Waiter

One of the issues I had with sender units is where to mount them. As part of my retrofit, I was going to install capacitive fuel senders and have a display, like your planning. I don't like the idea of putting them in the passenger compartment, as this exposes them to the passenger in an already tight area (this is probably the easiest location to install them, BUT ). My next choice, and this is were I was going to install them, was high on the back bulkhead (not the outboard bulkhead) that separates the fuel tank from the strake baggage area. The capacitive probe would then be oriented so it points toward the back of the plane, and bent down so the tip of the sensor in very close proximity to the fuel screen just above the sump hole. My plan was as follows; 1) Use a 3 inch hole saw (looks like a round saw blade with a drill bit in the middle) Drill through both the outer glass skin, and inner glass skin (into the tank) BUT only saw through the outer glass skin , NOT the glass on the inside of the tank. 2) Clean the foam from this three inch hole. 3) Using a dremel and brush or wheel, carefully sand the inside surface of the inner glass skin for a good glass to glass bond. 4) On the outer skin, Clean the foam from under the outer skin to about a 1/4 depth, This is going to be a FLOX corner, the underside of the outer skin needs to be sanded, or dremeled so as to get a good glass bond. 5) ACS or Wicks sells a bulkhead plate for mounting a fuel sensor. Theirs is made of aluminum. (I used these for my fuel probe installation) If possible, I would make my own and do it out of steel DO NOT THREAD THE HOLES YET, you need a pilot hole only. Scratch the plate on both side so as to get a good epoxy bond. NOTE - the fuel sender hole pattern is NOT symmetrical, I temporally mounted the plate to the probe, then marked the "top" and "Points toward sender" on the plate so I would get it oriented correctly. 6) Test fit the mounting plate inside the 3 inch diameter cavity that you created. The center of the mounting plate should center up wit the drill hole that goes through the inner skin 7) When ready mix up a batch of flox. Flox the entire inside of the 3 inch hole, the exposed glass of the inner skin, the foam side walls of the cavity, and make sure the 1/4 corner for the outer skin is completely full of flox. 8) Coat both side of the mounting plate with flox, then gently press it up against the inner skin. 9) Lay up 4 or 5 layers of BID all the way around the inside of the cavity, covering the plate and up the sides of the foam walls, onto the flox corner of the outer skin. 10) Monitor the layups, when able. knife trim even with the outer skin. 11) Use a vacuum with a small diameter aluminum tube taped to it, bend the tube so you can put the end up near the sensor plate by reaching in through the fuel filler neck. The vacuum will now catch most of the residue from the following steps. 12) Drill the mounting holes up to their proper size and thread them. 13) Drill the center hole up to its proper size. 14) Test fit the sensor in the mounting plate. 15) Wire and test the sensor in a small container of gas, If everything looks good, then put a small amount of "Permatex Right Stuff" on the face of the sensor, and permanently install it in the mount. 16) Fabricate a cover out of 4 or five layer of BID. When cured, use a small dab of "Right Stuff" to glue the cover over the sensor. OK, WITH ALL THAT SAID. I mounted my sensors up inside the wheel wells of my retractable landing gear. I used the exact same procedures as I described above.Look at 13 MARCH in the following link; http://www.iflyez.com/LongEZ_Retrofit_MAR_05.shtml Here are a couple links to look at; http://www.centroidproducts.com/ and http://www.mpsadventurer.com/f-30_fuel.htm If your interested in the CRuz fuel guage, I have a brand new one I bought but won't use. My sensors are going to a Dynon EMS 10 instead. Good Luck Waiter

I posted my CG spreadsheet on my web site. Take a look at: http://www.iflyez.com/LongEZ_Weight_and_Balance.shtml I hope this helps:) Waiter

My Lycoming has a conical mount so it was EZ. This same thing may work with a Dynafocal??? Look at http://www.iflyez.com/LongEZ%20Construction%20Photos%204.shtml These are engine photos during my construction, you can clearly see the O-320 sitting on a standard automotive engine stand. I used regular water pipes, 8 inches long, 3/8 threaded rod, and large area washers. Waiter

CORRECTIONS: Per the LongEZ POH: Normal limits = FS97 to FS103 (Originally FS104, but Rutan moved it forward to FS103) First Flight = FS99 to FS101.5 APPROX Engine CG = FS140 (use the engine Oil FS number) Original Battery = FS19 Waiter

