CANARDAV8R

Sorry for the delay, I'm working out of town. I've sold the throttle quad and retract, but still have the strobe kit for sale if anyone's interested. Ed

I've decided to sell my Whelen Strobe kit, Ken Brock Long EZ nose retract and throttle Quadrant. The strobe kit was purchased in March '06 and is still in packages along with the wiring installation kit and instructions. The Ken Brock three lever throttle quadrant and cables were never installed. The plane has not flown yet, so the Ken Brock nose gear retract is in perfect condition, but was removed to install a Jack Wilhelmson electric retract. -Whelen Strobe Kit- This system is popular with Long-EZ, Q2, Q200 builders and others using a lightweight, low amperage generator or alternator. It consists of: Two A 600-PG/PR Wingtip Strobe Lights, One A 413A, HDS -14/28 (Single Flash 20 Joules) remote mounted Power Supply, HD -60 Installation Kit (Lists for $810.00 at Aircraft Spruce) -Ken Brock Nose Gear Retract -Ken Brock Three Lever Throttle Quadrant with cables I will take the best reasonable offers here, before listing on ebay. For pictures or to make offers, please email me at:emoreno1@bellsouth.net or call 337-438-5626. Thanks in advance! Ed Moreno Long EZ Project http://rotary-ez.myairplane.com

Marc and Waiter, thank you for your response. I need to remember KISS, like the mirror suggestion and I will definately change the senders to the capacitive type. I'll also follow Waiter's suggestions on the installations. Thanks again...Ed

I have a bad neck and it's difficult to turnaround to see the site fuel gauges in the back seat of my Long EZ. Has anyone put electric fuel sending units in the strakes and a fuel gauge on the panel? I just purchased two GM fuel sending units with a float arms to send signals to the RWS monitor on the panel. I plan to put the sending units between the site gauge and rear back seat. Does anyone see an issue with this setup? I'm burning unleaded auto fuel in a 13 B rotary. Any comments? Ed

I appreciate your response and will keep it in mind. However I am a little further along than you know. You can go to my web site and follow my progress at http://rotary-ez.myairplane.com. I have all the prefab bells and whistles for the modifications previously listed. To date; I've installed a 195 hp rotary engine built by Bruce at Rotary Resources. It's controlled by Tracy Crook's EC2 engine controller and monitored by his EM-2, as well as driven by his RD-1C re-drive. I have also mounted the IVO Magnum 68", 105 in flight adjustable prop to help push it along. All this will be wired by Bob Whites wiring harness. Jack W. retracts and bearings. Currently building the Roncz Canard with Marty Martindale (the first person to build one, and featured in the CP's) and will be cutting the nose to extend the cg. I hope to have the LEZ in the air before the end of summer. I have one question, where did you get the EFIS lite G4. I've had an order in with BMA for 4 months for the EFIS Lite G4 and have just spoke with Greg the owner of BMA who assured me none have been sent out as of yet. I and others would like to see pictures of your project. There aren't many of us around building Rotary LEZ's.

Thought I would post my web site for anyone interested in what my Rotary Long EZ looked like. It can be seen at: http://rotary-ez.myairplane.com I'll be changing the nose soon to move the battery and weight further forward for proper cg. I've just received all the metal parts from Jack W. and have cut out all the foam with Marty Martindale to build the Roncz canard. Let me know what you think. Canardav8r

Thanks for the info. I'm not sure what the horsepower will be at the prop. If it is equivalent to a Lycoming 320 or 360 I'll be happy. My focus is dependability and safety. I haven't posted for a while so allow me to bring everyone up to date. I recently purchased a complete Long EZ airframe that has put me years ahead of building. Now all I need to do is paint, add an engine and install a panel. To do this, I've ordered a 13B engine from rotary resources with the aviation modifications. I'm a fair mechanic but after watching the 13B overhaul video I felt it best initially to be completed by a professional. When the TBO is due (2000 to 4000 hrs) I'll do the overhaul at a cost of about $700. Bruce has assured me with the porting and modifications the engine will produce about 180hp on the dyno. http://rotaryresources.com/ It will be mounted to the airframe with a Conversion Concepts engine mount that I've recently ordered. http://conversionconcepts.com/index.html The engine will have all of Tracy Crook's Real World Solution components, i.e. RD-1C redrive with a 2.85:1 gear drive, EC2 engine controller and EM2 engine monitor. http://www.rotaryaviation.com/ I received the IVO Magnum in flight adjustable prop with a 68" diameter blade and a 105 pitch last week. Looks great! http://www.ivoprop.com/ I'm being told with this combination I can expect a great climb and cruse with outstanding fuel performance. Even if it is the same as a Lycoming 320 or 360 I feel better with the rotary three moving parts and $2 gal fuel. I'm not an engineer but from my research this was the best rotary combination I could come up with. The only thing left to do is the cooling and exhaust. To do this I intend to follow George Graham's cooling example and will mount two Flow master Hush Power II mufflers to keep things quiet. I hope I've answered your question, if not visit the links above. Ed

