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#21 Jeffrey Test

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Posted 29 June 2008 - 08:33 PM

G'day

Week four was spent sanding bondo and smoothing everything.... another 6 hours or so. No picutres of this week.

Jeff


G'day

I did get a couple of pictures. I have posted.....

Jeff

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#22 TMann

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Posted 29 June 2008 - 09:32 PM

Looking good Jeff. I'm just about to start on my spar. T Mann
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#23 Jeffrey Test

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Posted 04 July 2008 - 04:17 PM

G'day all and Happy July 4 I had a few hours away from the family today. I had to cut the grass at the hanger so I also did a little Chapter 14 layup (#7). I have attached the LWA3 and LWA2 parts with flox per plans and then put the three layers of 3" UNI glass and one layer of 5" BID at 45 degrees. See pictures below. Hope everybody has a safe and enjoyable 4th. I have to cook some Snags on the Barby. Jeff

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#24 Jeffrey Test

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Posted 01 November 2008 - 03:39 PM

G'day After three months moving hanger shops, I am building again. Last week I set up the canard and made some parts. I have posted a couple of pictures. Jeff

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#25 Jeffrey Test

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Posted 01 November 2008 - 03:50 PM

G'day Here is the carard set up and tabs microed to the foam. With any luck I will get the shear web layed up this weekend. Here is a pic. I used the Chapter 7 cutouts to put the weights on after cutting the foam for the bolts. Jeff

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#26 Jeffrey Test

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Posted 04 November 2008 - 04:24 AM

Looking good Jeff.
I'm just about to start on my spar.

T Mann


G'day TMann

Thanks, I am sorry for the slow reply. I have been moving hangers and setting up the shop. I missed this post until last weekend, but didn't have time to post and reply. I wanted the pics up for comments, but don't have any (Yet).

I lost my tech advisor due to a move. He moved out of town and I moved hangers....

I am now building in a vacuum, the feedback here is about all the outside help I get. If you see anything please post to me. I need the advise more than ever now.

Oh. how did your spar turn out? Mine is done and is around 54 lbs.

Thanks again.

Jeff

#27 Jeffrey Test

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Posted 04 November 2008 - 04:39 AM

G'day Here are some pictures of the spar that I finished back in Mid-July. It seems I didn't post them due to the hanger move... Sorry they are a little out of sequence. The spar is around 54 lbs. I used the plans layup with the extra glass.... I figured I could lose the extra weight myself and wanted the spar to be as strong as possible..... The SPAM CAN in the background is my 1956 Cessna. If you look behind the Cessna you will see my foam wings. Hope you enjoy. I welcome any comments. Jeff

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#28 Jeffrey Test

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Posted 04 November 2008 - 04:59 AM

G'day Here is the Shear Web layup on the Canard I completed on Sunday, but didn't get time to post. I marked 1/2" from the "Joggle" and put some Duct Tape to keep the epoxy from getting where it shouldn't. I didn't see this anywhere, but gravity seems to cause my epoxy to flow. I work by myself (most of the time) with limited assistance so I knew I would be busy just putting on the glass... It wasn't until after I finished this layup that I saw some advise to measure and trim all the Uni and Bid for the layup before wetting. I followed the plans, but wish I had trimmed before.... Oh well, live and learn..... If you look in the background you will see the old refrig that I use to keep my epoxy pump and epoxy warm when I am not building. I use a 25 Watt bulb and it keeps the space around 82 F. I tried a 40 W bulb and it was around 100 F. Your milage may be different.... Oh, I drilled the back and put the light in at the bottom in the back and then used insulation foam to seal the drill hole. I put all my chemicals in it and keep them warm. I don't need to run the room heaters during the week when I am in the office and not building. Hope you enjoy. I welcome constructive comments. Jeff

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#29 steve

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Posted 04 November 2008 - 10:54 AM

G'day

Here is the Shear Web layup on the Canard I completed on Sunday, but didn't get time to post.

I marked 1/2" from the "Joggle" and put some Duct Tape to keep the epoxy from getting where it shouldn't. I didn't see this anywhere, but gravity seems to cause my epoxy to flow. I work by myself (most of the time) with limited assistance so I knew I would be busy just putting on the glass...