Send me an e-mail: waiter (AT) iflyez (DOT) com and I'll hook you up with some W&B stuff As for the Cozy, I don't know. I don't recall anything unusual about the W&B calculations, so either they are very close to or exactly the same as a LongEZ. I've performed several First Flights on Cozy's, and I always review the W&B with the builder and/or the person that performed the W&B. (to make sure they know what they're doing) Take a look at the stuff I send you, If your not comfortable with it, or just can't seem to catch on, This would be a good opportunity to sit down with a someone who has gone through it, or even spend an hour with a CFI doing W&B stuff. Waiter

I think we are talking about two different things (CG and W&B) Unless you change the relationship between the canard and the wing, the plans CG envelop will remain the same, i.e. you need to operate the plane between these numbers: If you ARE changing the relationship, then you are way out of my league, and I would have thought that you should already know the answers to the questions your asking. (OK HERE GOES THE BAD MEMORY THING AGAIN!, I'll post the correct numbers after I look at the book:irked: ) FS#98 to FS#103.5 (First flight - FS#98 to FS#102.5) There are people with a lot more knowledge on this subject then I. So, the simple answer for folks like me is, as long as I don't mess with the "relationship" between the wing and canard, the plans CG envelope will apply. I'm going to determine if my plane falls within the envelope by performing a W&B. NOW, I think your questions is; "What impact will my modifications have on the Weight and Balance? Every EZ is different, so its a little bit of guess and a lot of science. I would start by building a W&B worksheet in an Excel spreadsheet. ( Remember I said in an earlier post that you need to be familiar with how the W&B is performed.) Start by using the original weights and FS# locations that are in the flight manual, and see how things look. Now modify the weight numbers for a heavy engine (50 - 75 lbs heavier than an O-235), a 30 lb prop with a 8 inch extension instead of a 4 inch extension. Change the battery from the plans location to about 18 inches forward. Change the pilot weight from 180 to 270. As you modify the weights and FS#, you'll see how these new weights and FS#s effect the W&B. The goal would be to come up with a plane that puts your W&B in the center of the flight envelop (approx FS#101) I have three thoughts on this: 1) If your planning on installing an O-360 (about 75 lbs heavier than an O-235), AND your about 100 lbs heavier than plans. These two are just about going to cancel each other out. I would guess that you may not need to move the battery forward to compensate for the heavy engine. 2) HOWEVER - If I were building this plane, I would build two battery compartments, one at the plans location, and one approximately 18 inches forward of the plans location. If you ever decide to sell this plane, (or later need to move the CG forward) then the battery can simply be moved to the forward compartment. 3) Placard this plane for pilot weight. I guarentee if the W&B is correct for your weight, it will be way aft of the CG limit if a 180 lb pilot jumps in. This will be fatal. NOTE: Your spreadsheet may not call out specifically the weight and FS# of specific components i.e. engine, battery. In this case, you will need to do a good educated guess as to weight and FS#. Do a little research and your weight and FS# numbers should be fairly close. EXAMPLE 1 - The center of gravity of the engine is approximately (MEMORY GUESS) at FS# 150, so if your installing an engine thats 75 lbs heavier than the plans, add 75lbs at FS#150 EXAMPLE 2 - The plans battery is about 20lbs at FS14. If you move the battery forward by 18 inches, and install a 28 lb battery, you would need to make two corrections to your W&B. Enter a (minus)20 at FS#14 (to remove the old battery) and add a 28 at FS#(minus)4 (The new battery weight and location) REMEMBER, ALL FS#s are based on the instrument panel being at FS#40. You will find a sample W&B with FS#s and sample weights in the Pilot Operating Handbook. DO YOU HAVE ONE????? Waiter

OK, Heres the latest: http://www.iflyez.com/LongEZ_Cursor.shtml I think these cover all the main cursors. Waiter

TO LATE: I just uploaded a "Dutchrolling" cursor that can be used for the Wait, Busy, or Progress cursors. It a LongEZ thats doing a Dutchroll. http://www.iflyez.com/LongEZ_Cursor.shtml Waiter

I cleaned up the art work on the two cursors to make them look better. The files are also significantly smaller so they load and respond faster. If you want the updated cursors, Redownload and reinstall the files as described on the web site: http://www.iflyez.com/LongEZ_Cursor.shtml ALSO, As time permits, I'll add a couple more EZ cursors, i.e. the WAIT cursor (the one with the hourglass) Waiter

I've been getting many e-mails from visitors to my web site. They want to know if they can use my LongEZ mouse cursor on their home computer. The answer is YES! :) I've posted instructions and download links for the cursors at: http://www.iflyez.com/LongEZ_Cursor.shtml Fly it carefully, and don't get caught making engine noises! Waiter

The instrument panel is at Fuselage Station 40. This is correct. All FS measurements use this as the reference. (LongEZ) Waiter