GREAT NEWS!!!! I found the missing templates. Moving forward... Ed

I need assistance. Last night in preperation for the build, I counted the newley aquired template sheets for our Long EZ and discovered we are missing A1, A2, A4, A5, and A12. Can anyone help with providing either old templates or copies of the templates. I'd be glad to pay for your effort. If anyone knows how to solve this issue please email at emoreno1@cox-internet.com. I believe I have enough to build the aircraft with what I have but would feel better if I had all the info before building in Jan. '06. HELP! Ed

David, Radiator connection: George Graham has his three radiators setup the same way you've described without the electric fan. If you private post or email me and give me your physical address I'll be glad to send you the Contact issue #62 newsletter he sent me. He's posting temps from 150 to 180F even with full run ups and long taxis. I've decided to adopt his cooling system. My only concern was he installed it in an E-Racer style aircraft and may have more room in his cowl than a Long EZ. I do plan on installing ram air in the cowling (probably arm pit) to aid in cooling the additional radiators. Oil Cooling: I know oil is helpful in keeping an engine cool by pulling temps away. However, I've read you should mix two stroke oil in your fuel to properly lubricate the ceramic seals in a rotary. Do you have any info on this process? I didn't know that about Bruce and his engines. I'll do more research about overhauling the engine myself. I have a friend that has just overhauled his rotary and said it was the easiest thing to do. Thanks for the info Ed

David, Thanks for the reply. You may be the one to ask about my two stage cooling system I had written on an earlier post. I was wondering why we couldn't use a two stage radiator system. Mount a radiator in the air flow beneath the plane without an electric fan. Mount a second radiator beneath the engine and out of the airflow with an electric fan mounted on it. Both radiators would be smaller but equivalent or larger to the area of one radiator needed to properly cool the engine. They would be hosed together in succession, from the engine to the electric radiator to the airflow radiator and back to the engine. The radiator system should be a closed pressurized system with at least a 16 lbs radiator cap. It will also need an overflow tank mounted on the firewall. A closed system is needed because for every pound of pressure in the radiator system you reduce the boiling point by 10 degrees. This is why modern radiators are so much smaller now and not the size found in my '51 Chevy truck. When taxiing on a runway the electric fan radiator thermal switch would switch on the fan keeping the temp reduced. It may not totally keep the temp at 180F but below boiling. When in the air the second airflow radiator would kick in keeping the temp at 180F and allowing the thermal switch to kick off the electric fan radiator. Keeping the electric fan out of the airflow would eliminate the air dam issue. I currently plan on using George Graham's three radiator setup if I have enough room under the LEZ cowl. This is detailed in Contact newsletter issue #62. He had a rotary race car driver give him a great tip on cooling. He said to ensure the hot water hose is connected to a radiator and not capped off because it will cause the rotary to overheat at high rpms. If this doesn't work I'll be forced to use the two stage system described above. On the gas saving issue: Safety is the biggest factor for my rotary decision. If the rotary is a little higher in fuel consumption than the Lycoming, as you said earlier other benefits will offset the difference. Do you know the recommended TBO for a rotary? I thought about overhauling the engine myself but changed my mind. I have experience in conventional auto mechanics but not with the rotary. I felt something as important as this should be left to the experts and is why I plan on getting Bruce to do it with the aviation mods. Ed

Scott, Thanks for the info. I feel a little better now about some of the projects I've seen. I still plan on building the LEZ from the beginning and will continue to visit your site for inspiration. I received the CSA newsletters last week and have read all four quarterly issues twice. There's a lot of good info about all aspects of canard construction. We're also planning on being added to the CSA list for pilots to call that need help in our area. CSA is a great organization and I'm proud to be a part of it. There's a lot of CP changes I'm trying to ensure the plans are updated with. I hope to make the first order soon. I've also started cutting out templates in preparation of the build. Counting down the days. Ed

Thanks Scott, To save time, I initially looked at purchasing a partially completed Long EZ project, but felt the dark brown color indicated it was left in the sun too long. I've watched Burt and Mikes construction video several times and the epoxy they used was never a dark brown. I've found some projects so dark they almost looked black. Maybe this was a different type of epoxy system. Is there a way to tell if an old Long EZ project has UV damage? I know what UV damage can do to my bay boat fiberglass, is it the same? I do plan to use the MGS 285 epoxy system for the entire project. I hear it has superior adhesion than the old epoxies. On the hp issue. I trust Bruce and know his work at Rotary Resources. They're several COZY and Velocity builders currently installing his rotaries with Tracy Cook re-drives. The only problem I had was the cooling issue that was recently solved by George Graham. I plan on using George's three radiator system to keep things cool. I'm no longer concerned about too much hp because I've found several Long EZ's with V8 engines installed that put out much more hp than the renesis will. I'm currently reviewing the CP's and making changes to the Long EZ plans to ensure accuracy. I hope to make a material purchase as soon as this is finished. Thanks again, Ed

I have a quick question for someone. Why is the epoxy on some partially completed aircraft a dark brown? Is this because it was kept in the sunlight and may have UV damage? Ed

Dale, I appreciate the info and will keep it in mind. My plans are to get Bruce Turintine of "Rotary Resources" to build the engine with aviation mods for about $5700. This eliminates the guess work and assures the engine is built right with the latest modifications. It still saves around 20K from a traditional 360 of equil power. Ed