It wasn't until after I finished this layup that I saw some advise to measure and trim all the Uni and Bid for the layup before wetting. I followed the plans, but wish I had trimmed before.... Oh well, live and learn.....

If you look in the background you will see the old refrig that I use to keep my epoxy pump and epoxy warm when I am not building. I use a 25 Watt bulb and it keeps the space around 82 F. I tried a 40 W bulb and it was around 100 F. Your milage may be different.... Oh, I drilled the back and put the light in at the bottom in the back and then used insulation foam to seal the drill hole. I put all my chemicals in it and keep them warm. I don't need to run the room heaters during the week when I am in the office and not building.

Hope you enjoy. I welcome constructive comments.

Jeff

did you cut the peel-ply to size?, and i over wet to remove the dry spots that get in the peel (it looks better when i remove it).
Steve M. Parkins

#30 Jeffrey Test

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Posted 04 November 2008 - 01:46 PM

G'day Steve Thanks for the reply, I used 4" Peel Ply on the top (front) and 2" Peel Ply on the sides. I then apply some epoxy to make sure it is wet all over. So I guess yes I do wet the Peel Ply. I have had good success with my method in the past. I removed the Duct tape today and only had to do some light trim with th dremmel. On the positive side the 1/2 inch above the joggle is very clean. It worked well. I also drilled the holes and mounted the tab. I hope to get some more work completed over the next weekend. Jeff

#31 Jeffrey Test

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Posted 13 November 2008 - 08:01 PM

G'day I am posting a couple of pictures of the bottom of the canard. I managed to get the nav antenna built and installed (sorry no pictures). I used two strips of copper foil cut 22.8" and then soldered some RG-400 (50 ohm) to the two strips. I installed the antenna on the lower left canard bottom. I used a female BNC (RG-58) connector and installed the connector to provide easy access and connect/disconnect for canard removal/maintenance. I used a crimp lug to connect the RG-400 shield and a large 2" shim washer to mount to the foam. I cut a channel for the cable and I used micro to cover the install. I then covered with Uni and BID per plans. The pictures still have the 4" peel ply on the lower skin. I welcome any constructive comments or questions. Thanks; Jeff

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#32 Jeffrey Test

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Posted 16 November 2008 - 06:29 PM

G'day Spent the day trimming the canard bottom and getting the top ready for the spar and skin. I have posted a couple of pictures of the canard top waiting the cutouts install and glassing.:cool: I hope next weekend to get the spar and skin on the top side of the canard. I welcome comments.:D Jeff

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#33 Jeffrey Test

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Posted 28 November 2008 - 06:49 PM

G'day Had a few hours over Thanksgiving day to get some work done on the canard top. I have attached a couple of pictures of the 1" foam and cutouts I make. I used 4 6"X10" 1/4" foam and micro them together and then put into a large ziplock bag. I then placed a 1/4" piece of plywood and weights on top and let cure overnight. I used a some scrap foam to make a template for the foam 8 plugs that are placed into the cutouts. I welcome constructive comments. Hope you had a great turkey day! Enjoy! Jeff

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#34 Jeffrey Test

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Posted 28 November 2008 - 06:57 PM

G'day Today is Black Friday 2008, I didn't do any shopping but did get the Glideslope antenna, foam cutouts, and canard top spar cap installed. I have attached some pictures of the antenna install. I made the copper foil dipole antenna and routed the RG400 cable in front of the canard shearweb. I also installed duct tape around the layup areas to protect the foam during the layup. I removed the tape after the layup was completed. I welcome constructive comments. Jeff

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#35 TMann

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Posted 28 November 2008 - 08:24 PM

Another day closer, Jeff. Looking good.
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#36 Jeffrey Test

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Posted 29 November 2008 - 05:58 AM

Another day closer, Jeff.
Looking good.


G'day TMann

Thanks! I didn't plan to get that much done. I usually over estimate what can be done. I have started a new policy not to start a layup after 3:00 PM. The other day I got back from the hanger at 7:00 PM for dinner because I started a layup after 3:30 PM. My wife was not impressed.

I use the time to prep for the next day or clean-up the work area. It seems there are an endless number of 45 minute jobs....

What has been your progress on the basement shop and the Main Spar?

I have so many parts in the hanger I will need to start sticking them together soon.

