layups pretty much per dwg? Same question for the 3" wide UNI layup at top of fuselage that stiffens the upper longerons? Greg

Hi Dick an Wayne, Did you make the 1.6" L extrusions and the 1.6" x 2" plates that mate to the upper engine mount extrusions out of 4130 as well? Thanks, Greg Gullikson

Ran into this website today. A promising looking engine that is 25% the size, 30% lighter and 50% better fuel economy compared with a state-of-the-art, conventional turbo-diesel engine. Check it out. www.ecomotors.com

Thanks Rick. I sent a paypal payment over a week ago and Vance did not accept the payment. Also, the email address does not appear to be active. I will try sending a check to the address on the website. Thanks again.

Does anyone know if Vance Atkinson is still selling fuel gauges? If so, please provide contact information. I have been unsuccessful in contacting him. Thanks, Greg

Joe, I have already purchased Eureka cores with a straight, no kink, trailing edge. I believe that they will have the same WL rise from BL 55.5 to the inbd end. Thanks, Greg

Getting ready to start the wings on my Long-EZ. I have seen many older posts in various places over the years where people are using an aluminum angle, I-Beam, or rectangular tubing to get their trailing edges flat and straight. I have looked at the jigs, templates, and plans and it would appear that the Long-EZ wing trailing edge goes from WL 17.5 at BL 23 to WL 16.95 at BL 55.5 and then back up to WL 18.35 at BL 157. I can't see how you could use one aluminum angle on the trailing edge since it appears that trailing edge is not straight from the fuselage to the wing tip. I sure would appreciate feedback on this. Thanks in advance.

TMann, Do you have original, uncut templates? I'm certainly no authority on paper shrinkage or distortion as it ages, hence part of my problem. I haven't spent the time to go through all of the archives to see what the source for the Open-EZ templates are. I guess one of the best measurements to see if I am in the ballpark with either set of templates that I do have would be to get a diagonal (sort of) measurement from the middle of the lines (black drawing lines) at the leading edge at W.L. 17.4 to the trailing edge at W.L 17.4. Since your templates are not cut it would not really be practical to get these from you. I may be making a bigger deal out of this than I need to since all of the trailing edges will be 4" off the floor with the T.E., shear web, and L.E. all strung in straight. It's just that it's a lot of work to make these wood templates very acurate, leveled, etc., only to find out they were made to the wrong size. Can anyone provide the dimensions noted above for the four outboard templates??

TMann, My only airfoil/hotwire templates are Open-EZ. It's a long unfortunate story about my original templates, and I won't bore anyone with it. I bought my cores from Eureka, so I didn't actually make hotwire templates. Maybe I haven't read enough about this, or am reading too much into it but, the wing jigs must have enough tolerance in them to accomodate the lower skin after the shear web is layed up. I'll check some more tomorrow for all of the templates that mistatch. Thanks for the reply.

Hello all, First, let me apologize right off if this has been covered before and is in archive material. I am getting ready to build the wings for my Long-EZ. I bought my plans back in 1983 and my original wing template pages were destroyed by water some time back. Before the were ruined though, I made very acurate copies on rather thin "onion" paper. I have had these copies rolled up for almost 26 years now and have no way to really verify if they have grown, shrunk, or otherwise distorted. Let me get to the point. I went to Kinko's today and printed a full set of the Open-EZ templates. Most of the corner marks on the Open-EZ templates were nearly dead on. One page was off by less than .100" in the long direction. I assembled my "original" copies and the Open-EZ copies. When comparing the two sets, some were close and some were off. Both jig #5's matched up, my "original" jig #3 is at least 1/4" longer than the Open-EZ Kinkos copy. Does anyone have an original, know to be accurate, set of wing jig templates that could help me determine which set of my templates, if either, is correct? Suggestions welcome and appreciated. Thanks in advance.

We use Hysol EA 9396, EA 9321, and other, depending on application, for secondary bonding on two fighter programs I work on. I would go to the Henkel website and check out the various spec sheets for the different types. I am going to be using some Hysol in place of flox in a couple of applications on my Long-EZ project. I will be talking to two M&P engineers Monday regarding this topic. PM me Monday afternoon and I'll share my info.

You may note that in the Rutan Long-EZ roll over plans it states: "I used Hysol 9317 structural adhesive to bond my roll over into the canopy frame. It is expensive but it is incredibly strong, (and messy!). Since there is no way to back up a flox or micro bond with fasteners, we believe that this important a structural bond needs the strength of a structural adhesive such as Hysol 9317."

Definately plan on building my own cowls. It is actually the part of the build I'm looking forward to the most.

Hi Chrissi,Exactly as ordered!

Just got my Long-EZ wing cores from Eureka with the entire trailing edge straight rather than the dog leg the plans trailing edge takes from BL 55.5 to BL 23.

Thanks all for the replies to my quandry. It is very clear now. I don't know what, or why, I was thinkin' what I was. Cheers, Greg

Thanks Marc, of course they come off with the peel ply. This is one of those infrequent(thankfully) situations where I knew exactly how the sequencing worked but for some reason I had the notion that the brads/tacks went through the lower skin, even though I looked at the drawings showing it otherwise, over and over. Boy, it hurts overlooking the plainly obvious! Thanks again, Greg

The part of the plans for the wings and canard that is making me scratch my head is where you are putting the trailing edge peel ply on and holding it in place with small brads, tacks, or staples prior to glassing the lower skin. Maybe it's self-evident when you get to the point were you are cutting the fish tail off the upper surface but.... what do you do with the brads, tacks, or nails.... dig them out of the lower skin, shave the pin portion off flush with the fiberglass ply or what? What have you canard and wing veterans done about this? I'm prepping for wings and canards and this has got me wondering.