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Berkut Canopy hinges wanted


xaplax
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Larry,

 

for my IBIS project I'm also going to need a couple of hinges and I would be very interested to learn more about your design.

 

The standard IBIS canopy hinge line is outside of the fuselage, so I'll end up with to metal parts sticking out of the starboard side. I'm looking for a way to have them 'embedded' to reduce drag and to end up with a cleaner visual appearance.

 

What kind of hinge did you design?

 

take care

Hans

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Hans,

in my opinion, a much better solution than the backward opening Berkut canopy, with the inherent risk of catastrophic opening in flight, is the forward opening canopy of the Cosy Classic, or the Cozy Girrls design for the Cozy MkIV, or the Dutch Aircraft Factory RangeR design with its clever release mechanism if you have to bail out. See:

http://www.dac-ranger.nl/canrel_uk.html

Kumaros

It's all Greek to me

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Hans,

in my opinion, a much better solution than the backward opening Berkut canopy, with the inherent risk of catastrophic opening in flight, is the forward opening canopy of the Cosy Classic, or the Cozy Girrls design for the Cozy MkIV, or the Dutch Aircraft Factory RangeR design with its clever release mechanism if you have to bail out. See:

http://www.dac-ranger.nl/canrel_uk.html

Kumaros

I feel the IBIS canopy is too long and too light to consider a flip forward/flip back solution. For sturdyness, I want to keep the original configuration (two hinges on the port side) but I'd like to have those hinges out of the airflow. Currently, they stick out quite a bit, because of the round shape of the lower canopy side.

 

bye

Hans

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  • 10 months later...

I built a set of hinges for Mackie Chapman's Berkut (#007?) many years ago. I still have the CAD files on an old computer. If you want, I'll dig 'em up and send a copy to you.

xaplax did you ever get a copy of the CAD files for the hinges? If so can I get a copy of them from Larry or you? here is my personal email cfi@aandn.org

 

Would be much appreciated

More RIGHT Rudder, MORE RIGHT RUDDER!!!! :scared:

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For sturdyness, I want to keep the original configuration (two hinges on the port side) but I'd like to have those hinges out of the airflow.

I'm considering these for my Long-EZ to replace those blasted piano hinges that stick out into the breeze:

 

http://www.soss.com/product/art/medium.asp

 

These blind hinges are available in stainless steel which is great. They also "lift" as they open (the hinge line moves up and out) which should eliminate the binding that occurs between the canopy edge and the longeron when using piano hinges that are tucked in too tight. :irked:

 

Perhaps they're a good fit for your IBIS?

 

D

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Sorry :o

 

I've been away for a while. I'll draw these tonight and post the cad files, so everyone can have them. :cool: DXF, PDF, DWG. I'll put all three up there. My buddy John offered to take his berkut canopy hinge off of his airplane so I could draw it up into cad maybe more accurately than this drawing. I'll do what I can with this one, then I'll take Johns and make any revisions that may need to be done. By the way john has the full plans and drawings of the berkut so any other parts (with in reason) I can recreat in cad format.

 

Tony

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Thanks for the extra effort (as usual), Tony! :cool:

 

BTW, that's a digital pic of my copy of the Berkut drawings. I'm certainly interested in hearing how these dimensions compare to John's actual parts. Gotta love redlines!

 

Thanks again!

 

D

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  • 7 months later...

So ....... has anyone taken this to the next level? (i.e. built the hinge)

I'm using the Berkut style canopy hinge in my project. I figured I would build them out of Carbon Fiber.

 

What has anyone else used to fabricate this hinge?

T Mann - Loooong-EZ/20B Infinity R/G Chpts 18

Velocity/RG N951TM

Mann's Airplane Factory

We add rocket's to everything!

4, 5, 6, 7, 8. 9, 10, 14, 19, 20 Done

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I'm considering these for my Long-EZ to replace those blasted piano hinges that stick out into the breeze:

 

http://www.soss.com/product/art/medium.asp

 

These blind hinges are available in stainless steel which is great. They also "lift" as they open (the hinge line moves up and out) which should eliminate the binding that occurs between the canopy edge and the longeron when using piano hinges that are tucked in too tight. :irked:

 

Perhaps they're a good fit for your IBIS?

 

D

Hi 'D',

 

a bit late, my answer, I'm sorry about that. Your proposal looks rather interesting. Would these hinges also allow for a pivot point that should be some 2 inches outside the fuselage line?

 

bye

Hans

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Would these hinges also allow for a pivot point that should be some 2 inches outside the fuselage line?