You will need to study up on aircraft Center of gravity, weight and balance, and how this is calculated. This is basic Pilot stuff. If you have an Operating handbook for the LongEZ, its very well documented in there. If you don't have a copy, send me an e-mail. You must have a complete understanding of this concept n order to understand the importance of the numbers and their relationship to each other. If you don't change the mounting position (FS#) or size of the canard, AND, you don't change the mounting position (FS#) of the CenterSpar and wings, then the published CG numbers should remain the same. The CG envelope is the Center of Gravity that the canard and wing (and their relationship to each other) are designed to operate at. When your finished, you want the aircrafts actual W&B to fall within the LongEZs CG envelope. Generally, most of the modifications you see have little or no effect on published CG. A W&B within the CG envelope can be accomplished with careful planning and building, even if you make many of these modification. For instance, Most LongEZs will tend to be aft CG and will require some ballast (MAYBE). If you know this from the start, you can easily build so that your plane won't be aft CG and won't need any ballast. I have a 45 lb MT prop on a 6 inch extension. I still don't need ballast to stay in the envelope. IM DOING THE INSTRUMENT PANEL FS FROM MEMORY, IT IS WRONG, WHEN I GET THE CORRECT NUMBER I WILL EDIT THIS POST FS or Fuselage station is the location in inches from a certain point on the plane. In the case of the LongEZ The reference (datum) is the instrument panel. The Instrument panel located at FS40. This is the reference datum. All measurements for the canard, wing, landing gear, canopy, firewall, etc etc etc are measured reference to this number. On an idea LongEZ, the nose would be FS-0, But keep in mind, the nose changes from plane to plane, so Rutan decided to call the Instrument panel the Datum. (Most Certified aircraft make the very first bulkhead the reference datum, i.e. the pressure bulkhead behind the radome (big jets), or the firewall (Spam cans). If you go in front of the instrument panel, the number subtracts from the datum, IN FACT, if you measured my airplane, the nose of the plane is located at FS-Negative-14, i.e its located 54 inches in front of the instrument panel. IMPORTANT: If for some reason you move the instrument panel, make sure you correct for this when you do you weight and balance measurements. The Bottom line, IMHO: Unless your an Aeronautical engineer and know how to calculate this kind of stuff, The Canard and Wing must be located exactly as per plans. This is one set of parameters that must not be messed with. When your finished, you will perform a flow blown Weight and Balance. The aircraft will be accurately weighed and measured. You'll then determine / adjust your W&B so it falls within the "First Flight" box of the CG envelope. Waiter

The more the tub being complete, the more work it would be. i.e. Without seeing photos, I would assume (ASS-U-ME) that its a basic tub with F22 bulkhead, instrument panel, front seat bulkhead, rear seat bulkhead, and maybe firewall. Its almost awash - start from scratch versus widen existing fuselage. The bulkheads are structural. I would be concerned about "splices" in them. so I would remake these. (F22 and doubler, F28 and instrument panel, Front set, rear seat, ) The firewall and instrument panels them selves could be spliced, but they are fairly easy to make, so I would remake them. The fuselage itself could be spliced, use the same type of foam, and follow the plans layup schedule. I would do something like this; I would make it 2 or 3 inches wider at F22, 4 inches wider at the front seat bulkhead, and 3 inches wider at the firewall. This would widen both the front and rear seats by 4 and 3 inches respectively. NOTE: when you widen the fuselage (existing or new) you will need to be very careful about doing the math and redesign of several key components. here is just a couple off the top of my head;; CANARD: 1) Canard attach points on F22 bulkhead, and their mating contact point on the shear web inside the can. 2) The width of the elevator skins need to be shortened to correct for the widened fuselage. 3) The elevator tubes lengths are OK, if you are not changing the canard. 4)The location of the trim and control (counterweight) bellcranks on the canard elevator tubes needs to be moved outboard so they line up properly with the new widened fuselage. CENTERSPAR: Assume the fuselage is 3 inches wider at the centerspar location. 1)The fuselage attach hardpoints in the centerspar need to be moved outboard from their existing location (7.5 inches CL) to line up with the new locations of the fuselage longerons. The new hardpoint location would be at 9 inches CL instead of 7.5. 2) I would add 3 inches (our 3 inch wider example) to the overall size of the centerspar. Add the 3 inches in the middle. This would effectively move the wings out 1 1/2 inch on each side. This would allow standard strakes to be used. MAIN GEAR: 1) The attach points on the gear bow need to be moved outboard so they line up with the new location of LGMA assembly on the fuselage. Follow the plans as these attach points are mounted while the gear is temporally held in place against the fuselage. STRAKES AND WINGS: If the centerspar is widened to match the fuselage width. there shouldn't be any impact on wings or strakes. FIREWALL: 1) New firewall. the fuselage is wider and the engine extrusion (EM-12) penetration points will be farther outboard. (You did put in larger EM-12 to support a larger engine??) 2) New engine mount, because the fuselage attach points are now farther outboard. 3) The Cowling will be different from a standard cowl. so it will need to be custom made. 4) If the aileron control torque tube penetration is placed in reference to the right longerons (it should be). The control rod length for the right wing would be the same, but the left tube will be approximately 3 inches longer than plans. 5) Firewall real estate is at a premium, so you gained about 3 inches wider firewall. this is a plus. SPEED BRAKE: Fuselage is approx 4 inches wider in this area. I would leave the speed brake board the same size. 1) If you used the plans actuator, you will either need to place the actuator pus rod 2 inches off center, or if you build the system yourself, make the torque tube 2 inches longer so the push rod is nor back in the center of the floor. OR 2) Install an electric speed brake. ENGINE COOLING The standard NACA scoop will work, or if you do your own, make it a little wider to match the fuselage. As you can see, it is possible, but you will need to plan ahead. if you follow the plans without thinking about it, you'll wind up with components that don't match. Personally, I wouldn't retrofit, I would do it from scratch. Waiter