Thanks again;

Jeff

#37 Jeffrey Test

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Posted 29 November 2008 - 07:35 PM

G'day I want to thank my friend Bernie for his assistance with the upper skin of the canard layup. He got to mix epoxy and helped get the glass cloth on the foam. He was a big help. Thanks again, Bernie! I'm sorry the lunch wasn't that good maybe next time. Oh, we managed to get about 4 hours of work on the canard. We managed to install the two layers of UNI, one layer of BID, the last layer of UNI, and peel ply the canard. We then went for a plane flight for lunch. A GREAT day! I have attached two pictures of the canard as it sits curing in the hanger. I will do the finish work on Sunday. I welcome constructive comments or questions. Jeff

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#38 Jeffrey Test

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Posted 03 December 2008 - 08:16 AM

G'day

Here are some pictures of the spar that I finished back in Mid-July. It seems I didn't post them due to the hanger move...

Sorry they are a little out of sequence. The spar is around 54 lbs. I used the plans layup with the extra glass.... I figured I could lose the extra weight myself and wanted the spar to be as strong as possible.....

The SPAM CAN in the background is my 1956 Cessna. If you look behind the Cessna you will see my foam wings.

Hope you enjoy. I welcome any comments.

Jeff


G'day all

It was pointed out to me that in the first picture I have made a mistake. Please note the spar ends have the 2 1/4 " diameter holes cut in them called out in step 21 of chapter 14. Well after I reviewed the plans I see that these holes should be cut from the bottom of the spar at B.L. 53.5 (just like the Bloody plans instructs). I mounted and Sc#*%d the pooch on this one. Page 14-4 of the plans shows B.L. 53.5 between the aluminum inserts.

I plan to correct this bloody stupid mistake by glassing some extra foam and floxing into the spar endcaps. This should enclose the spar endcaps and I will then cut the 2 1/4" diameter holes in the bottom as instructed in step 12 of the plans.

I welcome any other ideas or opinions. It seems others have cut access holes in the endcaps (I have been told the Cozzzy girls did on their cozy to mount landing gear). Any ideas would be some help.

Thanks in advance for any constructive ideas.

Jeff

#39 TMann

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Posted 03 December 2008 - 09:29 AM

.....In retrospect........ If I was to build another CS Spar, I would go the extra 10% with the jig and make it a mold and do all of my layups from the outside in. Exterior dimensions would end up perfect. You could vacuum bag the works right up to closure. There would be no discrepancies with the thickness of the spar cap.......and on....and on
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4, 5, 6, 7, 8. 9, 10, 14, 19, 20 Done

#40 Jeffrey Test

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Posted 27 December 2008 - 07:22 PM

G'day Yesterday, I had a couple of hours to Alodine the Elevator Tubes. I went to the hardware store and purchased two 10' PVC electrical conduit tubes (cheaper than 4' plumbing PVC). Be sure to measure the inside diameter of one of the PVC tubes is about 1 1/2" diameter. The second 10' PVC tube should have an outside diameter of 1 1/4". Cut the PVC tubes into two 4' lengths. I PVC glued a PVC end cap on one end and cut the tube just over 4' long. Cut a second 4' tube and also PVC glue an encap on it. (See Picture) The second tube will be used to rinse. Prep the aluminum tubes by rubbing them inside and out with steel wool. Then using Dawn dish soap and water to wash the tubes. Rinse with distilled water. Dry the Aluminum elevator tubes. Empty the dish soap (I use this to clean my windows and aircraft windshild). Leave the Rinse (you will use it later) I put the 80" aluminum tube into the alodine and moved the aluminum up and down for about 3 minutes. (See picture) Rinse in the second tube and then treat the opposite side and rinse. Let dry. Repeat for the 64" tube. Drain the Alodine into a plastic container (a funnel is useful here). Drain the rinse out also. The second tube should have the outside diameter of 1 1/4". This will be the sanding tube. I saw this idea on a Cozy builder website. I modified it some. I mixed some 5 minute epoxy and glued some 50 grit sand paper to the outside of the second tube. I then placed the tube inside the other tube to hold for the epoxy dry. I then taped the edges with duct tape. I ran the tube inside the elevator foam cores to sand them so the aluminum tubes would fit. (see picture) Jeff

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