Hello Hans,

 

Looks like the pivot on the medium duty hinges (e.g. - 220T) are only about 1" out from the hinge center. They might have one that will get you out to 2"... but my guess is that it'll make a better boat anchor than a canopy hinge. ;)

 

D

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Somewhere, in my dim and dimming memory, I seem to remember the dragonfly using a canopy hinge called the "Lazy Tong" The dragonfly also has a fuselage that tapers toward the front, and I don't remember seeing any of them with an external hinge.

 

Mine was front hinged.

I Canardly contain myself!

Rich :D

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Somewhere, in my dim and dimming memory, I seem to remember the dragonfly using a canopy hinge called the "Lazy Tong" The dragonfly also has a fuselage that tapers toward the front, and I don't remember seeing any of them with an external hinge.

 

Mine was front hinged.

I found it on Wicks site. It kind of reminds me of the european style hinges found on cabinets. I think I could scale it up and beef it up for my purposes.

 

Thanks for the meaningful feedback. :D

T Mann - Loooong-EZ/20B Infinity R/G Chpts 18

Velocity/RG N951TM

Mann's Airplane Factory

We add rocket's to everything!

4, 5, 6, 7, 8. 9, 10, 14, 19, 20 Done

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Okay .... here's what I decided on. I ordered some 3/4 inch x 4 inch aluminum stock. In the attached drawing I'll create the red portion out of a piece that is .75 x 2.0 x 4.0

The curved part will be cut in profile from the stock as a .75 x .75 curved piece (times 4). The 4 pieces will be welded to the .75 x 2.0 x 4.0 piece.

This bolts to the canopy.

The rounded edge at the opposite end is where the hinge pin goes.

 

My material will be here in time for the weekend.

 

I have also designed a locking system that locks both the front canopy and the rear canopy at the same time ..... but that's a later post. :D

post-2251-141090156092_thumb.jpg

T Mann - Loooong-EZ/20B Infinity R/G Chpts 18

Velocity/RG N951TM

Mann's Airplane Factory

We add rocket's to everything!

4, 5, 6, 7, 8. 9, 10, 14, 19, 20 Done

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just came in from working on my hinges. I had a revelation yesterday.

Wow ...... so obvious I don't know why I didn't think of it before. Aluminum is relatively painless to cast. You make your part out of styrofoam, take it down to the local foundry. They pack it in sand, pour in the molten aluminum and voila ..... instant part! The molten aluminum vaporizes the foam when you pour it in.

 

I made 16 gauge aluminum templates and then cut the foam with a hand held 6 inch hotwire with questionable success. I finally printed the layout on label paper, stuck it on the foam and just cut out the shape on the bandsaw. Overkill, maybe but it sure worked well.

 

I'll drop them off at the foundry over lunch tomorrow.

post-2251-141090156103_thumb.jpg

T Mann - Loooong-EZ/20B Infinity R/G Chpts 18

Velocity/RG N951TM

Mann's Airplane Factory

We add rocket's to everything!

4, 5, 6, 7, 8. 9, 10, 14, 19, 20 Done

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I just came in from working on my hinges. I had a revelation yesterday.

Wow ...... so obvious I don't know why I didn't think of it before. Aluminum is relatively painless to cast. You make your part out of styrofoam, take it down to the local foundry. They pack it in sand, pour in the molten aluminum and voila ..... instant part! The molten aluminum vaporizes the foam when you pour it in.

 

I made 16 gauge aluminum templates and then cut the foam with a hand held 6 inch hotwire with questionable success. I finally printed the layout on label paper, stuck it on the foam and just cut out the shape on the bandsaw. Overkill, maybe but it sure worked well.

 

I'll drop them off at the foundry over lunch tomorrow.

 

 

I Donno.

 

Yes the molton aluminum will vaporize the foam, but the vaporized foam, now a gas will interfere with the casting process. If it becomes incorporated into the casting, you will get a porous casting which will be weak.

 

your foundry will probably make a refractory mold of your parts (plaster-type material able to withstand high temperatures) and put the affair in an oven to burn out the styrene yielding a clean hot mold. Your styrene parts will be modified by putting sprues and vents, a way of getting the aluminum into the mold and releasing the air which occupies it before the metal is poured (or better yet centrifuged or pressure cast) into it.

 

Since this will be done by a foundry, I am not too worried about the above. What I am worried about is the tensile strength of the cast aluminum parts,

 

Using 2024 or 6061 hardened to some T- factor gives you an understanding of the strength of the material. Cast material of questionable material (unless you specify it) and no hardening (unless the foundry will do it for you) puts you in a situation of possible hurt.:(

 

Cutting these things out of aluminum sheet stock (3/4 - 1 1/4") is quite easy with a band saw, and smoothing easily done with a belt sander and a drum sander. Doing it this way, you will know what you have.

I Canardly contain myself!

Rich :D

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