Waiter

These look very good, it appears that the bolts go into the wooden hardpoints' NOW, Look at the aileron bellcrank on the firewall; From looking at the position, I think your belcrank is going to hit you engine mount. Take a look at this, you may need to move the aileron to the left a 1/2 inch or so. Waiter

Maybe check with Art, I don't know if he does them?? Waiter

FOUND IT!! Art Bianconi has these. Check out his web site: http://www.vortexgenerator.net/EngineMount.html Please post the photos of the inside of these mounts, this is very important that they be installed correctly. Waiter

If these are the square tube aftermarket ones that were sold by ???, then these are much better than the original angle aluminum extrusions. and will support a 320 or 360 with no problem. I can't remember where I seen these square extrusions, but it was on a web site not to long ago. Double check how the squares are mounted to the fuselage and the centerspar box. There are wooden hardpoints embedded in the centerspar box. the bolts for the engine mount must go through these and NOT the actual spar caps. ALSO, After looking at your photo, I'm not sure you have enough clearance between the lower right mount and your aileron bellcrank. Waiter

I think the VariEZ uses two taper pins that are accessed from the top of the wing. The LongEZ uses three bolts. Everything else applies. Waiter

You know what, I assume this is for a LOngEZ. If this is a VariEZ, The Canard should be the same, but the wing will be different. Sorry about that. Waiter

DISCUSSION: Canard Removal There could be many variations depending on how it was built, but basically, its like this 1) Reach through the right leg hole. Disconnect the control push tube on the right side, there should be a quick disconnect. reassemble the hardware so you don't loose it. 2) Reach through the left leg hole, Disconnect the two trim springs on the left side. This could vary greatly depending how and what types of trim system springs are used. On My LongEZ: I have the "compression type springs and they are connected directly to the elevator trim bellhorn on the canard. If I compress the spring and squeeze the hooks on one end, I can get the hooks to pull up through the inside of the spring. Do the bottom spring first. Get a helper to lift the elevator, this removes all the tension from the bottom spring and makes it easier to get out. 3) From the nose compartment, reach up inside and remove the two bolts that secure the canard. If you look at my web site, www.iflyez.com, look under JUL/AUG 2005., there are a couple photos that will give you an idea were these bolts are located. Look at 10 JUL 2005, the lower right photo. You can see a the holes on both sides of the bulkhead. The Canard tabs will hang down in front of this bulkhead and one bolt on each side will secure it to this bulkhead. There should NOT be any washers between the tabs and the bulkhead, Although most EZs were built with nut plates on the back, I have used regular self locking nuts and large area washers on the back of these bolts. (These are AN4 bolts) When all the hardware is removed and the controls are disconnected; You can do this by yourself; In the following step, you will lift the leading edge and pull the canard forward. The back of the canard is held in place by two guide pins that insert into the canard. Often, these pins may get stuck in the canard. Not a big deal, simply pull them out of the canard and push them back into the fuselage with a tiny dab of epoxy. If the canard wont pop loose, goto the tip of the canard on rock it FORWARD/BACK about 1 inch, this should pop everything loose. Facing the rear of the plane, Straddle the nose in front of the canard. With one hand gently raise the elevators, do NOT lift the canard, only the elevators. (this makes it so all the control bellhorn and counterweights don't get caught on anything when you slide the canard out ) With the other hand lift the leading edge of the canard about 1/2 inch. Pull the canard forward as you lift the front of the canard slightly. When the canard is released from the pins, it can be picked up and moved. Good Luck Waiter