If you ever find that you have "to much" power, simply retard the throttle. Unfortunantly, it doesn't work going the other way!! Personally, I would choose the 360. IMHO: The additional weight (50lbs) isn't a major issue. when compared to the O-320, this is probably the only time in life that you will get 1hp per Lb. go for it. From the start I built my LongEZ with the full intent of hanging a 320 on it (this was back in the days when this was considered a great sacralige to chang ANYTHING in the plans). I took great care to move as much weight forward as I could, i.e. Entended the nose (The original nose looks ugly anyway) brakes, ELT, Battery, etc. I moved the battery forward about 18 inches from its plans location. When I made the nose gear bulkheads (can't remember the F desigination that the ratchet assembly sits between these two bulkheads) I extended the forward portions to make a shelf for the battery. This 25 lb weight (the battery) is now resting on the nose gear bulhheads, but in front of the nose pivot point instead of behind it. I also used a heavy battery. I strongly recommend the Odyssey 925 battery. This is a small, but heavy, recombinant battery that can be mounted in ANY position (even upside down) as there is no venting. I will be adding another small battery, probably an Odyssey 310, in front of the existing battery, two batteries will provise seperate power to the two electronic ignition systems. Waiter

Very good, When you adjust them, with no play, make them about 1/8 inch above the trailing edge. Waiter

Assuming that the CG is correct there could be a number of items that can be looked at. 1) Elevator trim. It sounds like the trim spring needs to be tightened a little. Try shortening the upper spring cable by 1/2 inch. The trim should be just about centered at sea level cruise while flying solo. I've found that I generally don't need to touch the elevator trim unless the payload has changed. 2) Aileron adjustment. You need a helper to do this! Have your helper hold one of the ailerons while lining up the trailing edge. Goto the other aileron and apply a light upward pressure until the play is gone. Both ailerons should be lined up with the trailing edge (or even slightly above). Because of control system play, they may hang down slightly below the trailing edge. But when flying, (or helpers lifting them) they both should be trailing edge lined up. 3) Roll problem. This could be a number of things. The first thing I would do would to carefully measure the wing, rudder, fuselage alignment. These measurements can be found in the plans. WHile flying, the engine develops a huge amount of torque, This equates to a right turn. While flying straight and level, look (take photograph) of the ailerons. The left aileron will, stick up just a tiny bit (maybe 1/8 inch). You may need to adjust your trim springs. 4) Wing Bolt Spacers - These can be changed, but I would make sure the measurements are OK first. These shim washers are installed to set up the proper wing measurements in relation to the fuselage and the other wing. Waiter

Drew, I think you summed it up perfectly. Waiter

Wow, I haven't heard that name since 1985. I don't know if they are still in business. I'm not sure who makes engine mounts now. You might check with the CozyGirrrls? I know then do mounts for the Cozy MKIV. http://www.cozygirrrl.com/menupage.htm Waiter

I haven't had any negative experiences; i.e. like the epoxy being eaten by car gas. I had to cut my tanks open when I installed my Infinity Gear, I didn't find anything unusual. The inside of the tanks looked exactly like the day I closed them Good Luck Waiter

