John DiStefano

If one chose to use all metal parts available from Brock, the cost would approach $5000 I am told. So far, I have not ordered parts from them,but probably will in the next few months. Also, I hear that the quality and precision of Brock's parts is not that good. I guess since they have not competition, they just do not care. So, why is it that they have no competition. Let's just say there are 1000 sets of plans out there, some might never finish building right? So say 50% of these 1000 sets of plans buy 50% of Brock available products. 500 people buy $2500 worth of parts. What's that, about $10,000?...Just kidding ..Seriously that is alot of coin. I am sure my estimates are off, but still.. What do you all think>>

Builders; Greg Richter Created a guide to aircraft wiring. It is entitled "Aircraft wiring for Smart People...A Bare Knuckles How to Guide".(see the link below) An obvious dig at the author of the Aeroelectric Connection. But, I read it from cover to cover anyway. Greg makes some compelling arguments that seem to be a contradiction to the "Connection". Such as: using a 24V system 1 alternator PTC fuses vs CB's or fuses teflon wire But then I stumbled across this: http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/richter/response_1.pdf it is a critique of Greg's guide, page by page by Bob Nuckolls. Seems like Bob and Greg are in a pissing match. So, why bring this up you ask. Well, I liked Greg's simplistic approach, kind of boiling down Aeroelctric Connection down to its nuts and bolts in just 37 pages. But, after reading Bob's critique...I don't know. I am NOT an engineer, I am a pilot. To me, the "Connection" is great, but sometimes more than I NEED to know, You know? So, my question to you all, If you have read the "connection" and Greg's guide (and Bob's response) what do you think? Are there 2 ways to skin the cat here? Are both acceptable, safe reliable methods and techniques ETC? or should one be ignored... Thanks and I look forward to your responses JD

Absolutely classic! ... But what does changing a lightbulb have to do with the internet OR with building a canard?????

Dust, With all due respect...not really...What is your problem. What was the point of you post? . As Jon pointed out, this is just 1 resource for canard builders. If you don't like it... don't visit it. I for one, am very appreciative of the hard work AND expense that Jon has put into this forum. Go grind your Axe somewhere else. John DiStefano

IMHO, retracts are NOT worth the effort. I admit, they look "cool" . But the speed benefit, 15 - 20 mph more.... Not worth it. I am assuming that there is a weight penalty as well. Plus, you carry less fuel right.

Jon, thanks for the picture shrink tip. Here it is. JD

Jon, The seatback looks great! your corners (cut @ the 45degree angle) look good. Since you came over that night I have done a good amount of BID taping. Just a bit more to do, then it's on to CH 7!!

Congrats Jon!! Looks great actually, Just don't let your girls near your layups with crayons next time!! JD aka X

Yes they are..up until May 1st I believe.

I know there are plans out there for this, but I had a few ideas I wanted to throw out there to get a discussion started. I was looking at the trunk of my Dad's car the other day. It's an Infiniti G20. The only reason I mention that is if you happen to see the car you will know what I am talking about. It has what looks like a very compact hinge mechanism. The gas/air shocks are integral with the mounting bracket. It kind of has "compound" action as well. The first few inches of the trunk opening also somewhat raises the hinge action. You know what I mean? The trunk lifts up AND hinges open. The hinge itself looks like it could also very easily mount to the upper longerons on the inboard vertical surface. With the other part of the hinge bracket mounting to the bottom side of the canopy to some hardpoint or pad. When I say "very easily", what I really mean is the bracket and the longerons surfaces sit flush. How they would physically be secured together I am not so sure. Another Q.. Securing the canopy closed.. Would it be best to have 1 locking mechanism on the aft portion of the canopy (near or on the drip rail) OR just use the plans locking system on both sides of the fuselage? Any thoughts?

I just came across this website: http://WWW.technoscout.com . THey sell what they call "The Memory Foam Ultra Mattress Topper". It looks like it might be a good source for seat cushion foam. They sell a few sizes. The twin dimensions are: Twin 72"L x 34"W x 2"D for $149. I am not at the point of upholstering my seats yet, because , well, I really don't have any seats To upholster yet. But I thought I would thow it out there for those of you who ARE about ready to. Let me know what you all think JD

Sorry George, did not see your post.. What he said!!

I though I would also post how I measure the epoxy. It is not really different from how C Barber mentioned earlier but here goes. 1- take a paper cup could be new, or one with cured epoxy or alittle left over from a previous batch. 2 - put cup on scale, and "Zero it out"... Tare function IIRC 3 - Pump the desired amount resin in the cup. Usually 2-4 shots from the west pump and weigh it. Lets say its 65 grams. 4 - "Zero it out" again, which is just pressing a button. look up on my handy mixing ratio spreadsheet that hangs on the outside of my hot box. Find 65 grams in the resin column, look over at the hardener column and it says X grams of hardener. 5 - in a small plastic cup I put in a few pumps of fast/slow/both hardeners depending on my cure time I want.. This I do not weigh, but swirl it around a bit 6 - pour the hardener mixture into the resin cup which is still on the scale, and stop when the scale reads X. Elapsed time, for steps 1 - 6, 30 seconds guaranteed accurate mix with no clean up ever. The excel spreadsheet is not hard to do and I would say it is essential if using a scale. If anyone is interested, fire me an EMail or just post here and I'll send it.