DISCUSSION: removing a wing Irreparable damage can be done to the wings and center spar if the wing is allowed to twist or suspend from the three attach bolts. You need three helpers: The helper at the wing tip; His job is to Keep the wing lined up straight, i.e. up/down and FARWARD/BACK at the wing tip. Will need to rock up and down slightly when it comes time to remove the wing. The helper at the leading edge, positioned at the wing/strake junction. His job is to Keep the wing straight, i.e. the wing leading edge up/down. keep lined up with the strake. Use your hand/fingers to hold the wings leading edge against the strakes leading edge. 1) with the helpers in position. 2) remove cowling 3) Disconnect the rudder cable. If the disconnect has multiple holes (for adjustment) make a note which hole the cable is in. With the thimble removed, reassemble all the hardware on the cable so it won't get lost. 4) Disconnect the aileron push rod, The push rod runs along the back of the Centerspar, between the wing and the fuselage control bellhorn., it may have a disconnect junction in it, if not, try removing at the attach point where the control tube from the bellhorn where it comes through the fire wall. 5) Using two 3/4 inch socket wrenches Remove the nuts from the three attach bolts. This is a very critical stage when the wing is vulnerable to damage; The helper at the wing tip needs to hold the wing tip steady, both UP/DOWN and FORWARD/ BACKWARD. The helper at the leading edge needs to hold the wing leading edge even and lined up with the strake leading edge. There are Three bolts that holt the wing. The inboard bolt can be accessed from inside the back seat by reaching into the centerspar (need skinny arms). A helper will need to take the nut off from the outside. The two outboard bolts can be reached through an access hole in the bottom of the strake, The nuts can be reached through access holes from above and below Once the nuts are removed, do the following 6) If the helpers rock slightly, i.e. 1 or 2 inches up/down AND forward/backward at the wing tip, and 1 inch up/down at the leading edge, the wing will slide straight back. IMPORTANT: When the wing has slid back a inch or two, everybody stop and hold perfectly still. Using a flashlight, reach up between the wing and the center spar with a scribe, thin ruller, or anything to seperate the shim washers., Count the number of shim washers on each bolt, ALSO make a note if they are thick or thin washers. Draw a diagram that shows the location of these washers, these need to be put back exactly in the correct locations when reassemble. Verify that the aileron control tube is clear. 7) With a third helper at the trailing edge, continue to pull the wing back, you may need to continue with the gentle rocking. (The helper at the wing strake needs to give direction to the wing tip helper for wing tip FORWARD/BACKWARD movement.) 8) When the wing is clear of the bolts, STOP. Go to the Wing/Strake junction and disconnect any wires, Antenna, strobe, etc. Reverify that the aileron tube, rudder cable, and everything else is clear 9) Set the wing on the ground, Locate all the shim washers. do a count and make sure they are accounted for. account for all bolts and nuts before relocating the wing. Reassemble in reverse order. Good Luck Waiter

Yes Waiter

I think the O-360 is only about 50 lbs heavier than the O-320, Personally, I would have no problems replacing my O-320 with an O-360. My plane was built for an O-320 and all the "beefing up" was performed during original construction. 1) I installed larger fuselage longerons ( 1/4 inch larger than plans, bothe upper and lower) 2) I installed larger mount extrusions. I don't remember the exact sixes, but I made mine larger. I think the originals were 3/4 x 3/4inch, If so, I installed 1 x 1-1/2 on all four locations. 3) I added several extra layers of glass at all the extrusion locations, I'd need to look at my notes to tell you the exact number and orientation. 4) My engine mount is a WeldTech that was specifically designed and built for an O-320 (not a modified O-235 mount) I liked this mount because it allowed me to use Bendix mags, The original Brock mount could only use Slicks. 5) I did NOT upgrade my brakes (I wish I would have, regardless of O-235 or O-320) 6) I didn't do anything additional to the gear or its attach points, these seem OK after 2600 hours. I would be concerned about going from a O-235 to an O-320 or O-360. I would definitely do items 2 & 4 above, and if possible, Item 3. Waiter

What you describe is generally how TurboProps operate. Basically, you change the prop pitch (power), and the fuel controller changes the fuel flow (throttle) in an attempt to maintain a certain engine rpm. This type of control scheme would certainly work with piston engines, but I don't think I ever heard of this type of control scheme implemented in a piston engine. As far as Piston engines; To make sure we are not confusing terms; CS - Constant speed - The propeller controller automatically changes prop pitch in an attempt to maintain a preset "RPM", Regardless of throttle settings, climb, dive, altitude, or airspeed. This is the mode that is found on the vast majority of aircraft. (This is like an Automatic transmission in a car) Variable Pitch - The operator can alter the propeller pitch at any time, This is strictly a manual operation, Any change to throttle settings, climb, descent, or speed, will alter the corresponding engine RPM. The operator Must ensure the engine rpm stays withing its operational and design limits. (This is like a manual transmission in a car; yes Bunky, you can put it in first gear while going down the road at 80mph) Although my MT can do either (variable pitch or constant speed) I almost always leave it in the CS mode. Normally, I select 2700 rpm for takeoffs and landings. I select 2500 rpm for climb, 2300 for cruise, and occasionally, 1900 rpm for economy cruise. The throttle can be moved freely and the rpm stays the same. The only time that use the Variable Pitch mode is when I am on a Long cross country. I generally climb to my cruising altitude, i.e. 17,500 ft. When the speed is stabilized, I select Variable pitch. I do this so that any minor changes in speed or inadvertent climb or descent, I immediately fell/hear the propellor speed changing. Waiter