I've burned car gas almost exclusively in my EZ for most of its life. I also used automotive oil Castrol 20x50 GTX. The cost saving are translated into flight hours. The cost of less expensive fuel has allowed me to enjoy my EZ more. I posted my operating costs for 2,600 hours of flying. Look at http://www.iflyez.com/operatingcosts.shtml Waiter

Hello Dick, Its been a long time since the old "Hole in the Wall" gang and "Squadron One and Two" I used to commute between San Jose and LA/San Diego everyday. I think I meet you at one of the SQ ONE meetings back in the 80's. Waiter

I have a Oddessy PC-930 battery with standard automotive post connections. I always seemed to have problems with the negative post getting loose. One day several years ago, I mentioned this to a parts counter salesman. His immediate response was " Sounds like you got the wrong post connector on the minus", WHAT??? - I always thought they were the same size. Anyway, I bought a connector from him, and went to the hangar, sure as heck, the Positive and Negative post are different sizes. I installed the correct connector on the cable and have never had any more problems. As for Safety wiring the oil filter: I've never had an oil filter come off of my car (never even heard of it). If it did get loose, I'd have an oil mess, the light would come on, and I would pull off the side of the road. Unfortunately, The consequences of an oil filter loosening in flight would probably be a lot more disastrous, so the cost of safety wire and installation time could be viewed as very inexpensive insurance against an event that is very unlikely to happen. I doubt if a properly tightened oil filter could actually come off on its own. HOWEVER, I would bet that just the act of safety wiring the filter creates an additional and independent check as to the tightness of the filter. Waiter

Lifessamsara; I built my EZ in the mid/late 80's and had the experience of all those first generation EZ builders. In those early days, the overwhelming opinion (against the Rutan purist) was to install an O-320 instead of the plans O-235. So, that was my plan from day one. During the build, I made every attempt was made to move as much weight as far forward as I could. This would head off the Aft CG and Ballast issues with using the heavier engine. 1) Nose extended approximately 18 inches. 2) The battery is installed approximately 12 inches forward of the plans location. 3) The Longerons were a little larger than the plans, i.e. From memory - My Longerons are 1/4 inch thicker than the plans. Use caution on this as it will effect the main gear hardpoint mounting and also the engine mount extrusion hardpoints. 4) I use a Oddessy PC-930 battery instead of one of those pucky 25 amp aircraft batteries. 5) Brake master cylinders are in the nose, not on the firewall. (per Debbie Iwatie plans) 6) Larger size engine mount extrusions. 7) Fill the spar troughs on the wings and centerspar with addition layers of UNI tape. Mine took two or thee additional layers both upper and lower. 8) NACA scoop cooling (although I would consider downdraft cooling if I were building today) nothing to do with O-320, BUT; Look at my web site for things that I am doing during my retrofit. I would consider doing these on a new construction. 1) I love the way I did my Canopy stay, See my web site for details. 2) Add an access panel for the instrument panel in front of the canopy. 3) Bring the forward edge of the canopy back so there is no gap for water to find its way behind the instrument panel. This requires additional layup in the front of the canopy (I used three or four pieces of spar cap UNI to strengthen this area.) 4) Put the landing lights in the leading edge of the wing ( I uses Camaro head lights, but the Projector lamps made today are a better choice) 5) Position the strake bulkhead (the bulkhead that separates the fuel tank from the strake inside storage area) inboard 2 to 3 inches. This would provide 3 or four more gallons capacity per side. WAITER

The FAA puts out several Advisory Circulars (ACs) that describes the entire process, Your local EAA chapter should also have all this information. Here are a couple that you should download and print. Goto the FAAs web site www.faa.gov and search for these documents. They describe the entire process: AC 20-27 - Certification and Operation of Amateur Built Aircraft AC 21-12 - Application for US Airworthiness Certificate (8030-6) AC 90-89 - Amateur Built Aircraft & Ultralight Flight Testing Handbook. These are all very good books and are filled with information and examples. The FAA did a good job puting these together. Serial Number - Most people use their Plans Serial number, but as Eccentric says, you can use any number you want. When you fill out your request for Airworthiness Certificate, there will be a block there asking for you Serial Number. Radio Station License - NO longer required (in the USA). Radio Operators License ALSO no longer required (Ah, the good old days, I still have mine, Class 2 FCC License) Plans Number - The second or third page (License agreement) in the booklet had the Serial Number hand written on it. It had two copies, Rutan would sign both copies, you would sign both copies, then mail one of the copies back to Rutan. Waiter

The box extrusions you have are better than the aluminum ones. Put the aluminum angles in your "spare Part" basket. If you already have the original GU canard, the vortex generators are probably a good idea. If you haven't built the canard yet, I would strongly recomment building the Rontz canard. Waiter