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John DiStefano

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    44
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About John DiStefano

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 08/03/1965

Flying Information

  • Flying Status
    B-777

Personal Information

  • Location (Public)
    Bayville,New Jersey
  • Occupation
    Pilot, Continental Airlines

Project/Build Information

  • Plane
    Cozy Mark IV
  • Plans Number
    1120
  • Chapter
    9

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://

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  1. I had a similar incident w/ACS. I forget what chapter it was, but plans call for a length of plywood...2'x4'(sorry I do not recall the exact dimensions), But on 3(THREE) separate occasions they sent me a 2"x24" piece of ply!!...charging big $$. Yes, they did eventually make it right. I took a VERY long time. And no, they did not let me keep the 3 pieces of 2"x24" pieces of ply..they had me send it back in this Ginormous box..had to cost more to mail this big box than the value of the ply!!!
  2. If I had to do this part again, This is exactly how I would do it.. Also I think it helps keep the rest of the fibers on the fuse sides straight. Just use the plans repair requirements (1" per ply...)when creating the depressions. How ya doin" JD
  3. Smartlevel is the way to go!! Got to watch how I say this, before so engineer type flames me... The read out is to the 10th of a degree. SEEMS highly accurate...but you calibrate it to a spirit level... This along with a few other levels and a tape measure is all you need to ensure your fuse is level, plumb,square ETC..
  4. Steve, what do you mean? I screwed up the slugs, not the cover. everyone, thanks for your input. JD
  5. Nice picture. Someone has a CAD program!! and too much free time.
  6. OK, here's what I did. I drilled the #21 holes into the aluminum slugs.. 15 out of 16 came out real nice. One needs repair, only about 1/2 the diameter of the drilled hole is in the slug. But here is ther real issue. I read the directions wrong, followed them too literally w/out paying attention, I proceded to opening the slugs AND the gear cover with a # 11 drill bit. So, now, of course the tap does absolutely nothing and the S50 screws just drop in. Not good. So, how to fix. A- Should I go with the next largest Diameter Machine screw? Which would be 1/4" X 28 I think. B- Flox and re-tap the per the plans s50's C-? Thanks JD
  7. 1 degree over 12' equals 2.75 inches.....Are you sure
  8. So....I'm "just another forum member"...Oh, I see
  9. The Matcho Man said.."Just thought I'd attach this here, just in case something happens to the "Internet"." Funny!! I thought the PTC fuses were interesting too.. 24V equipment might be more expensive, but we are building Cozy's right? How much stuff are we putting in here. Not like we are building a B-777 Just thought it was an interesting alternative JD
  10. I think that putting the plywood under the structure will certainly make the table stiffer. I did the same thing...used a hole saw so I could access the bolts with a ratchet
  11. congrats!! that was 2 quarts of slow right? you need 2 qts of something with 285....2 slow or 2 fast or 1 of each. Great stuff enjoy
  12. Where it is true that a rotary has fewer mechanicals (moving parts) compared to say Lyc's 20-some-odd parts in the valve train, engines DO fail for other reasons. I guess you really need to look at failure rates of ALL the engines components, not just the mechanicals. BTW, that's a pretty good leap going from a Wankel rotary to a turbine
  13. Not too shabby Jon. Looks nice!! when I made my table, I allowed for a 1 inch overhang of the table top...makes clamping easier. Also, I screwed on a 2nd layer (MDF) on top...made the table stiffer (and heavier) and if it got damaged for what ever reason, could be easily replaced.. However to this date, I have found no reason/need to replace the top. Still in good shape....Maybe I need to build more huh? JD
  14. I don't do MKE anymore...We lost that flight to the EMB-145....The same plane we are taking to RR.

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