I'm not sure "safer" would be the correct term. A constant speed prop can provide a much wider range of runway conditions that would be acceptable for takeoffs and landings; i.e. shorter runways, greater crosswind angles and speeds, heavier gross weights, etc. However, If you operate your aircraft within its design envelope, then there really is no "safer" prop. Actually, from a strictly MTBF analysis, would say that a CS is less safe, as it has more parts that could fail during a critical takeoff or landing. I'm not sure if a CS prop vs a fixed prop would have any impact on carb ice or engine stalling. Carb ice is a factor of OAT, Relative humidity, and throttle position (manifold pressure) I don't see how a CS prop would reduce these factors. As for engine stalling, the CS prop would probably delay this, but I don't think this is a significant factor. If the idle speed is set to low, the engine will stall regardless of fixed of constant speed. Fix the problem by adjusting idle speed. Waiter

There are three main factors to consider in the "fixed" vs "constant speed" debate; 1) I would say the main reason is cost; a top quality fixed prop will cost about $2,000, an MT variable pitch/constant speed will cost about $10,000. 2) Performance. If you are interested in only one area of the flight envelope, i.e. speed, and are willing to sacrifice performance in all other corners of the envelope, then a fixed pitch will normally outperform a constant speed. On the other hand, a constant speed offers very good performance in all corners of the envelope. 3) Weight, A constant speed prop and its pumps, motors, control system, etc, will be much heavier than a fixed pitch. A good quality fixed prop will weigh approx 20 lbs. My MT electric weights in at 45 lbs. I've been flying with an MT prop on my LongEZ for over 1600 hours, I like the takeoff and landing performance, and I love the ability to cruise at 165KIAS while the prop is turning 2300 rpm. I used to run 175KIAS with a Great American turning 2900. I sacrificed a little top end speed (about 5 kts) for this performance. Lower rpms means less fuel burn, less engine wear, and considerably less noise. Waiter

Although the aircraft may have been designed with the higher Vne in mind, I would NEVER placard any aircraft for a "design" Vne unless it has been flight tested. I test fly the aircraft to a speed of 10% over the recommended Vne. As mentioned by rpellicciotti, I do this in 5 knot increments starting at about 130KIAS. When each test speed is reached, sudden control inputs (jabs) are input to see if "flutter" can be introduced. Each test speed is completed with a sustained 2 G turn in both directions while holding the test speed. My LongEZ is placarded for 230KIAS Vne, I have personally tested it to 260KIAS. Flight testing any aircraft can be FUN, and is a great tool for the pilot to build up confidence in the design AND the manufacture of the aircraft. The flight test program must be well thought out and have a written plan. No plan, no flight test. I've discovered that it takes me just about 40 hours to perform a complete test program on most home built aircraft of medium complexity. The FAA publishes an Advisary Circular on flight testing, there are also numerous books on performing flight testing (home builts). I believe most competitent GA pilots are capable of performing a complete test program. And of course, ALWAYS wear a parachute when performing this particular test sequence. Waiter

I think the 3000 hours is realistic for a 1st time builder. The problem is, where can you find this number of hours in your life. I believe the single most benificial item was that I was building my project in my garage. I didn't need to drive somewhere else to work on the project. Waiter

I logged over 3000 hours building my Long. Start to finish took about 9 years. Actual build took just under 3 years. I was living in Japan for several years and wasn't able to take my project with me. Plus my job occasionally kept me away from home for 6 to 9 months at a time. Waiter

I believe the "Speed Canard" was made in Germany. This is a production that looks like a rounded body LongEZ Waiter

