John DiStefano

I had a similar incident w/ACS. I forget what chapter it was, but plans call for a length of plywood...2'x4'(sorry I do not recall the exact dimensions), But on 3(THREE) separate occasions they sent me a 2"x24" piece of ply!!...charging big $$. Yes, they did eventually make it right. I took a VERY long time. And no, they did not let me keep the 3 pieces of 2"x24" pieces of ply..they had me send it back in this Ginormous box..had to cost more to mail this big box than the value of the ply!!!

If I had to do this part again, This is exactly how I would do it.. Also I think it helps keep the rest of the fibers on the fuse sides straight. Just use the plans repair requirements (1" per ply...)when creating the depressions. How ya doin" JD

Smartlevel is the way to go!! Got to watch how I say this, before so engineer type flames me... The read out is to the 10th of a degree. SEEMS highly accurate...but you calibrate it to a spirit level... This along with a few other levels and a tape measure is all you need to ensure your fuse is level, plumb,square ETC..

Steve, what do you mean? I screwed up the slugs, not the cover. everyone, thanks for your input. JD

Nice picture. Someone has a CAD program!! and too much free time.

OK, here's what I did. I drilled the #21 holes into the aluminum slugs.. 15 out of 16 came out real nice. One needs repair, only about 1/2 the diameter of the drilled hole is in the slug. But here is ther real issue. I read the directions wrong, followed them too literally w/out paying attention, I proceded to opening the slugs AND the gear cover with a # 11 drill bit. So, now, of course the tap does absolutely nothing and the S50 screws just drop in. Not good. So, how to fix. A- Should I go with the next largest Diameter Machine screw? Which would be 1/4" X 28 I think. B- Flox and re-tap the per the plans s50's C-? Thanks JD

1 degree over 12' equals 2.75 inches.....Are you sure

So....I'm "just another forum member"...Oh, I see

The Matcho Man said.."Just thought I'd attach this here, just in case something happens to the "Internet"." Funny!! I thought the PTC fuses were interesting too.. 24V equipment might be more expensive, but we are building Cozy's right? How much stuff are we putting in here. Not like we are building a B-777 Just thought it was an interesting alternative JD

I think that putting the plywood under the structure will certainly make the table stiffer. I did the same thing...used a hole saw so I could access the bolts with a ratchet

congrats!! that was 2 quarts of slow right? you need 2 qts of something with 285....2 slow or 2 fast or 1 of each. Great stuff enjoy

Where it is true that a rotary has fewer mechanicals (moving parts) compared to say Lyc's 20-some-odd parts in the valve train, engines DO fail for other reasons. I guess you really need to look at failure rates of ALL the engines components, not just the mechanicals. BTW, that's a pretty good leap going from a Wankel rotary to a turbine

Not too shabby Jon. Looks nice!! when I made my table, I allowed for a 1 inch overhang of the table top...makes clamping easier. Also, I screwed on a 2nd layer (MDF) on top...made the table stiffer (and heavier) and if it got damaged for what ever reason, could be easily replaced.. However to this date, I have found no reason/need to replace the top. Still in good shape....Maybe I need to build more huh? JD

I don't do MKE anymore...We lost that flight to the EMB-145....The same plane we are taking to RR.

Fly Continental!!!

thanks for the reply...I will post a picture when done

I just finished fabricating my jig for the attach tabs. And as some of you have experienced, a portion of the leading edge (near where the bulge was) protrudes approximately .15" past the fwd face of parts D and E of the jig. I did sand down the maximum 1/8" off the bulge BTW. Checked the FAQ... it says in part ..."If necessary, adjust the width of your jig box". That does not seem like a good idea. Checked the archives, for anything with the word "strut" or "landing gear".. there was some discussion of trimming the strut flush with D and E. However there did not seem to be a consensus regarding if it is OK to sand thru the torsion layups.. So, anymore thoughts of sand thru the torsion layups? In my case the TE of the strut is fine.. The LE at the max protrudes .15" tapering down to flush.. Would this be an acceptable alternative? Would it be OK to just leave the strut bulge the way it is on the LE? So that as the tab layups on the FWD face overlap the LE, they somewhat continue aft that .15" (max) and then are flush with most of the FWD face of parts D and E. Looking at M-9, it does not look like this bulge will interfere with getting this assembly into position since it(the bulge) is below MG-2. On M-9, there looks like approx .5" clearance between the tab and the FWD LGBH and .25" between the tab and MG-2. Has anyone tried this approach? All thoughts are welcomed. Thanks JD

Rich, Is Aerocad making you just the SX top? or the whole Magilla... I am interested in the top...looks nice..I checked the website, did not see anything WRT price for the SX top. JD

WEDYH!!!

Any suggestion for a 100 degree countersink? Both Wicks and ACS sell them but they are completely different Thanks

I Do not think so Nathan... I had not used kerosene at all yet. I was on my 2nd or 3rd fill up of Diesel. Maybe I got a bad batch.....but anyway kerosene does work better in my Kerosene heater

Well, I doubt it is my heater, seems to be a pretty good one. Maybe it was bad Diesel fuel. I now recall a while ago you mentioning using diesel fuel with good results, which was why I tried it. But since my experience with it I never tried it again. So..

Because I tried it Marc, and it did NOT burn cleanly. Lots of soot and smoke. I could not stay in my garage when the heater was operating. Switched to Kerosene, and now I really can't tell that the heater is on. The only time it puts out a bit of smoke is on start up or shut down...That's it!!

I have an attached garage 20X24 Ceiling is about 12-13' high. I really see no benefit to leaving the heat on all the time. The Epoxy is in a hot box with a light bulb keeping it warm. I have a kerosene heater I think it is a 28k BTU heater and it does a really nice job of heating up the space. In addition to the kerosene heater, I have an electric radiant heater dropped down from the ceiling, I can point this at the work table or my fuselage and this does a tremendous job of warming up the Fuse prior to any glass work. ($50 at Lowes.) I also have some of those LP tanktop Radiant heaters, but I don't use them very often...occasionally. This weekend,it was in the teens here in Jersey. I completed a large layup and the kerosene heater did a great job of maintaining 75F. If you decide to go the Kerosene heater route, Only burn the 1K or K1 fuel..DO NOT BURN Diesel fuel...very bad results..

try www.towerhobbies.com they used to sell it