I use a gram scale (O haus is the mfg...$60 online)WITH West epoxy pumps. I have never used the pump which is probably marginally faster. But here is why I decided scale over pump: 1 - The thought of cleaning it is a BIG turn off. Even if it is only once in a while. 2 - IIRC, you need to check it every so often to make sure it is calibrated correctly, so you need a scale anyway.. I was afraid that after doing a large or very important lay-up I would find out that the pump is off calibration. It seems as though you should probably use a scale if you use a pump. 3 - I am using the MGS 285 with fast and slow hardener and I seldom use JUST fast OR slow...usually some combo of them both.. How do you use a pump when you are using 2 different hardeners? I am sure some one who uses the pump could answer this though. The West system pumps seem to work fine. For the resin, Every full shot is 22grams. For the hardener, I use a smaller pump, 9 grams per full shot. They do however require ocasional maintenance (once so far).

I knew I read it some where about surface prep washing.... Last paragraph Basic Composite Construction Sport Aviation 8/99 By Ron Alexander Over the past few months we have discussed most aspects of building a composite airplane. This article will focus on a few specific items that require explanation such as proper preparation of parts prior to bonding, post-curing, blushing problems, etc. Preparation of Composite Parts In the last issue, I outlined a brief procedure for preparing composite parts prior to bonding. This step is most important and needs to be amplified. The quality of a bond is directly affected by the preparation of the two parts being joined together. If contamination exists on either part, the bond may be weakened even to the point of subsequent failure. Let me emphasize that you should follow the directions found in the kit manufacturer's manual regarding proper cleaning techniques. However, the preparation procedure is important enough to warrant more detailed discussion. First of all, when bonding to an outside mold surface (such as many of the parts you receive from the kit manufacturer) cleaning and sanding of the parts is always required. When aircraft parts are molded, a release agent is applied to the inside of the mold itself allowing the part to be removed when cured. This mold release agent must be removed prior to any bonding activity. The agent is barely visible. Water will usually remove this agent. After removal of the agent and any contaminants, sanding is then accomplished. Any surface that is smooth because of being next to a mold must be sanded prior to bonding. Any primer that may be present must also be removed. Sanding is generally the accepted way to prepare the surface. Opinions vary on the proper grit of sandpaper to be used. Usually 80 grit to 180 grit is recommended. Our workshop experience has shown that 180 grit sandpaper is usually satisfactory to prepare the surface. Use of 180 grit will ensure the underlying fibers are not damaged or cut. The surface should be thoroughly abraded (roughed) to completely remove any glossy areas. Abaris Training, located in Reno, Nevada, instructs the military, airlines and aerospace industry on composite construction and repair. I consult with Mike Hoke, the President of Abaris, regularly concerning composite construction. His company is considered to be one of the leading composite training companies in the United States. The following quote was taken directly from their training manual regarding surface preparation. "High surface energy is the goal, not mechanical roughness. One must shear up the top layer of molecules on the surface, creating many broken bonds, without damaging or breaking underlying fibers. A water break test can be used to determine surface energy. If surface energy is high, clean distilled water will spread out in a thin uniform film on the surface, and will not break into beads. If a water break free surface can be maintained for 30 seconds, one has achieved a clean, high energy surface suitable for bonding. If the surface is contaminated or at low energy, the water will break into rivulets and bead up. "Note that tap water will not work. It is dirty enough to contaminate the surface itself, and one will never pass a water break test using it. "It is important to note that the 'high energy"'condition, once achieved, is short-lived. Within about 2-4 hours the effect is lost. In composites, one should therefore wait as late as possible in the process before surface abrasion is performed, so that all else is ready and the adhesive can be quickly applied." Dry the water off of the laminate with a hair dryer prior to applying the adhesive. If it is wiped with a cloth it will likely contaminate the area again. Do not use a heat gun for this process. The heat is too intense and may damage the cured resin. This process also applies to peel ply surfaces. Even though a peel ply surface fractures the top layer of resin, it leaves a glossy, low energy surface in the weave pattern of woven cloth. This must be abraded for proper bonding. So, how should you clean parts prior to bonding? The best procedure is to simply sand the surface, as discussed, and follow by a thorough cleaning with soap and water. If you are using solvents, use them initially to remove contaminants and then abrade the surface. Follow by soap and water and then immediately dry using a hair dryer. Remember to begin the bonding process within a few hours after preparing the surface.

Since we are on the topic of surface prep.. What are you all doing AFTER sanding the area.. I have been using the shop vac to get up the dust, then using a bit of dish soap and Hot water on a clean towel, then rinsing the same area with another towel with hot water again. After that, drying the area with hair dryer or space heater and make sure it is good and dry before commencing the next layup. All this done, just prior to doing the layup so the area will not be contaminated.. What other Techniques have you been using?

Jon, I recently has a similar "trojan". I went to Symantec's website and they had a fix..(Norton Utilities found it, but could not remove it) It was a 4 step fix...making a small change to the registry John DiStefano

Builders, MY wife (Suzanne) got me the Fein Multimaster as a Christmas gift. All I can say is WOW!!. I just had to rave about it. It cuts thru many layers of glass, flox, whatever "like Butta" (I live in Jersey). Say good bye to the Roto zip. This one came with a bunch of sanding pads and the HSS semi circular saw blade. Should be considered a required tool!! I know ,I know Preaching to the choir , right? I put the same post on the Cozy List.. John Di Stefano #1120 NJ

Hello Builders, Not to fan the flames of what has turned out to be a very hot topic...(pardon the puns) . But I bought a kerosene heater to warm my workshop.. I also have 2 Propane radiant heaters as well. I really like this kerosene heater (28,000 BTU's). Here is the problem though.. In this part of Jersey it is very difficult to find 1 - K grade kerosene. I did find it at my local hardware store, but it cost $12 for a 2.5 gallon container. This 1-K stuff burns very clean, low odor as well. I am tempted to just try diesel from the local gas station. Has anyone tried this yet? <I put the same post up on the Cozy list> BTW, I really like this format. I work for Continental Express and the pilot group uses the same forum.... Thanks John DiStefano #1120