I have a set of LongEZ plans that my wife found at a Garage sale back in the early 90's. I always questioned if they were original or a copy, as the front cover is a different color then mine, (Light Tan or Almond color). Other than the color of the cover, they are identical to my Blue covered plans that I bought from Rutan back in the 80's just before they shut down. They have the template sheets, but I need to look again and verify that all the templates are there. (wings, rudders, canard, instrument panel, nose gear drawings, etc.) Evidently, My wife wasn't aware that there were two books, Section I and Section II, She didn't remember seeing the small Section II booklet. This isn't a big deal, as Section II is only a few pages compared to Section I. I have my original Section II from my plans. Section II covers the engine / firewall installation. Although Section II is good to have for reference, I would venture to say that most of the information in Section II has been superseded by most builders since the early 90's. i.e. brake cylinders are no longer on the firewall, the air intake and filter system is no longer mounted on the firewall, etc. A copy of Tony Bigilias (spelling) "Firewall Forward" has more information than Section II. There were two versions of the Section II, One for an O-200 and the other for an O-235. Personally, I believe the O-320 is the engine of choice for the LongEz and would never even consider the original choices. (O-320 are cheaper and more abundant than the other choices anyway) Anyway, these are the plans only, you still need to come up with the CP's and go through the plans and add in the corrections and changes from the CP's. The only reason I never put these on the market before, is. I didn't feel comfortable selling them to someone knowing that they may not be complete. So, the solution to this is as follows: When you get these plans, You need to find a copy of the CPs and go through and Update the plans. This is mandatory. You should also order the High Performance rudder plans, the Rontcz (spelling) canard plans, and the hidden bellhorn plans from Rutan. I'll sell them only if I can determine that they are original, and the templates are complete. Otherwise I will not sell them. Waiter

Shotgun06, Contact me off line. at waiter AT iflyez DOT com Waiter

If your Carb has an accelerator pump (most do) then there is no need for this. Prior to starting the (cold) engine, turn on the boost pump to make sure there is fuel in the carb bowl, then cycle the throttle 4 - 5 times from stop to full. The Accelerator pump in the Carb will supply a "squirt" of raw fuel every time the throttle is moved toward the full position. As for the other questions, My fuel line enters the firewall and goes directly to the gascolator. My fuel flow transmitter is mounted in the Hell hole just forward of the firewall. Waiter

Well, yes and No; Rather than add balast, I moved my battery forward approximately 12 inches from the original plans location. In order to do this, I had to extend the nose (I don't like the looks of the original nose anyway). You could add ballast and leave the original nose. I'v discovered that the GIB is so close to the CG that the GIBs weight has no impact on CG. HOWEVER, The pilots weight has a significant impact on CG. If the W&B is set up for a heavy pilot (i.e. 250lbs) and then a light pilot flys the plane (i.e. 175 lbs) this could easily push the CG well past the aft limit. Be very carefull Waiter

Unless you already possess the skills needed to perform this task (working with composite materials), I would highly recommend following the basic sequence of the original plans. The construction sequence is laid out so you build non critical components first. This allows you to practice and acquire skills that will be needed later for the more critical parts. One of the skills that I learned is, "What is acceptable, and what is not". A bulkhead that is later rejected because its to dry or to heavy is considerably less expensive that a wing that is rejected for the same reasons. Also, the hot wiring skill that is learned when building the canard, will pay dividents when performing this same task on the much larger (and more expensive) wing components. Good luck, and by all means, enjoy the build. Waiter

I perform several cross countries every year (Coast to Coast). Generally, these are non stop when flying west to east, but I usually make one fuel stop when westbound. Eastbound trips are almost always done GPS Direct, at FL210 - FL230. Check Tail winds and pick the best altitude. File VFR Flight following with a cruise altitude of 17,5. After you achieve your cruising altitude and everything is stable, refile for FL210. I won't fly in instrument conditions at these altitudes, Its to easy to pick up ice. TIPS: Auto Pilot is a must. Good Cabin heat system. An exhaust heat muff won't cut it. Relief tube system Things to keep you occupied, I usually take magazines, news papers, etc. I'll be installing a DVD player in the instrument panel, so this should help on future trips. I would not consider an ocean crossing in a single engine aircraft unless it was a very special occation i.e. one way, delivering a purchased aircraft. Generally, any mechanical problem will result in total loose of the aircraft, and place the pilot in grave danger. In simple terms, To me, the return is not worth the investment. ALSO: at $4.00 per gallon, round trip airfare is almost always cheaper than IFLYEZ airlines. Waiter

The line art looks good, HOWEVER, before you commit to foam and glass, double check the geometry when the plane is parked on its nose. It appears that it will park right on the nose tip. Waiter

When carving the nose, remember that the plane is parked on its nose. I went through this when I carved mine back in the late 80's Waiter